Well its been a long haul since I started this 3800sc swap Feb 2005 but now Im getting down to the wire. Ive taken alot of pictures and will be posting later. I havent done a real good job of posting my swap into one central thread but I plan to. Ive been spending every spare minute actually doing the work.
Here are some pictures of the engine sitting on the cradle.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
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05:31 PM
PFF
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theratdude64 Member
Posts: 236 From: Ogden, UT USA Registered: Sep 2005
Here are some pictures of my solution for the shift linkage modification. As posted in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071049.html the though on the gear selection cable is slightly longer but not very noticable. I went through a number of eterations before coming up with this setup. I only had to drill on hole into the existing shift bracket.The leverage arm is slightly longer giving you more leverage but the travel is slightly longer. I was able to maintain adjustablity at the tranny. I well try to come up with better detail later.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 03-12-2006).]
Great write up. Looks like there was alot of research done on the swap before you even started. You get a + in my book. Keep the Pictures coming. 3800 swap threads never get old.
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10:04 AM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
Well some progress tonite. I installed the clutch slave and depress the clutch pedal .....everything feels just right.
Here are some pictures showing zero clearance problems between the clutch arm and the exhaust. I has plenty of room as the pictures depect.
I also had to modify the flywheel inspection cover plate off of the fiero to fit around the 3800sc block. Ill post pictures of that tommorow. I also fished the wiring for the ECM through the access hole in the firewall. What a pain that was. I have roughly routed the rest of the wires and it appears my estimates so far have been correct as far as the lengths of the wires so as to hide them as much as possible.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 03-13-2006).]
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11:46 PM
Mar 14th, 2006
FastFieros Member
Posts: 2698 From: Dallas Texas USA Registered: Nov 2000
Well, that is interesting on the clutch arm. Must be a 5 speed thing that it does not clear, or, I have not installed any stock 3800 exhaust manifolds on a 5 speed car to know if it works or not. It sure does not work with SLP or TOG's.. Been there done those on manuals.
Loyde
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01:29 AM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
Loyde, Ive seen the TOG headers and it does appear that the pipes in the area of the slave are much larger and they hug the tranny so they can clear the TB ,so the will interfere. The stock GTP crossover has a bumped up portion in the area of the slave cylinder.....how convenient.
Im pretty new to Fieros so I know next to nothing about the 5 speed configurations.
More to come.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 03-14-2006).]
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07:25 AM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
Need a little help with partnumbers of new axles. I ordered new axles from AZ. Well the left at p/n 8437 seems to be correct but the right one at 8414 is about 1.5" short. AZ computer says the correct p/n fo the right side is 8414. I did some research and found that the 87 Cavilier right side axle is 8425 and the left is 8437. Arent the axles on the cavelier 2.8 4 speed the same as the Fiero v6 4 speed?
later edited: Nevermind i figured it out .....boy I must really be getting tired. It seems that my old axle was in it extended position and the new axle being new and stiffer was in its compressed postition.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 03-14-2006).]
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10:53 PM
Mar 15th, 2006
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
So wait, back that up. What are you doing for axels like from start to finish?
Im using the stock axles for the Fiero since Im going with the Fiero tranny its just that I thought i had gotten the wrong ones from AZ. But they were correct. I just wanted out new ones in.
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08:36 AM
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ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
So wait, back that up. What are you doing for axels like from start to finish?
Im using the stock axles for the Fiero since Im going with the Fiero tranny its just that I thought i had gotten the wrong ones from AZ. But they were correct. I just wanted out new ones in.
quote
Originally posted by SuperchargedV6:
Hey Rick, that sure came out perty. Good job and cant wait to see/hear it running. SC
Thanks SuperchargeedV6 Im hoping to get life into this thing this weekend or early next week. With or without an exhaust. Ill probably rig an exhaust just dumped of the down pipe just to get it started.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 03-16-2006).]
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08:39 AM
Mar 18th, 2006
3.8 SC Member
Posts: 577 From: On the Great Lakes-Ohio Registered: Dec 2003
Just a little back tracking here. Before I even attempted to start the engine I primed the oil pump. I used the method that I found I one of DarthFiero's build threads.
I quote
Last but not least, I had to make sure to prime the oil pump. While this can be done in the car, I prefer to do it with the engine sitting outside the car in case oil pressure will not build with cranking alone. I did get the oil pressure to come up with just cranking, but if you can't, you will need to manually prime the oil pump. There are several ways to do this but the easiest I have found is to do the following: 1) Take your oil filter off (or use a new one), you will several holes around the outside of the large threaded hole. These outside holes typically have a rubber seal under them that act as a 1-way check valve. I recommend using a piece of a plastic wire tie and sticking it thru one of the holes to prop open the check valve. IF YOU SKIP THIS STEP THE OIL PUMP WILL NOT PRIME. Fill the oil filter with oil and reinstall. 2) Remove the oil pressure sender and thread in a hose barb connection. It really doesn't matter what size barb you use so long as it has the correct thread for the hole. Connect a length of clear tubing to the barb fitting and connect the other end to a funnel. 3) Pour motor oil into the funnel and fill the clear tubing and approx 1/2 of the funnel. If necessary, have an assistant help you. 4) Using a rachet, socket, or equiv, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise (backwards) slowly. The oil level in the funnel and tube should begin to drop. Once the oil level gets down towards the sender fitting on the engine, STOP. Be sure not to suck air into the sender hole. 5) Disconnect your hose and fittings and reinstall the sender. At this time you can also remove the plastic wire tie from the oil filter and reinstall it. 6) Disable the ignition and fuel systems and crank the engine until oil pressure comes up. There you have it, my "easy" way of priming the oil pump.
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07:03 AM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
Awhile back I thought I had discovered a less expensive way to go with the valve cover gaskets to avoid being over charged for a set that would include the grommets...... Well that was a bad idea. The cheap ones shown below in blue didnt have all the curved shapes to go around the injector radii in the valve cover. When I tryed to get them to fit....well I broke one gasket. I started calling around I found that GM stocks the gaskets without the grommets. I could have sworned that I called them first awhile back. In the picture already installed into the valve cover you see the dark grey gasket I got from GM. Perfect fit. The cost of the cheap one was about $6 and the GM was $9. The part number for GM is 24503937.
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07:19 AM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
Here are the exhaust tips I will be using when I build my exhaust. They are the Hedman brand pn 17107. 2 1/2" in with dual 2 1/2" outs 14" long. Im hoping they will tame the exhaust a bit hooked up to the Spintec muffler
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 03-25-2006).]
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07:27 AM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
As far as the throttle and the cruise cable. I utilized the v6 throttle cable and just snipped off the crimped on loop and put a cable nut in its place. I had to open up the slot on the GTP bracket to accept the cable head and trim the cable plastic a bit to clear the cruise cable head. Im using the stock GTP cruise unit and cable. Ill still need to add a hold down of some sorts to the throttle head.
I must admit that the throttle cable's length is a little short but I do achieve full throttle and idle stop but I would like to see a little more sheave length it would not rub on the rear valve cover.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 03-25-2006).]
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08:01 AM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
Hey Rick, That sure came out perty. Good job and cant wait to see/hear it running. SC
Well its running. Its not on the road so if you want to hear it run before the Barn you'll have to come to Akron. I will be putting together a video with sound later today.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
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08:50 AM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
Here is a link to my 3800sc running. In the video I took a shot of the gauge readings and a glass of water on of the engine to illustrate the smoothness
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