I had set the car down on the drivetrain twice now and both times the end of the dipstick has got hung up on the heater hose. Just wondering what others have done either move the hose or maybe bend the dipstick tube a bit? Maybe both?

Thanks,

Steve

I've tried bending the tube a bit and found that I couldn't get the dipstick back in. Went out to the bone yard and bought another and learned to live with it. I actually have more trouble with the fuel lines interfering with it than the heater hoses.. Either way it is a big pain in the . . . .

That dipstick is one pain in the butt, It's almost impossible to check the oil on a hot engine, when you have to lean half way over the motor with your hand trying to find the hot tube to put the dipstick back in. Sure wish someone would come up with a better solution

I also wish there were an alternative. Checking the oil wouldnt be that bad checking it cold and I have routed my fuel lines by the frame rail.

Guess I will just have to keep tinkering with it and see what I come up with.

Steve

Learn to live with it as to my knowledge no one has come up with a solution so far. You should be able to reach it from the battery side of the car but you must reach down to get the stick. Yes its a PITA.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I am supprised no one came up w/ a better solution!

Seems like it would be a fairly easy item to make...

quote Originally posted by ALJR: I am supprised no one came up w/ a better solution! Seems like it would be a fairly easy item to make...

Well? OK we put the ball in your court

Not long ago, I had some issues with my 88 Formula 3800SC II, Getrag, though not directly related to the dip stick tube location, that was an issue I wanted to address. My car's issue was directly related to the height of the the engine sitting on stock mounts. The answer was to have Fieroguru (Paul) fabricate some of his wonderful mounts. The end result lowered the engine 1/2", which makes everything fit a whole lot better. BTW, the coil pack was moved to the former battery tray location.

Paul's efforts resulted in making the oil dip stick easier to access. It's still in the same location but no longer hiding under that coil pack. Yeah, Paul is nuts but, he's very good at what he does. You just gotta love his work. Yeah, I know, the engine bay is getting cleaned this weekend.


After rework:

Moving the dip stick to an alternative location would require a lot more than it is worth, let's face it, checking the oil isn't something we do on a daily basis.

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Ron

[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 02-20-2011).]

Yes,checking the oil isnt that big a deal. Dont really check it that often as said but it was getting wedged behind the wiring harness and it didnt have much of anywhere else to go. I realized that I couldnt use the coilpack in the stock location nor wanted to move the battery, so I extended the cam/crank sensor wires about 12" and moved the ICM to the driverside between the decklid hinge mount and where the harness enters the cab. Plenty of room there. This moved enough of the harness to make it a bit easier to get to.

Steve

the 3500 swap was definitely no better. i had to buy a new 3400 dipstick tube and then heat it with the blowtorch and bend it over a piece of 2.5" pipe to straiten and bend it in the right location. it was at a decent hight, but not what i wanted. theres always the custom dipstick and tube way.

If anyone has a way to figure out if any of the Lokar flexible dipsticks would fit. Those could be mounted in a better location.

http://www.summitracing.com...OK-ED-5005/?rtype=10

I suppose that you could mig weld an extention to the area above the cap that would make the dipstick longer at the top. That might make it easier to reach but I have not tried it.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

looks like to use one of those you would need to tap the dipstick hole in the block so you can screw one of those into the block. if thats the case, maybe you can drill a hole in the other side, tap it and get the right length of tube and stick.

i have seen a picture on here of the dipstick on the right side for fiero use. im sure i saved it, but no clue as to where it would be now.
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First LX9 Fiero GT, 1987 | My Fiero Fuel Economy | MPG Display for OBD I
Youtube Videos of My GT | modernize your fiero with technology!
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem
Fiero's are people too. We pay just as much attention to them, if not more than our loved ones
screw paying those bastards. im not going to become rich by paying for things.....

since i seem to be getting so many PM's about my hitch, ill answer right here
the trailor hitch/bike rack hitch jack, lifting and resting points...

[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 02-21-2011).]

Well let's look at the tube and figure this out. I too would like a easier to get to DS.

What is the length of the dipstick tube (DS) in in the trans? plus the actual DS length in there as well?
How far does the "handle" have to be from the DS opening?

Are those questions all needed to be answered in order to make a new tube or find one in the junkyard?

The only major thing is to make sure the new DS is the same depth in the fluid for the best reading.


what about a heavy wire like the oil DS I have seen in the newer kind of cars? It has a small "block" at the bottom showing a level for the fluid. That would seem to be a simple way to figure this out? What do you guys think?
Revin

quote Originally posted by revin: what about a heavy wire like the oil DS I have seen in the newer kind of cars? It has a small "block" at the bottom showing a level for the fluid. That would seem to be a simple way to figure this out? What do you guys think? Revin

This sounds like a good idea. Also wonder if the oil level sensor in the oilpan could be used in some way other than just plugging the hole?

Steve

With Ryan's install it's a pretty clear shot, just a long reach. I would be nice if it could be moved to the trunk side.

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RickN
White 88GT 5spd (<10K miles)
White 85GT (SC3800 Series II w/ AOD)
White 99 F250SD 7.3PSD 6spd
1956 Ford 860 Tractor w/ Freeman Loader
20Ft H&H Tilt Bed Trailer (Remember - Gravity is not a tie-down)

Add a intercooler to the mix and it will get harder to get to I hear.

Looking at my truck transmission DS. nice long bend, but the tube is too fat.
The stick may work if it was cut to the size needed and some custom grinding.

The point is sure it is a pita to get to the DS but do-able. We are looking into a better to get to stick.


My question is where did ya'll want the DS to come out? I do not want it coming over the blower, would look tacky. To the Pass. side will get close to the belts.

So with sadness the consciences is, Leave it alone

Put it into the pan and bring it up right behind the stock alternator location. Only problem is you have to mod the pan before you install the engine.

Ok, I just tried for the first time to put the dipstick back in and it is 10x harder than trying to get it out.

I like revins idea and looks like a pretty easy fix. All we need to do is extend the tube ( fab another one ) about 4"-6" longer to bend over the engine a bit toward the rear of the car and use a flexable wire/cable with a flat end with holes for level marks. With the cable, there would be no need to turn it any specific direction to get it down the tube like it is now.

If you wanted to get creative, you could even make it a little longer and move the end to one of the vents so it could be checked without opening the decklid or anywhere you wanted.

quote Originally posted by revin: My question is where did ya'll want the DS to come out? I do not want it coming over the blower, would look tacky. To the Pass. side will get close to the belts.

It does not have to come over the blower.(Maybe 4" longer?) I dont mind it in the back, I just mind it being DOWN in the back.

Steve

[This message has been edited by JumpStart (edited 02-23-2011).]

how far out does the DS stick out from the tube into the oil pan? i really feel like making a custom DS and tube before i do a final install.

quote Originally posted by americasfuture2k: how far out does the DS stick out from the tube into the oil pan? i really feel like making a custom DS and tube before i do a final install.

Good luck, Let us know

Here is what I did




I used the top extension oil tube and the dipstick from a 89 GMC van. The top extension piece will slide apart with a little heat and it fits right in the 3800 dipstick tube.
I used the same mount just removed and welded in a different spot and I bolted it to the trans. I had to bend the tube a little. Measured the dipsticks and made new marks on the van dipstick.

Darren

i do hvac for a living . for larger compressors have a sightglass in the side of the oil sump (oil pan) . i wonder if someone has the brains to make a sight glass add on kit to the side (back side ) of the pan? , or a tee type fitting to the drain plug . RODNEY DICKMAN WHERE ARE YOU MAN.

Oil pan dipstick BEFORE you put the engine in the car - On the rear side of the pan of course

What all autos came with the cable type dipstick?

Do people actaully check there oil between changes? I myself have never worried with checking the oil level between changes but then again I know my motor from top to bottom......

quote Originally posted by JumpStart: I had set the car down on the drivetrain twice now and both times the end of the dipstick has got hung up on the heater hose. Just wondering what others have done either move the hose or maybe bend the dipstick tube a bit? Maybe both? Thanks, Steve

There is absoultely no issue getting to mine but I rarely check it.
I know you can't see it in the pic but you can just reach right in a pull it out. There is nothing in the way. I could take it out and put it back in with my eyes closed.
Just can't beat a clean install.

yikes! nosrac that's nice!

Removed the plastic loop handle.

Drilled a small hole in the remaining top and ran a wire thru it.

Made the wire into a narrow loop & twisted the bottom of the wire loop.

Used body putty to make a long tapered & tilted solid cone around the wire loop.

Ground & painted the cone silver & painted a red "O" on top.

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 08-31-2011).]

quote Originally posted by nosrac: Just can't beat a clean install.

Do I spy a fuel leak?

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 08-31-2011).]

The F-body L36 dipstick and tube are marginally longer than the FWD ones. However, stock F-body routes it to the front corner of the engine which would interfere with the cast iron coil pack bracket and/or belts on the FWD engines, so you would need to rebend it - then come up with a way to fasten it where you want. But it is longer.

-ryan

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OVERKILL IS UNDERRATED

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