I decided to chop the top of my notchback
I not very far into the project yet I removed the rear clip and the windshield
I was working on removeing the roof and I have a few sunroof bolts spinning and not coming out that I will have to cut

Any one out there have any photos of their notchback chop besides the stinger?

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WWW.DrivenVisions.com

Hey... You better keep this progress updated with picture's and info of how and what you are doing for poor Fiero owner's that have the skill's but NO$$$ for Mr. Archie....
For people with $$ www.V8Archie.com

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AKA. "SmoothGT"....
Custom Built SHAVED~WIDEBODY~GT!!

I agree, keep the pictures coming....everything you do. All us poor people that have cutting tools would like to see how you do it! Then we may start doing ours.

Want to know how to pull glass?

Here is the tools I use

I ves the air knife in the top ans sides of the glass to cut the urethane from the inside

I use the long blade to cut the lower where the air knife can't reach

you will probably break the windshield
The back glass is tempered you can take that out with out it breaking

Now I have the car stripped to the unibody I can start cutting in a few days

Very cool, thanks for taking a leap and trying this. Hopefully we can all learn alot.

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I hope this link works
(edit)
Link didn't work so I'll post a few pics. I didn't want to, at the risk of hijacking, but these might add something.

I began my choptop by removing everything from the cradle, reinstalling the cradle, and blocking the Fiero up level & sturdy. The "easy body panels were removed, and all of the interior except the headliner & drivers' seat. In my favorite seating position, I measured 3 1/4" headroom to the headliner. Then I removed the seat and flattened the rails and channeled the crossmembers. I reinstalled the seat & measured 4" with stock headliner. I pulled the headliner, and measured 4 1/2" to 4 3/4" space, the amount available with a custom headliner. This figure would vary with different people due to ergonomics. But, it gave me a good idea of how much I could chop the top.

This shows the front cross member channeled, and the 1/8" filler plates welded in to transfer the loads. You can see the penetration outline of the 1/8" bottom plates encircling the general area.

This shows the same, with the flattened seat rail. The perches are flattened, and some material is removed to allow the rail to set flush with the floor. New mounting holes are needed in the floorpan, and they go thru to the underside 1/8" reinforcing plates.

Same rail, aft end.

Reinforcing plate, 1/8" thick, to pick up the loads on the channeled cross members.
Welding underneath, when it's fairly close to the floor is no fun. Welds aren't pretty, but adequate.

All skins are off and the rear window removed. Double checking levels & references, and starting to fabricate the "braces" to prevent inward collapse when the chop is done.

[This message has been edited by opm2000 (edited 01-26-2004).]

It takes you to a log-in page.

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1986 SE 350 V8

OK...this thread caught my attn!

Keep the info a comin Drivin visions! Good Work!

Sorry to hear that, not sure why anyone would do such a thing, buy hey it is your car.
Just make sure you get to the underneath of the car and weld in some support, to make up for what you are removing from the car, ( see your guy, at your local custom shop, he should be able to fill in all the details ) as the way the car sits coming from the factory, WHAT YOU ARE ABOUT TO CUT OFF, IS PART OF THE STRUCTUAL DESIGN OF THE CAR, AND IF YOUR ARE GOING TO REMOVE, THEN YOU WILL CHANGE THE PHYSICAL STRESS LOAD OF WHAT YOU HAVE LEFT. I mean sure you can do it, but without replacing some of the stiffness, you will be changing the handling of the car,

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FIEROS ARE JUST STREET LEGAL RACING GO KARTS - IT'S ALL GOOD

This is very impressive.. It makes installing t-tops look like child's play. I think lowering the seats is mandatory when doing a chop, but I'm not sure if that's included in Archie's price?

Anyway, this looks like too big a job for me so you have my admiration and respect.

Thanks for the photos of the seat "lowering" I plan on doing the same to get some head room back

I pulled the dash and door weather strips along with the weather strip retainers today and studied the structure

I am going to cut 3 inches out of the "B" piller
Change the windshield angle and the result will be a roof that is too long
Since I have a sunroof I have to options shorten the roof by making the sunroof smaller or section the roof behiend the sunroof
If I make the sunroof smaller the work needed on the structure will be more simple but the problem would be getting a smller piece of glass for the sunroof
I could resolve this by making a fiberglass replacement and painting it to match the color of the car
At this time I think I am going to go for the 2nd option
See how narrow the structure is on the sides of the roof

I will have to do some structure cutting and welding in the windshield post area so I can change the angle

When I shorten the "B" Piller I am going to cut the inner and outer panels at diffrent places to I can lap weld for more strength
I want to cut the inner panel high so I do not change the seatbelt mount position

As long as the welds have sleeves and laped properly the vehicle strength will remain

The other problem is trying to decide what color to paint it

I hope this is one of those threads that goes for 10 pages! I could read this kinda thing for hours.

quote Originally posted by Driven Visions: I have to options shorten the roof by making the sunroof smaller or section the roof behiend the sunroof

I'd agree on making the top-shortening cut at the juncture of the sunroof-edges and the remainder of the roof. Since the two cuts above & below the front windshield will move the side window backwards, you will be effectively losing some of that back section of the window. That is assuming you don't move the B pillar back also, and I dont think anyone wants to do that.

From eyeballing the cuts & geometry resulting, I'd agree the easiest thing is to loose the sunroof. You'd also loose the anoying source of a major water leak in many Fieros, as well.

bump

quote Originally posted by jscott1: This is very impressive.. It makes installing t-tops look like child's play. I think lowering the seats is mandatory when doing a chop, but I'm not sure if that's included in Archie's price? Anyway, this looks like too big a job for me so you have my admiration and respect.

Everything is included in Archie's price.

This should be an interesting thread.

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86 GT -- All Options except Performance Sound

Come on...where's the update. I'm pulling out my hair with anxiousness (not literally)

:EDIT: hey...I just hit post 383...now how do I turn that into a stroker?

[This message has been edited by 84se-Stock (edited 02-17-2004).]

{chanting]More more more more more more more more more more more more[/chanting]

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Ok here is more
I decided to leave my sunroof fully intact
With the design of the Fiero unibody you CAN cut the top free with the doors open and it will not sag
I drilled out a ton of spot welds and removed the rear inner structure just above the seat belt mounts
then I cut the seam where the B piller meets the rood steel then I cut the B piller 2 3/4 inches shorter

Then I pulled the B pillers in just over an inch and mounted my rear header back in 2 3/4 inches lower then it was before

then I cut a notch where the windshield meets the cowl so I can lean the windshield back
I also straigntened the angle where the windshield post meets the roof
Now what do you think

I am trying to keep moving on this project but making scoops shaving handles and the 50 other things I have going on is slowing down this project
I still cant decide what color I want to paint it

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WWW.DrivenVisions.com

it almost seems too simple.

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- Why you stuck up, half-witted, scruffy looking, NERF HERDER!!!
- Who's scruffy lookin'?

Arty: a.k.a. FestYboy or Fieroman87
'87 GT 5 spd.
'88 Festiva 5 spd.
AIM & yahoo messanger: AMAbonus

quote Originally posted by Driven Visions: I am trying to keep moving on this project but making scoops shaving handles and the 50 other things I have going on is slowing down this project I still cant decide what color I want to paint it

Wow man,

A + for you, you have definately got it going on. QUESTION - what are you going to use for side and rear glass? I tried e-mailing Archie about buying some of his glass because I was going to lay my windshield back some, but he never replied.

Thanks,

--Will

Bump.

quote QUESTION - what are you going to use for side and rear glass? I tried e-mailing Archie about buying some of his glass because I was going to lay my windshield back some, but he never replied.

There's a post over at Lambo Lounge concerning glass. It seems AGP sells OEM and cut glass. Maybe they can cut the Fiero glass for you prior to tempering. Or they may have something better suited.

http://www.lambolounge.com/Body/Glass/glass.asp

quote Originally posted by fieroman87: it almost seems too simple.

That is what I was thinking... I cant wait to see the end result!!

One question about the window glass...

Because you're moving the top of the B pillar inward, the angle of the window glass now needs to lean farther inward to seal properly. How is this accomplished?

Roy

quote Originally posted by Driven Visions: With the design of the Fiero unibody you CAN cut the top free with the doors open and it will not sag

Wow - That's quite a gutsy assumption - I hope it's quite successful for you! (not bashing - just curious)

I have personally seen a "roadster" Fiero (FOCOA Nat'ls Indy, 1996) that was a home-built deal. The owner simply cut off the roof and b-pillars... and it sagged severly in the middle. There must've been nearly 3/4" gap at the bottom of the doors, and the top of the doors were pinched together. Hopefully it was something that occurred over a period of time - as I'd really like to see your car completed! It'll be interesting have 2 choptop Fieros in the Minneapolis area

Keep the updates coming!

BTW: Are you at all interested in joining some other forum members for a get-together this Saturday? I'm sure there are a number of us that would like to meet you in person! https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/037930.html

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Looking for Fiero posters?

[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 02-19-2004).]

*bump*

Who else has a chopped Fiero in Minnesota?

quote Originally posted by Driven Visions: Who else has a chopped Fiero in Minnesota?

Hehe... the Stinger is here in Minnesota now! (Eden Prairie to be specific)
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/038285.html

That's Jeff - the new MFF president sitting in there

Are you going to be available on Saturday? We'd love for you to join us!

quote Originally posted by mrfixit58: One question about the window glass... Because you're moving the top of the B pillar inward, the angle of the window glass now needs to lean farther inward to seal properly. How is this accomplished? Roy

Anyone?

quote Originally posted by mrfixit58: Anyone?

I believe the window that Archie uses in his conversions are custom-shaped vaccum-formed lexan (or plexi)... so they're basically made for the application.

There is some research underway to try and find/make glass windows instead: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/033921.html

If I had the time I would come out and play Saturday just too busy

As far as glass goes I am tooling for Lexan side windows real glass it too expansive for this project
The rear glass I am making from Laminated glass

I will keep posting as my progress continues

Is the laminated glass safe..??

quote D V I cut a notch where the windshield meets the cowl so I can lean the windshield back. I also straigntened the angle where the windshield post meets the roof.

How about a photo of the modded A pillars?

quote Originally posted by mrfixit58: One question about the window glass... Because you're moving the top of the B pillar inward, the angle of the window glass now needs to lean farther inward to seal properly. How is this accomplished? Roy

Roy, from looking at Archie's chop top I believe that the newly formed lexan window has a slightly more curved profile to engage the rubber and seal properly. I also recall Archie saying that the wondows on the Stinger eventually "trained" themselves to seal at the proper angle. Either way, I don't think chop top windows are ever going to seal as nicely as OEM, but that's part of the price to pay for the chop top look.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Roy, from looking at Archie's chop top I believe that the newly formed lexan window has a slightly more curved profile to engage the rubber and seal properly. I also recall Archie saying that the wondows on the Stinger eventually "trained" themselves to seal at the proper angle. Either way, I don't think chop top windows are ever going to seal as nicely as OEM, but that's part of the price to pay for the chop top look.

Yes, But it's a lot more curved profile.

Yes, however when the windows are "trained" they can seal as good as stock.

Archie

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quote Originally posted by Archie: Yes, however when the windows are "trained" they can seal as good as stock. Archie

how long does it take for that to happen...?

"Then I pulled the B pillers in just over an inch"

what exactly do you mean pulled?
do you mean you pulled them inward towards each other? just wondering as to why you have to do that...
someone tell me if i dont get it.

Thanks for the replys everyone. Now the next question...

How does a home DIY person go about building, making, or ordering side windows that will fit?

Archie, will you sell them to the general public if we're will and able to perform the mechanical part of the chop-top?

<bump>

-Roy

Here's a copy of what I posted about side windows in another thead. I used 1/4" thickness
but I think that 3/16" would also work. The part of the window below the opening can be
curved as needed to push the lexan closer at the top by heating with a heat gun and bending
over the edge of a table.

"For my doors I'm using lexan formed for the '82 - '88 F body cars. Available from Summit
Racing, they have about exactly the right curves in the vertical and horizontal planes and have
enough height vertically to fit the pattern for a 3" chop top; won't work to replace a stock
window, though. Nice thing is that they have a surface coating that's supposed to be almost as
hard as glass. My windshield is from a '90 Buick."

Orville