So I've changed some panels on my car and now have the multi-color car look going. I realize there's no real good substitute for a proper paint job, which I will eventually do when I have the time, space, and materials to do it. I hope that won't be too far off from now but until then I feel that I really do need to make the car a single color. In my experience, having multiple colors attracts extra attention (like from those that give tickets) and personally it just bothers me.

So, I'm not asking how I can make my car look good without doing a proper paint job. What I am asking is what is my best option for making the car a single color until I can do a nice paint job? I realize that anything I add will have to be completely taken off later creating more prep work but so long as I don't have to completely strip off even the paint from the factory I am okay with that. Here are some options I have thought of and a summary of my thoughts on them.

1) Paint shop -- To my knowledge, I don't have any nearby locations that do painting for a reasonable price. Plus, most of the cheap paint jobs I have seen done just don't seem to be worth it.

2) Rattle can -- I know it doesn't last long, looks horrible, and would all have to come off but it seems like a fairly cheap option.

3) Color matched body paint in a rattle can -- I've tried the color matched paint from NAPA in the past and have been extremely unsatisfied. In my experience the paint just doesn't ever completely cure the way I think it should and remains somewhat soft. Plus it only matches so well to 20+ year old paint.

4) Roll on paint job -- Not really interested in the amount of time it would take and the problems it would create later

5) Proper home paint job -- I don't have the tools or the proper place or the supplies right now. I want to do it eventually but lack everything I need at this time. Now, I do know somebody that I can borrow the tools from but from what I have read they are low quality or just barely acceptable for painting. That still leaves me without a place, supplies, and experience. It seems doable but I don't want to spend a lot of time/money learning to get it right at this time. I'll be fine with it later but things have been far too hectic lately. If I could find a really good deal on some paint and could put together a cheap paint booth then I may consider this idea but I'm not sure how feasible this is.

6) Just live with it -- I hate this option but its the cheapest and the easiest. It just would really really bother me and I don't need any help getting tickets as it is.


EDIT: Don't know how that extra letter got into the title but oh well

[This message has been edited by GraterFang (edited 03-27-2012).]

If it's really bothering you, and it seems it is, your best option is to go with the colour match in a rattle can. It may be far from perfect, but probably a far cry from the calico car you seem to have from the sound of things. If you take your time and mask it right, it will look reasonable enough to get you by until you can do it up right. Just my 2c.....

DONT rattle can or roll it. You will pay a lot to have it all removed to do a proper paint job. No reputable shop will do a good paint job over either. If you must have a single color, PROPERLY sand the entire car like you were doing a good paint job and put on a coat of 2 part primer. Dont rely on any shop to sand it before they just primer it...you have no way of knowing what they did. 2 part primer is waterproof for an extended period, even if its a couple of years before you paint it. To me this is the one time I do recommend 2 part primer. Other types absorb moisture. I just gave an estimate to a guy to paint his 64 plymouth. Another shop had did all the body work and primered it all over. They didnt sand anything except where they did the body work. I told him add an extra $600 just to sand off all they primer they put on. If I painted over it, there was no guarantee it wouldnt fall off. Just sticking masking tape on it and pulling it off, pulled off their primer down to the original paint.

I've heard the theory on why not to roll it but does rattle can also create so many problems? I thought it would just be a case of sanding off all of the rattle can paint.

Does this also apply to the color matched paints you can buy that they'll put in a can for you?

Also, what primer would you recommend? I don't have the means to apply anything at this time without a can or brush. I'm assuming it would all have to come off later as well?

[This message has been edited by GraterFang (edited 03-27-2012).]

,,I have done excellent jobs with a rattle can
white is easy to match
Red?? go to Big Lots buy one can of red devil red,see how it matches
if you plan to add a regular paint job later paint it thin,just do it the same color
My front facia was painted with rattle can 3 years ago,, look outstanding ,,untill I dribbled paint all over it 10 months ago,HAS RUNS NOW,,I ruined my hood shaking a grass covered sheet on it,, but it matches and looks fairly good unless you look close,, I sanded out the paint shops orange peel & sprayed away..
rattle can paint is soft,, you have to let it harden & avoid using rubbing compound,,
just wax it !!
you can eyeball different rattle cans untill you find one close to the color you want
use large garbage bags for tire covers ,,protect area as well as you can,with sheets,large cardboard ect. I have a carport and close it in with sheet & large refrigerator cardboard,,wet down lawn

NAPA sells an aerosol can that has a glass bottle on it, that unscrews and you can add any paint you want to it and then you can spray it like a rattle can. I went to advanced auto and bought the dupli color paint brand that match my car. That paint is aleady mixed and ready to to spray. Worked great. Thanks

http://shop.advanceautopart...3&utm_content=value4

Normally I'd recommend properly prepping the car & shooting it with PPG epoxy primer. But you don't have the means, & if you do that you might as well paint it too.
Two things I CAN'T BELIEVE (!) about this thread: Roger is recommending something other than lacquer primer , & what I'm about to recommend: spray can the off color panels . Depending on the color (white? black? red?), you should be able to get spray paint somewhat close. Scuff the panels with a red scotchbrite & shoot them. It'll be the easiest to sand it all back off when you're ready to do it right.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

Most of the car is white so I guess I'm lucky there. The rest of the majority is silver. After that red and tan.

So if I spray can the off panels, other than sanding the rattle can paint its not going to create extra prep work that I normally wouldn't have to do later correct?

[This message has been edited by GraterFang (edited 03-27-2012).]

If you don't go nuts, it will be no different than taking off any other paint. I did it to my old '68 Firebird, and when I took it to the shop for paint they had no problem with it. Take your time and do it carefully and you shouldn't have a problem

How about vehicle wrap?

quote Originally posted by Austrian Import: How about vehicle wrap?

You know I hadn't actually considered that. I don't know much about it to be honest but from what I do know its something I actually might be able to do with the resources I have on hand. I imagine its a time consuming project though but perhaps still worth looking into.

If you want it all one color, but not worried about it having a shine for now, I would go rattle can primer. Will be much easier to sand off later then enamal paint or anything with clear sprayed over it.
Just my 2 cents.

Kevin

edit to add, I would not do this on a metal car as the can primer could draw moisture and could start rust under the primer, but not a worry on the fiero.

Kevin

[This message has been edited by Lambo nut (edited 03-28-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Lambo nut: If you want it all one color, but not worried about it having a shine for now, I would go rattle can primer. Will be much easier to sand off later then enamal paint or anything with clear sprayed over it. Just my 2 cents. Kevin

+1... gray is one color.

WRAP the car. It's cheap and makes the car what ever color.... I've already started on mine.

quote Originally posted by jwrape: WRAP the car. It's cheap and makes the car what ever color.... I've already started on mine.

Wow! Looks pretty good. How does this stuff wrap around contours and corners? Do you heat it up after like shrink wrap?

Another cheap solution is to use PLASTI DIP. IF the clear coat is not peeling, it can be removed in a few minutes with your fingers or a pressure washer. It is basically rubber in a spray can. It doesn't harm the surface. I change the look of my Camaro every few months with it. I have had it on different parts of the car for months at a time with no fading. It is about $6 a can at Lowe's, Home depot. Ace hardware carries a few colors besides the standard black. (white, red, and blue, I think). Those are around $10 each.
The roof of my car took 2 cans, the hood was almost 3. If you want a semi gloss finish, hold the can a few inches away and go slow. For a matte, or satin finish, pull back to about 10 inches. If you get a run, or don't like it, just wait a few minutes til it dries and peel it off like skin on a bad sunburn. It will withstand an automated car wash if it is touchless.
Here are a few pics.


All the black on my car is Plastidip.
The grille is painted with white plasidip.
I went a little crazy letting my daughter paint the front end one night.





When you tape off any areas that you don't want to paint, use the blue painters tape, and remove it IMMEDIATELY!. Once the rubber sets up (2 minutes tops), the tape will pull up the rubber. Take it off while it is still wet for a nice edge. On large panels, start in the middle, and hit the edges last so you can remove the masking tape easier.
Also, if you use several light coats, you get a rough , sandpaper like finish, almost flat.
One or two heavy coats will look similar to a satin wrap.

Hope this helps!

If you paint any designs or stripes, you will have a slight rough edge. I use vinyl pin stripe (red in the pics) to keep it from peeling and give it a cleaner look. The pinstripe also peel off easily, even after several months.


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11 Camaro SS/RS
86 Fiero GT
03 Silverado 3500 Duramax! (Stacked, Tuned, Mean as Hell)
07 Suburban LT2
09 Avalanche LT3

quote Originally posted by pontiackid86: i'm sure i could fly a plane no problem.

[This message has been edited by Carver1 (edited 03-28-2012).]

Typical rattle can paint is not compatible with real automotive paint. Most times it will just bubble up under real paint. Almost all of them are just plain synthetic enamel. In my opinion any rattle can paint has to be removed completely to put real paint on it. I do know a guy that took it all off of his rattle painted car with rags and thinner...he got it all off, but what a mess. Ive tried all the store sold pressure can systems where you can put your own paint in it and it has a canister and a compressed air capsule to spray it. Ive found theyre only good for small parts or things like detailing an engine. They are not consistant enough to say spray a door panel. Hobbiests use them to paint models rather than buying any kind of compressor. All ive tried are comparable to trying to paint with an airbrush. If you never used an airbrush the comparison would be like painting a room in your house with a 1" paint brush.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 03-28-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Carver1: Another cheap solution is to use PLASTI DIP. IF the clear coat is not peeling, it can be removed in a few minutes with your fingers or a pressure washer.

What an interesting idea. For being so easy it actually looks quite nice.

However, I do have a few spots where the paint is chipped or cracked a little (like the roof). Also, my front bumper is especially bad and probably has very little good clear coat left on it. I wonder how it would do with that?

I get a kick out of them calling the flat 'snowplow' nose the aero nose. Its about as aerodynamic as a semi truck. The original pointy shark nose has less drag.

Driver, Ive always said 2 part primer was ok for a car that was not going to be painted for a long time and exposed to the weather. Lacquer does absorb moisture. Thats not a problem for me because I go right to the paint job within a day or two of primer and its never outside except for a few hours at the most without paint. In his case, he could leave it like that for a few years. Wouldnt affect me, because I know im going to reprime it to sand for paint anyway. I never put new paint on 2 part primer any more...always cost me a lot to fix afterward. I had to strip a whole corvette down to original paint, redo all the previous body work, primer and repaint it again when the 2 part primer bubbled up under the urathane after I painted, sanded and buffed it. I ate that labor and material. Cost me more than I made. Lesson learned.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 03-28-2012).]

True. Doesn't the aero nose create less upforce in the front though? I like the original coupe style bumperpad nose myself. Its the later style coupe noses that I don't care for much.

[This message has been edited by GraterFang (edited 03-28-2012).]

quote Originally posted by GraterFang: I'm definitely going to be looking into this now. I'm also interested how hard it would be to get the contours right on places like the front Aero bumper. I'll definitely be watching your progress on this.

Check out this car http://novascotia.kijiji.ca...S-W0QQAdIdZ359321006 Not my car and I have not seen it up close. Looks like 3M carbon fiber vinyl wrap is about $6 per square foot. http://www.carbonfiberfilm....a-iq8CFZNV7AodvFbb8g supposed to last for four years outside and 12 years inside.

A little more info from the above website "it has a 4 year vertical lifespan outdoors (3 years in desert sun). This is all dependent on UV light exposure, so if the material is installed on a car that is parked in a garage during the day or a show car that is mostly indoors, you can expect the material to last longer. It’s water resistant, so rain and snow won’t be a problem. Horizontal outdoor decoration is not recommended by 3M as exposure to maximum sunlight and environmental conditions can cause color change, loss of gloss, chalking and premature failure. Also please keep in mind that some of the lighter colors don’t have the same rated durability. " Seems like putting the wrap on horizontal surfaces such as hoods and roof is not recommended.

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1984 Fiero, Black notchback, 355 SBC, 4 speed

[This message has been edited by Driver_WT (edited 03-28-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Gokart: Wow! Looks pretty good. How does this stuff wrap around contours and corners? Do you heat it up after like shrink wrap?

Any input on this "wrap" product? Vendor, ease of use, cost?

Thanks Carver1!
Looks like a really cool product and I haven't heard about it before. Btw.: what happens when the clear coat is peeling/shot/sandy to the touch? What happens when the surface is rough?

This may be a solution for me until I can afford a proper wrap/paint job. It would let me test a satin finish, and see if I'd be willing to put up with it long term. Minus the crazy expense of getting a satin paint job. (satin vs matte: Satin has a sheen to it, Matte doesn't.)

The plastidip just peels off, so if the surface is smooth, it is easy. If the clear coat is peeling or paint is cracked, it will still come off. You may have to hit it with the pressure washer. It is very durable until you remove it. It's fun to test out new ideas that don't require a ton of cash, or permanent changes.

Very neat. I think I'm going to check it out and give it a try.

quote Originally posted by Carver1: Another cheap solution is to use PLASTI DIP.

I got a can of this stuff today to play around with.

Man, though, is it just me or does this stuff really smell like smooshed ants?

[This message has been edited by GraterFang (edited 03-31-2012).]

rattle can will work wonders if you do it right. prep, sand, prime, sand, clean, paint, sand, paint.

Satin green. about 20 cans or so. plus about another 15 cans of primer.

Rob

[This message has been edited by qwikgta (edited 04-02-2012).]

Wow, for being done with rattle cans that looks very nice!

The bad thing about rattle can jobs looking good, is trying to get a nice consistant gloss. With flat or matt paint, its not a problem. I still strongly recommend removing ALL of it when doing a real paint job.