How to replace the deck lid lock cylinder.

I just found out the wife and boy wont be home for another hour.
And the customer’s car that is here right now…
Well I call it the german “unt” but I put a capital C in front of it.

This has been asked twice in the last month and I didn’t find a full step by step on it.

So go get your milk and cookies, sit back, and let uncle buddy tell you a story.

Ahhhh,
The trunk lock it can be your best friend or a PITA.


First we have to get the deck lid open


so we can get to the latch


you would almost have to be laying on your back on top of the engine to see from this angle, but I wanted you to know which of the bolts you have to take off.
You will need a ratchet, 6” extension, 10mm socket. (a 10mm wrench will work, but you’ll be there all day)

You only need to take off the two outer most bolts, the center bolt holds the release solenoid on to the latch.
Please ignore the fact that some A-hole put a Phillips screw in one side.
Once removed I just let it hang by the wire, the plastic clip on the solenoid is easily broken if you try to unplug it.


this is the side that you never get to see cause it’s facing the lock cylinder



after you remove the latch, you need to remove the plate that holds the cylinder in place.
It has two Phillips head screws in it.


this is the plate as it is being pulled away from the deck lid


notice that it has two “kinda” flat spades that go on each side of the lock cylinder.


Now you have to remove the cylinder.
This little metal rod is now hanging down after you removed the latch


grab it with your fingers and wiggle, pull, wiggle, and pull until the cylinder it out.
Sometimes they can be stuck to the foam gasket, that was supposed to seal water out.


now you have to put the new lock cylinder back in.
but you cant remember which way it is supposed to go.
This way…
You can see the groove that the bar fits in to.
It faces the rear of the car with the deck lid open


now you got the lock cylinder in place and you’re about to put the retaining plate back in.
the two spades should just barely fit under the ears of the lock cylinder




put the two screws back in to hold the plate on


as you are putting the latch back on,
this rod…


has to be guided in to this slot.


while you are putting the two 10mm bolts back on, you should be able to see marks from where the washers put scratches on the latch.
If you line the scratch marks back up with the washers while you are tightening them down, the latch should be back in the correct place and you wont have to do any adjustments.

If anyone has pics of what I’m talking about please add them.

Nice work. The only note I can add...

Don't trust the marks left by the bolt heads.... There is often enough slack in the hardware to make that a pain. In some cases, the thing may have been off before and you can't tell what set of hardware marks to go by.

Before removing a trunk, or some designes of hood and door latches, make sure you mark the deck lid or whatever it is attached to. A "Magic" marker, a touch of paint, or score line traced along the edges of the latch usually takes care of that. Avoid scoring if you can as that damages paint on metal parts. That damage starts things rotting.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurasic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

another nice write up buddy.

as far as marking things i have a suggestion. i use the wife's finger nail polish. the brush is small enough to get into tight areas and after its dry you can just chip it off with your finger nail. i know it sounds weird but it works.

quote Originally posted by sostock: as far as marking things i have a suggestion. i use the wife's finger nail polish.

i'm telling...