Here's a hndy dandy way to remove control arm bushings

First I used a chunk of old pipe connector I had laying around.



Its 2 1/4 ID and 2 3/4 long. I then tack welded a chunk of sturdy plate to one end

I slip the open end of the pipe connector over the large end of the bushing to be removed and hook a C=clamp over the whole thing with the threaded end of the clamp at the small end of the bushing like so.



Next I start applying the heat to the outside sleeve of the bushing and as it heats up slowly start tightening the clamp a little at a time to keep pressure on the bushing. When the bushing sleeve is hot enough I just tighten the clamp all the way and the bushing easily pushes into the big pipe connector thing.





Leaving the bushing sleeve very nice and clean



The bushing itself hardly distorts at all



So there is very little smell and smoke. I have used this method to successfully remove the front cradle bushings too! Hope some of you guys find this useful too

Dave

i do i dont want to pay 25 bucks evey time i need one removed big thanks from me

HEY thats awesome points for you!
i deff needed this info
bookmarked for when i have to remove bushings
just thinking i could probably even use a balljoint press to do the same thing!

[This message has been edited by antinull.com (edited 01-05-2008).]

great idea !

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kudos...smart idea....tim

Nice tip. + for you!

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David
2 Corinthians 5: 17
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT, 5 Speed
2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

That is a great tip... Question though.. Why are you removing the Poly bushing? lol

He didn't actually remove the poly, look again at what he removed. It appears to me that he was just using it as an example for the pictures.

I see what you are saying, but look closer.. Rubber bushings don't have the flange that is shown on the bottom of that bushing in the last pic.

Also, the top "corner" of the bushings shows some red flecks, as if the burnt area has been knocked away..

The red plastic face of the C-clamp looks like the red of the polys. I think that's what you see. maybe>>>?

Looks great. I did something similar w/ allthread a couple months ago. But I did it outside. My bushings started burning like a candle! I had to douse them.

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"A guy know's he's in love when he loses interest in his car for a few days." -Tim Allen

quote Originally posted by Fierology: The red plastic face of the C-clamp looks like the red of the polys. I think that's what you see. maybe>>>? Looks great. I did something similar w/ allthread a couple months ago. But I did it outside. My bushings started burning like a candle! I had to douse them.

yep thats the plastic face of the C-clamp and those were the old rubber bushings. If you check autozone they show the rubber bushing as having a flange

Dave

When I did this, I never needed to use the clamp - the bushings popped out on thier own when the arm was heated.

lol sure tim sure....what color is the sky in your world....hehehe...

I just use a propane torch to heat the metal spacer in the middle of the bushing once it is hot enough I push it out with a screw driver. Once the meat spacer is out the rubber part comes out with very little effort. I don't heat to arms at all, just the middle of the bushing.

Joe Sokol

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85 SE Daily driver with a 3.4 DOHC build underway
88 Formula/GT 4.9 Allante Intake (My Baby)

quote Originally posted by thismanyfieros: lol sure tim sure....what color is the sky in your world....hehehe...

try it and see, I have, Givi did (he was the one to tell me), and many other people have (here is one instance - the 'search' functions brings up many): https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050818-2-059523.html

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 01-08-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: When I did this, I never needed to use the clamp - the bushings popped out on thier own when the arm was heated.

Yes, this works like a charm. I just position the flame of the propane torch to the outer sleeve and let it cook. The rubber boils around the outer edge making it slippery and the compression of the bushing causes it to pop right out. The biggest issue is making sure the flaming bushing does not set the shop on fire when it pops out.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 01-08-2008).]

I have since refined my technique. I just drilled a 1/2 inch hole through the end plate of my handy dandy pipe connector. slip a 6 inch length of threaded 3/8 rod through both the bushing and the plate with washers and nuts at each end. Apply the heat like before and just tighten the nuts. Very easy, very clean, little smoke, little smell. No need to light them up and run like hell.

Dave

I must have not been living right. I tried something similar with a 2 ton jack press and all I got wast the inner sleeve and very little rubber.