Starting this thread to help get a 2.8 rebuild back together. Will be asking for help identifying shields/brackets/bolts/nuts/etc. Just to generally make sure we get it back together correctly.
We'll start off with the timing chain cover, we feel we have all the bolts and brackets figured out but would like to have some confirmation. Pics of the bolts in place and the brackets laying near their mounting points.
So what do you guys say, does it look right?
------------------ Don't take life too seriously -- you'll never get out if it alive.
[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 07-29-2008).]
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04:38 PM
PFF
System Bot
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
That one is definatly the thermostat housing cover Sorry, just had to be a smart ass.
I think that it a battery wire guide/protector for the battery cable on the front of the block, near the starter. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
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05:09 PM
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
Hope this might help. Picture is worth a 1000 words. I have lots of others.
Mine didn't have that small one must have been on a 87-88.
Yours looks like an 85-86 V6, got one of those in the backyard, different bolt types make it hard to identify which bolts are which when compared to the 87 - 88. Appreciate the pics though, hopefully this thread will be useful future reference for others as well as myself.
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05:16 PM
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
That one is definatly the thermostat housing cover Sorry, just had to be a smart ass.
I think that it a battery wire guide/protector for the battery cable on the front of the block, near the starter. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
I would expect no less from you! LOL
Anyone else care to confirm the small bracket in the picture, I think he's got the round shiny thing pinned down.
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05:18 PM
Indiana_resto_guy Member
Posts: 7158 From: Shelbyville, IN USA Registered: Jul 2000
Yours looks like an 85-86 V6, got one of those in the backyard, different bolt types make it hard to identify which bolts are which when compared to the 87 - 88. Appreciate the pics though, hopefully this thread will be useful future reference for others as well as myself.
Wrong! It's an 87-88 cover. All your bolt placements look OK too. Don't forget to use some RTV around the bolts that pass through to water jackets. The clip on top of the round shiny thing holds the main harness, look for a large clip on the harness to locate placement. (I think it goes around the location of the oil filter.) The bracket on top of the water pump holds the EGR valve solinoid and you will need to bend the tab up to horzontial to make it fit nice.
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06:52 PM
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
Wrong! It's an 87-88 cover. All your bolt placements look OK too. Don't forget to use some RTV around the bolts that pass through to water jackets. The clip on top of the round shiny thing holds the main harness, look for a large clip on the harness to locate placement. (I think it goes around the location of the oil filter.) The bracket on top of the water pump holds the EGR valve solinoid and you will need to bend the tab up to horzontial to make it fit nice.
My bad! I glanced at the pics and didn't see the torx head bolts, it looked more like the rusty 86 shortblock I have laying in the back yard which has the different front cover. Basically the same bolts it on the 86 but was looking for the easy to identify different torx bolts to check out configuration.
We'll be installing the front cover, water pump, oil pump, oil pan, and heads tomorrow. at least thats the plan right now, we hope to get more of it together but figured if we take our time we might only have to do it one time LOL! Will go overkill on the pics and will probably have plenty more questions tomorrow!
Thinking this one thread might make a good reference for others if we show each bracket and bolt/nut placement.
Please stay tuned...............
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07:04 PM
tjm4fun Member
Posts: 3781 From: Long Island, NY USA Registered: Feb 2006
the little bracket is useless anyway, my harness's clip was broken. ther is a better way to route that harness anyway to keep it clear of all obstructions. you'll see as you thread it back in.
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07:29 PM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5236 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
I remember that thread. if you find something you have questions on that you can;t find there, PM me with the area in question. I took a ton of pics before and as I ripped mine down.
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03:24 AM
Raydar Member
Posts: 40925 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
I remember that thread. if you find something you have questions on that you can;t find there, PM me with the area in question. I took a ton of pics before and as I ripped mine down.
i'd be happy to. pm me an address and i'll make a copy for you DRA
Richjk21, you type faster then i do!
Hey, I PM'd Rich, appreciate the offer though!
Things did not go terribly bad today but it could have been better. Haven't run across any real road blocks today just materials failures! LOL I'm gonna post some additional info and pics in the GFC thread. We have the oil pump on and pan installed, heads and valve adjustment done, and I think Surge wants to try to get the lower intake back on before he leaves tonight. Tomorrow we should be getting into more detail cwap!
[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 01-13-2007).]
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06:35 PM
PFF
System Bot
Raydar Member
Posts: 40925 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
I've got Jazzman's picture disk. I can burn you a copy and bring it Tuesday. Will that work? Or will it be too late?
Think Rich was gonna throw one in the mail but I may see you before it gets here since the Post Office is closed Monday. Don't think it will be to late, we're hoping to get most of the motor back together this weekend but might not get it on the cradle till next weekend. If it's no trouble go ahead and burn one (that didn't sound right LOL) and if we end up with two Surge can put one in his library. Did you want me to give you a call monday night or just call when we get close to Atlanta Tuesday?
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10:55 PM
Jan 14th, 2007
Raydar Member
Posts: 40925 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
Originally posted by DRA: Did you want me to give you a call monday night or just call when we get close to Atlanta Tuesday?
Either way. If I don't answer the home phone after 4 rings, hang up. Otherwise the machine will grab it. Any idea what time you'll be free, Tuesday? I'd like to get downtown about the time you're finishing up. That way I won't have to keep y'all waiting.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 01-14-2007).]
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12:54 AM
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
Either way. If I don't answer the home phone after 4 rings, hang up. Otherwise the machine will grab it. Any idea what time you'll be free, Tuesday? I'd like to get downtown about the time you're finishing up. That way I won't have to keep y'all waiting.
My appointment is at 2:30, they said it shouldn't take but a couple of hours but you know how medical appointments can go! I'll call you Tuesday when we get in.
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01:27 AM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5236 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Originally posted by DRA: heads and valve adjustment done, and I think Surge wants to try to get the lower intake back on before he leaves tonight.
You really should install the intake before the valves are adjusted. The push rods go through the gaskets and it is best not to cut the bottom section out of the gasket to install them (the part that says "do not cut").
As a quick reference to the valves, it is very common for people to adjust them too tight. A quick guide is to look at the threads out of the top of the adjuster nuts, they should all be about the same amount exposed. If there is much difference, you have one wrong, recheck that one.
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10:56 AM
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
You really should install the intake before the valves are adjusted. The push rods go through the gaskets and it is best not to cut the bottom section out of the gasket to install them (the part that says "do not cut").
As a quick reference to the valves, it is very common for people to adjust them too tight. A quick guide is to look at the threads out of the top of the adjuster nuts, they should all be about the same amount exposed. If there is much difference, you have one wrong, recheck that one.
We didn't cut the gasket, we put the gasket on prior to adjustment. During adjustment with the lower intake off it allowed us to look at how the pushrods were seated in the lifters and also insure the lifter/plunger was not overly depressed. After adjustment was complete we dropped the lower intake on and torqued to spec.
Don't know how much will get done today, we wiped everything down, taped it off, and are painting today, so actual progress on reassembly is kind of at a standstill for the moment (at least for 3 hours).
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01:48 PM
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
I think I have it laying in the correct orientation in the pic above, the side on the ground would be the side against the block or crank. Does the little spacer go to the inside (engine side) or outside of the flywheel?
Been looking at every pic I can find but still can't determine which side that little spacer goes on!
Believe I have found it, looks like the little washer/spacer thingy goes to the outside or trans side of the flywheel/flexplate.
[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 01-14-2007).]
Off my 2.8 and 3.4 it was on the outside. The extra hole lines up with the extra hole in the flexplate and crank. Since I just walked up from my garage after having swapped my externally balanced one for the correct neutrally balanced one, its kinda fresh.
Look at the metal surrounding the boltholes for the marks left by the bolts when they were originally tightened down, that'll tell you how it went on. It's been way too long since I worked on an auto tranny so I can't tell you.
James
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07:48 PM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
Look at the metal surrounding the boltholes for the marks left by the bolts when they were originally tightened down, that'll tell you how it went on. It's been way too long since I worked on an auto tranny so I can't tell you.
James
I think Hudini confirmed what we thought was correct, I couldn't really look at where the bolts had been because we cleaned everything up with parts cleaner, brushes, and some scuff pads, then wiped off with acetone and painted. Been pretty pleased with the fact that we have encountered very little rust and trying to insure that it stays that way for as long as possible!
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08:00 PM
Jan 15th, 2007
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
What size chase for the temp sensor opening in the lower intake? This is the temp sensor next to the cold start injector switch/sensor/whatever.
New sensor just does not want to start, figured it makes sense to run a chase through it to clean the threads up.
NEXT
The plug that goes in the head where the other temp sensor goes, what size and what do you call the tool to remove that plug?
It needs come out of the back head and go into the other head, wasn't paying attention when we threw the heads on or this could have been avoided, oh well!
Thanks in advance guys and gals!
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05:47 PM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5236 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Originally posted by DRA: The plug that goes in the head where the other temp sensor goes, what size and what do you call the tool to remove that plug?
5/16th square drive. It may or may not come out. You often have to drill them and fight them out. They tend to rust in place.
quote
Originally posted by DRA: What size chase for the temp sensor opening in the lower intake? This is the temp sensor next to the cold start injector switch/sensor/whatever.
1/2" PIPE tap if I remember correctly. When I coat the manifolds I always chase them and some look pretty bad. I have not had one I could not save yet though.
[This message has been edited by Electrathon (edited 01-15-2007).]
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06:26 PM
Richjk21 Member
Posts: 2228 From: Central Square NY, USA Registered: Feb 2006
The plug in the opposite head is either a 8mm or 10mm square drive, I got a set of 3 square drive plug sockests (8mm, 10mm, 1/2") at napa for like $8.00 I almost sent my core back with the plug still in the head, till I realized It was missing from my new motor.
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06:40 PM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5236 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
That plug is the hardest thing I have ever tried to get out. Had to drill at least 2 out. I broke I don't even know how many things trying to get it out. I had to even break the shell in two after I drilled it out execpt just the threads.
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09:05 PM
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
That plug is the hardest thing I have ever tried to get out. Had to drill at least 2 out. I broke I don't even know how many things trying to get it out. I had to even break the shell in two after I drilled it out execpt just the threads.
I didn't want to hear that, I'm just gonna pretend I didn't hear that, I'm just gonna go into a state of denial...............
Probably won't get to find out till thursday but keeping my fingers crossed!
[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 07-29-2008).]
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09:41 PM
Jan 18th, 2007
DRA Member
Posts: 4543 From: Martinez, Ga, USA Registered: Oct 1999
Problems locating the tools I need. We went by Lowes and O'Reilly's today and had no luck with a 1/2 npt chase or tap and the same for the square drive 8mm or 5/16.
Heard NAPA mentioned for the square drive, guess I'll try them tomorrow. Might have to hit the local Harbor Freight. Any other suggestions for sources?
As to removing the plug, run the head by an automotive machine shop, they pull stuff like that all the time and likely won't charge you much at all to remove it.