I have a 84Se that used to have vacumm operated cruise control.

I had a few issues with it ,finally got it to work. Then more issues came up, mainly a dying servo and a vacuum container that wouldn't hold a vacuum.

I finally said scr#w it!

i ripped out the old system and installed a "new" one.

The cruise unit out of a 92 chevy caprice.

This cruise control unit is a self-contained system.

I had to adapt a little bit of the wiring and run one new wire from the brake-switch.

The other main peice of surgery is where the original cable clipped in to a mount that was bolted to the intake manifold.

Thanks a lot to Fiero_Freak . He provided the wiring shcematic for the caprice.

If anybody else is interested in this "conversion" to get rid of the HORRIBLE Fiero cruise control, Let me know and I will post real instructions on what I did to install this CC unit. (I beleive that, with the right tools available it would take only a couple of hours to install this now.)

------------------
1984 SE - 30800 out of 136840. Being modified!

I was thinking that because this is a totally self-contained unit, it should make a good CC unit for those poor Fiero's that didn't come with CC at all.

It is actually pretty easy to wire up, all you really have to do (if you don't already have Cruise) is run 3-5 wires from the steering column area to the engine compartment.

I promise to have instructions and hopefully pics up on monday!

Rob

------------------
@#&%* It's DEAD again.
AIM-jaxpac257

Rob, you don't have to modify the column, you'd have to get a new turn signal stalk that has the cruise switch in it or maybe use or of those piggy-back switches that some of the aftermarket cruise systems use.

------------------
Jeff
AOL IM : Only2xsess

That's great that it worked. Since I'll be getting some parts for the wagon anyway maybe I'll try to find a few units.

I also think none stalk buttons could be pretty cool. A few none marked buttons on the side of the main pod. Might be a pretty neat idea.

------------------
87 GT Maroon w/ Silver Auto
87 Coupe Blue 5-speed
87 Coupe White Auto
86 SE Red w/ Black 3.2L w/ T-440
86 GT Gold 4-speed WrEcKeD (Should you be able to see the coolant tube and still be able to drive it?)

Rob

The stock system isn't that hard to diagnois and get working correctly, just time consuming. I've had to repair all the CC on the Fieros I've bought except about three. Good luck all!

Phil

------------------
GTDude
OVER 25 years GM experience

------------------
hoop
Red
'86 GT
5 speed
Borla Exhaust
Eibach's/Poly/Kyb's
*** Comming in 2003... 3.4l DOHC ***

but where do i find this unit over here???

hans

qwikgta: It should be fairly easy to mount a "non-stock" switch, all you need is a on/off switch with two momentary contact switches.

2xsess: that would be correct. you could use almost any GM vehicles switch. it would mount right where the current Turn-signal switch is located. All you would have to do is run the wires. No visible(nothing cut-up) mods!

Fiero_Freak: See qwikgta's message above . I am contemplating this myself. I am designing a one-off dashboard and am thinking about designing the switches right into the dash.

GTDude: I agree with you about the ease of diagnosis and repair. I was just tired of dealing with my system. (I have been through 2 servos, 1 vacumm can, and 3 of the servo release things (sorry, I can't remember exactly what it's called).
Plus, I wanted something that wasn't vacumm operated and I was looking for something to actually help out the rest of the Fiero community (mainly those that didn't already have Cruise). This unit is real easy to install!

bHooper: When mine worked, it worked GREAT!, but when it wigged out, it really went crazy!

86 gt fastback: I know next to nothing about what is available overseas. All I can tell you is that this particular Cruise Control unit was available on at least 91-95 GM vehicles like the chevy caprice, Buick Sedans and other assorted vehicles. Read the info in my next post and maybe that will help you find one. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

-Don

------------------
87GT 3.4 Turbo Best 0-60 5.2 seconds
http://turbofiero.fierojoe.com/turbo.htm

Thanks for all the info you can provide.

Tim

This is a whole lot easier than I will probably make it sound like. Don't worry, I will be posting schematics in the very near future to help explain my explanations .

In my 84 the Cruise Control unit is built in to the speedometer (don't ask me why, I think that it is a ridiculous design).

The Cruise Control switch that is also the Turn-signal / Wiper switch has a seperate lead coming off of it that leads down the inside of the steering coloumn.

This lead plugs into a plug that has four wires coming off of it. One of the wires is "hot when in run position" ie: when the vehicle is running. The other three lead to the CCunit in the speedometer.

There are 4 wires leading from the speedometer to the (old) CCunit in the engine compartment.

There is also one other wire leading from the brake switch to the (old) CCunit in the engine compartment.

I cut the 3 wires leading from the female plug on the CC Switch (these wires go into a wiring harness, so I was just barely able to have enough wire leading out of the plug to play with). I left the "hot" wire in place.

I also cut the 4 wires coming out of the speedometer (as close to the speedometer plug as possible) that lead the enginge compartment.

Three of the wires that I disconnected from the speedometer plug were then soldered to the three leads attached to the CC Switch.

***** At this time I have the CC Switch completely wired straight to the engine compartment and one "extra" wire leading from the speedometer area to the engine compartment.*****

Warning - DO NOT CUT THE SPEEDOMETER WIRE - You will lose your speedometer - LOL

The "extra" wire that runs to the engine compartment was tapped in to the yellow speedometer wire (from previously hooking up a Digital dash out of a 94 caprice - I know that this single wire will provide the 4000ppm that I need).

There is one wire that I had to run from the brake switch to the engine compartment.
*******************
Yes, I know what you are thinking, there already is a wire running from the brake switch to the (old) CCunit. Well the wire (purple) that was already there is hot all the time, except when braking (only when the car is running). The Caprice CC unit needs TWO brake wires, one that is hot all the time (except when braking) and one that is hot only when braking.
**********************
This brake wire that I had to run was attached to the brake switch wire that is hot only when braking.

At this time you should be done with the wiring under the Dashboard.

[This message has been edited by KlingonFiero (edited 12-31-2002).]

In the engine compartment you should have some wires coming out of the wiring harness (you may also have a ground wire or two).

The original plug(s) will need to be cut off.

Making sure that you have the right wires, hook up the 3 wires that run to the CC Switch.
Hook up the VSS wire.
Hook up the purple brake wire.
Hook up the other brake wire that you ran from the brake switch.

There are still two wires left to hook up on the Caprice's CCunit. One is a ground wire - should be easy enought to figure out.

The other wire is a 12v+ lead to the unit.
I didn't want to run another wire from the steering coloumn area. Since this lead should only be hot when the car is running, I didn't want to run a lead straight from the battery either.

I have an automatic, this means that I have a Park/nuetral safety switch, this switch also has the reverse lights hooked up to it.

I did some schematic perusing and discovered that the reverse lights are on a 20amp circuit by themselves. The wire that brings 12v+ to the switch is hot whenever the car is running.
I decided to tap into this wire right before the switch.

At this point all of the wiring should be done.

Please remember to be careful doing this, it is fairly easy to do but, you could potentially mess things up.

A couple of things about the Caprice Cruise Control unit.

It operates a little bit differently than the standard Fiero style.

1. you have to be going over 30mph. (I know the Caprice manual say's 25mph, but in reality...)

2. there is a small delay before the CCunit takes control. ie: If I am going 60mph and hit the cruise button, I will drop speed down to about 56-57mph and then the unit will take it back up to 60mph.
This may be due to the fact that the distance of travel for the cable is a little bit less on the Fiero than on the Caprice. If I understand it correctly there is an adjustment to be made, I will chekc it out and get back to you on this.

3. the "set" button must be pushed before the resume/accelerate button will work. Unlike the Fiero system that I could just hold the R/A button until I felt the CC kick in.

4. The "set" and "resume/accelerate" buttons will respectivly lower or raise your speed by 1mph per quick tap.

5. If you tap the "set" and "resume/accelerate" buttons at the same time, it will turn off your CC but will still keep a memory of the speed you were doing.
This does the same thing as tapping your brake, but you don't have to tap your brake ????

6. Both of the brake switch wires have to be installed properly, the Caprice's CC unit must see a "change of state" in voltage every Ignition cycle before the CC will work.
(this is a built in safety system to insure that the brake switches are working)

I can't think of anything else at this time, if anybody has any questions or problems, please fell free to e-mail me and maybe we could talk on th e phone. I can usually explain things a little bit better in person/on the phone.

I am trying very hard to get pics up as soon as I can. I will hopefully be getting a camera today and can take pic's tomorrow and should be able to post them on Thursday.
Sorry for the delay.

Good Luck!
-Don

------------------
1984 SE - 30800 out of 136840. Being modified!

[This message has been edited by KlingonFiero (edited 12-31-2002).]

I installed an aftermarket unit in my 85SE v-6 4spd. Inside the car you can't tell it's not OEM.

It was very easy to install. I got it from JC Whitney for around $130 US.

A bit more pricey than one out of a junker but if none are available this might be what you need.

Good luck,

Carroll

John

Thanks! I have to type this when my boss isn't looking. I tried to get it correct, but when you are trying to type as fast as possible.....

Cory

------------------
1987 Pontiac Fiero Coupe #18,838
3800 Series II SFI; 4T60-E Trans w/ 3.33 final drive; Terminator exhaust; 4 wheel vented disc conversion; Walbro 307 fuel pump; W-body air box w/ K&N filter; Rear 32mm sway bar; 134a functioning A/C; GM Pontiac CD player 7-band EQ w/ factory location sub; much more and...a stock GN's TURBO on the way!

Conversions Performed:

1985 SE 3800 Series 1 SC 4T60-E
1987 Coupe 3800 Series II 4T60-E
1987 SE 3.4 TDC 5-speed

http://dtcc.cz28.com

I am actually working on this myself. I am drawing up a single schematic that shows the wiring form both vehicles.
I should have it done by around lunchtime today.

CoryFiero: Yes, it is VERY important to get ALL of the wires hooked up properly!

Well,
the computer here at work is having fits. I have drawn a complete schematic twice now, only to have the computer eat it (it just disappears) and I can't get PIP to load on this thing.
I should be able to get the pics up tonite and the schematic up tomorrow night.
Sorry about the delays.

[This message has been edited by KlingonFiero (edited 01-02-2003).]

Here are some Pics!

The Caprice CCUnit as found in the Caprice.
The throttle cable runs behind the BrakeBooster:

The Cable mounting point as found in the Caprice, it is the largest of the three.:

Where I mounted the Caprice CCUnit in the Fiero, make sure to point the cable end the right direction!:

The Cable mount in the Fiero. You can kind of see where I used a Grinder to open it up. The Mounting setup I have so far is not perfect but it works. I will be hitting the junkyard soon to get a replacement mounting bar and I will just try to open the square hole up a bit. I will also have to thin the metal down just a little bit to let the mounting ears on the caprice cable pop out to hold it in place. :

This is a picture of the "C235" connector in the Fiero. This is the connector that leads up to the Fiero's Cruise control switch.:

This is a bad picture of the plug for the Fiero CCUnit (part of the speedometer). This is where I cut the wires that lead back to the engine compartment and then spliced them onto the wires that come out of the C235 connector and the VSS wire. :

[This message has been edited by KlingonFiero (edited 01-07-2003).]

I'm still trying to sort out some of the above info.

A few thoughts come to mind....

The best I can tell... the cruise appears to have little variation over Fiero model years. (The 87-88 DIS L4 cars being of special note. I'll get to those more in a sec.) Double check the wiring for your year. Getting just One wire wrong could be very bad.

You can get Weather Pack and other weatherproof connectors/splices at many parts stores. I strongly recomend them. that or solder the connections and cover them with weatherproof heat shrink. (It has a hot melt sealer inside it.) Intermitant/dirty connections in the vac cruise are one of its common problems. The solid state one isn't imune to that.

(If you mentioned this I missed it...) They make multicolored "rainbow" wire. It's a larger version of the "ribbon" wire used in your computer. You can get it at allot of places for hooking up stuff like trailer lighting. RadioShack has it as well. That would make the wiring go allot faster.

If you have 87 & up DIS L4, you already have the cruise logic is built into the ECM. In these it is just an issue of wiring the stalk, a brake switch, and the servo stuff. The plus here is that if/when you have problems, an ECM scanner will test about half the system. The only thing it won't test for you is the servo and dump valve.

------------------
11-Sept-01, The day the world as we knew it ended.

As with any project, please make sur eyou know what you are doing. NEVER trust anybody elses diagrams/schematics/instructions without verifying that they will work for you.

The above is what I did. I have been playing around with vehicle electrical systems for a long time. I am by no means a professional and do not meam to imply that I am. I am also willing to experiment on my car. That is why I did the install the way that I did.
Are the things that I could of done better?
YES! I know that now, but that is only because I experimented in the first place.

I am working on a much better schematic that will just show the completed installation. I plan on making it very simple (hopefully nowhere near as confusing as my previous stuff ) and easy to decipher.

TO theogre: I wholeheartedly agree with you. One wire wrong and you could fry something.

Definantly recommend soldering, I soldered all ofmy connections. I didn't have any heatshrink, so I just used a lot of electrical tape.

The "rainbow" wire seems like a very good Idea for a "new" installation. If you already have Cruise installed, and so things a "litttle" bit different from me, you shouldn't have to run much wire, if any at all.

To Darth Fiero: The scematic that you show is for a 95 Grand Prix. I am not sure how that one relates to my conversion. It seems to hook up a little bit differently than the one I used.
Also, I am not sure why you have some of the the "stock servo wires" hooked up directly to the Grand Prix's CCUnit.
If I misunderstood something, I apologize.