Spent my saturday expermenting with moving the power window motor for installing speakers in the doors. using an old stripped door(DR Side), I attempted to move the window motor down and towards the front of the door, it didnt work out too well I tried moving the bracket for the sissor/motor and that made it worse, I was attempting to bypass having to cut down the window bumper ~. Well, spent a good hour researching the general, tech, and the archive versions of those and found a great suggestion by Rickady88GT - move the motor upwards,( topic - https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000002/HTML/20060206-1-055555.html ) with some minimal cutting to the window bumper this whole operation went alot smoother than saturdays attempt to move the motor downwards.
I have door panels from a Bonneville, and this was the only way to install these panels with the speakers, I didnt want to go the Jscott1 way of building up the speakers on the panels, although I think his look great (topic - https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/056361.html or the archive thread I linked above)
If your just installing speakers w/o panels, Gokart 's way is the best IMHO. ( topic - https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000002/HTML/20050818-1-049940.html )
ok, so today I got another door down from the rafters to experiement on using the Rickady88GT method of moving the motors up, Pass side door this time.
my experiment shows I cut the outside of the door support/crash bumper off to make it easier to "Experiment on the assembly" I have moved the motor up at this point and bolted it with bolts I had handy, I would suggest smaller bolts than these, two at the top and one at the bottom. (5/16 I think?) anyway it shows that I have a set of speaker wire into a new temp harnass attached to the motor to move the window up and down to experiment on the clearances.

heres a close up of the window bumper and the motor, using a dremel and drill I had to cut this down somewhat (Rickady88GT's method of aluminum is better & easier FYI)

This is a pic of where I stopped the window in order to access the bumper to "Trim" it with the dremel tool

after clearances were tested, I cut a large whole in the door to show you all how much room is available for speakers(and the piece of metal I cut out is at the top of the pic to show how much was removed), the following pic shows the window inside the door and still alot of room left

Work in progress still, any suggestions, comments etc welcome.... experiment done, now time for the real thing.

Edit: just realized some of the links didnt work ~

[This message has been edited by Back On Holiday (edited 02-19-2006).]

Hi all,

Thanx for the build thread!! If you can keep us updated I for one would love this!!!!

I don't mean to sound harsh.. But whats the need for cutting your door frame? I take it you don't like speaker pods?

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Custom Fiero Fiberglass

Thanks for the reference.

I did the flush mount speakers because I hate kicking the speaker grills as I get in and out of the car. The speaker grills stick out .5' from the door panel. The map pocket stuck 3 times further than the speakers do now. So by doing this mod I now have more room to get in and out of the car and my windows roll down ALL the way because I did the window mod at the same time as the speaker mod.
I dont mind the look of speaker pods but they take up to much room in my opinion.

This is a few pics of the driver door. (not done yet)

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This is part of the pass side door panel from a Bonneville. dont ask which year as im not exactly sure. these are exacty what spiked my interest in this project, and so far so good they look like they will work out. Im in the process of doing the dew wipes and waiting for parts, so I havent moved the motors or cut a hole for the speakers until I get the dew wipes in and put the glass back in place. Speaking of that, Rickady88GT you have any measurements of those angles of aluminum you cut for the stops? would really like to see more details on that setup, did you use flat pieces on the two that attach to the "Sissors" ?

[This message has been edited by Back On Holiday (edited 02-21-2006).]

Add to the favorites....This is a project that's on the "to do" list. Although I'll be using something similar to the Firebird door pod.

Bob

I don't have the measurement of the aluminum but all it is is a piece of aluminum angle stock, I think 2' by 2'.
The door wont close with the map pocket of those plastic Bonny speaker pods. You will need to trim them off. and depending on the brand of speaker, you may not even need to move the window reg motor? The Infinity Kappa's that I put in look like they would bolt into that speaker pod with minimal cutting into the door?

Well, after experimentation is done I found out two things, first is that I couldnt get the glass down any further (so it doesnt stick up above the dew wipes)
second is, moving the motors on the dr and pass side are two different jobs, pass side can go up, but not dr side... it must go down because the motors are identical on both sides and the bracket doesnt allow the placement of the dr side one to be moved up. (does that make sense? lil tired here!)

first lets talk about experimentation, I was able to get the glass down all the way! - downside to that was, It wouldnt go UP all the way - the half gear thing attached to the sissor assembly didnt have enough travel to allow the window to go all the way up.
I tried cutting the bottom support that the sissor assembly bottoms out on, that didnt work either
Glass all the way down project: Cancelled. (Maybe works on 88 doors?) doesnt work on 84-87 ones

2nd, moving the motors : Pass side went off pretty well, drilled large holes in the sheet metal to access, drilled the rivitsout, moved the motor upwards, and drilled new holes through the bracket and mounting part on the motor, 3 screws used, 10-24 by 3/4 I think.
Dr side, drove me nuts... pics show rivits through the sheetmetal holes I cut, once off I found I couldnt mount the same way as the pass side. The bracket that holds the motor has a large part at the top where it is attached to the motor with two holes, there is a bottom section that attaches to the motor with one hole, I had to cut that part off with the dremel to move the motor downwards, to support the bottom I used the tail end bracket to mount on the sheet metal to support the rear. - see pics. also, beware you mount the motor close to where I did, otherwise you move it too far and the "Gear" thing will bottom out on the back side of the motor and it wont go down all the way. also, watch your clearance on the motor, the sissor assembly on mine just barely scoots above it (see pic)

Well how did they turn out? I put 6x9's in my doors using Rickady88's method of moving the motor up. I solved the bump-stop issue differently. If you would like I'll post pix.

quote Originally posted by Back On Holiday: Heres the door panel on there now... can you guess what the empty hole that I have grey epoxy around is for?

I'd be interested to see how this one works out... I have a problem with my Firebird map pocket interfering with the e-brake. I'm going to have to notch it to make room. This panel map pocket looks as big if not bigger than the firebird.