After some research into the most cost effective and reliable combination for feeding my 40+psi to my carb at 6 psi, I found that Mallory has a racing regulator rated to 60 psi and Russell has a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that work.

I have done an initial plumbing job, but will likely change a couple of things. I am sticking with barb and clamp connections for experimentation.

Notice the vacuum nipple on the regulator. This allows guys with boost to get more gas when they need it.

It just seems to me that having the volume continually available in circuit, feeding a bypass of much less volume, will give a pretty good reserve for accelleration, and be easier on the fuel pump than the standard fuel regulator.

The fuel filter will go pre-regulator and be mounted with a nice chrome bracket on the fire wall. (No more crawling under to change it.)

I'll put a glass filter on the 6 psi line so I can monitor when I need new filters.

I hope this helps somebody save some aggrevation and bucks.

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Arn Brown, 1985 Fiero GT, 15.474 ET stock
Mods underway.

Just put in the 4 cyl pump and save youre self the agravation. no regulator needed with the 4 cyl pump. If you plan on taking youre car to the strip glass filters are illegal. They wont let you run. Also I dont think you can safely hold back 40+ psi with worm clamps. Just put in the 4 cyl pump and you will be fine.

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85 GT 4 speed 2.8L auto X'er

[This message has been edited by red85gt (edited 02-12-2004).]

Just FYI, you do need a regulator for the 4 cyl fuel pump. I'm running a reg. the same as Arn's on my carbed Duke. Unregulated, the 4-cyl. fuel pump puts out about 14-15 psi, a bit too much for carbed applications where 5-6 psi is optimum.

quote Originally posted by red85gt: They wont let you run. Also I dont think you can safely hold back 40+ psi with worm clamps. Just put in the 4 cyl pump and you will be fine.

Have you checked your fuel hose connections at your fuel filter and at the tank?

The steel line connectors feeding your fuel block on the engine can fool you. Look underneath and you will see how GM attached the rubber hoses for their 45 psi.

Arn

How much did you pay for your regulator, if you don't mind me asking? I paid $120 for mine from a local speed shop. My setup is very similar to yours. I mounted a liquid-filled gauge off of a 3/8" NPT to -6AN male adapter fitting. The regulator is mounted on the rear bulkead, and is fed by the stock fuel lines up to that point (just rebent a little). Then there's a -6AN line running to the carb.

Are you using the Edelbrock carb intake on the 2.8?

Here's what I did:

Since I already had the regulator and some fittings, it only cost about $20. I use the needle valve to dial in the initial pressure, then the regulator to set it at 6-7 PSI. Works great, and a heck of a lot easier than dropping the tank to put in a new pump (which would have cost over 3 times as much)

The Mallory racing regulator is at Jegs

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1472&prmenbr=361 for $75

The liquid filled Russell guage I got for $43 Canadian (about $32 US) . I don't know about an American supplier.

The schematic is really nice and well thought out. The only reservation I have on the design is the in line regulator. Single step down needs a pretty solid regulator to prevent creep. I think the bypass adjustable type is superior. But that is just my take on it.

Arn

I use the 4 cyl pump and just put a jet in a T fitting and drilled the jet till I relieved the return line to 7lbs on the line coming off to the carb. I put a see through filter in front of it all and ain't had any fuel problems. I know its not a true regulator but it sure works. I had the fittings laying around the shop at the time I done it. I have less than $20 in the whole thing if it were bought.

I done this after I burst the hose inside the tank from the pump to the line out of the tank. I was using a static inline regulator at the time and I just figured it was hard sith no pressure relief. I also figured the fuel pump would last longer if it didn't have to hold as much pressure as it was originally set up for.

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: Here's what I did: Since I already had the regulator and some fittings, it only cost about $20. I use the needle valve to dial in the initial pressure, then the regulator to set it at 6-7 PSI. Works great, and a heck of a lot easier than dropping the tank to put in a new pump (which would have cost over 3 times as much)

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I like the tesmith66 idea. Use a needle valve to bleed off the excess pressure. This may be coincidental but with the filter in that position your constantly filtering the fuel supply which is good.

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