The clutch pedal is the first part of the equation.
There are two problems that can occur with it.
Most of this has already been explained by Archie here www.v8archie.com/arch6.htm
(along with the step by step procedure for replacing the pedal.
I followed it myself the first time I did one.)
I'll ad-lib to it a bit, but this is mostly his work.
This is an aluminum pedal:
Notice how the "U" shaped bracket is bent to where it is closer on the top as opposed to the bottom.
When this happens the left part of the U bends in three directions:
Towards the driver, to the right and up closer to the fulcrum.
This causes two complications:
It now has a shorter stroke because the pin the banjo shaft fits on is closer to the fulcrum.
And the pedal pad can hit the floor before the master cylinder is bottomed out. A good sign of this is if you clutch pedal is not higher than your brake pedal.
The second thing to look for is excessive play from wear or missing bushing between the pin and the eye of the banjo shaft.
This is a steel pedal:
They are painted black and don’t bend very often but you can still have a problem with slop between the pin and the banjo eye.
