I'm going to try to install a triple gauge pod in my a-pillar. I thought since there aren't any build threads, that I'd try to get something together to help people in the future.

websites used:
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/

I started by searching the forum and found that there aren't any triple pods available for the Fiero (the Fiero Store sells single and dual pods). Then I found that the Acura 90-93 model a-pillar pods are a good fit and since I ordered my gauges from glowshift I'd go ahead and order the Acura 90-93 single + dual pillar pods.

I started by test fitting the pods on my spare a-pillar and trimming them down with a cut-off tool (sorry for the bad pict). I used the installed a-pillar to gauge where to place the lowest pod so that it wasn't too high and then I'd trim it as necessary and re-fit.


There is still a gap at the lowest point - I may come back and level this down some.


Trimming is needed on the lowest pod if you want to fit all 3 on the pillar.


Once I got the pods placed where I wanted them, I held them in place and using a pencil, I marked three places where the holes for wires could be cut.


Hole Cutter


Holes after cut




Mind the clips on the back. My pillar had one clip already broken so I didn't care if I cut through it.


I sanded the edges and the insides of the pods then got the plastic weld (AutoZone).


I mixed the plastic weld and used a brush to apply the weld to the pods. I put the pods in place then used C-clamps to hold them. I'm not sure how well this is going to hold - will let you know.


I'm currently waiting for the weld to dry and then I'll test the weld and probably start filling in and trimming up gaps/edges. More pictures to come!

Interesting, are you planning on painting it all gray?

Steve

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Where will the road take you today?

Some helpful links I've done
How to remove inner door panels, with pics.
How to remove outer door panels, with pics.
How to make rear coil-overs using factory struts, with pics.
How to remove rear bearing hubs, with pics.
How to modify the stock Fiero radio for MP3 players, with pics.
How to come up with the right coolant hoses for that engine swap...With Pics.
Basic Fiero electrical testing "How To" and equipment...with pics.

quote Originally posted by fierohoho: Interesting, are you planning on painting it all gray? Steve

Yes, I already painted the interior with a spray-dye. It matches extremely well (purchased from eastwood.com). I painted the door panels, pillars, and floor trim - so the only piece not painted was the dash. Now I just need to fill, trim, and sand then I can repaint it with my existing paint. I can get the paint number if you're interested.

Nice work but I have a question. Since the back of the mounted pod only allows for a small hole; how do you intend to hold the gauges in the pod?

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Im going to be mounting my dual gauge pod in the summer, and I found that if I took the big thick elastic bands and put them on the back part of the gauge after already sliding the gauge in the pod, it is enough to hold the gauge in place. You might want to try that.

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quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Nice work but I have a question. Since the back of the mounted pod only allows for a small hole; how do you intend to hold the gauges in the pod?

I've given that little thought. My initial attempt will involve lightly applying silicone around the lip of the gauge and then sliding it in. Of course, I will also be using the hoods, so I will be able to attach the gauge to the hood, then the hood to the pod - all with silicone. That way I'm not locked into however I decide to install it. Also, I guess I could fill some of the inside with silicone because I've got enough of it. Still, I'm open to suggestions.

quote Originally posted by grsychckn: I've given that little thought. My initial attempt will involve lightly applying silicone around the lip of the gauge and then sliding it in. Of course, I will also be using the hoods, so I will be able to attach the gauge to the hood, then the hood to the pod - all with silicone. That way I'm not locked into however I decide to install it. Also, I guess I could fill some of the inside with silicone because I've got enough of it. Still, I'm open to suggestions.

Holding the gauges in place w silicone should work but if you need to change the bulbs in the gauges down the road, you could end up cracking the pods when you try to get the gauges out. You can try cutting the access holes in the back larger with a Dremel and that should allow getting the mounting bracket in there but the bulbs will still be hard to access.
Perhaps a small amount of silicone might work best. In any case the pods look excellent. I would have done mine this way but I find the gauges end up too far to the left for my taste. Instead I have three black Autometer gauge cups on the left side of the speedometer console; not as good looking as your gauge pod but more practical for my setup.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Elastic bands work wonders....

My guages just slid into place and was a nice tight fit. The pod held them in.

Also to late, but the drilled holes sure are large. it is just wires going through there.

What guages are you useing there?

quote Originally posted by revin: My guages just slid into place and was a nice tight fit. The pod held them in. Also to late, but the drilled holes sure are large. it is just wires going through there. What guages are you useing there?

My gauges too fit in nice and snug - which is why I think I'll dab just a bit of silicone on the inside to keep them from twisting too much. I might also try the rubber band trick, but I'm not sure how far up the gauge I can get it from the holes I have on the back. I'm using glowshift gauges (tinted 7 series). Boost, Fuel Pressure, and WB Air/Fuel (bottom to top on the A-Pillar). Today I hope to get some pictures of the wiring and then if I'm lucky, shots of them in action.

To get the rubber bands around the backside you have to do a little maneuvering... just get clever and use some screw drivers or whatever you have on hand to get inside the small hole and stretch the rubber band apart. Then just use the screw drivers to push the rubber band down towards the face of the gauge, just make sure you use the big thick ones that grocery stores usually use for broccoli and that sort of produce. It will probably take a coupld tries, but you'll eventually get it. At least it doesnt involve any sticky stuff, and is easily removable.

Looks good!

I have had a 2 guage pod setup in my Fiero for 5+ years now. The pods hold the guages snug enough to keep them in place, but not too snug when they do have to come out. I used stainless steel button heads and bolted the pod to the a-pillar trim.

Ok, I got the a-pillar back in. I experimented with rubber bands and silicone, but I think I may be able to just fix the hoods with something sticky, then adjust the gauges as needed. I almost finished, but realized that I didn't have enough electrical connectors to finish the wiring so hopefully I'll have it finished tomorrow. The spec in the picture appears to be a shadow from the windsheild when the camera flashed.

Great installation! My $.02, but I had used velcro to hold a guage set in on an old Mustang. I never had to replace the lights, but if I did, all I had to do was pull them out. The velcro held them in place nicely. I wrappen the guage in one side, and lined the inside of the pod with the other side of the velcro.

[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 03-29-2009).]

Ok, I haven't gotten the gauges exactly where I want them and it looks like the boost gauge is not reading anything so I'll have to debug that, but here's a video of them in action:

http://www.grsychckn.com/Fi...llar/a_pillar_23.avi

Also, I wanted to post a picture of my wiring (not that it's anything special). Instead of running a switched +12V source to each gauge, I soldered the switch and power together at the gauge then I used a fuse block to distribute the power to the 3 gauges (3 amp fuse on each block). I aslo installed a 30 amp relay connected to the + of the battery and the +12V source of the radio so I can have 6 total ignition switched power outlets if I want. I have been using a manual switch for the intercooler but I may decide to move it also to this system and elminate some wires.