Are you tiered of waiting for a set of those cast aluminum cradle mounts that have not been made yet? or the ones that are going to be made in some ones basment on the lathe covered it dust?
I have plenty of eight peice sets of precision machined, garenteed to fit, 6061 T6 Bilit aluminum cradle mount sets in stock, ready to ship. They sell for $100.00 for the set, Shipping included. I don't want to rain on any ones parade, but why reinvent the wheel? Thanks,
Do these replace the stock Rubber bushings? If so why would you want a SOLID Bushings when the point of bushings are to give a little so things dont break??
Broke, and Still
------------------ 86 "PoSE" Needs every thing but 4 NEW Tires!!! They ride better when new, not like after they sit for 3 years! http://home.cfl.rr.com/fierose
[This message has been edited by Kento (edited 07-02-2003).]
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06:25 PM
FieroBUZZ Member
Posts: 3320 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Feb 2001
The solid bushings provide a solid mount for the cradle. This takes out some of the natural tendency to flex under stress. Also the rubber provides a softer ride quality, if you want that sort of thing.
Someone will be by to explain the technicalisms of the whole process.
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07:06 PM
coinball Member
Posts: 1526 From: Raleigh, NC, USA Registered: Apr 2002
darrell is the man, i have his aluminum cradle bushing and poly motor mount both work/fit/look great. morse is the only way to go
------------------ Eric '87 GT 5-speed Gold/Tan NOW with a 4.10 4-speed <- edit broke 4.10 back to 3.65 4-speed 3.1 TDC + other goodies F/S $900 (no ECU or harness) PM or email for more info....
SAVE THE SHAUN!!!
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07:40 PM
The Aura Member
Posts: 2290 From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Registered: Nov 2001
One of the improvements that GM engineers made to the 88 Fiero was to mount the engine cradle solid. This proved to eliminate any unwanted movement input from the cradle that could adversely affect the rear suspension geometry. This change was designed to improve the overall road feel (handling) of the Fiero. These solid aluminum mounts are probably not going to have as much of an affect on the 84-87 Fiero because of the more primitive suspension design, but it does help. In the case of an engine swap to increase horsepower, and / or modifications to the suspension such as lowering springs or performance shocks It will serve to stiffen up the space frame to help minimize flex and unwanted input to the rear suspension. Also, It won't really cause any more vibration unless you have poly engine and transmission mounts. This set uses the four small bushings for the front part of the cradle and the larger ones go on the rear of the cradle. I do supply a brief instruction sheet on how it goes together and also a diagram. Thanks,
I think I will still go for the dust covered lathe, just cuz I can say I made them. However, I would not take the step that Darrell has and sell them, way too much work. I will say that everything that I have seen that he produces is great!
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09:18 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jul 3rd, 2003
morse86@aol.com Member
Posts: 1103 From: Elk River, Mn. U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2000
Care to share the dimensions on those puppys... my dad has a lathe and could fab some up...
I know you're running a buisness so its probably a longshot getting these dimensions but worth a shot I guess...
All the best!
My wife keeps telling me that I do not run a Buisness, It is suppose to be a hobby to fund my Fiero projects, Hmmm.... Any ways, I did spend a fair amount of time to design the cradle mount set so I would have to say that giving up the drawings would be like giving out the secret family recipe! I realize you Canadians are well,, Frugal, so for that reason I am open to trades as well as cash for my parts and services Ie; "Will work for Fieros"!! Thanks,
...I realize you Canadians are well,, Frugal, so for that reason I am open to trades as well as cash for my parts and services Ie; "Will work for Fieros"!! Thanks,
Are the inner sleeves that are required with the rubbur and poly bushings required with these?
No, You only need to leave the outer sleeve that is pressed into the cradle. I have tried several different ways to remove the rubber part with the inner sleeve and I would have to say that a hole saw worked the fastest for me. You just have to find one that is fairly close to the ID of the steel bushing and saw in from both sides. An alternate method that also works fairly well is to use a drill bit that is real close in size to fit between the inner and outer steel sleeves and drill through the rubber and kind of walk the drill around the inside of the outer sleeve. I have also heard of very good results with heating the outer sleeve until the rubber starts to melt and then push them out while still hot. I have not tried this yet. My oxygen tank for my torch setup has been emty for a couple of years now, Not very high on the priority list I guess. Hope this helps,
