I figured I would document the fixer-upper I just bought last weekend. The guy gave me a hell of a deal, so no complaints here...
EDIT! - I must say, I'm not changing my text here - only adding that my opinion of this "deal" has changed greatly after digging into the car. Yes, it is a fixer-upper! Be sure to read through the pages of this thread to see the fun I have encountered. For starters, Yons did not include the engine he said was in there. Read on...



Yes, she doesn't look to bad.

The good:
Only 5 miles on the new 330hp/385tq crate engine - a nice clean install

V8 Archie Kit
4-core Radiator (from a Nova, I believe)
4-speed Manual (corrected - it's not a 5-speed )
New poly on suspension and cradle (rubber on trans mounts )
Lambo doors
Nice rims
Powder coated/Por-15 underneath - almost everywhere

(edited to add Cliff's Vbook feature and correct the trans)

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 11-09-2006).]

Either that's a used carb or it's had a fire or something. Those venturies are awfully black for a 5 mile engine.

Looks like a fun one to fix up, though.

fixer upper?

Needs work:
Lambo doors - they hang up on the body panels and one of the hinge welds broke

Tail lights and signals don't work
Radio not hooked up, but a Pontiac CD deck is in there
On/off switch for the fuel pump (I'm trying to find out why - maybe it's because the fuel pump stays on even without the key)
Brakes don't work
E-brake needs a part
Tires are dry-rotted
Trim is missing (easy enough to find)
Intake manifold has a leak just below the distributor
No headlight bulbs
Paint could be better. I could live without the black hood, but the black decklid looks nice
Low profile air filter won't fit with the trunk closed
Interior needs most everything replaced or painted

By the way, she sounds MEAN when she runs! JakeDragon - I'm not so jealous of your engine any more - Ha! I don't think the neighbors are too happy, though - especially the guy in front of me who treated himself to a C5 Vette. We will be meeting at the track - wahoo! See 1MohrFiero? I can't stop!

Anyway, I'll stick a few thing here about the car as I go along - if anyone cares. I just want to document this for myself and the local guys like "Doc-" that help me out - and you guys who always have good advice for me on Pennock's.



(edited to add Cliff's Vbook feature)

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 09-10-2006).]

I am so jealous

quote Originally posted by The ROK:I am so jealous

Yeah, Man - but there is WORK to do!

When I got the car home last weekend to find some of the grease from the CV boot had leaked out of a small pin-hole during the 6-hour tow home. There were only a few miles on that axle, so I bought a new boot.

By the way, A-1 Axles ( http://www.a1driveshaft.com/specials.html ) has a special on axles - only $39 with no core needed!
EDIT! - A-1 Axles says the ad is wrong and rear-drive axles are not in the special. They are actually $80 plus shipping - bastards...

So it begins...

I already knew that the car needed the starter aligned because the previous owner had a leak where the remote oil lines connect to the engine (behind the starter). I got under there this morning and got the starter lined up and it worked fine, but there was no fuel! It would only start if I poured gas in the carb.

I started by checking the fuses - all good. Then I traded the A/C and fuel pump relays, but it made no difference. Then I pulled the center console to run 12V to the fuel pump "G" pin and found a surprise. There is an on/off switch right beside it. When I turned it on, the fuel pump ran - regardless of whether the key was on or not. The car wouldn't start with it on until I put some more gas in the carb, then it finally stayed on - and what a beautiful sound! When I started it later this evening, it started without pouring fuel in the carb.

I wonder if the switch is there because the fuel pump would not shut off or something. If so, do any of you know what causes the fuel pump to stay on? Is it the relay?

Anyway, after letting it warm up, I noticed that there is a pressure relief connecter just under the rear radiator cap - just like the one that leads to the overflow tank in the front - but no hose. I don't think I need this, so I guess I should block it off for now. I just hooked up an old overflow tank there for now. It actually fits nicely over the electric water pump since the battery has been moved to the trunk.

After all this, I got back under the car to find oil dripping from the starter. I assumed it was coming from the remote oil connectors that Archie warns us about on his V8 install video, but after searching, I saw that the leak came from much higher. It was the back of the intake manifold just below the distributor. There is not enough sealant there to keep the oil from spraying out. I wonder now if the previous owner took the starter off thinking it was the oil connections that were leaking.

"Doc-" stopped by to take a shift cable off my t-top and we started the V8 up again and went for a short spin. It was dark, so we were only going to go 100yds down the driveway and then back (because the car came without headlight bulbs). Well, we got to the downward slope at the end of the driveway and I found out the hard way that the brakes were gone. We got lucky that no cars were coming and I swung her around and zoomed back up the driveway before I could get into more trouble.

So, it's time to get a larger Alan wrench to try to tighten down the intake manifold - or replace the gasket.

Well, enough for tonight. Now that I have two V8 Fieros, I don't think I can ever go back to a v6.

Another nice thing about this car - my wife really likes it, which is VERY odd.

More to come.

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 11-09-2006).]

So new axles were just too easy after all. Sometimes time is the most prescious commodity of all. She looks pretty good Andrew. Chances are the old owner did not support the axles during the install and that caused the boot damage.

I saw the advertisment for a new AF band functional the other day.

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[This message has been edited by 1MohrFiero (edited 09-10-2006).]

quote Originally posted by 1MohrFiero:So new axles were just too easy after all. Sometimes time is the most prescious commodity of all. She looks pretty good Andrew. Chances are the old owner did not support the axles during the install and that caused the boot damage. I saw the advertisment for a new AF band functional the other day.

So - are you ready for some Pentagon time? That job would be cake after what you have seen. You could get some DC face-time and become the next CMSAF!

There is just one problem. The closest I come to playing a musical instrument is when I turn on the radio!

You'd be bored dealing with musicians anyway, Dwayne...

Back to the car. I went to Advance Auto and bought new tail bulbs, but they do not fit. Do any of you know if Fieros used different bulbs for different years? I don't even know if my lenses are from a different year that the rest of the car (1986). I'd appreciate any help there.

I want to take off the wheels to bleed the brakes, but the lug nuts use what looks like a Torx fitting, but my T-55 is too small and my T-60 is too big. Now what? It may take a special tool, but where do I find something like that? Jeez! I'm still waiting from "Yons" to find answers to several questions about the car.

I put on a few pieces of trim and cleared all the extra parts out of the trunk. I am still in need of the end molding (smooth) at the very front of each side of the car. I thought I had some, but I must have given them away when I sold the body panels from the T-top.

I also bought halogen bulbs for the car, but I am missing all the parts that hold the headlight onto the headlight cage. This (again) is not my lucky day. Each repair seems to be halted somehow. No brakes, I can't drive it. No tail lights, I can't drive it. No headlights, I have to have it in before dusk... I know -- Whaaaah.

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 09-14-2006).]

You sure there's a 5th gear?

No 5th gear. It's a 4-speed.

Thanks for bringing that up. I corrected the first post.

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 09-13-2006).]

in a stock Fiero the ECM controls the fuel pump "prime" time. with the v8 install the stock ecm most likely went in the trash. you won't need it with a carb anyway, but it is nice to have a dash switch to the pump just to fill the fuel bowls when the car hasn't been driven for a wile.

looks like a nice project.

Russ

quote Originally posted by Russ544:in a stock Fiero the ECM controls the fuel pump "prime" time. with the v8 install the stock ecm most likely went in the trash. you won't need it with a carb anyway, but it is nice to have a dash switch to the pump just to fill the fuel bowls when the car hasn't been driven for a wile. looks like a nice project. Russ

Thanks, Russ. I see the ECM in there and I think it still controls some of the electronics, but I am not sure. It is possible that the fuel pump shuts off normally while the engine is running, but the engine is so loud, I'd have no way of knowing! Ha! (I think the fuel pump shuts off - or are they supposed to?)

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 09-14-2006).]

The fuels pump runs when the engine is running. The ECM may be bad (not telling the fuel pump to run) and might be the reason for the fuel pump switch.

The way I would fix that is to use a relay that closes when the ignition is ON (energizing the fuel pump), and get a fuel pressure switch to turn the pump off at a certain pressure (carbs use like 3 - 6 PSI???, have it turn off at 10 - 15 PSI). Also, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be a good idea. Find out what fuel pressure your carb is designed to run at and adjust your pressures parameters accordingly.

By the way, cool project!

[This message has been edited by John Boelte (edited 09-13-2006).]

OMG when I first saw the top pic I thought it was my old car till I noticed it was a fastback. Mine was the same color 85GT. Nice find.

Yons got the car with a bad v6 from doug at www.fierowarehouse.com if you want more history on the car.


just curious if you'd let us know approx what you got it for? Yons is a character do deal with...

matthew

quote Originally posted by m0sh_man:Yons got the car with a bad v6 from doug at www.fierowarehouse.com if you want more history on the car. just curious if you'd let us know approx what you got it for? Yons is a character do deal with...matthew

Yes, Mosh-man, Yons was fun to deal with. I am trying to get some answers to a long list of questions, but he must be busy. I can't even take off the wheels because the lug nuts all use some type of Torx fitting, but T-55 is too small and T-60 is too big. If Yons doesn't get back to me, I'll have to spot weld a wrench to them to get them off and replace them all.

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 09-14-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Saxman: my wife really likes it, which is VERY odd.

When my wife started liking my fiero addiction, I found out she had a boyfriend.

But you have a V8 fiero.....sounds like a better trade off than I got
good luck

quote Originally posted by UDLOSE:When my wife started liking my fiero addiction, I found out she had a boyfriend. But you have a V8 fiero.....sounds like a better trade off than I got good luck

Ha! (he who laughs is the last to know?)

She can't handle this one (the car, that is). After she heard it, she decided that she doesn't need to drive it, but would like to be chauffeured around in it...

My fuel pump is setup to come on with the key, I have a switch so I can turn it off and still run the electric water pump. I will be replacing my hand switch with an oil pressure switch or add one in line so the fuel dosent come on untill the oil pressure is over 15psi. The carb will have more than enough fuel to start the car and I will probably hook up a bypass switch in the back just incase.

Gratz on the car, now upload a sound file so we can hear it

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Click here to hear my cars

Saxman what are your plans for it once u fix the problems ?

quote Originally posted by Saxman:I started by checking the fuses - all good. Then I traded the A/C and fuel pump relays, but it made no difference. Then I pulled the center console to run 12V to the fuel pump "G" pin and found a surprise. There is an on/off switch right beside it. When I turned it on, the fuel pump ran - regardless of whether the key was on or not. The car wouldn't start with it on until I put some more gas in the carb, then it finally stayed on - and what a beautiful sound! When I started it later this evening, it started without pouring fuel in the carb. I wonder if the switch is there because the fuel pump would not shut off or something. If so, do any of you know what causes the fuel pump to stay on? Is it the relay?

Sounds like the switch works as an anti-theft device, though it seems a little difficult to access. Maybe you ought to consider moving it somewhere to suit your tastes.

quote Originally posted by WAWUZAT:Sounds like the switch works as an anti-theft device, though it seems a little difficult to access. Maybe you ought to consider moving it somewhere to suit your tastes.

That's what I figure - and what Yons said. I guess the hazard of leaving it on by accident is worth the safety of preventing theft. (Except that now everyone knows I have it!)

Exoticse - I plan to drive it to work once or twice a week and run it at the track as much as my wife allows. I have an extra 4-speed in the garage just in case. I'll be towing it to the track since I am sure I will go through lots of transmissions.

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 09-14-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Saxman: Check it out by hitting the booktext link at the top of the thread. Thanks Cliff![/booktext]

what are you talking about?

If you hit "Vbook" at the top of this thread, you can see a version of the thad ready to print with just the relevant stuff showing. Cliff added it not long ago.

It's great for printing if the thread author does it correctly.

can you repeat how you removed the lug nuts i have the same type and have no key for them.
what are you doing with the 1/2 extension
thanks joe

It's all at https://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/fiero/pdaShowThread.cgi?forum=2&thread=076817 if you want the details. In short - the 1/2 inch ratchet extension fits in like it was made for it.

Well, I started bleeding the brakes and the rear driver's side bleeder valve was leaking no matter how far I tightened it, so I went to buy a new one. The new one leaked even worse! I took off the caliper to look down inside to see that the hole for the bleeder goes all the way through! Here is what I put on my "Brake Bleeder Valve Leak" thread:

quote Originally posted by Saxman:I just bought a new brake bleeder screw for the rear passenger bleeder on an 86GT, but fluid is still coming out the top of it (not the sides where the threads are). I replaced it because the brakes were not working on this car I just bought. Any idea why tightening it does not help? It's leaking worse that it did before I replaced the valve. Thanks for the help!

Well, I found the problem. The last owner had the bleeder screw and brake line input switched. I guess I'd better check them all. Wow!

quote Originally posted by Saxman: Yes, Mosh-man, Yons was fun to deal with. I am trying to get some answers to a long list of questions, but he must be busy. I can't even take off the wheels because the lug nuts all use some type of Torx fitting, but T-55 is too small and T-60 is too big. If Yons doesn't get back to me, I'll have to spot weld a wrench to them to get them off and replace them all.

Try sliding a socket over them, a 17mm if I recall the ones I ran into the other day on a twin turbo 2005 GTO. Then you can take the lugnut to any tire shop and get a socket for about 8-10 bucks if it's what I think you have. It's not Torx... it's a spline drive they use on 'tuner lugs'. the socket will be about 3-4 inches deep. We were fighting the one we had in since I had to replace the struts/shocks and springs and didn't have the socket. After failing to remove one with my wheel lock removal kit I slid a regular 6 point impact socket on thinking I was going to have to beat one on to get a nut off to figure out what it was... and the socket fit right on Then I got the correct socket. I wrapped the new socket on the outside with some masking tape to keep from marring the rims.

Hope this helps.

Scott

quote Originally posted by Scott-Wa:Normally it's right rear, left rear, right front, left front for order to bleed. Don't pump the brakes... just have someone press down quasi firmly (not hard) "Down!" as you crack the bleeder. When fluid stops flowing out tighten and have them slowly let up "Up!". Repeat until no bubbles coming out with fluid. If you pump the brakes in an attempt to get pedal, your just aerating the fluid. Gravity bleeding may work also... just crack the line you want to bleed enough that fluid oozes out, put a coffee can under where it drips and walk away. Check the master cylinder to ensure it's not going to go dry and let gravity do the work. A few minutes per wheel and your done, just close the bleeder and go to the next, then check for pedal when done. I usually do this method and have someone push the pedal only if it doesn't work. Other hint... clean out the master cylinder of old fluid and gunk as much as possible prior to bleeding, top it off with fresh brake fluid from an unopened container and close the container tightly if you aren't pouring it in. Brake fluid is extremely hydroscopic and will ruin itself in very short order with exposure to just the moisture in the air. Good luck!

Thanks, Scott-Wa. I went ahead and did it that way (passenger rear first) a few minutes ago, so I'm glad to see you backed me up on it. I still have to do the front before I take her for a ride. I changed the rims and tires, so she will be ready for the road (minus the fixed CV boot) tomorrow. Then I'll get to work on the CV boot.

This forum rules! Thanks everyone! - and Cliff!

(edited to add that the brakes turned out to still be bad. See page 2)

[This message has been edited by Saxman (edited 09-17-2006).]

Well, I got all the brakes bled tonight and put on a set of America Racing wheels and some Kuhmo tires. They are a bit smaller overall, but the tires that were on this car were dry rotted and one of them had a leak. Here is a shot of PF (Purple Fiero) in the garage after today's repairs.



The paint is not scratched like it seems in teh photo. It's garage lights that do that to the pic. Here is a better shot of the wheels.



Now that the brake line and bleeder valve are in the correct position, I wonder how it could have been driven at all. I don't see how it could have since there was no way to build up pressure. I wonder if it had even been driven after all the engine and suspension work was done. I better be careful from here on out.

I still have not had a chance to see why regular tail light bulbs will not fit in the rear. I guess that is next - along with finding the headlight hardware that holds the headlight in place. All I have is the black plastic frame that hold the headlight...

When you say the rear tailight bulbs don't fit, do you mean the bulb is too big to fit into the hole of the tailight or that the bulb itself will no fit into the electrical socket? Just found this thread, and now has me motorvated to get mine working again!

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1988 Purple Fiero GTw/SC3800 conversion
Best ET with 3.0 pulley,XPHOT cam, SS I/C and 105lb Valve springs: 12.38@110mph
Best 60 Foot ever: 1.699

quote Originally posted by SOULCRUSHER:When you say the rear tailight bulbs don't fit, do you mean the bulb is too big to fit into the hole of the tailight or that the bulb itself will no fit into the electrical socket? Just found this thread, and now has me motorvated to get mine working again!

Hey, SOULCRUSHER!

I can't get the stock bulbs to turn after they go in because the little alignment tabs are uneven on the bulbs, but they are at the same height in the bottom of my plugs. I don't think they should be level because the correct bulb does not have level tabs. I will look at the ones on my other car later today to see what's going on.

I posted another thread at https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/076764.html but didn't find out much there so far. Are your tail lights out?