I read the How to on the main page. Just wondering If anyone has some tips. What kind of cloth have you used?

Thanks

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1984 SE - All Options - 97939 of 136,840
E-Mail: DeLorean247@aol.com
AIM: MacManMichael/DeLorean247

There are a few posts on this somewhere.

1-The material is available at the upholstery store, it is foam backed. 2-DO NOT use spray can adhesive, it works great for a month or so, it is harder to redo it the second time. Use contact adhesive like you use for counter tops. 3-Do not flex the board, it will crack. If it is cracked reinforce the crack with a piece of cloth glued across the crack. 4-If it is a sunroof do not cut the hole till it is in. TRIM IT LONG! it always seems that you will cut it to short, even though you thought that it had extra.

Good luck, not that hard to do really.

deff second 'NO SPRAY CAN GLUE' . Much better if you have access to use a spray gun with contact cement. Just pour it straight into cup. it will spray out in little splats and strings. Cover both the panel and the cloth back, but dont soak it down. let it dry a few minutes then get someone to help you hold it up before you let it touch. Once it makes contact its on there for good. Try some material on something scrap for practice.

I will put a third note to avoid the spray can glue (cough! 3M Super 77). It will not do what it says it will. Do a search for threads on the subject to get more advice. It is not difficult.

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Dwayne Mohr
84 SC Red
87 GT 5sp Silver
(Formerly FieroSoul, member since 2001)

More thoughts.

1-Reinforce it on the back side if you are fixing a crack. 2-The trim clips that break to the front pillars are still available from GM. 3-To remove the old residue, rub it with a stiff bristle brush, like a straw wisk broom.

I recovered mine in Vinyl.... I used Contact cement that said it was designed for use with both vinyl and fiberglass (what my backing was made of). Also, get a bunch of clamps and flat pieces of wood... they help for securing the extra to the back.

If you do use something like Vinyl, that has no padding... not all the top pieces will fit perfectly and may require modification. Here is what Mine looks like:

hope that helps

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"Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance."
--Sam Brown

[This message has been edited by Pyric (edited 12-14-2003).]

If you do want to use vinyl, a way to help with the lumps and wrinkles is to glue in a thin layer of foam, sort of creating a padding similar to the factory. It will give it a "softer" look.

this is probably the most recent thread...
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/042788.html

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'84 2m4 se, a work in progress http://www.mtsu.edu/~mkr2c/fiero.htm

I've done quite a few headliner replacements and it's about a 3-4 hour job. I use only 3M Super trim adhesive in spray cans and it seems to hold up fine. Other brands and the regular 3M trim adhesives don't seem to hold up at all. Contact cement is probably better but if you don't spray it on, you may end up with lumps that show through. Items which must be removed include the sun visors, overhead light console, coat hooks, seat belt retaining bolt, third brake light, rear trim panel, sun roof rubber trim, and over door panels.
After everything is removed, support and lower the headliner down carefully, as that light density fiberglas backing breaks easily. Temperature extremes and age take their toll on these. After you carefully pull off the old headliner material, lot's of the old ratty foam rubber remains on the backing. ALL of this old deteriorating foam rubber MUST be removed so that the new headliner material will adhere properly and look nice. I use a soft wire brush to gently rub off and clean it. In some instances the headliner board can split, rip or even an edge can break off. I usually repair small breaks using the super trim adhesive and a piece of duct tape over the rip on the top side. I would not advise repairing large damage as it's hard to get the repair to look right.
In addition to the tips above, there is one critical tip that I've found needs to be followed. To remove the headliner, you'll need to pop a few holding clips to remove the trim. However, if you try removing this old and heat weathered plastic trim on a cold day; chances are that you will break the holding tabs off. This is why I only replace headliners in the summer months where I can work in the sun. The trim won't be as brittle in a hot environment and this gives you a margin against potential breakage.

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87GT 3.4 Turbo Best 0-60 5.2 seconds
http://www.turbochargerpower.com/turbo.htm