I need to move one of the vacuum ports on the rear of the intake, would like to add a third, and I would like to remove some small "lips" where the tubes meet the intake plate. So in short I am going to be drilling a couple of holes, plugging one hole and a small amount of grinding. Whats the best way to wash out the intake afterwards to insure I don't have any shavings left when I install it? I am thinking about using my water hose followed by a good WD40 bath. Anyone have any suggestions or comments?

Compressed air first to blow out the loose chips.

[This message has been edited by fiero_silva (edited 10-29-2006).]

Yeah, most definitely to start, but won't be enough for my comfort level.

quote Originally posted by srat110:

I have the same situation with mine where the gasket meets the flanges.
I figure that I'll just do whatever grinding I need to do, vacuum out whatever I can, then run water in through the runners and let it run out through the TB neck.
Since I don't have to drill any holes in the plenum, I may just stuff paper towels into the runners.
The trick will be getting them far enough down that I don't snag them with the grinder, but not so far that they can't be retrieved.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 10-29-2006).]

Dont grind that spot ! Doing so will not be worth the risk of a vacuum leak. On some of the prototypes we had a problem welding the area between the runners that were close to each other and even added some welding inside. I doubt that you see see much of dif of any even on a dyno, so play it safe and let it be. As for that fitting, take it out and maybe put a 90 deg in there instead. Or prehpas change the fiiting on your fuel rail to a 90? BTW: is that for your fuel gauge?

quote Originally posted by Francis T: Dont grind that spot ! Doing so will not be worth the risk of a vacuum leak. On some of the prototypes we had a problem welding the area between the runners that were close to each other and even added some welding inside. I doubt that you see see much of dif of any even on a dyno, so play it safe and let it be. As for that fitting, take it out and maybe put a 90 deg in there instead. Or prehpas change the fiiting on your fuel rail to a 90? BTW: is that for your fuel gauge?

I still remember hearing about the welding issues between the runners. I'm primarily concerned with the "short" sides. I also don't plan to get into the seams at all. Mostly just want to knock down the sharp edges.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 10-29-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Francis T: Dont grind that spot ! Doing so will not be worth the risk of a vacuum leak. On some of the prototypes we had a problem welding the area between the runners that were close to each other and even added some welding inside. I doubt that you see see much of dif of any even on a dyno, so play it safe and let it be. As for that fitting, take it out and maybe put a 90 deg in there instead. Or prehpas change the fiiting on your fuel rail to a 90? BTW: is that for your fuel gauge?

Yeah, I decided to skip the grinding. I can always do it when I swap in the 3.2 this spring but your probably right about not seeing any gains. As for the fitting, yes it's for my fuel pressure gauge. Even with a 90 it wouldn't work. I plugged one hole and moved it. You'll see the pictures below.

I have the same little bit of over hang on my short runner Trueleo intake. I showed it to my engine shop that ported my heads and did all the work on my 3.4,272 cam,1.6 roller rockers, FOCOA headers, etc. I have the DM ported TB and Troy matched the intake inlet to match. The lower intake was ported by DM and the gasket matches it perfectly. My shop recommended that I leave it alone since the gains would be slight and the risk of a vacum leak would increase. The car revs to 6000K like you wouldn't believe possible in a 60-V6. Leave it alone. John

Here is what I did with the Vacuum ports. I plugged the left port, drilled two 21/64th holes and tapped them with a 1/8-27 NPT tap. Then used some black high temp RTV as a thread sealer when I put them in. Then I blew it out with my air hose, washed out real good with my water hose, blew it out again with the air, and then alot of WD40 and shaking, pouring out, repeat. Worked like a charm.



Gauge clears now.



And she's in. Luckily my neighbor came out and lent a hand to help hold the intake while I got the EGR tube on and set the injectors in their holes. That's' the hardest part. I also replaced all my vacuum lines with hoses while I was at it. On my test drive I was hitting my rev limiter alot. I wasn't used to the car pulling past 5k so I kept my limiter set at 5500 since there wasn't any power above that anyway. I'll have to remember to bump that up a bit. Should keep me satisfied until I can get the 3.2 and getrag ready to swap in this spring.

[This message has been edited by srat110 (edited 10-30-2006).]

is that thing turbo'd?

yup. Just 8psi...............for now.

LOL!!!! I just checked my email and my dad replied to the pics I sent him of this.

quote " Looks like a bug red 6-legged monkey gettin' a little."

[This message has been edited by srat110 (edited 10-30-2006).]

srat110, Looks wicked mean.... I like it..... did Darrell do the porting recently? Have seen some post lately --if he still does the porting on t.b. & lower intakes.

quote Originally posted by 3800superfast: srat110, Looks wicked mean.... I like it..... did Darrell do the porting recently? Have seen some post lately --if he still does the porting on t.b. & lower intakes.

Haven't heard anything about DM in a while. The TB came with a 3.2 stroker I bought last weekend from Jeff88. Darrell does nice work. I'd keep trying to get in touch with him If I were you.

Here's the difference.

Wow, haven`t seen one side by side before--curious question do they have to take out the stop idle screw cap to take it apart for boring it---and did you have any problems re-setting it?

quote Originally posted by 3800superfast: Wow, haven`t seen one side by side before--curious question do they have to take out the stop idle screw cap to take it apart for boring it---and did you have any problems re-setting it?

I'm sure Darrel does. Mine has RTV in the hole for the screw so I would assume he knows how to set it.

quote Originally posted by srat110: Haven't heard anything about DM in a while. The TB came with a 3.2 stroker I bought last weekend from Jeff88. Darrell does nice work. I'd keep trying to get in touch with him If I were you. Here's the difference.

I just got my lower intake back from Darrell a few weeks ago.
He does great work!
He does seem to be very busy.

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 10-30-2006).]

Ha, if it wasn't a reg trademark, it would be a good name for our intakes. Jsut need to weld on a pair of ant

Ok , Darrell still does the lower intakes as well, would this be a direct bolt up then with the t.b bored out & the lower intake bored out --then add the whole trueleo package--anything else need to be done? Anyone have problems with idle--since the stop idle screw cap is removed during his process---I have good reason for asking--went threw a year or better with one that did--and don`t want to go threw it again--also working on the hunt idle problem , on another post, another Fiero, another problem. Oohhh this would be for that stroked 3.2 --has pretty much the ARI internals, I`m just not happy with the 8.5.1 compression.

Edit: to add the problem with the stop idle screw caps missing where not due to Darrell, the T.B.was like that when bought .

[This message has been edited by 3800superfast (edited 10-31-2006).]

quote Originally posted by 3800superfast: Ok , Darrell still does the lower intakes as well, would this be a direct bolt up then with the t.b bored out & the lower intake bored out --then add the whole trueleo package--anything else need to be done? Anyone have problems with idle--since the stop idle screw cap is removed during his process---I have good reason for asking--went threw a year or better with one that did--and don`t want to go threw it again--also working on the hunt idle problem , on another post, another Fiero, another problem. Oohhh this would be for that stroked 3.2 --has pretty much the ARI internals, I`m just not happy with the 8.5.1 compression. Edit: to add the problem with the stop idle screw caps missing where not due to Darrell, the T.B.was like that when bought .

an EFI engine TB with the idle screw... the screw is actually meant to stop the blade from closing too far and get stuck in the bore. it will not affect the idle unless it is open too far. the IAC valve should control your idle.

quote Originally posted by Francis T: Jsut need to weld on a pair of ant

I was thinking the same thing.

quote Originally posted by Francis T: Ha, if it wasn't a reg trademark, it would be a good name for our intakes...

Just change the spelling to COOTEY. Many folks wouldn't know the difference.

Either way, it's a limited market. You could always do it until someone made you stop.
People have been doing the same thing with "Fiero" logo stuff for years.

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: an EFI engine TB with the idle screw... the screw is actually meant to stop the blade from closing too far and get stuck in the bore. it will not affect the idle unless it is open too far. the IAC valve should control your idle.

Thanks, I know what your saying--- and how it works. I guess I should have worded it differently. (my bad) I was trying to get a feel for idle problems ( if any? ) that may have occured after getting back their bored out t.b.`s ----along with what can I expect with bolting on the whole trueleo package to a stroked 3.2 .

quote Originally posted by 3800superfast: Ok , Darrell still does the lower intakes as well, would this be a direct bolt up then with the t.b bored out & the lower intake bored out --then add the whole trueleo package--anything else need to be done? Anyone have problems with idle--since the stop idle screw cap is removed during his process---I have good reason for asking--went threw a year or better with one that did--and don`t want to go threw it again--also working on the hunt idle problem , on another post, another Fiero, another problem. Oohhh this would be for that stroked 3.2 --has pretty much the ARI internals, I`m just not happy with the 8.5.1 compression. Edit: to add the problem with the stop idle screw caps missing where not due to Darrell, the T.B.was like that when bought .

Just tell us you are going to use bored out TB and we'll make the TB flange on our intake big enough.