Getting started right away on this swap. Just got my ECM in today Thank you MulletProofMonk. went down to the yard today and scored the coil pack, knock sensor, distributer plug/oil pump drive, evap purge solenoid and all the connectors with wire for fifty bucks. Going to have to get the crank sensor new.
I'm doing this swap in my 88 gt. I already have the 3.4 pr engine in there so I'm going to do the DIS. I've read pages and pages of Darth Fiero's archived thread. First thing I'm going to do is get a hold of Darth Fiero and see if he will program my memcal for me and check to see if the knock sensor I got will work with this memcal.
I believe I'm going to ditch the egr. I saw an electric egr in the yard but I wasn't sure at the time if that was the correct one. In northern califronia you don't have to get your car smogged every two years, only have to do it if you sell it so not worried about that.
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08:36 PM
PFF
System Bot
Hulki U. My-BFF Member
Posts: 5949 From: Back home in East Berlin, PA Registered: Apr 2008
I have a 7730 ECM sitting on the shelf in my shop, but I just haven't convinced myself to do it yet. I would be upset if I rendered my Fiero useless doing this swap.
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08:54 PM
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
I read alot about unpinnig the wires. Wanted to share that I found the retaining clip that you pull off the harness works really well to unpin the wires. Couple of pics here to show what I mean.
[This message has been edited by fierofinder (edited 03-01-2011).]
Originally posted by fierofinder: I'm doing this swap in my 88 gt. I already have the 3.4 pr engine in there so I'm going to do the DIS. I've read pages and pages of Darth Fiero's archived thread.
This should be a no-brainer, but make sure that you use his pinout for DIS... I think that most people link to the non-DIS in the threads. It would suck to pin it out and then have to redo everything...
Originally posted by fierofinder: I believe I'm going to ditch the egr. I saw an electric egr in the yard but I wasn't sure at the time if that was the correct one. In northern califronia you don't have to get your car smogged every two years, only have to do it if you sell it so not worried about that.
If you do the digital EGR, you need an adaptor plate or you have to fabricate one. Just an FYI.
I'm definetely excited to do this. Can't wait to see if it solves my problems. With this swap I'm also planning on relocating the battery to the front and mounting the coil pack where the battery is now. Wasn't sure about the plug wires being long enough though. May need new ones to do that.
thought about there, but wanted to get as far away form direct heat as I could. I keep my fiero garaged and don't drive it when its raining, but I was thinking about fabing a cover for it anyhow. The mem-cal went out to sinister performance today.Going to get some roller rockers for it here soon so that Darth Fiero can tune for that as well.
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12:23 AM
Pyrthian Member
Posts: 29569 From: Detroit, MI Registered: Jul 2002
http://www.compperformanceg...y_Code=CHEV466Rocker http://www.compperformanceg...y_Code=CHEV466Rocker Was hoping to get this answered here so I don't have to start another thread. Was wondering if these rockers would work with the 3.4? It just says V6 200-262. It doesnt specify 60deg or 90deg engines. The 3.4 is 207, I have the camaro heads on it but don't think that matters. I figure if anything I will have to get different covers because I have fiero ones. Also would they require any machining to work? I do have a mild cam already in the engine. Not sure the specs of it, but I passed california smog with it. I may want to go with the 1.5. I was just interested in these ones because they cost a lot less than Cranes gold roller rockers. Sorry one other thing. Some of the rockers say self aligning and some non self aligning. whats better?
[This message has been edited by fierofinder (edited 03-04-2011).]
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11:52 PM
PFF
System Bot
Mar 5th, 2011
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
Called up comp cams today. The guy said he needed to know wether the cam was a hydraulic flat tap it or hydraulic roller. I didn't know. He said regardless the only ones he had for that engine were roller tip and the ref. number started with 16. Didn't find any sets on there site that started with that number. He also said only the ones that said 173 to 207. Didn't see any like that. Just roller tips that said for 173 V6. So I tried summits websight and got these http://www.summitracing.com...ne+Size%7c3.4L%2f207 Full roller rockers that say for 3.4 camaro applications. I saw these ones on comp cams website but the number was different. So I'm a little confused. First of does anyone know about the cam?
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01:32 PM
Mar 15th, 2011
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
Got my mem-cal back from sinister performance yesterday. Still working on the wiring. I'm stuck on inj A and B control. A is listed as green but that terminal is blue and B is green but listed as blue, so I'm not sure to ignore the color difference, or make sure blue goes to blue and green goes to green. Trying to drill out the spot welds on the battery tray so I can remove it, but is giving me a hard time. Today I plugged the cold start injector holes. I know there were some questions on what to use for this, so here is what I used. For the fuel rail I used a short bolt. 12mm with 1.25 pitch and used the original washer that has the rubber ring. For the lower intake I used a 7/8 freeze plug and some silicone. The plug hammered in there nice and tight, perfect fit. Here are some pics.
Any one have an idea on the wires let me know.
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08:17 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Yes. On the starter solenoid's smaller terminal there is a large purple wire and then a smaller wire with a fuseable link. You can take off the smaller wire with the fuseable link. That sent power up to the cold start switch, which then sent power if closed to the cold start injector, during cranking.
The large purple wire comes from the key via the safety switch so that one is needed however.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 03-19-2011).]
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10:04 PM
DavidM Member
Posts: 73 From: Arlington TX USA Registered: Oct 2009
The one connection that took me a while to figure out on my 7730 swap was the coolant fan, which the 7730 controls directly unlike the original setup where it was controlled by a thermo switch in the block. In his excellent wiring chart, Darth uses one of the old egr control wires to connect to the 7730 that comes out near the same location that the coolant fan relay wire connected to the thermo switch. Once these 2 are connected near the top of the engine, then the ecm controls the fan. As a test, the ecm turns the fan ON when put in diag mode (A&B jumped), so you can know you got it right.
Darth has me installing a heated O2 sensor right now, to speed up the closed loop time and help with cold tuning.
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11:19 PM
Mar 18th, 2011
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
got my crank sensor today. oreilly auto parts couldn't order the pigtails for it so I called the dealership and thay wanted $52. So I decided to check out other connectors in the fiero for one that might fit. I found that one of the connectors for the distributer/ignition module was a perfect fit, and didnt need it there anymore. Just thought I would share that with the everyone in case any one ever has the same issue.
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08:58 PM
Mar 19th, 2011
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
How do I go about removing freeze plugs for the crank and knock sensors. where the knock sensor goes, there is a freeze plug in there deep instead of a threaded plug. I guessing I need to drop the oil pan.
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06:35 PM
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
That worked great on the one for the crank sensor but the other one didn't budge and Im worried to hammer at it to hard. There is one other plug that has the same thread pattern down right next to the crank sensor. This one has a screwed in plug so i can remove it fine, just not sure if the knock sensor will work as well in a different spot. Any one got ideas let me know.
The hole for the knock sensor is a threaded plug... BTW, do not use Teflon tape on the knock sensor. If you buy a new one it has a red-brown paste on it that is the thread sealer.
Originally posted by Hudini: On your 2nd question, here is a picture of the stock 2.8L block, rear side as mounted in the Fiero. There is a plug in the middle of the water jacket that can be removed for the knock sensor:
If I remember right, this is what you are looking for. I did one on a manual and it was cake. The one I did on my automatic was horrible to do because the transmission is in the way...
The one that has the freeze plug is a threaded hole, I have no idea why they put a freeze plug in there. This hole is where I've seen the knock sensor installed in a couple of different photos. There is one other hole with the correct thread size that is down closer to the crank sensor. Since there is a threaded plug in this one it would be much easier to do, but just want to make sure it will work like it is suppose to there.
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11:41 PM
Mar 21st, 2011
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
The picture phonedawgz posted shows it exactly. A is where I thought I seen it installed in other threads. B is where I like to put it to make my life easier. Since the picture shows it there, then I'm guessing it should be fine.
I've gotten some progress on wiring in the 7730. I have everything repinned and the extra connections taken care of at the C203 connector and ECM connectors. The evap purge solenoid is wired in as well as the knock sensor. All the wires except for crank sensor wires are hooked up at the coil pack. Need to relocate the battery still and finish wrapping up wires. Here are some pics.
I'm putting the coil pack on the fire wall under the rear window behind where the battery was. Instead of running new wires over to where the distributer was I pulled them back through so all I'm left with is these two wires.
Crank and knock sensor installed. When I pulled the plug for the knock sensor, no coolant was coming out, so I took needle nose pliers and fished out some rtv sealant.
Nice new plugs clearing out the clutter of the fan switch and cold start sensor.
Took my time on all my connections to twist them together correctly and to solder everything.
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09:45 PM
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
Look how cleaned up things are looking. I removed the bracket the held the ignition coil and had the loop for hoisting the engine. If I ever need to hoist it I can easily throw it back on, but for now it looks good without it.
Local fabricating shop made a couple of plates for me. This one here for the egr. The other one for the egr tube going into the upper intake. Was thinking it would be real cool to get the fiero emblem engraved in this plate.
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10:18 PM
Mar 30th, 2011
outlawfiero17 Member
Posts: 1450 From: sacramento, CA Registered: Jul 2009
It wouldn't pass visual inspection unless you got a shop that will look the other way. Should pass emissions testing though.
Not worried about smogged, as it is already smogged and I don't plan on selling it. Smog is only required when there is a transfer in ownership here in far north CA.
[This message has been edited by fierofinder (edited 03-30-2011).]
Originally posted by fierofinder: Called up comp cams today. The guy said he needed to know wether the cam was a hydraulic flat tap it or hydraulic roller. I didn't know....First of does anyone know about the cam?
It's a hydraulic flat tappet cam --- not a hydraulic rolller cam.
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05:57 AM
dsnover Member
Posts: 1668 From: Cherryville, PA USA Registered: Apr 2006
Originally posted by fierofinder: It wouldn't pass visual inspection unless you got a shop that will look the other way. Should pass emissions testing though.
You could just get some long bolts and attach the old EGR on top of the block off plate if someone was really worried about it... Then you would get by the visual inspection.
Thats a great idea for the egr. Still would have an issue with the distributer with the DIS setup. I guess you could leave in a dummy distributer with wires just for looks, but don't think it would fly.
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02:41 PM
outlawfiero17 Member
Posts: 1450 From: sacramento, CA Registered: Jul 2009
Originally posted by fierofinder: Thats a great idea for the egr. Still would have an issue with the distributer with the DIS setup. I guess you could leave in a dummy distributer with wires just for looks, but don't think it would fly.
I doubt they are smart enough to look for a distributor, but if they do just say "You must not know Fieros, they have DIS in the later models. It's okay, I thought the same thing at first." A little smack-down and then a compliment... That compliment almost sounds like a second smack-down (because it is) so you can't say it with sarcasm. LOL.
Originally posted by fierofinder: The 3.4 is 207, I have the camaro heads on it but don't think that matters. I figure if anything I will have to get different covers because I have fiero ones. Also would they require any machining to work?
No.
You also can reuse your Fiero's V6 valve covers with your pushrod 3.4L engine swap: Most people probably don't know this, but the Camaro 3.4L V6 cylinder heads and the Fiero 2.8L V6 cylinder heads, are IDENTICAL.
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05:09 PM
Apr 2nd, 2011
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007