**EDIT June 21st** Have decided to go with the automatic 4t65e-hd trans instead
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I really want to install a turbo on my 3800 and not use the M90 blower. What do the guys with getrags and turbo's do to mount on their 3800's?
Do I keep my stock manifolds and get a x-over made with the turbo or what am I needing to do here? The car is an 87gt with the same year getrag 5spd. And I have a new l32 series 3 3800 with the L26 3800 intake installed on it and an L36 throttlebody.
Would love any pictures people might have.
[This message has been edited by Steel (edited 06-21-2011).]
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10:17 PM
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AkursedX Member
Posts: 2890 From: Lackawanna NY Registered: Aug 2000
Well, if you don't want to keep your trunk, you can mount the turbo right off the end of the stock 3800 exhaust system by cutting off the flange and welding on a new flange for the turbo. This would be the easiest way of doing things as you wouldn't have to worry about and shift cable routing.
If you want to keep the trunk, you could get a custom y-pipe fabbed up which would need to clear all the shift cables and fit somewhere on the left-hand side of the engine bay. You will also have to account for charge-pipe routing and/or intercooling solutions. It's not easy to package, but it can be done with some careful planning.
------------------ '88 GT- 3800 Turbo 11.367@121.03mph FOR SALE GM Tuners
I really want to install a turbo on my 3800 and not use the M90 blower. What do the guys with getrags and turbo's do to mount on their 3800's?
Do I keep my stock manifolds and get a x-over made with the turbo or what am I needing to do here? The car is an 87gt with the same year getrag 5spd. And I have a new l32 series 3 3800 with the L26 3800 intake installed on it and an L36 throttlebody.
Would love any pictures people might have.
Sounds like we have the same engine setup. Which set of injector holes did you use? I'm using the ones in the heads, but I had to cut away at the l36 lim to use them. I tapped the injector bosses in the LIM for 1/4 push to connect hosing for direct port nitrous or water/methanol and currenly have 1/4 plugs in them.
Make sure you support the weight of the turbo with some brackets (you may need to custom make), don't rely on the exhaust to support the weight of the turbo. It may work for a while, but eventually you'll crack or break your exhaust pipes/manifolds.
Found some pictures of the support brackets I built for the Turbo I swapped into AkursedX's car. The bracket that supports the turbo to the rear cylinder head is hard to see in the 1st picture because it is obscured by the turbo oil feed line, but you can still see it (it is painted black and bolts to the bottom of the turbo mounting flange and to the cylinder head).
-ryan
[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 04-28-2011).]
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07:21 PM
AkursedX Member
Posts: 2890 From: Lackawanna NY Registered: Aug 2000
I have the turbo out right now so I can get a better pic of that 1st bracket. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow. I will say that this setup is rock-solid.
------------------ '88 GT- 3800 Turbo 11.367@121.03mph FOR SALE GM Tuners
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08:07 PM
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
Make sure you support the weight of the turbo with some brackets (you may need to custom make), don't rely on the exhaust to support the weight of the turbo. It may work for a while, but eventually you'll crack or break your exhaust pipes/manifolds.
I had over 20k miles on mine and a 40lb turbo... No issues.
Justins turbo was almost 70lbs, and it only had a small crack in the bottom of the rear manifold after a year or 2.
Found some pictures of the support brackets I built for the Turbo I swapped into AkursedX's car. The bracket that supports the turbo to the rear cylinder head is hard to see in the 1st picture because it is obscured by the turbo oil feed line, but you can still see it (it is painted black and bolts to the bottom of the turbo mounting flange and to the cylinder head).
-ryan
Thanks for the pics! This is what I'd like to accomplish I'd really like to keep my trunk, or at least the top half at the very least.
quote
Originally posted by AkursedX:
I have the turbo out right now so I can get a better pic of that 1st bracket. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow. I will say that this setup is rock-solid.
Thanks, I should have just bought your car.. now I've already rebuilt 90% of mine =[ at a much higher cost with no end in sight haha.
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09:25 PM
Apr 29th, 2011
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
I had over 20k miles on mine and a 40lb turbo... No issues.
Justins turbo was almost 70lbs, and it only had a small crack in the bottom of the rear manifold after a year or 2.
Relying on thin wall steel tubing (exhaust manifold) alone to support the weight of ANY turbo is asking for trouble. High exhaust temps (which you have when you are at full boost ) will glow your manifolds red and reduce the load/weight that thin wall steel tubing they are made out of can support. It isn't worth the risk of breaking something off and dragging your turbo down the road by the oil line when you can spend 1 hour (or maybe less) to add some supporting brackets. Steel is cheap and OE brackets are even cheaper at the junkyard. It's not like you're going to be adding 20 lbs of hardware; so I don't see why you are so reluctant to do the job at least half-ass right...
Next thing we know you'll be telling everyone to use stock N/A bottom ends with boost and...oh, that's right - your buddy Justin took your advice on that and ended up with a BROKEN connecting rod and trashed a perfectly good engine!
It's not like you're going to be adding 20 lbs of hardware; so I don't see why you are so reluctant to do the job at least half-ass right...
Next thing we know you'll be telling everyone to use stock N/A bottom ends with boost and...oh, that's right - your buddy Justin took your advice on that and ended up with a BROKEN connecting rod and trashed a perfectly good engine!
Originally posted by Darth Fiero: Next thing we know you'll be telling everyone to use stock N/A bottom ends with boost and...oh, that's right - your buddy Justin took your advice on that and ended up with a BROKEN connecting rod and trashed a perfectly good engine!
Wonderful threads like this and the one where justin blew his block apart are what convinced me to buy an l32 shortblock and get my turbo mounted properly when that time comes.
The Fbody 3800 intake works better for the turbo mounted like akursed has I take it since it dumps toward the passenger side of the car and leaves a lot of room to mount he turbo on the drivers side.
Which lower intake do I need for the Fbody 3800 upper intake? I'm thinking I'll sell the L26 upper/lower off and run the Fbody intake so I have some room to mount my turbo in the engine bay.
[This message has been edited by Steel (edited 05-09-2011).]
You need to keep the lower intake and upper intake together as a matched set. So, f-body lower and upper have to be used together.
quote
Wonderful threads like this and the one where justin blew his block apart are what convinced me to buy an l32 shortblock and get my turbo mounted properly when that time comes.
I'm glade I could help! I now have an L32 so we'll have to see what goes next!
Now I'm just battling a problem with breaking up in high boost. Nothing changed except for the bottom end and fuel pump. hmmm
yeah, if you're going to shell out that kind of money you can get two genuine used garrett turbos and rebuild them yourself or you could even get a good new large turbo.
I'm glade I could help! I now have an L32 so we'll have to see what goes next!
Now I'm just battling a problem with breaking up in high boost. Nothing changed except for the bottom end and fuel pump. hmmm
That's weird. My vote goes to the fuel pump. :P
I'm eager to hear how it works out because you are way ahead of me on getting it installed / tested. All of my stuff is still sitting on my shop floor next to an engine stand.
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12:00 AM
PFF
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darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
Okay I got a new PT67 over on ClubGP for a really good price I couldn't pass it up. I bought two of the ZZPerformance stainless power logs one for the rear and for the front. I'm now switching to the 4T65E-HD transmission instead of trying to use the Fiero's getrag manual transmission. Hopefully this is a smart move~
What size crossover do I need to make or have made? I don't have any idea what size tubing to use or what gauge it should be, I was mainly hoping to emulate AkursedX's setup for the crossover if I can somehow. Any good sources for pre-bent stainless that will work for this? I plan to mock it up myself and just tack it in a few areas then take it to a pro welder to be finished off properly.
Also I'm not sure what to do for the air to air intercooler either. Anybody have any ideas there? I'm kind of lost on how one could even be mounted at all without chopping out the trunk and then I'm not sure it would really get any type of overflow through it? Or would I need to install a radiator fan on it with a temp switch or something?
I am not sure, I have seen them float around for about $600 before.
I didn't even notice your post Dark my bad.. I scored a new one for $400 + a few hours of my time and use of my truck to move a guy into his new house so I couldn't pass that deal up.
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03:15 PM
May 22nd, 2011
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
Check out Darth Fiero's page. He has a nice A2A intercooler setup on his car. I would also look into making sure you are getting clean cool air to the air filter. I am running the IMSA quarter panels and have all the gaps sealed off, so I only get cool clean air from the side of the car.
I'm planning to put the air filter right where a the 1/4 scoop opening is. I never liked the hot air type of setups you sometimes see on cars not just on Fiero's. People put thee filter like right off the throttle body or the turbo and you know it has to get soaked with heat.
I need to figure out what size tubing to use for my crossover I'm waiting on ZZP to ship my power logs first.
Never been too concerned with getting "cold air" into the turbo. It just cranks it to 200*-300*F anyway. That's what intercoolers are for. More attention should be focused on inlet air restriction than anything else.
The problem with "cold air intakes" is the fact you are losing flow trying to tuck a tube somewhere in some random place that you can fit this tiny filter... when you could just slap a filter that will flow the amount of air you want with no restriction, (note most air filters are flow rated at xxx restriction).
The "cold air" you get from that cold air intake is only going to lower the temperature of the air going into your engine by 2-3 degrees, maybe... and due to the fact that a turbo works on mass flow, you will not gain or lose power based on the lower temperature intake air.
Okay I'm not really worried about the intake temps then.. I just took for granted cooler would be better. Seems like the Fiero engine bay is hot already so I'm worrying about cooking everything with the turbo in there now. I have other things to worry about though, like basically everything else the swap needs.. I don't know what to do with the axles, what IC to run or where to mount it even. Only pictures I've seen of turbo IC fiero's the IC is in place of the trunk or somehow shoved up under the car I can't really picture air flow there very well but I guess there aren't any other options short of like a huge side scoop or something?
I should probably make a build thread and get some pictures I'm going to need a lot more help than I originally was figuring that's for sure...
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09:55 PM
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
Akursedx runs an Air to Air intercooler. The last time I talked to him he seemed to wish it did a better job. But this was mostly when he was running it hard at the track. You can always spray co2 on the A2A to bring the temps waaay down. So you have some options to think about.
If you run E85 or race gas you wont need to worry about air temps as much.
Akursedx runs an Air to Air intercooler. The last time I talked to him he seemed to wish it did a better job. But this was mostly when he was running it hard at the track. You can always spray co2 on the A2A to bring the temps waaay down. So you have some options to think about.
If you run E85 or race gas you wont need to worry about air temps as much.
My a/a intercooler is pretty much maxed out at race boost levels (18-19psi), but was a bit of a compromise. I only got a 3" thick core because clearance issues with the a/c lines. And if I had it mounted any lower, it would sit a bit below the cradle crossmember and therefore be much more susceptible to road debris. I'm pretty sure a 4" core could be installed it you didn't run an a/c compressor.
I have no concrete numbers on the efficiency of my ic setup as I don't have a pre and post intercooler temp sensor. It's a 26x7x3 core with puller fans on top and an airdam to force air into it. It does allow for ~13 psi on 93 octane and 18-19psi on 100 octane.
------------------ '88 GT- 3800 Turbo 11.367@121.03mph FOR SALE GM Tuners