Is there anyone that had their frame repainted with POR-15 paint?

And whats your opinion on this paint?

Do you use (or your paintshop) the 4 steps process (as described on their website...heres the Canadian website http://www.canada-por15.com/index.htm )

How does it stand againts other type of chassis paint?

Is it very rust resistant? chip resistant?

Does the color and finish texture are near the original satin black of the Fiero chassis?

Edit: I've read another topic on this...but it didnt convince me https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/070451.html

[This message has been edited by perry rhodan (edited 06-10-2006).]

I bought a pint of the stuff ($25) just to cover a portion under the front fascia. It was a high gloss finish which when dry could be oversprayed with a satin finish. A little goes a long way. I just cleaned the surface, wire brushed the light rusted area and painted with a brush. It wont be seen under the fascia.

I did my cradle and under the battery area in the engine bay. I will be doing my a-arms and knuckles when I tear them down to put new ball joints in. Some notes: I bought the prep spray and like what it does to "neutralize" the rust. It gives off some fumes, so be careful. Also, take heed to the directions- dip it out of the can so none gets around the rim. The container won't open if you do. Consider whatever container you use as a paint tray as disposable.... you can wipe the stuff out of a plastic container, but I recomend some small disposable gladware. Buy a bag of "chip brushes" from home depot and consider them disposeable as well. and when they say not to let it dry on your skin because only time will remove it.... that's sooo true. I am still speckled a week later. lol. other than that, the stuff seems great and a little goes a LOOOONG way. I bought the quart based on value of price vs volume. I have painted the inside floorboards, two coats on the cradle and some misc in the engine bay and it's only about 1/4 gone. I don't know how durable it is, but it's been on ltlfrari's car for a while now, hopefully he'll chime in.

http://www.ltlfrari.com/

Got some from a shop friend --a little does go a long way--seems ok ---to early to tell about the chips & rust issue.But comparing to other chassis paints , in my opinion only, it just seemed a little pricey.

It's a mess. Trust me. Takes too long to dry, and attracts dust then looks bad. Unless of course it's too humid, then the bubbles don't have time to pop and it looks bad. I suppose in a paint booth it'd be ok. Yes I've been using it, but I've learned to treat it as an under coat to another finish. When you look at it like that, it's a great rust fix and surface seal. It sands ok, and good self etching primer sticks to it.

In fact I was thinking about using POR-15 as a primer or underlying coat before aplying , from the same company , their Chassis Coat Black
Here what they tell about it:

A semi-gloss, non-UV sensitive black coating that duplicates the original frame suspension and firewall finish used by U.S. manufacturers. This incredible coating is non-porous yet flexible, and is Hammer-Tough!

By the way, about the "finish" they seem to be aware that it's not the perfect "finish" paint...

Q. Is ChassisCoat Black the "perfect" topcoat, or does it have drawbacks I should know about?
A. Unfortunately, nothing is perfect in this world, not even ChassisCoat Black! Like POR-15, it won't come off your hands if you let it dry; it will harden in the can if you leave the lid off and dip your brush directly in the can; it may occasionally have some tiny imperfections in its finish, so we can't call it a perfect cosmetic coating; and finally, it is certainly not inexpensive. It's very difficult to make, and the base resins are very expensive, but we've never let cost stop us from making the best coatings money can buy. ChassisCoat Black is one of those coatings.

But all this info come from the company, so it's kind of biased info...thats why I better ask for real consumer experiences.

But in all I'm more about the durability of the paint with the expense of little finish imperfection. Not imperfection like when you paint with a brush but some bubbles or sand/dust in the paint looks like a good compromise.

[This message has been edited by perry rhodan (edited 06-11-2006).]

I have used POR-15 on numerous parts and vehicles and never had problems.
The cradle, trunk, and numerous brackets and mounts on my Fiero are painted with POR-15 and the boat trailer we stripped, coated with POR-15 and then covered with POR's Marine White has held up to 4 boating seasons.

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 06-11-2006).]

I have had excellent results with Rust-Mort. It is a liquid that you brush or spray on rusted areas and it changes the rust to a hard inert substance. Stops rust dead and I was able to spray it into my frame rails. Its been about a year so far, no new rust. They reccomend a top coat of paint so by using the POR-15 paint you may be able to skip a step. I didn't top coat it inside of my rails but sprayed undercoat on the exposed wheel well areas. I mention the Rust-mort because some folks would not tear down a car to paint frame parts to showroom new, rather just mitigate the deterioration.

I have used it with very good results. A little coversa lot. WEAR GLOVES, it is very durable. If you get it on your skin they wil be black for days. It is a little shinier than the factory finish, but since it is a primer, just recoat it with the proper gloss topcoat.

quote Originally posted by Electrathon: It is a little shinier than the factory finish, but since it is a primer, just recoat it with the proper gloss topcoat.

Youre talking about the POR15 right (shinier than factory finish)?

And the finish of the Chassis Coat Black...how it is?

Thanks all for the reply so far.

Yan

You don't need to topcoat it if it's out of the sun. The topcoat is really only to protect if from UV. MIne finised nicely, but then again, I was real good about geting all oil and grease off the metal and used the prep spray, so no bubbles and it tacked up fast enough the I didn't get any dust. I'm only using it on underneath stuff that already has slight surface rust, so my surface wasn't perfect to begin with and I didn't expect perfection from something you brush on. You can see all the inperfections in the surface due to it being under a car for 20 years, so I don't see how getting that perfect surface is relavent.... just my .02

Por 15 is the best I have tried. Redid the body work on my other oold car and replaced the metal on the door bottoms and front quarters.. but i got a little lazy and only did one side with it and probably did not sand it enough...The side with the por 15 has no rust and the other side without yep the paint is starting to bubble again...Replaced the floor pans as well with it and no rust at all...I only swear at the bad side but it works great but is messy...

@Slade1274

You're right.

I just want to topcoat with some paint that have the look of the original satin black (semi gloss) used originally. I dont really want a glossy finish. Thats why I asked for the Chassis Coat Black...and since these paint look tuff, I wanted to go all the way in the toughness and chip and rust resistance.

[This message has been edited by perry rhodan (edited 06-11-2006).]

quote Originally posted by perry rhodan: @Slade1274 You're right.

Man, I love to hear that. Been married for about three years, so it's been a while... ;D
I understand your position and I didn't mean to flame anyone- I'm a firm believer that everyone has a right to their opinion and not be judged for it. The only reason I replied is because in a couple posts it sounded like you "needed" to topcoat, and the original question was how many steps were "required" based on the POR-15 website. I wanted to make sure that you had it str8 what was "needed". Mine is quite glossy, so probably not to your liking. Good luck!

quote Originally posted by perry rhodan: Youre talking about the POR15 right (shinier than factory finish)? And the finish of the Chassis Coat Black...how it is? Thanks all for the reply so far. Yan

Yes, POR 15 is definatly shinier than the factory finish. It is someplace between a high gloss and a semi-gloss. I personally have not used the topcoat, as I was satisfied with the way it looked. If the part is not in a sunlight situation, you can leave it.

Works like a charm when applied to bare metal - don't expect it to stick too long when applied over top another coating of paint.