My 1992 3800 bonny non-sc swap is finally done... minus one thing...... Its not getting fuel.

I'm absolutely positive every sensor and wire is correctly hooked up according to the 92 bonny schematics.

I wired it up once,,, tore it apart and did it again just to make sure everything was where it needs to be. It is.

Its getting great spark, i got new plugs/ wires.

Im left with one blue wire "GD5" Pass key fuel enabler.

My engine runs fine when i feed it via starting fluid can. And the injectors have power. Everything is hooked up correctly besides GD5 so correct me if im wrong, this is more than likely a pass key issue?

What is the most simple least expensive way to go about this "design flaw "imo""?

Does anyone have some schematics using potentiometers or resistors or anything?

This is the last thing i need to do before this is drivable!!! HELP!!!

Thanks!

------------------

I ran into this with the 3.4. If you don't have a computer set up for you yet I'd recommend just having Ryan at sinister performance burn you a chip. He can delete the pass key easily.

If you want to run a resistor that's homemade, there are some 15 different frequencies, so you would be trail and error until you got within +/- 2 frequencies of what you needed.

Third option would be to get one of these.
http://mysite.verizon.net/v...rz1/id1.html#vatsmod

I vote computer for the win.

Good luck with it man!

Thanks! Would there happen to be any schematics for that thing they are selling floating around anywhere so i could build it myself?
is that a 555 timing chip i see?

Just go to a wreckers look for a similar GM vehicle to the one your engine came from which still has the key in the ignition and remove the ignition lock cylinder and the pass key module from it and wire this into your Fiero. Hide the extra lock cylinder with the key in it so you can remove the key when parking in areas of concern. The key only has to be in the cylinder for it to work. Dan

------------------


Signature compliments of F-I-E-R-O
2003 3800SC series II powered
www.photosled.com/showgallery.php/cat/631
www.photosled.com/showgallery/cat/1583

Why on earth would you go to all of that trouble! I'm sure that method would work (if the ECM recognized the other lock cycl.) but that seems way more complicated than it needs to be. If you're going to do it you might as well do it right, expecially you Chris, I know you've but a great deal of effort into your car, don't do a shoty job.

Maybe he wants to keep the VATS system intact as I did, so programming is out. I use mine as part of my car disable system, just so they can't drive it away.

Why pay $35 for it (you should get the dual one unless you kow for sure which one it is), parts to build costs way less.

Here is the passkey bypass diagram:


note: This circuit work fine as-is for most of the early Passkey enabled ECMs, but needs to be changed for some applications. Changing R3 to 1k will get the duty cycle as close to 50% as possible, and changing R2 to 14k will produce 50hz. I've even found that when building two identical circuits, component tollerances can cause one to work while the other doesn't. You really should know the exact frequency that the particular ECM is looking for, and then use component values that will result in that frequency.

note2: For PASS-Key systems (30hz) R2 should be 22-23k ohms. For PASS-KeyII systems (50hz) R2 should be 13-14k ohms.

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 03-25-2007).]

Actually on the pass key systems the key resistor chip is matched to the pass key module only not the PCM and I do not consider this to be a shoty job as it is exactly what the PCM is looking for and gives the extra security that the car can not be started with out the key in the cylinder. I have on may ocassions done this hiding the cylinder either under the hood or up under the dash some where out of sight. Dan

------------------


Signature compliments of F-I-E-R-O
2003 3800SC series II powered
www.photosled.com/showgallery.php/cat/631
www.photosled.com/showgallery/cat/1583

I still cant figure out how mine ran. Ive got an 01 GTP ECM, and I drove it around for weeks with a stock ECM. I dont remember making a pass-key bypass, though its possible I did and forgot, there was a week there when wires were just flying all over the place...

OMG THANK YOU EVERYONE. I just happen to have all these parts laying around my house lol! Im going to build one from the schematic above. I dont think Fieroflyers key idea is shotty either, it works lol. I think it would be nice to have extra security like that. My problem is, i have no idea where my donor car is. I just go the engine and wire harness and computer and someone else got the rest of the car with everything i didnt get off of it. Thank you for the kind words EMC!

LOL I made that circuit.... i failed i guess. Ill sell all the parts if anyone wants them. I think $5 shipped would do it. I think i have the zeener diode backwards or something, but HEY! i got frustrated and just ordered one off the internet. Hope it works.
lol looks like a high school art project...



If it would of worked id of put it into a small box and fill it with resin.
Who needs pc boards lol

quote Originally posted by Chris Hodson: LOL I made that circuit.... i failed i guess. Ill sell all the parts if anyone wants them. I think $5 shipped would do it. I think i have the zeener diode backwards or something, but HEY! i got frustrated and just ordered one off the internet. Hope it works. lol looks like a high school art project... If it would of worked id of put it into a small box and fill it with resin. Who needs pc boards lol

Well for one, a 9v battery would not supply enough power - the circuit is designed to work at 12v+.

A circuit board would have made the whole unit smaller (mine are usually about the size of a .50 coin and only as thick as the chip and the board combined).

I just tapped the ecm wire that goes to pass lock to ground really fast while cranking it, then tucked wire away. dont need to do it again unless you disconnect the battery..

------------------


87 GT
series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft)

tried it lol. Didnt work.

quote Originally posted by jb1: I just tapped the ecm wire that goes to pass lock to ground really fast while cranking it, then tucked wire away. dont need to do it again unless you disconnect the battery..

...now that is a real getto way of doing it (and sloppy if I may say so)...

well i got the bypass thing off ebay. It started and ran. THen the battery died, i replaced the battery witha fresh one and the car wont start now, due to lack of fuel, again.. But still runs great on ether!

- there are no vac leaks.
-Everything else mechanically is hooked up correctly
- Oil pressure switch is hooked to gages but not the fuel pump
-Fuel pump runs off of ignition.


gahhhh i wish this would run lol

my wish came true! The vats thing was working, i dont know how i got power the first time but 3 of my injectors werent getting power. I got power to them and bam! the thing idled fine! Now to work the kinks out! thanks everyone!

[This message has been edited by Chris Hodson (edited 04-25-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: ...now that is a real getto way of doing it (and sloppy if I may say so)...

works , doesnt effect driving doesnt bother me in the least it will have to be changed when I go to the series 2 i am buildin foor it.

------------------


87 GT
series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft)