I recently posted for some help and one of the people who helped suggested I post a list of the things I used. Well, I figured it was better to post a walk-thru of wht led to my having to change out my oil sender and then how to do it.
Background: I had recently changed out my fuel pump and the pump started to run continuously. The recommendations were to check the relay and then the oil pressure sender. You see, the relay for the fuel pump has <I>two</I> power sources; one through the ignition switch and a second through the oil pressure sender. After I replaced the relay, the only other thing was to change out the sender. It was recommended to upgrade to the '88 version of the sender for many reasons: lack of availability, it doesn't leak, and it's cheaper!
This is what I used for the job:
1. Strap Filter Wrench (Autozone / OEM 25079)
2. Oil pressure Switch Socket (O'reillys / Lisle 13200)
3. 1/2" ratchet and 6" extension
4. 3/8" ratchet and 6" extension
5. '88 oil pressure sender and wiring harness (O'Reillys S4088 and PT246) These look similar to the picture below
6. Soldering iron and lead-free solder
7. 1/4" heat shrink tubing cut to about 1-1/2" lengths
8. Electrical tape
9. A dab of blue thread locker
How it was done:
1. Disconnect the harness from the top of the sender. It may have a keeper connected to it. It's ok, you can break it 'cause it ain't gonna fit onto the replacement part anyways
The sender is located here
2. Cut the wires at the back of the old connector and strip off about 1/4" of the insulation.
3. Because the area around the sender was so cramped, it was hard to get anything in there to easily turn the sender off of the extension tube without going through the wheel well. I used the strap wrench to twist the sender loose and turned it off the rest of the way by hand.
4. The leads on the new connector are LONG! I cut them down to be about 6" in length and sttripped off 1/4" of insulation.
This is the pin out:
The new connector does NOT make use of the "B" position.
5. I soldered the connections per the pin out diagram and covered the connections with the heat shrink tubing.
6. Once all the connections were completed, I wrapped the bundle with electrical tape to seal out moisture and placed it back into the loom.
7. Putting the new sender into place was simple as the threads were the same and there should be no issues with it going on. I tightened it down to a little past "snug" to be sure of no leaks.
8. Connect the connector to the top of the sender.
If everything went correctly, you should be able to turn on the car and hear the fuel pump prime and stop. I started the car and checked for leaks around the base of the new sender and took it for a test drive.
I hope this helps someone who (hopefully doesn't) has to change out their oil pressure sender.
Credits: The Ogre's Cave for the source of the pictures used in this post.
Trevor
