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QM t. o. question for California Kid or Artherd by Orville
Started on: 07-18-2002 06:30 PM
Replies: 25
Last post by: artherd on 09-13-2002 10:57 PM
Orville
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Report this Post07-18-2002 06:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post
What kind of radius faced throw out bearing do
you use with your quartermaster clutch?
I'm using a quartermaster clutch in a swap I'm
doing with a 4sp. I have everything resolved
except getting a t. o. bearing.

Orville

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Report this Post07-18-2002 07:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for California KidSend a Private Message to California KidDirect Link to This Post
Mine uses the stock '88 bearing, it only requires a very slight amount of metal removal, which I can't describe to you at this time, but my mechanics have never complained at all about the minor modication and it no charge. Having new disks put in within the next week, so I can ask them, as I always have a new bearing put in with each disk change.

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artherd
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Report this Post07-19-2002 12:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for artherdClick Here to visit artherd's HomePageSend a Private Message to artherdDirect Link to This Post
Tom and I are going about this different ways, he's pretty much using all stock Fiero parts (except for a minor mod to his 88 GETRAG T/O bearing) I'm using QM's hydraulic T/O bearing, which requires a new master cyl too.
(so I won't be much help, lol!)

I do know one thing, the T/O bearings for the 4-sp and the GETRAG *DO DIFFER*...

I'm not sure by how much however.

Tom will likely post pics of his T/O bearing soon (if nothing else, just keep the old one Tom, get to it later

Best!
Ben

------------------

Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

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Orville
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Report this Post07-19-2002 10:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post
Here is a photo of the qm/howe concentric internal slave cylinder I would like to use.
It's the only one I could find that has the
correct od at the base (< 2 5/16") and the
correct setup heigt (<2"). The problem is that
it comes only with a flat faced t. o. with an
id of 1 3/4" while the only radius faced bearings I can find have id's that are smaller.
If I can't find a t. o. I can adapt, I'll have
to go with an external slave and use California Kid's method of a modified 88 t. o.

Thanks for the reponse.

Orville

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Orville
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Report this Post07-19-2002 10:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post

Orville

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Also, Artherd, which qm t. o. are you using?
I wasn't able to find one I could use as such.

Orville

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California Kid
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Report this Post07-26-2002 07:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for California KidSend a Private Message to California KidDirect Link to This Post
Regarding the minor metal removal on the release bearing, all it is, is removing the two small stamped tabs on the shell, which is considered normal practice (according to the mechanic, as they are not required).
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artherd
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Report this Post07-26-2002 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for artherdClick Here to visit artherd's HomePageSend a Private Message to artherdDirect Link to This Post
Tom, please post pics! )

Say Orville, that looks like a great TO bearing! What's it's MC size requirement?

Perhaps we could 'radius' it's bearing ourselves?

You're right, it's a LOT closer than the QM!

Do you have a source for these?!

Best!
Ben.


 
quote
Originally posted by Orville:
Here is a photo of the qm/howe concentric internal slave cylinder I would like to use.
It's the only one I could find that has the
correct od at the base (< 2 5/16") and the
correct setup heigt (<2"). The problem is that
it comes only with a flat faced t. o. with an
id of 1 3/4" while the only radius faced bearings I can find have id's that are smaller.
If I can't find a t. o. I can adapt, I'll have
to go with an external slave and use California Kid's method of a modified 88 t. o.

Thanks for the reponse.

Orville

------------------

Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

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California Kid
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Report this Post07-26-2002 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for California KidSend a Private Message to California KidDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by artherd:
Tom, please post pics! )

Didn't have camera at the time, but there are two small ears about 1/8" by 1/8" on the back side of bearing stamped steel case. If it were to assembly correctly, which mechanic say most don't, the fork would pull the bearing back away from the clutch, but in reality the pressure plate diaphram is what pushes the bearing back anyway, so they are not required. Making sense????????? One or both can be removed.

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Report this Post07-26-2002 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Shaun41178Send a Private Message to Shaun41178Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by California Kid:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by artherd:
[b]Tom, please post pics! )

Didn't have camera at the time, but there are two small ears about 1/8" by 1/8" on the back side of bearing stamped steel case. If it were to assembly correctly, which mechanic say most don't, the fork would pull the bearing back away from the clutch, but in reality the pressure plate diaphram is what pushes the bearing back anyway, so they are not required. Making sense????????? One or both can be removed.

[/B][/QUOTE]

Shoot I read this now. I just put a new TO bearing in my getrag 5 spd today. I saw the ears. And made sure that they were positioned correctly on the forks. Man were they a b!tch to get lined up properly!!! Knowing that I could have trimmed them off I could have saved some time.

I thought that the diaphragm pushed the TO bearing back but I didnt' want to mess with anything cause I figured those GM guys knew what they were doing.

Oh yes can you guys please read my other post on the getrag shift forks here in the Tech? Thanks


Oh yea i have a digital cam that I can take some pics of my old TO bearing so you can see the tangs that Cali kid is talking about. Will take a few days though. Let me know if you want them.

[This message has been edited by Shaun41178 (edited 07-26-2002).]

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Orville
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Report this Post07-28-2002 06:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post
I found a bearing that was adaptable. It had a
1 5/8" id center that the machine shop ground
out to 1 3/4". Here's a photo. Note the bracket bolted to the lower fork bushing hole.

The slave cylinder is qm part # 7201000. The
bearing is tilton part # 63-003.

Ben, about the master cyl size, here are the
qm specs.

Will it work? I'll know more in a few weeks.

Orville

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Report this Post07-28-2002 07:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jstrickerSend a Private Message to jstrickerDirect Link to This Post
OK, how do you bleed it once the clutch is in? I've seen these before and always wondered about it but never had to work on one so didn't have any reason to find out.

John Stricker

 
quote
Originally posted by Orville:
I found a bearing that was adaptable. It had a
1 5/8" id center that the machine shop ground
out to 1 3/4". Here's a photo. Note the bracket bolted to the lower fork bushing hole.

The slave cylinder is qm part # 7201000. The
bearing is tilton part # 63-003.

Ben, about the master cyl size, here are the
qm specs.

Will it work? I'll know more in a few weeks.

Orville

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Report this Post07-28-2002 07:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for California KidSend a Private Message to California KidDirect Link to This Post
Here's a few pics of the GETRAG 5spd case and clutch release bearing (greased and ready to go in.

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Orville
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Report this Post07-28-2002 08:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post
John, The slave has 2 ports, one is fluid in
and the other is the bleeder, which is which
doesn't matter. To bleed just back out the
bleeder screw.

Tom, that bearing looks like it has a radius
face. Does it? It's the stock 88 bearing? If it
does and it is and has a large enough id it's
something Ben and I could use.

Orville

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Report this Post07-28-2002 11:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for California KidSend a Private Message to California KidDirect Link to This Post
It's a stock '88 Bearing for the 5spd Getrag, no modifications.

I don't really know what you mean about a radius face, it's machined flat except for 'face off' radius at the bearing ID, as you can see in photo.

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Orville
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Report this Post07-29-2002 10:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post
Tom, "radius" refers to the convex, arc shaped
face of the t. o. According to the techs at qm
and tilton, this shape is important to the
correct action of the qm clutches. But you've
been using a stock 88 t. o. successfully so
maybe it doesn't make much difference.

Here's a photo of a flat faced t. o. next to
the qm radius faced one.

Orville

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Report this Post07-29-2002 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for California KidSend a Private Message to California KidDirect Link to This Post
Thanks Orville, had a feeling that's what he meant, but I don't guess on Technical stuff. Flat bearing has worked fine with the QM setup, pressure plate fingers only show a very minor amount of wear just back from the tips, for 30,000 miles of use. I will replace the pressure plate next time it needs new clutch disks.

[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 07-29-2002).]

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artherd
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Report this Post08-08-2002 03:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for artherdClick Here to visit artherd's HomePageSend a Private Message to artherdDirect Link to This Post
Tom, this may be why you found it benneficial to 'shave' some off your titanium housing ring?

Looks good for 30kmiles, if I get 40k out of these pressure plates, I will be extactic.

Oraville, I think I'm going to use exactly that Tilton part, machined out. See what happens.

Best!
Ben,

------------------

Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

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Report this Post09-12-2002 10:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for artherdClick Here to visit artherd's HomePageSend a Private Message to artherdDirect Link to This Post
BUMP.

Looks like QM sent me the wrong bearing, it's much larger and different looking than the one in your pics Orville.

Can you check that part number for me? It looks like that's their "Race" TO bearing, but your scanned manual says it's the 'street' one (which I aparently have. not even close to fitting.)


Best!
Ben.

------------------

Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

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Report this Post09-13-2002 09:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tesmith66Send a Private Message to tesmith66Direct Link to This Post
Orville, I want to see some pics your starter setup.

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"Its a Fiero thing... Heck, even I don't understand!"

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Orville
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Report this Post09-13-2002 10:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post
Ben, The T. O. is Tilton part # 63-003. It's a
stock BMW bearing. It has an ID Of 1 5/8" which
can be ground out to the required 1 3/4". The
machine shop that did mine made a jig to hold it
in the lathe. Caution them to go slowly so as
not to overheat the bearing.

Orville

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Report this Post09-13-2002 10:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post

Orville

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tesmith66, here are a couple of pics of the
starter and drive extension shaft.

The starter on the combination starter/trans
mount bracket.

The adapter showiong the pinion gear extension
riding on a 12mm shaft/stud fastened to the
adapter.

Orville

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Report this Post09-13-2002 06:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for artherdClick Here to visit artherd's HomePageSend a Private Message to artherdDirect Link to This Post
Hey Orville, thanks for the reply. Oops, I screwed up my termoniology a bit!

THIS is what isn't quite right from QM:

 
quote

The slave cylinder is qm part # 7201000. The
bearing is tilton part # 63-003.

Orville

The actual QM TOB entirely is wrong (not what's shown in the pic at all, what I got was about 3 times that size :P, can you double-check that part number for me?)

I've also got to get them to redesign my billet button assy, they made it too tall.

Moving forward, slowly! )

Best!
Ben.


------------------

Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

[This message has been edited by artherd (edited 09-13-2002).]

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Orville
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Report this Post09-13-2002 09:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post
Ben, here's a link to site selling the Howe
slave, which is the same as mine, only cheaper. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=%2Fsection%2Easp%3Fd%3D14%26s%3D46
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Report this Post09-13-2002 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for artherdClick Here to visit artherd's HomePageSend a Private Message to artherdDirect Link to This Post
Thanks Oville!

Once I get this squared away, I'll post about the whole package for the GETRAG 5-speeds.

Best!
Ben

------------------

Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

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Orville
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Report this Post09-13-2002 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OrvilleSend a Private Message to OrvilleDirect Link to This Post
Ben, here's another link to a site with the
slave cylinder qm part # 720100. Guess I put in
an extra zero. http://stockcarproducts.com/clutch4.htm
This slave has a retracted height of about
1 3/4" from bottom of the cylinder to the foce
of the t. o. The correct distance from the
back of the trans to the face of the clutch
fingers (setup height) is about 2". That is,
about 1/4 clearance between retracted t. o.
bearing face and the clutch fingers.
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Report this Post09-13-2002 10:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for artherdClick Here to visit artherd's HomePageSend a Private Message to artherdDirect Link to This Post
I'll post a pic of the one QM sent me, it's huge, about 3" tall :P

You sure you don't have part# 710100? ;P

Best!
Ben.

------------------

Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

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