So I as we have been getting the car running I noticed a BAD valve cover leak on the INDY....

Well I went to Autozome and got a new gasket and swaped it out... well its still leaking bad... I got the rubber gaset thinking it wouild seal better. I tried to just tighten the nuts w/o going so far as to tweak the cover.

Should I crank the nuts down??? DO the valve covers warp or bend??? What can I do about this leak??? Get a new valve cover???

Any stamped steel valve cover can get tweeked.

As far as anyone here knowing how to stop the leaks, the entire GM engineering department couldn’t figure it out, why would we be able to?

That’s what I think the “heat” shields main purpose was to act as a way of diverting the leaking oil from the valve cover. To make a ditch, if you will, so the oil will flow to the front or back of the head and drip there, instead of dripping on the exhaust manifold.

It wasn’t as much of a concern in front wheel drive cars because of the added cooling from the air blowing on left side of the engine. The blowing air actually would blow the leaking oil away from the exhaust manifold.

The 2.5 was good engine at the time, other than the oil leaks and the cam gear. So why would they want to design a whole new engine just for one little car?

quote Originally posted by redraif: Should I crank the nuts down??? DO the valve covers warp or bend??? What can I do about this leak??? Get a new valve cover???

Generally speaking: No. Yes. (See below) And, maybe (see Ogre's post below).

FWIW: If you decide to use RTV, had pretty good luck on my (only) 1988 Duke as follows: Use a continuous bead of RTV, along the inner edge the of the head's sealing surface for valve cover. Carefully lay valve cover onto the bead of RTV (don't smear it!). Don't smash it down. Just lay the valve cover onto the RTV, carefully lining up the holes by eyeball. Only the weight of the valve cover should compress the uncured RTV. Carefully start a couple of bolts into the valve cover - do not tighten them. This is just to align the valve cover. Allow the RTV to cure for 24 hours preferably - overnight is probably okay.

Finally, carefully tighten the valve cover bolts to spec, preferably in sequence, and in 3 rounds. Resist the temptation to overtorque the bolts. So far, my Duke hasn't leaked, but it doesn't see a lot of miles, either - it's only used for in-town errands. So maybe it'll eventally leak! But for now, it's working well. Anyway, good luck !

BTW- the "let it set 24 hours" trick was told to me by a friend who worked as Chrysler dealership mechanic back when Chrysler was starting to use RTV for gaskets. He told me that they used to have a lot of come-backs for oil leaks until they started doing it that way.

[This message has been edited by StuGood (edited 08-05-2006).]

Look at the flange of the valve cover... Are there little divots along the rim?

Covers with the little divots where originally installed with just RTV Silicone. The Divots provide proper spacing. These divots also screw with gaskets later. Use a cork gasket with them, carefully flatten the divots, or find another cover. A rubber gasket might work with them. The silicone ones wont work.

Flat covers were installed with a gasket and yes they get bent. You can lay the flange on something hard and flat and gently hammer out the dents.

If the cover hes been abused, you may have to find another one. Only R vin covers will fit. Make sure you get one without the divots.

Also, rubber and silicone gaskets are installed dry. At most you spray the rubber ones with Permatex High Tach to help keep it from moving durring installation. Silicone ones go in completely dry.

Wrap all the cover bolts with Teflon pipe tape. It snugs up the holes to prevent these very low torque bolts from backing out. I use the same trick with transmission covers, where it can also help keep the bolts from siezing in the aluminum trans bodies. Especially where the holes go all the way thru a flange. Be carefull becuase the tape makes it easy to over tighten or leave too loose. You can't use the torque spec even if you have a wrench that reads that low.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurasic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

Had a similar problem with a trans pan gasket, went threw 3 of them in a row--all with in a day or 2 after install, they still all leaked, then a member told me about this product--figured I had nothing to lose. Goes on easy & it worked great. I wasn`t a big believer in these type products until I tried this stuff.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm

I used the stuff that 3800superfast is talking about on my duke valve cover and have had no leakage. The stuff works great.

When you guys used the Gasket maker, did you have to wait a certain amount of time before you tightened it down like the RTV?

Did you just follow the directions?

Did you you apply it to the cover or the head? Smooth it on or use a bead?

Whats with the flattening of the divots? The valve cover on my 84 has a cork gasket and sealant with the old bumps intact. The only time I have ever seen it leak was after it overheated (quite badly, might I add).

Blah, none of that waiting or anything. Just make sure the rim is perpendicular to the cover, apply sealant and gasket and tighten down.

I just followed the directions on the can - made sure I had a good bead all the way around and it sealed it up great.

I still prefer to use the Fel Pro VS50179T (PermaDryPlus) gasket. It fits all the GM 2.5L engines from 1979-1993. It costs twice as much as rubberized cork or plain rubber but it lasts five times longer (according to Fel Pro). It's molded silicone rubber on a rigid (steel) carrier with built-in torque limiters. Also comes with new bolts and force spreaders for the topside.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 08-07-2006).]

What parts stores stock this felpro gasket? The load spraeders is something I had heard from a friend to add once I flattened the cover back out!

Advance Auto Parts, Checker Auto Parts, Schuck’s Auto Supply and Kragen Auto Parts all carry Fel Pro.
The price is $28.99 on the parts america web site.
They even throw in the EGR gasket.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 08-08-2006).]

So to let you all know how it turned out...

I got joe to snag a new used VC from the junkyard. Well he tried for a non divoted one, but one just like mine is what he came back with.

So to the basement I went and worked the sealing surface flat. Then I dug up my old load spreaders from my stamped steel original firebird 2.8 VC.

Took off the old one cleaned up the new rubber gasket I had put on and reused it. VOILA. I got it sealed up no leaks!

[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 08-25-2006).]

I used a cork gasket on mine when I put it back on. It was the flat type of cover without the divits. I used some Lionhead Shellac to seal it to the head and the cover and it works great!

Josh

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