How to oil prime a create motor.
I'm not saying I know the right way - this is just what I came up with so input is the order of the day.
This would be for a motor that does not have an external way to spin the oil pump other then the starter.

a. Unplug coil pack
b. remover spark plugs, if not already removed.
c. Keeping an eye on the oil pressure gauge( if motor installed and hooked up),
crank the engine with spark plugs out and ignition disabled for 45 seconds!!

[color=#FF0000][/color]***This is where I could use some help***
If the motor is out of the car – how do you know if pressure was achieved?

Oil pressure should climb after 10-15 seconds.
If there is no oil pressure after 15 seconds stop and check the gauge, fittings, lines, etc.
After adequate oil pressure is attained reinstall spark plugs and hook up coil pack.
You are now ready to start and break in your new engine.

Thanks in advance for your input

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Red 1988 GT 5 speed
Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered
LQ1 powered

All that cranking is wiping the lube off of your cam and lifters.

I use a priming tool that is made from an old distributor.
The teeth must be removed from the gear. All the hardware (pickup coil, ICM, etc.) is removed from the top, and a nut welded to the top of the shaft (or flats filed on the top of the shaft.)

Insert into the distributor hole, and spin with a drill motor and socket until oil comes out of the pushrods at the front (far end) of the engine.
It will take several minutes. Long enough to get the drill good and hot.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 04-10-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Raydar: All that cranking is wiping the lube off of your cam and lifters. I use a priming tool that is made from an old distributor. The teeth must be removed from the gear. All the hardware (pickup coil, ICM, etc.) is removed from the top, and a nut welded to the top of the shaft (or flats filed on the top of the shaft.) Insert into the distributor hole, and spin with a drill motor and socket until oil comes out of the pushrods at the front (far end) of the engine. It will take several minutes. Long enough to get the drill good and hot.

I've done this before also. Works very well (assuming you have a distributor).

[This message has been edited by GraterFang (edited 04-10-2012).]

What if the motor doesn't have a distributor (like my DOHC crate motor)?

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1986 SE Aero coupe. 3.4 DOHC swap is underway!

Or an LS1 or Northstar, quad4, ecotec, the list goes on.

It's my understanding that the accepted method is to crank over an engine without the plugs in and injectors off.

The GM service manual for the Northstar says to disconnect the power connector from the ICM and crank until engine indicates oil pressure, then start and allow to idle until the lifters stop clattering.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 04-10-2012).]

Sorry for the delayed responce - had to get some sleep.

If the motor is out of the car – how do you know if pressure was achieved?

The motor I had in mind was an LQ1 that has no method of spinning the oil pump externally.
Do you pull the valve covers off and if so would you and could you see oil flowing.?

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Red 1988 GT 5 speed
Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered
LQ1 powered

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: What if the motor doesn't have a distributor (like my DOHC crate motor)?

Remove the plastic timing cover, remove the bolt securing the bottom belt cog on the dummy cam, place a spacer under the bolt so that it does not contact the driving cog, then use a strong power drill with a 15MM socket on the end to spin the dummy cam. It is ONLY connected to the oil pump. This will prime it right up. I don't think this can be done on the car though. But it will work with the timing belt still in place.

Sorry for the delayed responce - had to get some sleep.

If the motor is out of the car – how do you know if pressure was achieved?

The motor I had in mind was an LQ1 that has no method of spinning the oil pump externally.
Do you pull the valve covers off and if so would you and could you see oil flowing.?

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Red 1988 GT 5 speed
Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered
LQ1 powered

I guess I inadvertently answered you too CC.



The bolt going into the belt driving sprocket does two things. Holds the timing cog to the timing gear behind the cover locking them together, and the friction between the two timing cogs and the intermediate shaft spins the intermediate shaft, driving the oil pump. So you can remove the bolt and washer, and place a spacer underneath it so that it no longer grips the timing gears, then you can spin the intermediate shaft independently of the whole engine using a 15MM socket on a drill. There is still some friction between the sprockets and the shaft they ride on, but it will still allow you to spin the shaft. You'll need a ballsy drill to spin the shaft. Yes, you will see the oil flowing through the cam carrier from around the lifters.

[This message has been edited by Fierobsessed (edited 04-10-2012).]

Way cool and yes you did answer my question - thanks
One request - can you add an arrow to help us less experienced identify exactly what to spin?

And thanks for the help!

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Red 1988 GT 5 speed
Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered
LQ1 powered

[This message has been edited by CC Rider (edited 04-10-2012).]

Done.

quote Originally posted by CC Rider: If the motor is out of the car – how do you know if pressure was achieved?

Either hook up a mechanical gauge to where the sensor goes, or connect an ohm meter to the sensor.

BTW, on an 88 duke, the official procedure is to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly, and then crank the engine until you get pressure. It takes very little cranking to get pressure.
Maybe packing the pump with petroleum jelly would work with other engines also.

Many thanks for your help.
One question- when you loosen the belt the cams will not move and lose the cam timing-right?

quote Originally posted by tesmith66: What if the motor doesn't have a distributor (like my DOHC crate motor)?

It should work on any GM 60-degree V6, distributer or not. If the engine has DIS, then pull out the "dummy distributer", and stick in the modded one.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 04-10-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: It should work on any GM 60-degree V6, distributer or not. If the engine has DIS, then pull out the "dummy distributer", and stick in the modded one.

EXCEPT for the LQ-1. One of the heads has to come off in order to pull the dummy shaft.

quote Originally posted by CC Rider: Many thanks for your help. One question- when you loosen the belt the cams will not move and lose the cam timing-right?

There is the potential that the timing cog may separate from the timing sprocket. It has 6 different positions that it can be locked into. Probably not a bad idea to set the crank to TDC, and mark the timing cog. The cog would have to pop out 1/8" or so to unlock from the sprocket. As long as it doesn't come that far out, you will not lose your timing. An even then you can just realign it, and push the cog back into its locked in position.