please tell me i dont have to replace the tranny... i think ill cry...
i get in car, sit down, start car, move shifter, nothing. it makes no difference what gear i try to put it in or anything... its as though im doing nothing. theres no lurch of move ment at all. i DID make sure the shifter cable is hooked up, and it does move when i change gears...
Did you change the filter? Did it fall out of the holder so your pump is sucking air???? (I don't know if its possible really, but since you just changed it....)
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02:02 AM
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
Did you change the filter? Did it fall out of the holder so your pump is sucking air???? (I don't know if its possible really, but since you just changed it....)
didnt touch filter, tranny was brought here from kickhill by Back On Holiday... i had to fix the lines though.. should i try some sort of bleeding method?
yes, we put the T-converter in. did you hook up the trans fluid lines backwards? -guessing at that. and, the only thing else I can think of is that dent in the trans pan. might want to take a pic and post that.
goodluck
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05:33 AM
fierohoho Member
Posts: 3494 From: Corner of No and Where Registered: Apr 2001
Do either of you know the exact condition of this tranny? Like if any internal parts were changed, or if the tranny was in a running car before it was removed and installed in your car? Might want to try this trick that has worked for me in the past. I would put the car in nutral and rev the engine to its yellow line for a few seconds and let the RPMs drop down to. As soon as the RPMs get to idel I would put the car in drive and see if it would move. This has worked some of the times for me in the past, I know nothing of automatics so I will not even try to give you some explination as what is going on when you do that.
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11:56 AM
carnut122 Member
Posts: 9122 From: Waleska, GA, USA Registered: Jan 2004
Yeh- what they said. Is the torque converter attached to the flex-plate and could the filter have fallen out of the valve body(held in with an o-ring and a tang)???
can you physically see that it is in fact moving the linkages and the control points on the tranny when you shift?
have someone watch very carefully where the cables go to the tranny and move from drive to reverse and verify that everything is in fact moving. the arm light be loose and not turning the actually shifting shaft that goes into the tranny.
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04:10 PM
Back On Holiday Member
Posts: 6238 From: Downingtown, PA Registered: Jul 2001
might have to pull the pan and check the filter jerry, it might have come loose in all the moving around i've done with it, and at the same time replace the pan with the other trans you have. the dent in the pan might have something to do with it as I caused that when it slipped out of my hands moving it. it was a good trans when bob of kickhill pulled it, and he's an honest man whos sales depend on his reputation.
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09:39 PM
Jul 21st, 2007
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
ok i went out and swapped the lines, no difference.
BUT i was reading my chiltons and it mentions vaccum stuff, but not where or what it is!! what lines to i need to check, what wires? to me it seems like the tranny is not getting any vaccum...
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04:06 AM
Fierobsessed Member
Posts: 4782 From: Las Vegas, NV Registered: Dec 2001
The 125-C (Fiero transmission) has no vaccum modulator, nor any connection to vaccum anywhere.
It just had a TV cable (hooked up to the throttlebody) and a gear select and a TCC plug (the blue connector) outside of that, its only connection to the car is the flywheel and the axles. Outside of these items, the problem will be internal (fluid, filter, linkage...)
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07:18 AM
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
The lines just go to the end tank on the radiator. That tank is hollow so reversing just switches which end the fluid enters and exits for cooling.
The TV cable controls line pressure and the FSM recommends adjusting it. I have never heard of one being so far out of adjustment that no pressure is produced. It does not cost anything to adjust it though.
As Back on Holiday said, drop the pan, replace the filter, switch to the pan without the dent. Cost is a new filter and gasket and an hour or so under the car. If you use a clean pan to catch the fluid you could even reuse it.
[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 07-21-2007).]
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08:55 AM
frankenfiero1 Member
Posts: 441 From: maryville TN USA Registered: Oct 2006
I'm with hudini, do the filter and the pan swap. If the dent in the pan is near the opening for the filter, the filter is basically clogged in the tranny's eyes. When you check the fluid level while in park and engine running, is the fluid foaming? If it is, it is cavitating the pump because of not enough flow. Since you replaced the tranny with an "Unknown" one, I would pull the pan and filter anyway just to see what is IN the pan and HOW your filter looks. It wouldn't be the first time you got bad parts from someone who thought they were good
------------------ carpe diem
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10:03 AM
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
ok well ill do that, i just called, filter $14.99 gasket $4.99 not bad.. and pan.. the other one is at school but the dent isnt too bad, i think i can carefully reshape it..
huh had a similar proplem witha 65 mustang somehow we got debris in it and it cloged up the valve body so we dropped it off and blew it out with compessed air and it helped then we tore it dorn and really cleand out the valve body but i have not put it back on yet
-- edit-- dont know if that is good or not cause i dont know much about transmissions
[This message has been edited by serealport (edited 07-21-2007).]
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09:45 PM
Back On Holiday Member
Posts: 6238 From: Downingtown, PA Registered: Jul 2001
The new gasket should be included with the filter (check inside the box). Not sure if that varies by application though.
I would use the cheapy gasket (cork) to test out the trans and then re-drop the pan if everything starts to work good, and then use permatex hi-temp gold(orange) to seal it up good, make sure you clean the pan mating surface with something like acetone to clean the oil.
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10:52 PM
Jul 23rd, 2007
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
whew, well at least thats good news.. (bad news being i gotta pull the whole thing out again!) im gonna just take her to school and do it there ( I <3 AAA!) but im still off for another week.. then i can also swap the new brake lines on! YAY! sorta..
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11:36 PM
Jul 29th, 2007
drumwzrd Member
Posts: 236 From: San Mateo,Ca Registered: Aug 2006
Metal paste is fine as it is some what normal wear. Chunks or big particals are not good. Also I have seen them be one pint off and not work. Just some food for thoguht. Good luck getting it moving. Rick
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11:42 PM
Jul 30th, 2007
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
ok well then i propose a question, if the tranny itself is bad, will just one or a few gear not work? shouldnt i feel SOME sort of grabbing? there wasnt enough metal in there for EVERY gear to be trashed... i think i might put the pan + new filter back on tonight.. maybe.. but what on earth could it be? when i move the shifter (when the pan was on) i feel nothing.. just moving of selector..
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04:53 PM
p8ntman442 Member
Posts: 1747 From: portsmouth RI Registered: Sep 2003
Make sure when you shift everything is moving in trans and on cable. I have seen there be broken linkcage or the rod going in the trans. The simplest can be the easiest sometiems. We tend to think disaster first and seek the worst when infact more times than not, a $2.00 part is the problem. Make sure you let us know , good luck. Rick