Ok I am after some pics to see if I will tackle making this mount myself from the original Fiero alt mount and the 3800sc mount. I cant seem to find anything with the search engine. Ever.

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The only pic I have of mine readily available is this:

I know, I know...The twine was used to measure the belts.

I reused the AC bracket by drilling a new mount hole, and fabbed a support bracket for the back.

There are lots of pictures on my projects page with low mounts....

http://www.fastfieros.com/projects

This is Matt Jackson's which I call my version 1

This is the one I put on my 3800SC Series III which I call my version 2

Note that keeping the AC is a must for me and most people...

Loyde

[This message has been edited by FastFieros (edited 02-24-2005).]

Jim, I have several pictures on my home PC which I will send you tonight. I have shots of both sides of the alternator mount. Not as crafty as the 2nd dog bone pics I sent ya, but the bracket should be easy to figure out. One end of the alternator is bolted directly to the cylinder head, it is the end of the alternator that has the long bolt passing through the housing. This end of the alternator ends up being the top. Rick and I posted pics of it on the 3800 mailing list almost 2 years ago, looks like that mount has become popular too.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 02-24-2005).]

quote Originally posted by FastFieros: There are lots of pictures on my projects page with low mounts.... http://www.fastfieros.com/projects This is Matt Jackson's which I call my version 1 This is the one I put on my 3800SC Series III which I call my version 2 Note that keeping the AC is a must for me and most people... Loyde

Wow! Great minds really must think alike. Those configurations look a lot like Skitime's:

Maybe its just me but does it look like Skitime's SC belt drive is wrong? The spring tensioner is on the tension side and wont work well there? The crank pully will pull all the tension out of the tensioer and and all the slack would "derail" at the SC pull. It should be on the slack or non tension side like FF?

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[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 02-24-2005).]

quote Originally posted by Denny: Wow! Great minds really must think alike. Those configurations look a lot like Skitime's:

Me and "SkiTime" (David) have already had this conversion and mutually agree that great minds can think alike. I respect the work he puts into his projects, just as I respect Archies work that he puts into the V8's.

Loyde

Thanks Guys. That helps a lot. More detailed ones would be gret Jel. now to polish up my alloy welding skills a bit first. Also I notice the oil filter mount everyone has is different to mine. What's the part number on that one to move it to that spot?

quote Originally posted by Rickady88GT: Maybe its just me but does it look like Skitime's SC belt drive is wrong? The spring tensioner is on the tension side and wont work well there? The crank pully will pull all the tension out of the tensioer and and all the slack would "derail" at the SC pull. It should be on the slack or non tension side like FF?

That's an old pic from when he initially mocked it up. I'm quite certain the drive belt layout was changed, but skitime can confirm this if he wants.

Here is a pic of mine on an L36 (will also work with a L67)

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power corrupts. absolute power corrupts absolutely.

Custom Computer Tuning | Engine Conversions | Turbocharging | www.gmtuners.com

jelly u have a pm....

about skitimes belt routing with the tensioner on that side,
mine is on that side too. i was having some problems a while back that ended up being too much muffler, but it acted just like slipping belt. i suspected the tensioner (i had just put one size smaller than stock pulley on), so i started experimenting to find out. first i put contact cement on the belt. then i switched the tensioner to a solid mounted one. i would pry a lot of tension and bolt it down solid. these made NO difference (i was charting boost and other stuff on my tech2). once i finally uncorked the exaust, i had a huge smile on my face. more interesting is when i found out that the bolt on tensioner had worked loose, and there was lots of play in the belt - while i was making the most boost yet! im going back to the spring loaded one and am very satisfied it works perfectly.

JUST A WORK IN PROGRESS
THANKS TO LLOYD

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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

quote Originally posted by ohio86se: JUST A WORK IN PROGRESS THANKS TO LLOYD

hey, ohio86se, can you tell us what that tensioner came off of, or part number? thanks, looks like i am in the same boat as you with that style alt. its 140 amps! dont need anything anywhere near that big, but its what ive got.

(edit: lloyd, also, what tensioner is that you have in your stage II lowmount? the bolt on one in the dogbone mount? thanks!)

everyone seems to have the alt in aproximatley the same spot. is there room there without "adjusting" the trunk? i was going to go lower to avoid that, but the long driveshaft on my 5spd needs room to move up and down too. ?

edit: found this photo on fastfieros site (very good)

looks pretty tight, but it works?! is that cut out?
and this:

[This message has been edited by ricreatr (edited 04-11-2005).]

Mine is like RCR's

Hey loyde, that ver 1 of yours does not wrap around the blower very well...... Scratch that ....Looking at the wrong pulley

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88 GT, 3800SC, Getrag 5sp., fastest one in Austin,Texas and surrounding areas.........so far

[This message has been edited by revin (edited 04-11-2005).]

quote Originally posted by revin: Hey loyde, that ver 1 of yours does not wrap around the blower very well......

Looks alright to me... About 270º or so...

Aus, here is a topside view of Loyde's Version1

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I started to draw some belt setups based on RCR's pic....I plan to put the alternator in that location also...

..then I realized I have the real toys to play with too..lol..
These are some pieces I took off the engine already...all those idler/tensioner pullies...Wouldnt you want a short and clean belt setup?

1. boat anchor iron bracket, one ribbed idler pully and one tensioner pully (5)
2. idler pully
3. alternator (need that one)
4. heater lines extention bracket, tensioner pully...(I plan to plumb the lines directly to the WP and intake.)
5. tensioner pully
6. dogbone/engine bracket
Little mockup for a shorter belt setup.....

..used the available parts, wont work effectively this way but it challenges to find better solutions...hopefully. ..(btw '2' needs changing to a ribbed pully in this setup... )

ahh, i think fie ro has answered my question, the #5 tensioner is off of a w body sc3800? going to have to get me one.

fie ro, #2 could be a tensioner too (like another #5). to avoid setting tension with the alternator. i hate that. i ran into interference with the super belt hitting the w/p pulley when routed over it, so i doubled up the w/p pulley. made it very short and sweet. there is a tensioner missing on the super belt

i am going to try to switch to the low mount. hmm . . . cant remember why. oh yeah, to get rid of those pesty water tubes!

[This message has been edited by ricreatr (edited 04-11-2005).]

the price tag on the gtp super tensioner (part #5 in fie ro's above illistration) is about $50 with my dealer discount! OUCH.
anybody know a better part to use?

[This message has been edited by ricreatr (edited 04-26-2005).]

Here's my "I did it myself" belt routing. (kept the AC) I figure I have the most possible belt wrap ever designed on the SC pulley... LOL The tensioner I have just before the SC pulley may be similar to the GP stock one.. I basically went through all the ones they had at Autozone to find it, not sure of the actual application. (can get measurements and probably find the PN this weekend if needed) Probably around the same price though, I don't think it was too cheap... You can see the "I kan weldd, reely!" alternator / doggy bone bracket in the process of being built. It's structurally OK, but my welds look like poop! The little "arm" that heads over to the middle of the engine looks like a long wrench, and is a bracket that holds a 90* angled heater hose fitting into the manifold for the heater supply. I capped the stock return in the W/P with a plug. One of these days I'll either re-do my brackets, or buy one from someone who can weld! So far it works well, except too much tension from the alt. belt tensioner is tearing the belt to pieces.

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Bob Williams
Multi-colored '86 Mutt, a work in progress! (3800SC running great! Fixed the bent roof, now I need an intercooler! Yeehaa!)

thanks riceburner98, ill check them out. any plans for the tensioner on the alternator side?
you brackets look perfectly good from the picture.