Many of you that have stock engines or have swapped engines have replaced your fuel pumps with new ones or larger volume/capacity units. You disconnected the electrical line, drained the tank, disconnected the hoses removed the brackets and dropped the tank. Its not a big deal to do this but here is something that only slilled mechanics and the pros know about. When replacing the fuel pump you can choose to use a "pulsator" to join the pump outout nipple to the fuel line. Trouble is that these things leak like crazy, do little good and you can easly lose pressure, especially when using a high pressure or larger capacity pump. As a result many mechanics use a length of 5/16" fuel injection hose and two hose clamps to couple the pump to the fuel line. Trouble is that much of the time standard high pressure fuel injection hose made to SAE spec J30R9 is used. Many don't realize that SAE J30R9 hose is great for high pressures and it will contain gasoline just fine. However , it will deteriorate, fail and burst in short order if it is submerged in gasoline. It was designed to stand up with gas on the inside not on the outside. The trick is to use SAE spec J30R10 submersible fuel line for this critical tank connection. SAE spec J30R10 will last when submerged in gasoline, alcohol and other types of fuel without a problem while std J30R9 hose will not. I have found that most auto supply stores do not carrry this hose and few countermen don't even know about it but we find it available at the NAPA store. Its sold in 1 ft. sections so you don't have to buy a large amount. Here is what it looks like
When replacing or upgrading a fuel pumpe sure to use it or have your AAA card ready!
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 06-04-2009).]
When replacing the fuel pump you can choose to use a "pulsator" to join the pump outout nipple to the fuel line. Trouble is that these things leak like crazy, do little good and you can easly lose pressure, especially when using a high preesure or larger capacity pump.
... many mechanics use a length of 5/16" fuel injection hose and two hose clamps to couple the pump to the fuel line ... The trick is to use SAE spec J30R10 submersible fuel line for this critical tank connection. SAE spec J30R10 will last when submerged in gasoline, alcohol and other types of fuel without a problem while std J30R9 hose will not.
Good information concerning the proper hose to use. FWIW, the OEM Delphi (AC/Delco) pump I bought to replace the original pump in my Formula included a short length of the correct hose. One other detail: you really want the piece of hose to be long enough that it can't disconnect even if it manages to slide up or down on the connecting tubes.
That said, I disagree with you concerning the pulsator. First, if the pulsator didn't serve a useful function GM wouldn't have put it there in the first place. Second, a properly installed pulsator does not "leak like crazy" and cause a loss of fuel pressure in a stock or near-stock installation. I have not evaluated the pulsator in a system with higher than stock pressure and/or flow rates, so I can't comment there one way or the other.
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07:58 PM
josef644 Member
Posts: 6939 From: Dickinson, Texas USA Registered: Nov 2006
Good information concerning the proper hose to use. FWIW, the OEM Delphi (AC/Delco) pump I bought to replace the original pump in my Formula included a short length of the correct hose. One other detail: you really want the piece of hose to be long enough that it can't disconnect even if it manages to slide up or down on the connecting tubes.
That said, I disagree with you concerning the pulsator. First, if the pulsator didn't serve a useful function GM wouldn't have put it there in the first place. Second, a properly installed pulsator does not "leak like crazy" and cause a loss of fuel pressure in a stock or near-stock installation. I have not evaluated the pulsator in a system with higher than stock pressure and/or flow rates, so I can't comment there one way or the other.
Marvin: I have no analytical info to share about the pulsator but we do have some practical examples to sight. On four fuel pumps that I recently installed we eliminated the pulsator and replaced the union with submersible fuel line and FI clamps on all. None of these installations exhibited any increase in fuel pump noise and the fuel pressures are strong and continuous. The pulsator was put there to dampen pulses in the fuel line and to reduce noise but we find no evidence that it does anything beneficial. Do you really want a pump capable of 43-50 psi and high flow being coupled to the fuel supply tube with a slip on coupler (pulsator) that uses no clamping device what so ever or does a hose and clamps sound like the more secure union? The potential for leakage is there on high flow pumps as the pulsators were not designed to hold anything more than a stock fuel pump puts out. If you speak to some of the turbo GN guys they claim that the pulsators are especially prone to leakage when used with Walbro pumps that use a different style output nipple. Can I say definitively that the pulsator has no value at all-No. But I can say that on the installations that I have done, the submersible fuel line couplings work fine and we see no ill effects. Until we see any noticable negative effects we will keep doing them that way. If you uncover anything to the contrary please pass it on as I'd like to know about it.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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10:03 PM
katatak Member
Posts: 7136 From: Omaha, NE USA Registered: Apr 2008
I have a question for the experts. I just installed a new (factory style) fuel pump in my 88 Coupe. The pump came with a piece of rubber hose to connect the pump to the metal line. Can I be sure that this piece of hose will stand up to external gasoline exposure? The old pump - which I believe was an aftermarket had the same type of hose connecting it to the fule line. It did have a "spnogy" feel to it. Now I'm worried I'll have to do that fuel tank thing again sometime in the future. TIA
Pat
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11:16 PM
Jun 5th, 2009
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
cool...I was searching forever for the thick walled hose that came stock and could not find one.
I have been using a normal FI hose for about 5yrs with no problems...so far. But, my tank is hardly ever full and when it is it doesn't stay full for more than a day. Most of the time I run about 4 gal in the tank so I doubt the hose is submerged.
One could use a braided nylon lined hose
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 06-05-2009).]
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01:28 AM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
who cares what it costs... i put a new fuel pump in a car only to have to pull it out again in about 7 months.
Katatak: Buddys video should answer the question as to whether the supplied hose coupling will work. It probably won't. Erik: As for the cost of the hose; far less expensive than being towed off the highway plus you really have no alternative. When you can find it SAE spec J30R10 submersible fuel injection hose runs about $10 per ft. One foot will do about 4-5 installs and its rated for 100 PSI. . Buddy: If you used regular fuel injection hose the repair will probably not last. I'd drop the tank and splice in submersible hose before the car drops you! As you know the job only takes about 1 1/2 hours
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 06-05-2009).]
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08:53 AM
PFF
System Bot
hookdonspeed Member
Posts: 7980 From: baltimore, md Registered: May 2008
Hmmmmm....so when I did my 4.9 swap in 2006, I changed the pump and use F. I. hose. So far so good....but it sounds like I'm on borrowed time. How long do you think it will take for the hose to deteriorate to the point of failure?
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12:21 PM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15442 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
Hmmmmm....so when I did my 4.9 swap in 2006, I changed the pump and used F. I. hose. So far so good....but it sounds like I'm on borrowed time. How long do you think it will take for the hose to deteriorate to the point of failure?
I can only guess that different brands of FI hose act differently when submerged. Also gasohol and gas additives will speed up the process. I am doing a test on a 3" long piece of Goodyear hose right now and after a week in a bottle it looks swollen. Changing the hose is no big job. I attach a hose to the fuel filter and run it into a gas can then attach a set of probles to the gray and black wires at the fuel pump connector energize them and pump the tank dry being sure to stop the pump when it finally sputters. Then its just a matter of detaching the hoses and brackets and dropping the tank.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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01:17 PM
Terry_w Member
Posts: 930 From: Fort Worth,TX Registered: Sep 2008
good advice on the pulsator and aftermarket higher capacity/flow pressure fuel pump. i got a new pulsator when i did my walbro 255 swap. ill get that hose when this pulsator does go out cause it probably will.
the injector hose lasted longer before they added ethanol to the gas ..ethanol is complete crap, it causes many components in the fuel injection system to fail prematurely..
the hose will swell and fail early,, you will not know of the early swelling because it will still work . Use ONLY injector hose from the tank upper fitting to the plenum/regulator area I beleave the delco pump comes with the submersible hose(not certain) Fiero,s are not as fussy as some cars !! because of patent infringement some pumps are made a bit different ,, the 89-93 T bird AND CHEVY BLAZER/GMC JIMMY are examples(personal experience) if you install an after market pump,, it does not pick up the bottom gallon or 2 and will die rounding a corner or stopping when it falls below a 1/4 tank.. So use the factory pump unless it is rockerfeller priced.. When a pump fails it is stressed before failure this causes the relay "burn" ..so replace the relay... some recommend you also replace the oil pump swich,, but this should be OK..
Ethanol gives lower gas milage,,negating its purpose you will burn more gas and the ethanol also,ethanol causes premature failure of parts,, this is your goverment working for you.10% ethanol delivers 10% less MPG !! who figured this out ?? Barney Frank?
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 06-06-2009).]
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12:35 PM
fierofool Member
Posts: 12912 From: Auburn, Georgia USA Registered: Jan 2002
BS. Ethanol has been around a long time now and every manufacturer uses components designed to handle it. It keeps the fuel system clean, and I don't have to bother with Heet or other gas dryers in the winter. It's never caused me a problem. It's also true that alcohol gives better cooling to the intake tract. I can run higher compression without having to pay for premium gas, which is a lot higher. I haven't used anything else in over a decade. This whole thing has been beat to death many times.
my information on ethanol comes from listening to auto mechanic talk shows,especially the magic mechanic who advises auto manufacturers .. Ethanol has caused a lot of harm and still does this subject needs to be discussed much,, much more often BECAUSE add 10% ethanol to gas and you get a 10% drop in fuel MPG .. I keep gas on hand for emergencies ,,I recently emptied the old emergency gas(100% gas) in my GMC Jimmy tank WOW what a difference in the performance of the engine.. Ethenol/ethanol is CRAP ,,a goverment boondoggle,, a real crap sandwich..we are poluting the air just as much harming the engines of people who need the money for Gambleing, crack,booze and loose women !! Ethanol does nothing to help save gas save the corn for food .. the ethanol people are hoping gas goes to $6.00 a gallon,, this is a travesty ,,obama is beating the dollar to death so who knows what we will pay .. The bull was a few years ago when the truth about ethanol was in the newspapers ,on TV, even the stock market advise shows talked about it ,,but the politicians did not want to reverse this and make the greens march ..it was a cause celeb.. try running 100% ethanol
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 06-07-2009).]
I suppose you get all your important info from radio talking heads. Are you serious?
1) It takes more energy to make ethanol than the fuel itself produces. Reality: Not so. Critics like to cite a 2005 study that shows a negative energy balance for ethanol, but that study was coauthored by a former oil company employee. It is contradicted by five others showing that corn ethanol delivers 20 to 50 percent more energy output than it takes to produce, and cellulosic up to 600 percent more. The National Resources Defense Council calls corn ethanol "energy well spent."
2) Ethanol is expensive to produce. Reality: Ethanol costs about $1 a gallon to produce at typical facilities, which explains why E85 was selling for $1.95 at pumps in South Dakota this summer. In 2004, it was selling for $1.40 a gallon wholesale. Prices spiked higher recently because oil companies mismanaged the switch to ethanol as a replacement for the environmentally disastrous additive MBTE. Once demand and supply reach equilibrium, it can profitably sell for $1.40 a gallon without subsidies.
3) There's not enough land to grow crops for ethanol. Reality: Former secretary of state George Schultz and ex-CIA director R. James Woolsey estimate that 30 million acres can replace half our gasoline. I estimate that 40 million to 60 million acres can replace our gasoline needs. By taking land now used to grow export crops and instead planting energy crops, it's feasible to eliminate our need to import oil for gasoline.
4) Switching to ethanol is expensive. Reality: It didn't cost much in Brazil. Automakers already produce 10 flex-fuel models. There are almost as many flex-fuel vehicles in California as there are diesel cars and light trucks. A new car can be made flex-fuel-capable for about $35. And the cost to adapt a retail gas pump for E85 is a bargain – as little as $10,000.
5) Ethanol is unfairly subsidized. Reality: Yes, ethanol producers and blenders share in a 51-cent-a-gallon federal credit that costs taxpayers about $2 billion a year. The majority of that accrues to oil companies, not farmers. But not mentioned by critics is the 54-cent-a-gallon tariff on imported ethanol, which hampers global competition. Meanwhile, the US also directly subsidizes Big Oil. The General Accounting Office reports that the industry has netted $82 billion from just one line item alone, something called "excess of percentage over cost depletion," and there are many other such clauses.
Anytime you think ethanol is unfeasible, drop on down to Brazil, where the whole country (it's a big one) runs on it without the need for middle east wars or hundreds of billions in hidden aid for big oil companies. You just keep reading the big oil misinformation campaign and know you got it all down.
[This message has been edited by weaselbeak (edited 06-07-2009).]
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08:41 AM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15442 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
Thanks for your polite post. While this is a privately owned forum by virtue of it being open to all, it is in a way a public forum.. If I post anything here it is for the benefit of ALL and it is in the public domain. I enjoy Fieros and enjoy sharing what I have learned. Its hopefully something that can be useful to others. By all means please feel free post this tip anywhere that you wish.
quote
BS. Ethanol has been around a long time now and every manufacturer uses components designed to handle it. It keeps the fuel system clean, and I don't have to bother with Heet or other gas dryers in the winter. It's never caused me a problem. It's also true that alcohol gives better cooling to the intake tract. I can run higher compression without having to pay for premium gas, which is a lot higher. I haven't used anything else in over a decade. This whole thing has been beat to death many times.
Much of what you say is correct. But to be realistic on the effects in our fuel systems, we need to understand that on this forum we are talking about the effects of enthanol in a car that is now 20-25 years old.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
"Much of what you say is correct. But to be realistic on the effects in our fuel systems, we need to understand that on this forum we are talking about the effects of enthanol in a car that is now 20-25 years old." Cars have been adapted for ethanol from all manufacturers longer than that. I run it in my 59 Olds, and my nephew runs it in his 68 Triumph as well as his early 70s motorcycles. (He has 3). My 100 HP Evenrude 1979, has been on it for years. I ran it in my 1982 GS1100 Suzuki and my 1984 Moto Guzzi. It's never been a problem in anything.
[This message has been edited by weaselbeak (edited 06-07-2009).]
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11:12 AM
Jun 8th, 2009
Formula Owner Member
Posts: 1053 From: Madison, AL Registered: May 2001
Originally posted by weaselbeak: Cars have been adapted for ethanol from all manufacturers longer than that. I run it in my 59 Olds, and my nephew runs it in his 68 Triumph as well as his early 70s motorcycles. (He has 3). My 100 HP Evenrude 1979, has been on it for years. I ran it in my 1982 GS1100 Suzuki and my 1984 Moto Guzzi. It's never been a problem in anything.
I don't agree with this as a blanket statement. My 2000 Kawasaki ZZR1200 manual states that gas with up to 10% ethanol is acceptable for day to day operation, but not for long term storage. My experience is that alcohol fuels will harden rubber components much faster than petroleum only fuels.
My intention was not to start a post war..I am very familiar with brazil ,also the many disasters that happen when they went to alcohol/ethanol.. they are grateful for oil discovery off the coast !! guess why ?? the evidence was and is against ethanol..it has done many millions of dollars worth of damage ,,previously NO ,,nada problem with hose in fuel tank,, along came ethanol,,now many problems,many upset mechanics,many stranded motorist .it also has destroyed many fuel injection lines,,This is OLD news,, there was a major stink about this a few years ago , the politicians knew ethanol sucked but would not arouse the greens ,,easier to make Joe & Jane family suffer with car repair It is simple Ethanol plants would shut down today,, if not for bureaucracy adherence to inflexible rules this is a serious boondoggle ,a tragedy.. The shows I listen to are not the click and clack bros, these are nationally recognized business men and Mechanics,, who advise G.M ,, Ford, and Chrysler ..Ethanol is so bad it was discussed on the radio stock talk shows, USE top quality submersible hose to prevent Fuel damage Big oil only cares about ethanol because it is complete crap and a pain to deal with,, it causes much higher gas prices all of us pay because of bad politics and super greedy special interest corn farmers and corn lobby .. avoid ethanol when ever possible 10% ethanol =10% drop in MPG Ethanol the fuel that hurts Your Wallet forever ..avoid it the gas I added to my car was over 2 years old it made the car run much better ,,it was straight chevron 87 gas
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 06-09-2009).]
Brazil, as ANY country would be, is happy to find oil because that's called MONEY. In Brazil, cars run on gas as well as ethanol, stations have both. Funny they still manage to sell far more of it than gasoline after several decades. And here in Iowa we use ethanol and the state is not a giant repair shop. How about some FACTS to back up your offhand claims? Stop telling me about radio talk characters. They are only spouting personal opinion, and if they were from Iowa and actually had a history with the stuff they would have a different opinion, instead of 3rd person "well I heard" stuff. There is also the "use excuse". You can't blame ethanol for your trouble if you don't use it. So if you do and have problems, blame it on the ethanol. Never mind that you weren't smart enough to change the filter, or check your oil once in a while, or do a tuneup. When it pukes, blame it on the ethanol, even tho it would have dumped anyway. Can't possibly be because cars break down some normally. Add in the fact that I send less money to the camel jockeys and that Brazil sees no need to help finance our foreign OIL wars (yes, it's about oil), and it becomes clear that I'm not the one stuck on old thoughts.
[This message has been edited by weaselbeak (edited 06-10-2009).]
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09:51 AM
PFF
System Bot
vortecfiero Member
Posts: 996 From: Toronto Area, Canada Registered: Feb 2002
back on topic. most of the walboro kits come with the correct in tank hose... first thing i checked when i did mine
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87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6 Bully Stage 2 clutch Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection 50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system T31/T04B H3 turbo and a S10 caliper conversion. Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure. Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"
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06:33 PM
josef644 Member
Posts: 6939 From: Dickinson, Texas USA Registered: Nov 2006
Dennis can you tell us what the difference is between the Fuel Injection clamp, and the plain jane hose clamp, and maybe a photo? I went to my local NAPA today to inquirer about this item, and they didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Joe Crawford
87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6 Bully Stage 2 clutch Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection 50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system T31/T04B H3 turbo and a S10 caliper conversion....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... vortecfiero, I would not want to have to pay for that car, but I'd sure like to own it.
[This message has been edited by weaselbeak (edited 06-10-2009).]
Guys,I've been running E85 only on my swap since march, not one E85 problem so far, fuel filter was new in 2005 and looks brand new still. I started with a new clean Arizona tank, a new TREperformance.com 255lph pump and reused about 80% of the fiero lines that go to the engine. But I have a engine that mechanically will benefit from E85, the stock 2.8/2.5 probably will not.
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11:17 AM
Jun 12th, 2009
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15442 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
Dennis can you tell us what the difference is between the Fuel Injection clamp, and the plain jane hose clamp, and maybe a photo? I went to my local NAPA today to inquirer about this item, and they didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Joe Crawford
A Fuel Injection clamp is a simple metal band held tight on the hose with a screw and nut. A hose clamp does the same thing but tightens via a screw mechanism that uses slots in the metal band to achieve the tightness. Both seem to work on fuel injection line although the former is recommended and probably better.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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08:54 AM
Oct 30th, 2010
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
I bought a new fuel pump to replace my noisy Walbro. Before I dropped the tank, I did a quick search to see if there were any tips that would benefit the effort, and I stumbled across this thread. I do not know what type of hose is currently inside the tank, but now is the best time to put the best type in since the tank is down. I'd hate to have a hose fail shortly after replacing the pump - so this is merely a bump for others.
This is good advice, thanks Dennis.
BTW, finding the hose was no small feat. The Napa chain here did not have it, Pep Boys did not, Parks Auto (local chain that ALWAYS have hard to find GM parts in stock) did not, Autozone did not, Advance Auto did not. The irony is the last store that I checked - the one that I least expected to have it had it in stock. O'Reilly's. Go figure. They are also the closest to my home.
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04:15 PM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15442 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
I bought a new fuel pump to replace my noisy Walbro. Before I dropped the tank, I did a quick search to see if there were any tips that would benefit the effort, and I stumbled across this thread. I do not know what type of hose is currently inside the tank, but now is the best time to put the best type in since the tank is down. I'd hate to have a hose fail shortly after replacing the pump - so this is merely a bump for others.
This is good advice, thanks Dennis.
BTW, finding the hose was no small feat. The Napa chain here did not have it, Pep Boys did not, Parks Auto (local chain that ALWAYS have hard to find GM parts in stock) did not, Autozone did not, Advance Auto did not. The irony is the last store that I checked - the one that I least expected to have it had it in stock. O'Reilly's. Go figure. They are also the closest to my home.
Just trying to share some valuable info and save people from breaking down at 1AM in the rain , and in an area without cell service! Thats the way it alway seems to happen.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Also... You need this type of rubber line because E10 gas. Don't trust fuel pump maker to including right part of rubber line.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
good tip. I've havent even seen the pulsator on alot of fuel systems. I've seen some that were located near the fuel rail but not in tank
as far as E85 goes, I "converted" (which btw didnt take much) one of my cars to run on E85. after doing a bit of research I came to the conclusion that some people worry a little tooooo much about what needs/doesnt need to be done
all I did was richen my overall tune roughly ~30% and filled up the tank full of E85. first driving impression the transition went flawlessly. the car ran great, no problems at all
some of you may like to know E85 also has a nice octane rating. around here its roughly ~105 octane. so if you have a forced induction car its basically the cheapest race gas you can buy. turbo/sc cars love running the stuff, mine sure did
