Ok, I have been reading a lot on cams here. From all the info, I think I found that these below are the biggest non-custom cams out there. Is that correct? I don't have to care about emissions but the cam will need to work with the ECM. I can get a re-burn on my Westers chip for it. Right now the best HP I got from my 3.4 was 142 RWHP. Engine has ported TBS and intake (not heads) and headers plus many things more. The 3.4 has the stock Camaro cam and I'm looking into opening it to put a better cam and roller tip rockers. What would be the differences on these cams and which one would you recommend and why? Would it be worthwhile to do it? TIA

I- Crane H-272-2 :

Lift: Intake @Cam 3027 @Valve 454 * All Lifts are based on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 3200 @Valve 480
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.004
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake 25 BTDC 67 ABDC 272 °
Exhaust 75 BBDC 29 ATDC 284 °

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 1 BTDC 35 ABDC 107 216 °
Exhaust 51 BBDC (3) BTDC 117 228 °

Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 2000
Maximum RPM 5000
Valve Float 6500

II- Crower 03050 / 290HDP

Lift: Intake @Valve 470
Exhaust @Valve 492
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5

Cam Timing:
Lift: ADV Duration
Intake 290 °
Exhaust 298 °

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Max Lift Duration
Intake 226 °
Exhaust 234 °

Lobe Center 108°

RPM Power Range: 2200 to 6200 / Redline: 6500 plus

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Palm Beach Fieros
http://pbfieros.tripod.com

This is a tough question. We know that the 272 works from that article and a couple who have used it but will that second cam work is the question. I know there was a few guys who used the Fierostores 280 lift cam without incident (280 both intake and exhaust) although they did report a choppy idle. You'd even be going beyond that. I really hate to be conservative but, in this case, i'd go with the 272. You already know from the article i posted about how much power to expect from it and 15 HP is a good gain from a cam so i'd go with the 272 if i were you. At least going in you'll know the thing will run and about how much power to expect from it. The other one you're going out on a limb with. Probably be okay from what i've seen but i'd rather be sure then not sure if it were my engine.
Remember, that 272 probably wouldn't be as friendly behind an automatic trans as a manual.

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Activities Director N.I.F.E.

I am selling my 272h and buying the Crower 3050.

My guess about the 3050 (judging by the duration and the suggested RPM range) is that this is a lumpy idling cam with an emphasis on power above ~3500 rpm.

I am running a 3.4 V6 5speed no AC and no accessories. I have a holley 390 and an Edelbrock intake that I have opened up significantly. I have ported the heads to the extreme. I will use the DOHC pistons and some 1.5" headers with no cat. I am prepared for a lumpy idle and probably the addition of a Vac accumulator for the brakes.

I do not depend on the Fiero for transportation. I will not be forced to use it as a commuter. I WANT MY 13.5S 1/4 mi.!

I have come to believe after much discussion that for a daily used Fiero the 272H is about as hot as one should go. The Crower 3050 is probably lame when hooked to an automatic or to a car with AC and misc accessories.

I have toured the local machine shops and have found a small one that will allow me to participate in the process. I will know about the Crower cam within 2-3 months.

Well talk about timing, I just received an Email from a guy here at work who had his car tuned on a dyno this past weekend.
To give you some basic history, He bought his 3.4L block the same time I did. He chose to keep it F/I because of the driveability. (He uses it as his daily driver) We spent a lot of time running many configurations thru desktop dyno and such to get into the 180's for horsepower.
Well he put the engine together and ran it for a few weeks. He had some problems with running too rich and stumbling around 2500rpm under hard accelleration.
According to his Email, The initial run on the dyno was 132rwhp to the tires. After spending all day tuning it and trying different PROMS, He now has 167rwhp! That gives him about 196hp at the flywheel. Which isn't bad considering we were geussing about 180's with the desktop dyno.
His engine is a 3.4L with:
Darrell Morses bored/ported intake,(all sections)
Accel 19# pintle style injectors,
Holley adjustable fuel pressure regulator,
Sprint manifolds with a Borla exhaust (no cat),
Heads were ported/polished,
MAP sensor from a 91 Camaro V-8,
Comp Cams 1.52 roller tipped rocker and heavy duty pushrods
Double roller timing chain
and he's using the H272 cam.
He said the thing that was hardest to get set correctly was the timing advance curve. He spent almost $600 to get it all dialed in.

I will have the dyno plots to scan in for him when he returns in 2 weeks (he's going up north for snowmobiling)

Now all he has to do is put his interior back together and the bodywork! (come on Rich it's been 3 years since we put the stereo in, You can put the interior back in now )

As for which cam, I would say the H272, The more lump at idle the harder it will be on the F/I system.
Also like Dave states it depends on what trans your using. The car above is an 86 SE with a Getrag 5-spd. (it had the 4-spd originally but it died so he went with the 5-spd) It will be interesting to see how it does when we get rid of all this snow.

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Happiness isn't around the corner...
Happiness IS the corner.

Thanks all for the well informed opinions I forgot to mention that my car is a 5 speed. 167RWHP is a great acomplishment. I may have all his mods except the ported heads. I wonder how much HP that may add to his total. Why he needed a V8 MAP? Now the key item is the tunning. $600 on it is a lot of money. I have another question. Would that cam work ok if I add a turbo kit later? Or would it be better to change the cam for the turbo friendly? Also I guess that cam would work ok if at the end I ditch the FI and go carbed, yes? Tks.

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: Thanks all for the well informed opinions I forgot to mention that my car is a 5 speed. 167RWHP is a great acomplishment. I may have all his mods except the ported heads. I wonder how much HP that may add to his total. Why he needed a V8 MAP? Now the key item is the tunning. $600 on it is a lot of money. I have another question. Would that cam work ok if I add a turbo kit later? Or would it be better to change the cam for the turbo friendly? Also I guess that cam would work ok if at the end I ditch the FI and go carbed, yes? Tks.

He's using the V-8 map because it is able to read lower vacuum levels better than the V-6 one. It prevents the 'hunting idle".
The $600 was the cost of using the dyno. It's $250 for the initial run and $75 per hour for tuning. I don't know anyone using the cam and running a turbo, But I don't see a problem with it. The stock heads will flow enough to support about 175hp. This is based on stock flow rates. Ported the cast heads can support 230hp.

Mmmm... Porting porting porting.... Anyone knows who ports these 2.8/3.4 heads? Does Darrel does it? I guess it is not very useful to go to that cam without working the heads. Anyone agrees?

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: Mmmm... Porting porting porting.... Anyone knows who ports these 2.8/3.4 heads? Does Darrel does it? I guess it is not very useful to go to that cam without working the heads. Anyone agrees?

You need to check local performance shops. That is where I had mine done. The larger the lift the more air it CAN flow provided the flow to the valves is more, porting the heads increases flow so your gains are larger.

I've discussed porting the heads with Darrell and he told me he can do it. Oreif got a real nice deal on porting heads at a machine shop close to him that he told me about as an alternative too.
I agree that porting the heads is a good idea to get the most power especially on the 3.4. Porting the heads on a 2.8 nets nice gains so it stands to reason that a bigger engine is even more in need of more flow.
It's unlikely the cam would interfere with a turbo. An adjustable fuel regulator is a must have item and if you're going to go with a turbo on top of all this then i would get a custom chip done as well.

Cool. Thanks again. I need to decide what to do. I have a clutch job to do soon so I can take the opportunity to just drop the engine and do the whole thing at the same time. A cam and required hardware for it is not too expensive but I will need to check first the port job. Here in Palm Beach everything related to cars is expensive. I may need to check down in Miami. Will see...

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: Cool. Thanks again. I need to decide what to do. I have a clutch job to do soon so I can take the opportunity to just drop the engine and do the whole thing at the same time. A cam and required hardware for it is not too expensive but I will need to check first the port job. Here in Palm Beach everything related to cars is expensive. I may need to check down in Miami. Will see...

A good place to start with is the local hot rod clubs, They usually have a machine shop that does great work for a decent price.