Ok, what kind of a steering rack bushing do I have?

Today I pulled my upper/lower control arms etc...., out for my front-end re-build on my Formula.

After removing all the ball joints, I figured I'd at least take a look at the steering bushing on the rack
before I’d call it a day. I expected to see a plastic bushing in the end of the rack (I have Rodney’s new
steering bushing to install) and I found this, a metal type??
Why is this different from the other racks, and how do I replace/remove it from the rack housing?

Also, with the inner tie-rods, do I just unscrew them from the center shaft coming out of the rack?

[This message has been edited by 2000RagTop (edited 03-06-2006).]

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I ended up welding a piece of metal to the bushing and knocking it out. You could also knock it out from the backside if you can find a long enough rod to hit it with.
You're going to have to completely disassemble the rack. It's not hard and you should get rid of the old grease anyway and regrease it.

For the tie rods, yeah, you just unscrew them. Use a big pipe wrench after pulling those plastic covers off.
Use red loctite when reinstalling them. Just tighten them all the way down nice and tight with the red loctite and they won't go anywhere.

[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 03-05-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Steven Snyder: I ended up welding a piece of metal to the bushing and knocking it out. You could also knock it out from the backside if you can find a long enough rod to hit it with. You're going to have to completely disassemble the rack. It's not hard and you should get rid of the old grease anyway and regrease it. For the tie rods, yeah, you just unscrew them. Use a big pipe wrench after pulling those plastic covers off. Use red loctite when reinstalling them. Just tighten them all the way down nice and tight with the red loctite and they won't go anywhere.

Steven Thanks for the info…..

Is the retaining clip the only thing that holds the bushing in place?

I would imagine that at the backside of the bushing, there might be some type of flange or retaining ridge that would keep the bushing from moving inside the housing. So it would not side into the casing…..? Right?

After removing the retaining clip, if I could get a grip on the bushing, It should pull out? Hoping??

quote Originally posted by 2000RagTop: Also, I attempted to slide Rodney’s Steering Rack bushing over the end of this shaft and it really is tight. Tight to the point that it feels like it won’t fit and if it does it wouldn’t allow the shaft to move freely. Any ideas?

Typically there is a burr on the end of the shaft from the inner tie rod. You will need to sand/file that down then the bushing should fit just fine.

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PLEASE NOTE MY NEW ADDRESS

Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
(262) 835-9575

www.rodneydickman.com

quote Originally posted by Rodney: Typically there is a burr on the end of the shaft from the inner tie rod. You will need to sand/file that down then the bushing should fit just fine.

Thanks Rodney....I'll look into taking care of that burr.

Now, someone have a sure way of getting this metal bushing out of the housing?

You'll have to do it as I described above. Its rusted in there.

Make sure you clean up the rust off that shaft too, make it smooth and shiny. Clean it off with steel wool, soap and water, then go over it with fine grit sandpaper to make it smooth and lightly polished, you dont want it to be rough or it will just eat up that bushing.

quote Originally posted by Steven Snyder: You'll have to do it as I described above. Its rusted in there.

An alternative to Steven's method, is to extract the rack from the housing and use a Dremel or similar rotary tool and cutting bit to carefully cut a slot lengthwise through one side of the bushing, carefully avoiding damage to the rack housing. This will weaken the friction/corrosion fit between the bushing and the rack housing, and should allow you to extract it with common hand tools.

If you choose to do it this way, make certain that you remove all the metal shavings before re-assembling the rack.

After cleaning off the “burr” on the shaft, I’m able to slide the bushing on.
With the new bushing there is exactly the same amount of play/movement/clearance, as with the old metal bushing.

Now, I haven’t removed the old bushing yet, but I’m able to slide to new bushing on enough to feel how much clearance it has, and it feels the same as the original metal bushing .

Should there be a very slight clearance, which I think I have. Or should it be completely tight, like completely tight?

Again, I have the an 88 with the steel factory rack bushing

[This message has been edited by 2000RagTop (edited 03-06-2006).]

quote Originally posted by 2000RagTop: After cleaning off the “burr” on the shaft, I’m able to slide the bushing on. With the new bushing there is exactly the same amount of play/movement/clearance, as with the old metal bushing. Now, I haven’t removed the old bushing yet, but I’m able to slide to new bushing on enough to feel how much clearance it has, and it feels the same as the original metal bushing . Should there be a very slight clearance, which I think I have. Or should it be completely tight, like completely tight? Again, I have the an 88 with the steel factory rack bushing

My bushing has a slight hour glass cut in the inside. This is because the rack generally does not run perfectly true to the housing. Once installed you should feel little or no play.

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PLEASE NOTE MY NEW ADDRESS

Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
(262) 835-9575

www.rodneydickman.com