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4. caddy alternator rebuild by jeffndebrus
Started on: 01-26-2005 06:30 PM
Replies: 14
Last post by: jeffndebrus on 01-31-2005 11:28 PM
jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-26-2005 06:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
So far- I have removed the nut from inside the pulley
removed the pulley using a gear puller
removed the long screws that hold the case together
had to use the gear puller again-to separate the halves of the case
pulled the stator out of the unit
But now I cannot get the bearing off the end of the stator---it is obviously pressed on but the ends on my gear puller are too large to get underneath the bearing-----I tried two large scredrivers prying together but it doesn't budge.
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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-26-2005 06:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
My other question is;
how does all this get pressed back together>?

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Proud Member of the DOWN SOUTH SUNNY WINTER drive your Fiero Naked Coalition.

85 4.9SE 4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- No I do not want to race!

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collinwestphal
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Report this Post01-26-2005 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for collinwestphalSend a Private Message to collinwestphalDirect Link to This Post
you just gotta do it the hard way huh? I would have gone to the junkyard for another, or gotten a new one. Why all the extra work? What was wrong with yours?
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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-26-2005 08:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
Well, I was rather curious because everyone seems afraid to crack one open. I had an extra one here that charges but has a bad recitfier--read that--does not send exiter signal to the idiot light.
So, I decided to practice on it before pulling the one in my car apart.
The one in my car I believe has a bad bearing in it because it squeals like a pig. Now I have been going back n forth on whether it is the belt-or the alternator but along with squealing the alternator also gets very hot when running-----SOOOOooooooo

I bought a new bearing--went to practicing on the extra and belive I may rebuild my runner later tonight. I have an appoinment in the morning however, to get the windshield replaced and I don't want to jeprodize that by messing up tonight.

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Proud Member of the DOWN SOUTH SUNNY WINTER drive your Fiero Naked Coalition.

85 4.9SE 4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- No I do not want to race!

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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-26-2005 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post

jeffndebrus

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Member since Aug 2001
Update;
I just got back from Advanced Discount auto parts where I purchased a gear puller with slimmer hooks on it to grasp the bearing-----upon attatching it and placing my electric impact wrench on it-----promptly sheared the head off the gear puller without removing the bearing!!! @#^%(*&%#$^

so close yet soo far away. Guess I'll have to spend $130 on a new alternator just to find out if it's the bearing or the belt or one of my other pullies! @#$&^_(*&^

And y'all call this fun????
See you in Daytona----even if I have to tow this thing there.

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Proud Member of the DOWN SOUTH SUNNY WINTER drive your Fiero Naked Coalition.

85 4.9SE 4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- No I do not want to race!

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jstricker
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Report this Post01-26-2005 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jstrickerSend a Private Message to jstrickerDirect Link to This Post
The bearing shouldn't be stuck on the shaft that hard. Normally, if you have a bearing splitter (kind of a split C) you can just put it under the bearing and tap on the shaft.

You shouldn't have had to use a puller to get the halves apart. I normally leave the nut on until I have the case split. That way the armature comes with the one half of the case and the stator stays with the other. Then I take the nut off with an impact wrench and a few taps on the shaft with a brass mallet or brass punch and hammer normally taps the armature shaft out of the front bearing.

The bearings in the front end are either just pressed into the housing, have a plate with three screws retaining it, or are pressed and then staked in with a centerpunch. Sometimes, the ones that are staked especially, can come out pretty hard. The bearings in the back end are pressed in with no other retainer.

If you take the regulator, rectifier, stator, and diode trio out of the case, be VERY CAREFUL or which screw goes where. Some are insulated, some are not. Put the wrong one in the wrong hole and you just popped a regulator.

I suspect with how hard yours came apart, you have bearing problems or maybe even a bent shaft (but probably just bearings). They just don't normally come apart that hard.

John Stricker

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Dragon1
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Report this Post01-26-2005 09:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dragon1Send a Private Message to Dragon1Direct Link to This Post
So if you have two alternators, one with a bad bearing(front half) and one with a bad rectifier(back half) why don't you just put the good front half together with the good back half and have one good alternator and one bad alternator???
Put the good alternator back on the motor.....

Dragon1/Brian

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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-26-2005 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
Ok===now I used a torch on the bearing along with what's left of the gear puller and it still won't come off. This really bites!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did I mention that this really bites??? !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've used an impact wrench---gear puller and a torch and this bearing will not budge----now I am going to take it and destroy it with a sledge hammer because it is not going to beat me. HUAW! guess I'll have to shell out the money for a new one.

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edhering
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Report this Post01-26-2005 11:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edheringClick Here to visit edhering's HomePageSend a Private Message to edheringDirect Link to This Post
LOL

Yeah, that's the way: COOPERATE, OR I WILL DESTROY YOU!!! I must look like a complete lunatic when I'm yelling that at something that is defying me, but the threat usually works.

And when you are forced to destroy it, well...if it was that stubborn, it was probably not re-usable anyway.

Ed

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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-27-2005 08:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
If it's stuck-Force it. If it breaks then it needed replaced anyway.
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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-27-2005 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post

jeffndebrus

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Well, wish me luck--I'm going to rip apart the one that's in the car because I simply cannot continue to drive this car with this hideous screaming coming from the engine bay!!
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paulcal
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Report this Post01-27-2005 10:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for paulcalSend a Private Message to paulcalDirect Link to This Post
Calm blue ocean Jeff, Calm blue ocean. If all else fails, take out your frustration with a hammer on the old one.
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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-30-2005 02:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
Update;
a new serpentine belt $30 fixed the hideous squeal----for about 12hrs until it shredded the belt--DON!
I can only guess from looking at it that when I installed it in the dark---and it was very very tight 795k6 on my 4.9 set up
that I may have not gotten the crankshaft pulley covered completely with the belt. If even 1/2 a rib is over the edge it will destroy the belt. So, I am happy that the squeal can be fixed but not sure if I should replace it with another 795k6 or look for a 80" belt?
The original one we had used was a 79.5" and it wound up being a screamer------------I replaced it with a new 79.5" belt and----it was awfully tight---even with the tensioner all the way back---it was very hard to get the belt on.--possibly leading to me not getting it fully seated on that bottom pulley-----
Hmmmmmmm????????????????????

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Proud Member of the DOWN SOUTH SUNNY WINTER drive your Fiero Naked Coalition.

85 4.9SE 4T60E Parks harness/ Rockcrawl chip-- No I do not want to race!

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theogre
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Report this Post01-30-2005 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
If you are eating serpent belts one or more of a small number of things is wrong. All of which are covered in the Serpent Belt article in my cave.

I know some engine conversions require changing pulley config of the engine. You may need a longer or shorter belt than original if any pulleys changed size. Even a small pulley size change can require a different belt. Look for the markings on your tensioner described in my cave. If the tensioner is out of range then you need to get the right belt installed.

A bad or overloaded alt certainly won't help. Usually when a bearing is bad you can feel and/or hear it even with the belt off and turning it by hand.

Alternators get hot in normal operation so that isn't always meaningful. The regulator alone generates considerable heat.

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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-31-2005 11:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

If you are eating serpent belts one or more of a small number of things is wrong.

You have an eating disorder called serpentineating syndrome. You probably also have many marks about your head and face from trying to catch the moving belt in your teeth.

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