I'm converting my automatic to a manual transmission car. I have EVERYTHING from the manual transmission car that I could possibly need sitting in boxes, etc, in a shed.
With my automatic, I had to do two things in order to start the car:
1 - Depress the brake pedal. 2 - The car had to be in Park or neutral.
To start the car in a manual, there was only one thing I had to do, push in the clutch.
So, what all do I need to swap into my Fiero so that I can have a functional neutral safety switch on my car?
No need to depress the brake pedal on an automatic Fiero.
There is a fat YELLOW wire that connects to the ignition switch (Both auto and stick) That wire runs to the neutral switch (Clutch or Auto Tranny switch located on the auto tranny). From the neutral/clutch switch the wire is a fat PURPLE wire that runs to the starter solenoid.
So if you have an auto, the YELLOW wire from the ignition switch runs all the way back to C500, the connector by the battery.
If you have a stick, the YELLOW wire from the ignition switch runs to the clutch switch. The second wire on the clutch switch is the fat PURPLE wire. The fat PURPLE wire runs to C500.
So for whatever reason GM designated different pins on C500 for the YELLOW and PURPLE wire. My guess is so if you have an auto wiring harness in the cab of the car, and they have a auto engine harness, it makes it that the engine doesn't crank. Of course we are going to just deal with the moved pin, so it's not a big deal.
So what you want to do. Cut the YELLOW wire and splice it to the clutch switch. Then back at C500 either you have to move the solenoid wire to other position, on either the body side of C500 or the engine side of C500 so they line up again.
You also have to deal with the reverse switch wiring. Auto trannys, and 5 speeds have the reverse switch on the transmission itself. 4 speeds have the switch in the console.
------
Edited to change pink to purple. The other posts reminded me of the correct color.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 02-04-2011).]
IP: Logged
06:59 PM
82-T/A [At Work] Member
Posts: 24344 From: Florida USA Registered: Aug 2002
Ahh.. ok. I have the steering column too... but it is NASTY looking. I guess the wiring harness that connects to the steering column is the same regardless of automatic vs manual?
And then the connector that attaches to the neutral safety swich, that then instead connets to the CLUTCH safety switch?
No need to depress the brake pedal on an automatic Fiero.
There is a fat yellow wire that connects to the ignition switch (Both auto and stick) That wire runs to the neutral switch (Clutch or Auto Tranny switch located on the auto tranny). From the neutral/clutch switch the wire is a fat pink wire that runs to the starter solenoid.
So if you have an auto, the YELLOW wire from the ignition switch runs all the way back to C500, the connector by the battery.
If you have a stick, the YELLOW wire from the ignition switch runs to the clutch switch. The second wire on the clutch switch is the fat PINK wire. The fat PINK wire runs to C500.
So for whatever reason GM designated different pins on C500 for the YELLOW and PINK wire. My guess is so if you have an auto wiring harness in the cab of the car, and they have a auto engine harness, it makes it that the engine doesn't crank. Of course we are going to just deal with the moved pin, so it's not a big deal.
So what you want to do. Cut the YELLOW wire and splice it to the clutch switch. Then back at C500 either you have to move the solenoid wire to other position, on either the body side of C500 or the engine side of C500 so they line up again.
You also have to deal with the reverse switch wiring. Auto trannys, and 5 speeds have the reverse switch on the transmission itself. 4 speeds have the switch in the console.
Oh yeah... forgot about reverse. Heh...
Ok, that makes sense. I've got a manual ECM too. I saved the wiring harness from the manual transmission car too, but my car is really in very good condition, so I'd rather just re-use my harness.
This is the clutch safety switch It only connects when the clutch is fully pressed. The other switches you might find on the clutch pedal are for tripping off the cruise control.
The two fat connectors are the ones the starter wires connect to.
IP: Logged
07:06 PM
Mike Gonzalez Member
Posts: 5093 From: Colorado Springs, CO. USA Registered: Jul 2001
So if you use the auto engine harness (modified) and connect it to the auto body harness, you don't have to move the starter wire pin.
You will have to cut off the auto tranny switch, splice together the fat pink and fat yellow wires together. The blue and green wires that also were on the auto tranny switch need to be spliced to the reverse switch if you have a 5 speed. The other two wires on the auto tranny switch don't get used. Also you will have a TCC wire on the auto harness that you don't use for the manual.
IP: Logged
07:11 PM
Feb 5th, 2011
sportcoupe Member
Posts: 329 From: Savannah, GA Registered: Oct 2010
This is the clutch safety switch It only connects when the clutch is fully pressed. The other switches you might find on the clutch pedal are for tripping off the cruise control.
The two fat connectors are the ones the starter wires connect to.
Anyone have a picture of this switch installed? I crawled under the dash and can't figure it out.
The previous owner took it off my Fiero and I would like to have it (for safety).
IP: Logged
08:36 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
When I changed mine from an automatic to a Getrag 5 speed I eliminated the switch on the clutch pedal (jumpered it out) and I left the auto steering column in. I have no lever to push to remove the key. I like it like that.
But I did have to add the cruise switch to the clutch pedal.
I did not change the wiring harness. I did what I had to do to modify the automatic wiring harness to work with the 5 speed.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
You'll also need to run the ignition switch from the manual, it bolts right to the column. In fact, other than the ignition switch and the manual-specific key release lever mechanism all the other mechanical bits in the columns are the same. The auto ignition switch has a cable interlock function that connects to the auto shifter. Without the cable the switch can randomly lock.
Also, the wiper switch inside the column needs to match whatever wiper system you have (intermittent or non-intermittent). Horn and turn signal stuff is all the same. Look at my column write up for a better understanding of the column.
IP: Logged
10:58 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
The auto ignition switch has a cable interlock function that connects to the auto shifter. Without the cable the switch can randomly lock.
Umm... that's not good. So you're saying I absolutely should go with the manual column? The automatic column that came with my car is in really good shape... I'd hate to swap to my manual column which is beat to hell.
I've really got to re-read this entire thread... it sounds to me like there is literally about 100 different things I have to do, including re-wiring the starter or some crap. Damn. I can't imagine why GM made this so complicated.
Isn't there just a single wire I can bypass or complete the circuit on? Or re-use all the neutral safety switches and just use them on the new pedals? Jeeze...
If you don't want a clutch switch you don't have to do anything under the dash except disconnect the auto cable from the column and add the pedals.
Thanks Dawgz, I hate to sound like a ***** , but damn, there's definitely a lot to do.
So you're telling me that all I REALLY need to do inside the car so that I can drive my Fiero with an automatic to manual conversion, is just disconnect the cable, swap out the pedals, and the shifter? And that's it?
You won't have a safety switch on the clutch or a cruise trip switch on the clutch. The engine would crank in gear, and when you press on the clutch the cruise would rev until you press the brake (that is how mine is still wired)
You have to unbolt the ignition switch from the bottom of the column (you will have it out to swap the pedals) and then disconnect the auto cable from it. 4 bolts hold the column in place plus 1 holds the U-joint on the steering shaft. - Note the ignition switch itself is bolted to the top side of the lower column. The ignition LOCK is what is inside the column, and no you don't have to go inside the column.
You might have to deal with a reverse light switch in the console if you are going 4 speed. That switch is on the tranny if you are going with either 5 speed. So if you are going 5 speed you don't have to worry about the console reverse switch.
The shifter cables are 1/2 inside the car.
You have to knock out the second shifter cable knock out in the firewall. It's stamped to be knocked out, but you have to hit it with a hammer and then twist it out.
You are going to use a manual ECM or change the chip in your ECM to manual right? (you do want to do this also) The only differences between the manual and auto ECM for the same year and type engine is just a chip. You can get one quite cheap on here btw. It unplugs and the new one plugs in.
You also have to purchase a Man Pedal shirt.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 02-07-2011).]
IP: Logged
12:09 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
It's really not that complicated. There are a bunch of steps. The thing is I think Fiero owners are kinda anal and want to tell you every step and that is what makes it look kinda complicated.
IP: Logged
12:16 PM
Pyrthian Member
Posts: 29569 From: Detroit, MI Registered: Jul 2002
yup...having done this too...what phonedawgz posted is right on.
another thing most skip over until they try it: the automatic rear deck lid popper. this too is different between autos & manuals. there is a relay under the dash which either needs jumping, or some other mod, depending on your quest for authenticity.
but - in the end - the "easy" answer is to just cross the yellow & purple wires at the old auto trans connector. this will remove ALL safety switches, so, the car WILL crank in gear, no matter where the clutch is. not a good answer - but - it is simple. a little cleaner is to jump them same wires at the C500 connecter.
adding the clutch switch, while not "easy", is fairly straight forward. under the steering column, find the fat yellow wire, cut it, and splice the clutch safety switch inline. and, jump the yellow & purple at either the C500 (preffered) or at the old trans connector
I never swapped the steering column. now I am wondering why you need to?
IP: Logged
12:33 PM
PFF
System Bot
82-T/A [At Work] Member
Posts: 24344 From: Florida USA Registered: Aug 2002
You won't have a safety switch on the clutch or a cruise trip switch on the clutch. The engine would crank in gear, and when you press on the clutch the cruise would rev until you press the brake (that is how mine is still wired)
You have to unbolt the ignition switch from the bottom of the column (you will have it out to swap the pedals) and then disconnect the auto cable from it. 4 bolts hold the column in place plus 1 holds the U-joint on the steering shaft. - Note the ignition switch itself is bolted to the top side of the lower column. The ignition LOCK is what is inside the column, and no you don't have to go inside the column.
You might have to deal with a reverse light switch in the console if you are going 4 speed. That switch is on the tranny if you are going with either 5 speed. So if you are going 5 speed you don't have to worry about the console reverse switch.
The shifter cables are 1/2 inside the car.
You have to knock out the second shifter cable knock out in the firewall. It's stamped to be knocked out, but you have to hit it with a hammer and then twist it out.
You are going to use a manual ECM or change the chip in your ECM to manual right? (you do want to do this also) The only differences between the manual and auto ECM for the same year and type engine is just a chip. You can get one quite cheap on here btw. It unplugs and the new one plugs in.
You also have to purchase a Man Pedal shirt.
Thanks Phone... please bear with me... I know I'm being a pain in the ass, but I have ADD so I'm trying to organize this. I have the interior gutted and stripped down to a bare interior. All the wiring is there, and I'm cleaning it up and re-routing some of it as best as I can. My dash is removed, the steering column is removed, and the shifter assembly is removed, along with every piece of interior, carpet, seats, etc... it's all out of there.
The pedals are already installed, and the steering shaft is coming out of the firewall.
As far as I understand, there are only TWO things that I NEED to worry about:
1 - Cruise Safety Switch 2 - Clutch Safety Switch
When I look at my pedals, I see TWO open holes next to my clutch, and ONE open hole next to my brake.
So I know that the clutch safety switch goes on the clutch, and the crusie safety switch will go on both the brake and clutch pedal.
Right now, I only have a cruise safety switch for the brake. I'm assuming that I can just piggy back the cruise safety switch that goes onto the clutch, on that same wiring harness.
So with that said, the cruise issue would be resolved.
Now the ONLY thing I think that I have to worry about is the clutch safety switch... and essentially, I will need to mess with the harness that goes into the steering column and adapt it to the neutral / clutch safety switch.
Other than that, I do have a new chip that was burned for my 3.2, and a manual transmission ECM (although, as you said, it's the same part number). The reverse wiring shouldn't be too difficult either, I can figure that out. Is the reverse wiring on the column (because of the safety cable) or is that on the shifter? I didn't even bother to look when I removed it.
Thanks again, and I apologize if I'm basically asking the same question 10 different ways.
Well you see that big fat yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch? That is the one you would run through the clutch starter safety switch if you wanted it to work. But again you don't really have to.
