Door handle popped off this morning. I see the two studs on the back (One still connected). The question I have is how do you remove the handle (correctly), what holds it in, and proper reinstall.

Inside the doorskin there is a metal inner structure it is bolted to, Held on by two nuts. I think the doorskin needs to be removed to get to them, but you might be able to get to them with just the inner door panel off.

If you have tiny hands, you will have no problem getting the nuts on. There are two, like Mike said, that are attached to the posts on the door handle. Fiero Store sells them, and perhaps your local help section at the auto parts store may. They are a stamped style nut, with a rubber washer glued onto them. The nut is self expanding to fit onto the two door handle studs.

I have replaced mine in the past, and it is possible to do it with the skin on, but EXTREMELY difficult. I had use a set of long nosed pliers to press the nut onto the stud, then a 10mm ratchet box end wrench to get them tight. An honest, royal, pain in the a$$. But doable.

Good luck,

Tony

According to my Haynes manual:

1. Remove door trim panel.
Pry off forward screw cover, remove forward bezel mounting screw
Pry off rear screw cover, remove rear bezel mounting screw
Pull the remote control handle bezel away from the door panel.
Using a flat bladed too such as a screwdriver, insert the blade between the backside of the locking knob and the lock rod and pry the knob loose.
Remove the remote control handle bezel
Pry off screw cover from armrest, remove the armrest mounting screws.
Pry along the edges of the door trim panel until it is free of all pop fasteners.
2. Remove the water deflector, trimming around the non removable parts A flat bladed putty knife can be used to release the sealer around the edges.
3. Remove the nuts at the door handle.
4. Remove the lock cylinder retainer and outside locking rod.
5. Remove the handle assembly.

Like that?

So the studs have threads on them...If they do, or in my case did, I guess I will need new handles!

The stamped nuts cut their own threads in the soft metal of the studs.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 01-18-2011).]

X2 for Dodgerunner's explanation. No threads cut into the handle's two studs. The nuts do the job.

This is one of those jobs that I've often heard how difficult it is... and it turns out it isn't IMHO.

Maybe I just got lucky, but I found that replacing the exterior door handle on my '86 GT was relatively easy once the interior door panel was removed. The exterior door skin does not need to be removed.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-19-2011).]

Okay...I have an old door I will take apart, On my handle that popped off I saw the stud looked like it had scores for something like a C clip. I know I heard whatever it was fall in the door. I plan on putting the old door in the living room for the day so it stays warm (wife will love that) and then dig in after ythe kids go to bed. Use the parts I find to repair my handle or order a new handle off Fleabay. Cheers fo rthe help guys!

No C-clips. Like Dodgerunner said, the studs are smooth and the stamped steel nuts cut "threads" into the studs. They're not really threads per se, but function as such.

Tnx guys. I pulled an old door out last night and dug in. Man! The farther back "nut" was pretty difficult to get to! I took both off and see what you guys mean about solid post that sheet "nuts" cut into. I am hoping that when I take my DD door panel apart that the stud didn't break off any. It doesn't appear to have but I will know more whan I can compare the two in size by viewing them from the interior side of the door. I'll take care of it on Sat, take pictures of teh process, and post them for other learners like myself.

Try this. I have done it this way two times:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/094822.html

I just replaced mine with a cheapie like the above poster. I ended up cutting 6 mm X 1.0 threads onto the studs and using nuts to hold them on. Worked pretty slick.

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1985 Fiero GT 2.8 with 4 speed
1999 Regal GS L36 VS CAM Intercooled / E85 12.96@ 108 street tires

Great tips. I may combine the two solutions for long term durability! Nice thread link as well. I will be incorparating that one!!!!

[This message has been edited by johnyrottin (edited 01-21-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Fiero GS: I just replaced mine with a cheapie like the above poster. I ended up cutting 6 mm X 1.0 threads onto the studs and using nuts to hold them on. Worked pretty slick.

Good idea. Wish I had thought of that back then.
-Joe

I think I will try taking the inner door panel off this time. Darned new nuts fell off. So I am thinking of putting some putty or something on the studs to keep them on.

Not sure if I am going this route

[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 11-03-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: The stamped nuts cut their own threads in the soft metal of the studs.

Yes that is what they are supposed to do, but I can tell they dont.

quote Originally posted by solotwo: Yes that is what they are supposed to do, but I can tell they dont.

Wrong size nuts?
tap a bit with a hammer on the middle of nut to tighten up the hole size.

The biggest problem that I had, that no one clarified, is that the clip that holds the rod to the door handle, swings back... toward the inner skin. then to release the rod out, you just pull.