Is the fiero fuel tank replaceable? If so where can I buy it?Looks like I might have to go to the wrecking yard...

It sure is 84 thru 86 are the same and 87 and 88 are the same.
Be sure to get the straps and attaching bolts, you may not need them but others might!
Check the fuel tank hoses as well, no longer available.

Replacing the fuel tank was a total PITA for a dunce like me. Of course I did it the hard way and spilled fuel all over the garage. The dangers from five gallons of gas on the floor aside, the odor was enough to gag a maggot. I bought a good tank from another PFF member and used my fuel gauge sender. I replaced the fuel pump while it was out and rebuilt the wirewound resistor on the sending unit. "Rebuilt" is a misnomer because I had to soak it in carburetor cleaner to get the gunk loose and then I could begin to rebuild it. I found a great thread here that showed how to do the rebuild. Unfortunately, my resistor was broken near the brass brad that connects to the lead for the gas gauge. I soldered it with a 300 watt soldering iron and it still works.

My fuel line, return line and vent were full of the laquer gunk that builds up over a long time. To clean it, I used a .22 caliber rifle cleaning rod and brush. I did this during a 3800SC conversion and replaced the fuel pump with a Corvette pump.

The filler hose and airvent hose were still available from TFS when I replaced mine--I think they are still available--and I used fuel injection line to connect from the three lines coming from the sending unit to the fuel line, return and vent.

Have fun if that is an option. It wasn't for me!

You're supposed to empty the tank before you work on it. Yeah i bet it was tough working with a take full of sloshing gas. You could run the ffuel pump to empty it, or you coudl siphon it with a hose either all the way from the filler neck, or from the filler neck of the tank after you disconnnect it.

Make sure you have lots of room underneath the car before you start. There is a little brace under the middle of the tank that has to come out before the tank drops. There should be 4 bolts holding it in. disconnect the 3 hoses from the fuel pump/ vent assembly and the fill and vent hoses. Next there are 2 straps that are held on buy a nut on one side, a metric deep well soclet is handy for this. After they are off, the tank should drop out. Tip: don't be under the tank when you remove the last bolt, don't ask me how I know. If you have an air ratchet, it makes it alot easier.

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: You're supposed to empty the tank before you work on it. Yeah i bet it was tough working with a take full of sloshing gas. You could run the ffuel pump to empty it, or you coudl siphon it with a hose either all the way from the filler neck, or from the filler neck of the tank after you disconnnect it.

good luck with that... getting a hose to go into the tank and low enough to drain it when the pump is corroded and not working is nearly impossible. IMHO of course. I pulled both of my tanks when they had about 5-6 gallons of old gas each. Just need to be very careful not to tip it rearward with the filler neck open. YMMV

Charlie

Tank is out,but check this out...
A few years ago when I started my engine swap ( It took me a long time,mainley because my drivers license was suspended and had other projects I was doing).When I started this swap,I had a new fiero fuel pump,installed,at the time I wasnt considering doing a swap,but found a killer,3.8 SC II,with less than 8 thousand miles on it.When I had installed the fiero stock fuel pump,the inside of the tank was squeakey clean,no rust at all (my mechanic says this new fuel absorbs moisture,and casuses what you see,below,probubley less likeley if you drive your car dailey).Look at all that loose crud....

Never reuse,fuel when its a rusty brown color.Look you can see all the crud at the bottom of the fuel tank.

The wallls of the tank are rough,like stucko from the rust and the paint is comeing off.

This was a brand new fuel pump,only 8 thousand miles on it,and those hose clamps (pulsater),were a bright chrome when installed.There wasn't even any rust on the metal sending unit fuel lines,now there is loads of rust.The weird thing,is that the fuel line,that was used to replace the pulsator,became soft and mushey,fuel line isnt supposed to do that,totalley weird.This car was covered with a plastic tarp in the winter,so no water misterousley made its way into the tank by its self.I live in California,so its a relitivley dry enviroment.

[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 07-06-2010).]

does the tank have a hole in it? if not you can take it to a radiator shop and have them flush and clean it out then reline it.
this is what I have had done to a few now and it has worked great. it will cost about 200 for this but you know the take is clean and good.
D.

quote Originally posted by whodeanie: does the tank have a hole in it? if not you can take it to a radiator shop and have them flush and clean it out then reline it. this is what I have had done to a few now and it has worked great. it will cost about 200 for this but you know the take is clean and good. D.

no hole in the tank,Thanks for the tip,I'll look into that.

quote Originally posted by whodeanie: does the tank have a hole in it? if not you can take it to a radiator shop and have them flush and clean it out then reline it. this is what I have had done to a few now and it has worked great. it will cost about 200 for this but you know the take is clean and good. D.

I tried to do that here a couple of years ago but the radiator shops had stopped offering that service. Their excuse was that after some new environmental regulations went into effect it got too expensive for them to deal with the chemicals. Hopefully you will find a shop that still offers this service.

Charlie