The passenger window motor wasn't working when I got the car so I replaced it today (that was fun!). Anyhow, replaced it, it works but won't go down all the way....there is at least 5-6 inches of glass sticking up. When you put the window down it goes fine and just before the point where it stops it seems like it's binding for a second and then stops (motor won't move the window any more). So, in that position I checked everything around the glass...it seem like it had bound up. Using, the switch I lifted it just a fraction and at that point everything is loose. It's almost like it's hitting a stop but there is no stop at that point. I don't think I installed the motor wrong (kept everything in place while swapping it).

Anyone run into a similar problem?

Thanks

I've had this problem too, but for me it turned out to be the wire harness for the power mirror that was getting snagged by the window mechanism. You may have to remove the rubber trim piece at the forward edge of the top of the door to see what's happening.

Blooz - thanks for the info...I'll check it out.

t

Good to see you found and fixed it.

quote Originally posted by michfiero: Solved the problem. Turns out...don't know why (the window wasn't working when I bought the car) but the rear vertical channel had a dent in the side of it which acted just like a stop. Had to get in there with a flattened chisel and bang it out a bit. Works just fine now.

And thanks for posting the solution!

I will be removing my power window motors to replace them in the next day or so. Ordered two new motors from RockAuto today.

I took apart and cleaned the two switches today, and they work a litle bit better, buy still slow motion.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-26-2010).]

Warning !

If you pull the window motors off while everything is outside of the door , pin the arms . Even with track all the way at the top the spring still has a good amount of tension on it, it will hurt you .

I did both of mine after removing all parts to be cleaned and lubed. First one was a painful experience , second one I knew better ... stay clear .

GL HF

quote Originally posted by Kemp3: Warning ! If you pull the window motors off while everything is outside of the door , pin the arms . Even with track all the way at the top the spring still has a good amount of tension on it, it will hurt you . I did both of mine after removing all parts to be cleaned and lubed. First one was a painful experience , second one I knew better ... stay clear . GL HF

Do you mean removing the regulator from the motor, or the motor assembly from the door? This is the second time I have seen this.

I will post some pictures from my effort so you can see what is going on...may not be able to get them posted until tomorrow. However, the warning is related to when you remove the motor from the lift assembly (the "x" piece that lifts the window). As correctly pointed out...even with the x piece in the fully engaged position (window fully up) the coil spring is still engaged. Pull the motor off without locking the x and those gear teeth can become a buzz saw. It just occurred to me...I won't have time to post the pics (haven't loaded the poster software yet). If you PM me with an email address I'll send the pics and you can post for me.

T

P.S. I removed the door skin to replace my motor.

Regulator from the motor. Since you've done it before you know how big that wound spring is and how those regulator arms are held from moving by the motor. I did mine by removing everything from the door (including the glass) and held the regulator arms in a vice so they would not move. Never tried it with the regulator still attached inside the door. Is that possible?

Just to add some clarification. I don't think it's possible to remove the motor from the regulator while the whole thing is inside the door. To remove the motor from the regulator you have to drill out some rivets. I guess in theory you could drill access holes through the sheet metal (inside facing) to get to the rivets...willl look into that on when I do my drivers side

Anyway...the steps I followed...

1) remove interior trim panels, arm rest, door handles
2) remove side view mirror
3) remove door skin (disconnect door lock mechanisms...the handle rod just slides out but the door lock rod has a retaining clip that has to be removed to completely remove the door skin
4) put window all the way up and clamp with spring clamps at front and rear edges (these are rubber coated spring clamps and are strong enough to hold the window up once you remove the regulator and motor)
5) Drill out rivets holding motor (4)
6) From outside of car...slide motor and regulator towards front of car...whole thing should just slide right out.
7) Immediately zip tie (1/4' wide zip ties are what I use) the regulator arms so they will not move. Or clamp them with a C clamp. DO NOT REMOVE THE MOTOR UNTIL YOU HAVE DONE THIS STEP
8) Drill out rivets holding motor to regulator
9) Attach new motor (I used #12 bolts and nylon locknuts). You may have to drill out the holes to accept the #12...my motor did not come with attaching nuts...some do.
10) Remove zip ties once the motor has been attached
11) Slide the whole assembly back in (reverse of step 6)
12) Attach motor and regulator assembly using 1/4-20 x 1/2inch screws or bolts and nylon lock nuts.
13) Check that everything is clear (wiring for the power mirror, door lock and door handle rods, etc before testing motor.

[This message has been edited by michfiero (edited 09-27-2010).]

I removed one this afternoon. I just posted this in my swap thread, but will post it here also so the pictures are in this thread. I didn't remove the outside skin. This was about 35-40 minuets of working.

I removed the inner door panel to access the drivers door power window motor. After cleaning and lubing the window switches, they still move in a very slow manor. I have ordered two new power window motors from Rock Auto yesterday.

After removing the inner panned I removed the plastic that a PO had used instead of the paper barrier that is supposed to be here. I removed the small channel piece that is bolted to the inside of the door frame. and some of the parts of the power door locks. I wasn't aware that I had power door locks until today. And they work, well sorta, as the drivers side will unlock. The right door works both lock and unlock.

After disconnecting every thing as explained in the book, I needed to raise the glass up all the way and block it in the up position. The handle of my largest Phillips screw driver inserted at the bevel of the glass:

inserted at the rear of the door:

If you have power door locks, you will need to remove the lock solenoid first as it is in the way big time. In these two spaces:
Lower hole

and upper hole.:After removing the rivets remove the motor with the scissor assembly threw this hole.

And out:


This was fun, NOT.

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 09-27-2010).]

The two Dorman window motors I ordered Sunday came today. They are "Made in China". I am gonna go ahead and install them and give them a shot.