I was having a good weekend of progress on my 88 GT until I tried to replace the rack bushing. I have a Rodney replacement bushing for my 88 and am replacing the old bushing. I have dismantled the tie rod inner and am at the bushing. The catch is, that this 88 has what appears to be a steel bushing, not the plastic one. So, even though the rack is fairly rust free, I can't get the old bushing to budge. It was held in by a snap ring, and that came out fine. I heated the end of the rack at the bushing area, used PB Blaster , all to no avail. Is there a secret to removing the metal bushing. I emailed Rodney, in hopes he has an answer, but,hoping for other viewpoints as well.
I did get the oil changed, and the lowering ball joints installed and welded, but still a little frustrated. Thanks for any help..

You might need to drill/tap it for some bolts and use a steering wheel puller to pull it out.

I know it has been nearly a month and a half since I asked the question about the rack bushing in my 88. After a nice vacation to Texas for a family wedding, I figured it was time to attack this problem again. I found that there was no getting the steel bushing out without removing the rack. That went really well since this is a no rust car. But, even though there was no rust, even after welding several pieces of metal to the bushing and then trying to knock it out with a 4 pound mall, no results. Well,I figured it was time to learn about steering rack disassembly 101. So, thanks to the search for "steering rack", I spent this morning reading every one of the 30 pages of results. Lots of info, but the consensus seemed to be, take the rack apart and drive the bushing out with a steel rod. So with great confidence, I disassembled the rack and tried to drive the bushing out. Well that didn't work. So off to the local auto parts guy to get a thicker steel rod to better drive it with. While at the store, my local machinist friend was in for some parts, too. I told him my problem and asked if maybe he would like to remove it. His answer- just take a dremel and cut a groove thru it and it will relieve the pressure and pop right out with a smack. I thought Dremel- man that would be slow. So, I got my Makita sawsal with a steel cutting blade and it fit thru the bushing ok. I lined it up with one of the three slots that are in the bushing, so as not to cut into the rack tube when I had cut thru the bushing. In about a minute, I had cut thru the bushing, grabbed the steel rod and a hammer and hit it once-plink- right out onto the floor it fell. Well after that success- I started cleanup and reassembly. I used the factory manual measurements to clock the rack. Hope I did that correctly. Everything on the rack is back together with the new Rodney bushing-ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY!
One question though- what is the torque setting for the locknut on the pinion ? I did not see it shown in the 88 manual-could have missed it.
This project has taught me much more than I ever wanted to know about an 88 steering rack. You can't be faint of heart- but it's not really that hard if you follow the how too' s
with pictures that some of you have written. Thanks for all the documentation.
Half the hurdle has been cleared- now to get it back in correctly and then a new alignment!
By the way- someone in one of the writeups had said - Just use a dremel and cut thru the bushing! Ofcourse I knew there had to be an easier way-not always.
Thanks again to this forum for all the help and information. Bryan

I also had a steel bushing in my rust free 88 ( Florida car) and that SOB was stuck in there like you. I too ended up disassembled the rack and pounded it out from the opposite side.

I wouldn't use a steering wheel puller as that means you would have to apply alot of pressure on the rack and the pinion's teeth. Also that steel bushing is somewhat tapered on the end and you would have to use pretty small bolts, they will break well before that bushing decides to move.

quote Originally posted by bjc 350: One question though- what is the torque setting for the locknut on the pinion ? I did not see it shown in the 88 manual-could have missed it.

Someone a long time ago posted some information on setting rack pinions. From what I remember: With the front wheels off the ground set it for no lash. It would certainly be better is the tie rods are not connected to do this. I'm thinking you should set it so there is no pressure on the pinion. Just enough to get zero lash. This would apply to a new rack. Since the rack wears in the center one should turn the rack to one of the outer ends to do this setting. Maybe 1/2 turn from center would be a good choice as you are on the opposite side of the pinion gear teeth. Once rotated back to center there may be some play but there is nothing you can do about that.

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Can a dampner shock be put on the 88 rack somehow?

Early 88 racks came with a steel bushing. Later ones came with a plastic bushing. If you have the steel one, the likelihood of it being worn out is slim.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Can a dampner shock be put on the 88 rack somehow?

88's don't have a steering dampner, I don't think anyone makes an add-on because they don't need them.

my steering rack had the metal bushing in it too, and it was a pain to get out. Mine was rusted in and the steering rack was full of rocks so I ended up not using it, but this is how I got mine out,

quote I set the bracket on the side of the chair so there was nothing below the bottom of the rack and used an old socket extension and hammered it out from the back side, popped right out after a couple of smacks. The rag was in there to hold the extension over to the side at an angle so I didn't have to try to hold the extension over and the rack with one hand and end up smacking my fingers :P

I don't know if this is the best way to do it, but it worked for me. It might mess up the rack if you had to keep hitting it, mine came pretty easy after the first time I hit it with a hammer.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/116547.html

[This message has been edited by Blacksheep (edited 04-03-2012).]

Thanks for the replys guys. It seems quite a number of people have had a fairly difficult time removing the steel bushing. Yes, the bushing was worn badly enough to create a pretty serious clunking on any road but the smoothest. There was no serious driveability problem, though. Before I removed the rack,I checked for up and down play in the rack end , so yes there was some pretty serious wear. The new bushing once installed, has taken all the play out. Jelly2m8, I was actually looking for the torque setting on the pinion shaft "hex lock nut". I did set the rack bearing pad lock nut at 50#, however. Perhaps there is no torque setting for the "pinion bearing hex locknut" I sure can't come accross it anyway. Thanks again for the help.

Bloozberry posted this in my other thread, it has some specs on it.


EDIT: Should probably not post until I've fully read what was typed.... looks like that doesn't have what you were asking for either only the specs on the one you already knew. Oh well, maybe this will be useful for someone else who finds your post later
My guess would be since there is no spec listed and it is listed as a lock nut that there isn't a specific torque setting, but I'm no expert.

[This message has been edited by Blacksheep (edited 04-04-2012).]

Success! After replacing the bushing and reassemling the rack, I finally had time to put the rack back in the car. It took a little longer than planned, because I had clocked the rack using the wrong flat on the pinion. I had not verified which flat was the correct one when I removed the rack. So, I assumed, {you know what that means} that the long one cut to the end of the pinion was the correct one. Wrong , the correct flat was the one opposite the uncut {still round} side of the shaft. Once I reclocked it, all went well. Drove the car and everything works as it should and no more front end clunk.. I will need to get it aligned now. So with the new Rodney bushing, new Lowering ball joints and longer end links, I think the major projects on my 88 are now complete- at least until the next one comes up. Thanks too all, one more time. I could not be a backyard mechanic without this forum.