I know this topic has been gone over time and time again. I just got done searching through the archives on it. But I decided that I'd like to discuss this further.
Presently I'm working with an 87 GT auto.Target weight is 2200-2300. Less if handling won't be severly affected in a bad way. BTW, on a side note, what does a loaded 87 GT weigh? I've read between 2700-2800?
The 2.8 and automatic are departing soon. If what I read is correct, the 2.8 weighs 350-370 lbs, and the auto weighs 150ish lbs. I weighed my 1.9L block (inclucding crank/rods/pistons), head (with cams/gears), intake, exhaust manifold, valve cover, oil pan which weighed in at 175 lbs. So assembled and loaded I'd say 225 lbs is safe.I imagine that the 5 spd will weigh around a fiero's as well, in other words about 100 lbs.
so roughly 175 lbs removed so far.
How much do stock wheels weigh? I found some 17's that weigh 13.5 (might have be 15.5 I'd have to check) each. which is stupid light for a 17 inch wheel. I figure the stock 15's weigh around 16-20 lbs (just my experience with 15 inch stock wheels). I'm hoping to pull another 25-50 lbs off with wheels/tire
Total is 200-225
I have no need for the A/C, and I don't know how much it weighs. I believe I've heard per the forum that I can ditch 25-35 lbs (maybe more?)
Total 225-260
I pulled the two front speakers out and will not be putting them back in. They weighed 8 or 9 lbs together.
Spare tire and jack, I have no need for it as I will be doing 90 % of my driving around town. and If by some strange chance I do go on a trip, I could always tuck it back in there. I think I've heard that at around 35 lbs (maybe less?)
Total 268-303
Battery, I've found a place that sells a battery that is 10.8 lbs for $70. This particular battery has been used on the saturn forum by a few people and so long as I'm not running a bunch of electronics it will be adequate. What's a stock battery weigh? If I had to guess from carrying a few around I'd really guess 40-60 lbs. But for now I'll say that the 10.8 lb battery drops 30 lbs.
298-333.
Spoiler, I don't want it so 10 more (well, 10 less actually ) lbs.
Power accesories, Don't want 'em, and don't need 'em. So power windows, locks, mirrors, rear defrost, etc are coming out (with there wiring)
Radiator? How about an alumium radiator? any weight savings there?
Hood/decklid, Does anyone make a carbon fiber hood or decklid and how much weight is to be removed this way?
Lexan windows? Advatages and disadvatages of these? I know it's a popular thing to do on the saturn forum but is there anything bad about lexan for a car that will be driven frequently.
Brakes/suspension? Unknown to me at this point. If there is weight to be saved and performance to be improved I'm all ears on that. I plan on switching to an 88 rear suspension also, and I'll probably keep the stock rear brakes and/or install lighter calipers. But I don't know much about the front. I'm interested in the held motorsports front suspension (or at least the tubular control arms) but I don't know how much it would help. I've also toyed with the idea of switching an 88 front suspension on as well but I don't know how hard the front is and I know that the consensus on the forum is that it's not worth the effort.
Seats. I really enjoy the factory fiero seats, but if there is something that the forum knows of that is lighter and at least as comfortable, I'm listening.
I don't think 2200 is out of the question. Which would be great for my straight line quest, but I also worry about how this will affect handling. Say I start with a stock rear 88 suspension, and an 87 front with koni shocks, eibach 1 inch drop springs, and stock sway bar with poly inserts how should I go about modifying the suspension to accomodate my lighter weight?
On the brakes, I'm actually not to worried, if I get my car down that light just with stock 88 rear brakes and something mild like the GA front brake upgrade I'd think I'd do fine.
Sorry it's rediculusly long, but I want to make sure what I'm doing is going to help me and not hurt me in the corners. O, and while I'm talking about what I want, I should probably mention what I'd like to do with the car. I'm looking for a comfortable car to DD in the summer/nice days (meaning stock looking which is why I'm not taking out the carpet and stuff), with strong emphasis on handling/breaking, and decent acceleration, with the occasional autocross or road race on the weekends.
That's all I can think of off hand. thanks for reading
Are you looking to keep it street legal? The doors are like boat anchors. If you're building an autocrossor a straight line race car, you could frame the doors in with tubing and attach the skin permanently and crawl in through the window. Get rid of the passenger side mirror. No carpeting or headliner and minimum plastic interior trim. Only one windshield wiper (your choice.) Get rid of the plastic trim under the wipers, too, and the washer bottle and pump. Probably could come up with a smaller radiator reservoir. Cut the reinforcement out to hood and rear deck, take the screens off the bottom of bottom of the engine vents. No radio? No antenna, speakers, get rid of the performance sound amp and sub--get rid of the overhead console and sunvisors
Tubular control arms? Remove the trunk and the bottom of the front compartment. Norm's Fiberglass flush mount headlites would be lighter. No passenger would mean that you could get rid of the seat. Under the fascias, you could get rid of the Z bumpers and egg crates. If you have ground effects, sh** can them. You could have an aluminum x frame built and cut it down into a roadster. There reinforcing arms in the front that could be made from aluminum instead of steel. Same with the brace in the rear suspension.
The radiator is already aluminum. You could get rid of the heater core, and the fan. Get rid of the coolant in the heater lines that run from the engine to the front compartment (they're separate from the coolant tubes.)
Never fill it up past a quarter tank. Gas weighs about 7 lb./gal.
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11:07 PM
May 24th, 2006
cooguyfish Member
Posts: 2658 From: Hamilton, OH, USA Registered: Mar 2002
I did want to mention that I am looking to keep this a fairly stock looking car, and street legal.
My almost fully stripped 88 Coupe (no power accessories, just AC) with a 3.4 DOHC weighs 2650. I have no radio, no interior except for aftermarket carpet, seats, instrument pod, and the dash shell. No trunk. No spare tire, no windshield washer tank, no jack, no heat shields of any kind anywhere, a short exhaust, 14" rims, etc. If I remove my drivetrain (475lbs for motor, 100lbs for transmission) my car will weigh 2075.. add your 225 lb motor and 100 lb transmission and you're up to 2400. For that extra 200 lbs do the following, but I'm not full convinced you'll be able to do it and keep the car safe and streetable: Get lightweight racing seats. Completely gut the interior, that means no trim, no carpet, no dash. You can't remove the heaterbox because you need defrost if you're driving on the street. Get a motorcycle battery (or the lightweight one you were looking at). 14 lb rims will keep the weight low. Look for a brake upgrade that doesnt have very thick rotors. The 12" Corvette brake upgrade doesn't add much weight (20-30lbs, but you need brakes :P). Remove all sheet metal from the fender areas at the front and rear compartments. Cross-brace where necessary. In the end, you'll have a loud passenger compartment, no radio, uncomfortable seats, no AC, rims that can't survive potholes, etc.. I guess it depends on what your idea of streetable is. You will definitely be able to keep it looking stock on the outside. On the inside? No way.
-Steven
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07:52 PM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
-- The stock seats (with rails) weigh about 35lb each. -- The interior carpet weighs almost 20lb per side (40 lb total, including the padding). -- The center console (the whole thing, from dash to firewall, including the plastic skeleton) weighs about 20lb. The rear section of the console weighs 10lb by itself. -- The dash weighs 13lb, including the plastic ductwork -- The stock style battery weighs a little over 25lb.
Also...
-- You can find aftermarket seats on ebay that weigh around 20lb. A pair of those will save about 30lb. -- You can use lightweight carpet to save about 20lb or so (depending on the carpet). -- You can replace the rear console piece with a fiberglass copy to save a few pounds. -- Adding Grand Am brakes to the front will add about 16lb (8lb per wheel) -- Adding '88 Fiero brakes to the rear will add about 6-8lb (3-4lb per wheel) -- An aftermarket overflow tank can save a few pounds simply by virtue of carrying less water. Plus, a small one will leave more airspace behind the radiator (which is good if you have a hood vent). -- Kris Munson's flushmount headlights weigh about 10lb less than stock
Have fun!
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08:40 PM
kamikaze7 Member
Posts: 61 From: Hamilton, ON, Canada Registered: Oct 2005
A common addiction, weight, too much of it, how to get rid of it and acheive the best power to weight ratio!
I think the issue is definitely what you consider streetable.
Also, remember that a reduction in rotating mass is the equivalent of reducing double the amount of stationary (dead) weight. Light weight wheels and a lighter flywheel will help in acceleration.
As for the dead weight I would also suggest removing the damper on the rack and pinion, as per Herb Adams, which would save 7-8lbs. The light weight battery is a bonus, especially if you can relocate it to the front of the car, again vis avie Herb Adams. I have also heard of getting custom made aluminum front spindles. That should save another 25-50lbs per side.
Keep the suggestions coming as I think your obsession is shared by many!
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09:39 PM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
I knew someone would suggest it i just forgot to mention myself that I only weigh 145 on a 5'10" frame.
I still want this car to look stock. That's why I'm more interested in lighter weight components than stripping everything else out. By that I mean I"d rather do like mentioned above and get aluminum spindles (where at?) to save 25 lbs than pull the heater out.
I still want this to be a semi comfortable DD type car. Having said that, I can live without A/C, I'll just drive a different car on excessively hot days, but I won't remove the heating systems even though I don't plan on driving in the winter, it's still more nessacery to have heating than A/C.
I also plan to redo the interior panels. So if I can learn how to fiberglass I will make a dash.
I'm also very interested in (like I said light components more than stripping) carbon fiber hood and decklid. Does anyone make one or both?
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05:35 AM
Derek2M6 Member
Posts: 289 From: Guelph, Ontario, Canada Registered: May 2006
I'm also very interested in (like I said light components more than stripping) carbon fiber hood and decklid. Does anyone make one or both?
Kingdom Customs has a carbon fiber decklid listed for the notchie and fastback for $695 shipped. I've been eyeing one for my notchie when I put it back together but I am fearful of cutting into it to add an extra vent.
------------------ 1986 Pontiac Fiero SE - 2.8L V6 - Muncie 4-speed 2005 Toyota Echo Hatchback- 1.5L I4 VVT-i - 5-speed
Formerly known as Street&Strip Performance
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08:03 AM
kamikaze7 Member
Posts: 61 From: Hamilton, ON, Canada Registered: Oct 2005
i weighed my car at sac raceway. with a full tank of gas and around 150lbs of sound equipment i weighed in at 3100lbs... im wondering where the extra 350lbs came from. caus ive seen curb weights of around 2600-2700 lbs
edit: the scales had water in them...it weighed in at 2755 3 weeks later
------------------
[This message has been edited by hatchetrider84 (edited 01-09-2007).]
everyones got ideas for making the car lighter. but what about making yourself lighter before you get into the car?? heres a few pointers:
-sandals instead of shoes -loose the socks pretty boy, there just dead weight -same with the belt -toss the ball cap -and finally, take a dump before driving... thats good for a few pounds
with all this you should be able to take 10 pounds out of the car... which clearly translates to 10hp.
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01:08 AM
triker Member
Posts: 454 From: Yreka, Ca. USA Registered: Apr 2000
You can gut the magnets and brushes out of the headlight motors. You'll have to crank them up and down, but hey, its a racecar u want right? Or how about just making two properly sized prop rods that would attach to the headlight housing and then just rest against the lower bucket? Those motors must weight something..
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09:44 AM
PFF
System Bot
Jun 5th, 2006
kamikaze7 Member
Posts: 61 From: Hamilton, ON, Canada Registered: Oct 2005
How about changing out the pop-up headlights with the flush mounted kit? This would eliminate the motor and housing for the headlights.
I was thinking about making some slim pop ups and seeing about making my own motor set-up. I really don't like the look of flushmounts.
I'm also interested in knowing if anyone has ever tried to make a replica of the stock fiero hood and decklid but much thinner. I'm going to learn fiberglass because I decided that I want to make my own dash but based of my 96 SL2 dashboard. So I'm planning to use fiberglass on that.
I really wish I had more time, money, and abilities...
get rid of all the reinforcing in your trunk and hood pieces its just there to support them when they are propped up anyway,use race car hold down pins and clips to hold them in place .then you can ditch all the torsion support rods and hinges etc. and no they wont brake in half.dont forget that your car will ride higher when you dump a lot of weight .you will need lowering springs to get it back down.
Lexan windows? Advatages and disadvatages of these? I know it's a popular thing to do on the saturn
expect people to shoot at you?? jk!
lexan is tuff to break but eazy to scrach best used for fixed windows as just winding up and down will quickly marr them up and forget a windsheild use as wipers will make it unuseable best for a pure race car use not practical for a street car maybe on the rear window as that does not move is the only place on a Fiero
no need for super expenceive carbon fiber thin plain fiberglass copys can save allmost the same weight and it is way eazyer to work with, and get for the hood and rear deck foam core [airex] with a thin layer on both sides is strong enuff for boat hulls so way over what a car needs the advantage to foam core is very little flex unlike a thin layer in flat shapes bonus is low heat transfer
------------------ Question wonder and be wierd are you kind?
I'm sure the fiero has it too, but under the carpet of my wbody was about 3/16" of tar like insulation. I scraped all that crap off and painted the floor, then peeled all the padding off the back of my carpet, interior panels, etc. It all weighed in about 22lbs, granted this was a Gp with a backseat though, but as far as the look goes, you couldn't tell. The interior noise went up and it took a while to track and stop a few rattles though. And as far as seats, if you got some cash to shell out, Sparco makes some nice seats for around $600 each that could still use the stock seatbelts and they have a lot of colors too. Corboeh or something like that makes a similar seat that is about $200 cheaper. I have two sparco speed seats ($220 each but have to use harnesses, still trying to figure out that one) and they weigh about 10 lbs each.
Some Ideas I had about my LSP (lightweight solo project): I'm removing the inner structure on the hood & decklid (as mentioned). On the decklid, I plan to bond aluminum angle to the lid, & bolt the same to the hinge mounts, & have those hinge on a single bolt on each side. For the lock, I have a toolbox lock to replace the original that will simply hook under a pin or a slot in the fiberglass. Savings of around 10 to 15 lbs per panel + the weight of the hinges & torsion bars, & lock assemblies (hood pins in the front hood). For the headlights, I plan to hinge the doors (actually skins only) at the bottom front & use a simple hand release to drop them down to reveal fixed lights. Savings of whatever the headlight assys. weigh, as well as the hinge/spring mechanism for the doors. (30 - 40 lbs.?) I've already gutted a door, removing the glass, inner steel panel, & crash bar leaving just the outer frame so that it bolts up & opens/closes. Both inner & outer panels still bolt up. I plan to add a bar or two of rollbar material (1 1/2" tube) to replace the crash bar. Savings of at least 30 lbs per door. Replacing the cast mirrors with plastic '83 ZX ones. I'll replace the dash & all interior parts (door panels, consoles, seats) with fiberglass. Dunebuggy seats only weight about 3 lbs. each with cover/pad. Carpet will be removed & replaced with a thin aftermarket carpet with no padding. I'm going to cut out all metal from the front suspension forward, & the rear suspension back, including the framerails, bumper reinforcements, eggcrates, etc. It will be replaced with just enough aluminum brackets to mount the body skin. I'll be moving the radiator to the rear, to eliminate the weight of the long tubes & the water they hold. That will enable me to completely fill in the grill area for more downforce. All wiring will be stripped out, & replaced with minimal needed to run the lights & engine (etc.). I'll be running a stock (I'll add a cam & headers) V6 with twin progressive Holley-Webbers, eliminating the electronics & making the engine breath better. I'm also thinking about cutting the entire roof (& ALL glass) off for a true roadster, & if I do I won't be running any kind of heater, or wipers. Of course I'll have to add bracing in the rockers, but I still think I'll save at least 100 lbs. plus the weight will be lower. That leaves me with the suspension/cradle/crossmember to lighten up. I'm thinking I'll eventually make lightweight cradle & crossmember with tubing, & make tube control arms front & rear. Coilovers will take off a few pounds too. Anyway, that's the plan. A lot of this can be done & still have a stock looking car. My plan is to leave the basic body/shape stock, with just scoops & vents & the filled-in grille, but without the roof. (it'll be '88 spaceframe with notch panels/lights & aero bumper/ground effects) I'm going to start on it just as soon as I finish building the VW project (a mid-engine Cabriolet using Fiero running gear & a 283) & putting another 283 in the yellow '88 & transferring the black body panels from the "donor" '88 ( the black car at https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/061103.html ). Should have them all done in a couple months. Yeah *right* LOL! ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.
[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 01-09-2007).]
wow paul send me some pictures when your done... i might just have to butcher my car lol i need some seats that sit me a little lower in the car.... cause my head is to the sunroof if i situp i usually slouch... but if i were in an accident i would smack my head something narly
[This message has been edited by antinull.com (edited 01-09-2007).]
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11:23 AM
PFF
System Bot
FierOmar Member
Posts: 1644 From: Glendale, California, USA Registered: Dec 2001
Some Ideas I had about my LSP (lightweight solo project): [Portions deleted]
I've already gutted a door, removing the glass, inner steel panel, & crash bar leaving just the outer frame so that it bolts up & opens/closes. Both inner & outer panels still bolt up. I plan to add a bar or two of rollbar material (1 1/2" tube) to replace the crash bar. Savings of at least 30 lbs per door.
[Portions deleted] I'll replace the dash & all interior parts (door panels, consoles, seats) with fiberglass. Dunebuggy seats only weight about 3 lbs. each with cover/pad. Carpet will be removed & replaced with a thin aftermarket carpet with no padding. I'm going to cut out all metal from the front suspension forward, & the rear suspension back, including the framerails, bumper reinforcements, eggcrates, etc. It will be replaced with just enough aluminum brackets to mount the body skin. I'll be moving the radiator to the rear, to eliminate the weight of the long tubes & the water they hold. That will enable me to completely fill in the grill area for more downforce.
[Portions deleted] I'll be running a stock (I'll add a cam & headers) V6 with twin progressive Holley-Webbers, eliminating the electronics & making the engine breath better. I'm also thinking about cutting the entire roof (& ALL glass) off for a true roadster, & if I do I won't be running any kind of heater, or wipers. Of course I'll have to add bracing in the rockers, but I still think I'll save at least 100 lbs. plus the weight will be lower.
That leaves me with the suspension/cradle/crossmember to lighten up. I'm thinking I'll eventually make lightweight cradle & crossmember with tubing, & make tube control arms front & rear. Coilovers will take off a few pounds too. Anyway, that's the plan. A lot of this can be done & still have a stock looking car. My plan is to leave the basic body/shape stock, with just scoops & vents & the filled-in grille, but without the roof. (it'll be '88 spaceframe with notch panels/lights & aero bumper/ground effects)
Doors are relatively heavy... about 95 lbs. each. There is a lot of room for lightening here. If you are only going to use the car for SOLO, you probably don't need the additional roll bar material. 8Shark (Gerald Storvik) may have taken the best approach. See: http://www.8shark.com/31.htm In fact, it may be worth checking out his entire project build as he also built a custom cradle. See:: http://www.8shark.com/17.htm It would be tough to get any lighter.
Our roadster is essentially a stock V6 with 4 speed. As it sits in the picture, it weighed about 2050 lbs. We decided to keep the radiator up front... don't forget the balance factor in your "weight and balance" considerations.
If you remove all glass, including the windshield as we did, don't forget that the SOLO rules may require some additional height on the roll bar. We had Kirk Racing fabricate a custom roll bar; about 4"-5" taller than their normal Fiero roll bar... and slightly different configueration.
Since the photos were taken, we have made some alterations to this car. The front has changed back closer to stock, and we have reinstalled the original rear clip and deck lid (primarily to move the wing more rearward).
that car looks like a big go-kart lol no offence its cool looking tho... i think i might just remove the top and rear window area and put a roll bar in leaving the windscreen..... im trying to figure out a way to make it modular <-redicilous idea i kno
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12:03 PM
82-T/A [At Work] Member
Posts: 24139 From: Florida USA Registered: Aug 2002
I knew someone would suggest it i just forgot to mention myself that I only weigh 145 on a 5'10" frame.
I still want this car to look stock. That's why I'm more interested in lighter weight components than stripping everything else out. By that I mean I"d rather do like mentioned above and get aluminum spindles (where at?) to save 25 lbs than pull the heater out.
I still want this to be a semi comfortable DD type car. Having said that, I can live without A/C, I'll just drive a different car on excessively hot days, but I won't remove the heating systems even though I don't plan on driving in the winter, it's still more nessacery to have heating than A/C.
I also plan to redo the interior panels. So if I can learn how to fiberglass I will make a dash.
I'm also very interested in (like I said light components more than stripping) carbon fiber hood and decklid. Does anyone make one or both?
This is good to know, I was just going to suggest going on a diet. I see far too many people doing silly things like replacing steel bolts with aluminum bolts for weight loss, when they themselves weigh over 300 pounds.
I've personally found that... the ABSOLUTE best way to reduce the weight of any car, is to completely tear it down, and build it back up with only the essentials.
I reluctantly tore down an 87 SE Fiero with a rust-free spaceframe... (couldn't get a title... ), and after removing various panels, I was simply amazed at just how many things there are hidden and tucked away in the car that you might not ever need or use.
I mean, Pontiac doesn't just WASTE money... they put things there for a specific reason. But, if you're a gear head, there are things that you can simply get rid of in light of a lighter alternative. For example, the ENTIRE air intake passage can be replaced almost completely with a dryer hose of sorts. Rodney Dickman has a kit that allows you to replace the elbow and "box" that sits behind the panel.
Then you've also got a series of steel vacuum lines that run along either side of the engine compartment. Half of them are no longer even being used because of recalls. You can eliminate most of those. I seem to recall there is some sort of a "tank" of sorts that's part of the fuel evaporative system, and it's located next to the battery on the inside of the rear quarter (bolted just under the frame rail). You can only see it if you remove the quarter panel piece, or remove the inner wheel well liner. (not to be confused with the fuel evap canister on the rear drivers side).
Then you've got all that stuff under the hood. If you don't plan on using A/C, there's a bunch of stuff up there. The evaporator, dryer, etc...
It's been a dream / goal of mine to one day build up a Fiero coupe, and just have it totally stripped. Total spartan interior, rubberized coating on the floor (and painted)...
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: This is good to know, I was just going to suggest going on a diet. I see far too many people doing silly things like replacing steel bolts with aluminum bolts for weight loss, when they themselves weigh over 300 pounds.
I've personally found that... the ABSOLUTE best way to reduce the weight of any car, is to completely tear it down, and build it back up with only the essentials.
I reluctantly tore down an 87 SE Fiero with a rust-free spaceframe... (couldn't get a title... ), and after removing various panels, I was simply amazed at just how many things there are hidden and tucked away in the car that you might not ever need or use.
i ripped out the whole ac system allready like i said i weigh 220 lbs but there not much i could lose and be health (im 6'6 with a medium build)
im gonna go weigh my ac system stuffs for you okay?
the pipes are still partially in the car.... those are a pain to remove lol
okay heres the stuiff i removed so far: estimated with a bathroom scale ^_- ac compressor 13 lbs evaporator 3lbs accumilator 2lbs condensor 7lbs a/c system tubing 6lbs spare tire 29.5lbs jack 6 lbs tire iron and tire bracket/pole 3 lbs random bolts and screws .5lbs total removed: 70 lbs wow thats so not alot lol
[This message has been edited by antinull.com (edited 03-10-2007).]
Originally posted by FierOmar: A lot of what you are planning has already been done.
Yeah I didn't expect I was doing much that was new.
quote
Originally posted by FierOmar: Doors are relatively heavy... about 95 lbs. each. There is a lot of room for lightening here. If you are only going to use the car for SOLO, you probably don't need the additional roll bar material. 8Shark (Gerald Storvik) may have taken the best approach. See: http://www.8shark.com/31.htm In fact, it may be worth checking out his entire project build as he also built a custom cradle. See:: http://www.8shark.com/17.htm It would be tough to get any lighter.
I plan to drive the car on the street occasionally: it will be street legal. My luck if I didn't add the side crash protection I'd get T-Boned. I would surely be paranoid with just plastic between me & other traffic. Interesting concept for the rear suspension. Turning an independent into a "solid axle" to save weight. Definately a cool little car.
quote
Originally posted by FierOmar: Our roadster is essentially a stock V6 with 4 speed. As it sits in the picture, it weighed about 2050 lbs. We decided to keep the radiator up front... don't forget the balance factor in your "weight and balance" considerations.
One thing I forgot in the above post. I'll be using a plastic fuel cell up front to replace the steel tank. I'll also put the battery up front for better balance, *and* I'll have the aerodynamics of a solid frontend (no grille). I plan to add a chin spoiler, & to that a rubber extension. Your weight gives me real hope. My goal was 1800lbs. - now I think it'll be much lighter. Wonder what 8 Shark's car weighs?
quote
Originally posted by FierOmar: If you remove all glass, including the windshield as we did, don't forget that the SOLO rules may require some additional height on the roll bar. We had Kirk Racing fabricate a custom roll bar; about 4"-5" taller than their normal Fiero roll bar... and slightly different configueration.
I also plan to add 2 loop rollbars. Thanks for that info I'll have to re-check those rules. I remember we had to raise the loop on the Formula Vee to comply, but I was thinking that was for track racing.
~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Scientists say we only use 20% of our brains. But if they're only using 20%, how would they know?
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04:03 PM
THE BEAST Member
Posts: 1177 From: PORT SAINT LUCIE,FLORIDA,USA Registered: Dec 2000
Most people don't realize this, but the heaviest part of our cars is probable the doors, with about 100+lbs each one of them, so if you could make lighter doors that could still be reliable to crash/impacts then you could save quite some pounds. AC and lighter doors no floor jack or spare, tool box, racing seats, no carpet, no center console (quite heavy too for its size) you could make a neat little/light one, and replace the front and rear lids with carbon fiber and no sub frame (weaker for sure, but most of the added weight comes from it), no trunk, lighter wheels, no glass, get after market head/tail lights smaller and lighter ones; then you should be able to loose at least 600 lbs, hey doors alone are in the upper 2XX lbs. You could get fancy and star making aluminum billet suspension parts, engine cradle and so on, but you could spend a lot of $$$$$ if you know what I mean.
Take care, and wherever you do, keep in mind that your mods should not jeopardize or compromised your safety or others for that matter, and bottom line ask your self is this a street car or a race car or both and do the mods that fit your answer...
im deffinately not wanting to compromise saftey reducing some weight is good tho but if i was cutting the whole car down i would never be able to drive down the road in it lol
regarding hood pins... couldnt someone just take the hood off ur car and take things? would you do a 4 corner install of those to remove all of the hinges ect.... i havent seen how they work before
) lbs.
