The "turbo" headers that I got off E-BAY did fit. I had to cut across the trunk wall and bend the metal back. I will pop rivet it back together and fix the ends after the engine is out.
Now the rear header goes in or out with the engine in the car. this is not the best picture
The rear is higher than the center line of the ports so the 90 that will come up over the trans will clear the shifter/ NS switch
On the front I had to move a lot of stuff out of the way but it went in with no cutting.
I in tend to run both down to a "why" in front of the starter. Than into the "why" that has my elec exhaust cut out. I will use 2 1/2 inch SS for every thing ahead of the cutout. I have the room here. I will have to put the remote oil filter mount over the trans just about were it is in this picture. This is what it replaced. this has to run better. I used the old set up for 8 years, but it is rusting out. If I have to do it again, it is going to be all SS
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06:15 PM
PFF
System Bot
Gall757 Member
Posts: 10938 From: Holland, MI Registered: Jun 2010
If I had a "indy" or a very nice stock GT I would not mess with it. But a 84, 2.5 / auto, with a shitty non-stock engine is fair game. This 84 was on it's 2nd or 3rd 2.5, it had had a engine compartment fire, ( just a little one ), had a shitty paint job ( they sanded it with a brick ). If you left it with the battery connected, with the key off, it would smoke the starter. It was alined so that all 4 tires pointed in differnet directions ( interesting handling) But at car shows no body complains about it not being "stock" or what I changed. One of my projects for this car is to have a buddy make me a gutted pump shot gun that I can powder coat red to use as a hood prop for when I have the complete deck lid on it.
Made you look, Made you look! AND I showed what I had to do, to do it. I presented enough information so that a person could decide if they wanted to use them.
they have very thick flange's, the welding is very good, and for $280 I will cut some sheet metal. My sons SS 3800 headers are $900.
Ya, those headers dont fit; but they do look nice in there non the less
Think I would have dun it a little different. Rather than cutting the trunk wall, I would have removed the primary tubes from the flange, shortened them, then rewelded them back to the flange. This would have positioned them closer to the motor...
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08:06 PM
Dec 24th, 2012
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15524 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
Ya, those headers dont fit; but they do look nice in there non the less
Think I would have dun it a little different. Rather than cutting the trunk wall, I would have removed the primary tubes from the flange, shortened them, then rewelded them back to the flange. This would have positioned them closer to the motor...
My concern would that the headers being that close to the trunk wall and inner firewall, you will fry the rug in back of the seat and anything in the trunk. I beleive that Archie uses Sanderson "shorty" headers on many of his small block installs. I believe that they fit without interference. ------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 12-24-2012).]
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03:28 PM
FFIEROFRED Member
Posts: 750 From: GULFPORT, MS Registered: May 2008
This is what I was using for the last 6 to 8 years. I hand made a log manifold for the rear with a ram horn on the front. I have a auto trans. 4t60-E this time. With a auto trans NONE ( 0 ) shorty headers fit the rear head. I tryed every chevy cast exhaust that I could get ahold of. I used the bottom of the stock v6 fiero cross over pipe. ( it's the part that is not rusty ) I hand made every thing before that. really pisspoor for flow. But it could go in or out with the drive line in the car. It was quiet, no drumming. I had to cut the header flange in to 3 parts to let it expand/contract to stop it cracking all the welds. It was OK, just, with the cross fire 305 pos. Now I have a 357, dart headed, victor intake, with a comp cams roller. This needs headers. this is the only set I have seen that doesn't try to go down. In the back I have 3/4 inch or more of space. In the front I have at least 3/8 inch. I will repair ( grind smooth, rivet together, make end caps for the trunk wall mods). than paint and use a heat barrier film. For the front fire wall I am going to move a few things than use a lot of heat barrier stuff and maby a heat sheld on the header. When I powder coated the intake, valve covers, brackets, water manifold, carb spacer, trans bracket it was to protect all the hand made or big buck parts because they go to hell down here in a hurry. What happened at car shows was a eye opener. Now with the big red engine sticking out of the rear deck, the rumpy roller cam idle with the open exhaust dump, old guys just get a silly smile, say "OH **** !". When I get "done" with this exhaust install NOBODY will be able to tell I cut any thing. I use a cut-a-way deck lid at car shows. That way i can leave the trunk locked when i am away from the car. I am from the north east, any thing that will NOT rust is ok with me. All the tubing for this build will be SS. I wouldn't want to shame all that red powder coating. OH yah, I can't tig at home, so I bought them, the car body will have to accomadate the headers as they are. The next step is to take the drive line out for a high stall converter, crank kit, bigger oil pump. thats when i will do all the sheet metal work. More as I do it. read the stickers on my back window. Did you see the little blue bottle on the pass side floor?
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05:20 PM
PFF
System Bot
fieroguru Member
Posts: 12329 From: Champaign, IL Registered: Aug 2003
These headers have been used twice before, but I don't recall them having to do any clearance work to fit them in the engine bay. It could be that they have changed their shape/fitment or maybe your engine placement front/rear is different from where they positioned theirs (possibly using them from the initial install before the mounts were welded up vs. trying to add them later).
I don't like cutting on the fiero chassis much, so I probably would have done as suggested above and cut the primaries at the flanges and pushed the tubes in further to get them as tight to the side of the head as possible. I am sure those headers will provide all the flow your new engine will need!
The only cast manifold that does fit the SBC/4T60 is the driver side 93+ LT1 manifold. It dumps right next to the differential and you can spin the VSS sensor cap around to get it out of the way.
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06:25 PM
FFIEROFRED Member
Posts: 750 From: GULFPORT, MS Registered: May 2008
The 4T60-E is longer by more than 1 inch than the 4t60. I wanted to have both sides use the factory V6 GT exhaust so i could use a wide band O2 senser. If I had run the exhaust down by the pass side tripot when I had the 4t60 it would not have worked for the "E". With the old set up I could change all 8 plugs in less than 1 hour. I have a home made alum trans to engine bracket that might get in the way of manifold. I like the stock muffler because it SS, fits nice, no drone, looks stock. I though about making a header like the one I bought, but I can not tack ss here at the house. When i started the V8 swap all the years ago I was not on this wonderfull site. The whole car is a bunch of could have, should haves. like Franky said "I did it my way" It only has to do 2 things. 1. please me. 2. whup my sons 3800 fiero.
No sense having just another belly-button car. Can't wait to see more. 
