Getting ready to paint the control arms, spindles, and whatever else I take off during my suspension rebuild (control arm bushings, rack bushing, drop spindles). I was wondering if anyone had used both POR-15 and the Eastwood product Rust Encapsulator? If anyone has used them both, can you tell me which one you like better? Anyone had any problems with either one? Which one is easier to apply / harder for a dummy like me to mess up? Which will hold up better over the long haul?
1988 GT 5 Speed

Edit: Add Rust Bullet and ZeroRust to the list of products all caliming to be the best, all with some form of scientific study to prove it. I just want the best product I can get, ease of application is second on the lidt.

[This message has been edited by TG oreiF 8891 (edited 02-02-2006).]

I used rust encapsulator...Wouldn't use it again, and my parts were sandblasted before I started. It held up good on the cradle but the front end, rust just ended up coming through that garbage. It was like $55 for a small can, next time I'm going with POR-15 because I've only heard good about it. That's my opinion.

You my already know this web page www.por15.com it tells all about the por15 products. I like the por15 rust preventer,but have heard good things about the eastwood stuff. The por15 does fade in the sun will need to painted.I don't think the eastwood Encapsulator needs painted,but can be. There is also a chassis paint at POR15 with attributes of por15 rust preventive coating.You can use over por15 or by its self. Also some info on https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/057203.html. Hope this helps
por15 is more of a rust preventer in my opinon than encapsulator.

[This message has been edited by chopfren-z (edited 02-02-2006).]

I'm a big fan of Zero Rust. I haven't had any trouble top coating it but even by itself it holds up well. I painted a Fiero engine cradle with black Zero Rust about 5 years ago and it still looks great. It isn't very shiny though so if that's what you're looking for you would want to paint over it with Eastwood Chassis Black or something of that sort.

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Alan Frazier

'88 GT 19k miles red 5 speed FOR SALE

'86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC 5 speed(sold)
'84 2m4 project car

I too place a vote for Zero Rust. It's the greatest thing since sliced bread. POR must have rust to work ... it's a rust "converter" and unfortunately loaded with ISOCYANATES ... not nice stuff at all. Zero Rust on the other hand is what they call a sealer. You shoot it on clean metal/rust/bondo/paint, whatever. Then you can work the surface like you're working ordinary steel. This is not a primer, repeat not a primer ... it looks like a primer but it's not, You have to prime over it with whatever system you want to use, then paint as usual. You reduce Zero Rust with zxylene or lacquer thinner and then cleanup with gunwash. The stuff is almost fool proof, biggest mistake is trying to use to much ... all you need is two 1.5 mil coats. I've used it on every vehicle I've restored and won't stop using it in the future. Sorry if I sound partial to the stuff but it really is an amatuer restorer's best friend or for that matter a professional's too. The downside is that if you're using a paint system the paint manufacturer may have an out if the system fails .... I'd be willing to bet that any paint job won't fail due to Zero Rust.

One more thing, if you want it to be shinney, they have a product calle "Crystal Coat" that gives a shinney lustre.

Check out their website at http://www.zerorust.com/

[This message has been edited by Fatfenders of Canada (edited 02-03-2006).]

Shameless bump for more input. It's down to a choice between ZeroRust and POR-15.

I did a comparison between POR5 and Rust Bullet. The POR held up pretty well compared. The Rust Bullet was absolute crap.

In my case, the POR-15 allowed a pinhole or two of rust beads to escape. Literally, looked like little rust bugers that oozed out of a few sections of the frame over time. Probably literaly were pinholes in the finish that allowed moisture in. I suppose another coat of POR-15 would have helped.

The Rust Bullet was absolute garbage. Even with proper prep, it allowed the metal to rust completely through. I used it on one car that as very rusty, and one that only had a slight amount of rust. Both rusted through after 2 years. CRAP CRAP CRAP. I am sticking to POR-15 now.

For maximum happiness, you need to remove the rust from parts you intend to paint. Sandblast, use electrolytic rust removal process - or even phosphoric acid (Naval Jelly & similar ilk). Once all the rust and metal flakes are removed then you can apply your favorite rust-preventative coating.

Regardless of what kind of magic ingredients your paint / coating contain, they'll only be as strong as the surface underneath them. Paint over flaky rust and your paint will flake away too - then water gets into the imperfections and you've got an even worse mess to deal with.