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Wires pulled out of connector. by Fiero_Guy
Started on: 05-05-2013 12:11 PM
Replies: 10
Last post by: RWDPLZ on 05-07-2013 10:14 PM
Fiero_Guy
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Report this Post05-05-2013 12:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero_GuySend a Private Message to Fiero_GuyDirect Link to This Post
Hey just wondering if I need to go find a new connector when the wires are fully pulled out or is there a way to completely take the apart and soder in new wires?
What do people do when they have this situation?


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trotterlg
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Report this Post05-05-2013 12:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for trotterlgSend a Private Message to trotterlgDirect Link to This Post
Just find a connector with wires still attached and splice it on to your wires. Connectors usually have a purpose built tool for pin removal, if you can figure out what it is you could likely remove the pin to repair it. Just not worth the trouble though. Larry
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Fiero_Guy
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Report this Post05-05-2013 12:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero_GuySend a Private Message to Fiero_GuyDirect Link to This Post
After taking a good look at the connector I tried to take it apart and it was quit simple, at least this connector.


Now I'm back in business.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post05-05-2013 12:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post
The purple indicates your VSS connector was a GT150 type. That connector was also made with MetriPack 150.2 pull to seat terminals. Both will fit into the VSS connector fine.



Your green oil pressure sender connector won't work the 3 pin 88 Fiero sender (0 - 80 PSI) or the Bonneville 4 pin 0 - 120 PSI sender.

If you are interested I can sell you a VSS connector, the correct oil pressure connector, a new 2 bar MAP sensor that isn't broken (80% are broken on donor harnesses), and a transmission reverse switch/starter lock out connector.

email me at gofast@reddevilriver.com if you are interested.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 05-05-2013).]

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FieroNate
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Report this Post05-05-2013 02:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroNateClick Here to visit FieroNate's HomePageSend a Private Message to FieroNateDirect Link to This Post
I was going to comment that these are common connector systems. I think GM only used 3 systems for connectors the old fiero style and the newer metripac which I think there are several sub versions.

Does anyone have the crimpers for either of these connector types?
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post05-05-2013 03:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroNate:

I was going to comment that these are common connector systems. I think GM only used 3 systems for connectors the old fiero style and the newer metripac which I think there are several sub versions.

Does anyone have the crimpers for either of these connector types?


http://ls1tech.com/forums/p...-150-connectors.html
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FieroNate
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Report this Post05-06-2013 07:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroNateClick Here to visit FieroNate's HomePageSend a Private Message to FieroNateDirect Link to This Post
How about a pin removal tool? Anyone know if they carry those too?

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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post05-06-2013 08:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post05-06-2013 11:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post
I have ended up making my own. It's driven by a combination of needing the tool right now, and me just being cheap, and me wanting a tool for the correct application.

For all MetriPack 150.2 pull to seat connectors - The terminals PUSH out of the connector, out the front. This also includes the terminals in the EV1 (standard) fuel injector connector. First pry out the rear rubber seal. Then push the release tool up the butt of the connector. You have to figure out which side of the terminal the tang is on. Then once you get it far enough push both the tool and the wire of the terminal and it will push out forward.

The tool looks like this. It is made out of a "standard thickness" hose clamp. For this tool, the prong needs to be long enough to go all the way through the connector. It also needs to be ground thinner than the standard thickness hose clamp. Once you get the tool to the correct shape and size it works really well.



For MetriPack 150 terminals with individual seals a slightly flattened paperclip works well. MetriPack 150 sealed connectors can be identified as having a secondary clip on the back side. Make a few of them so when you lose one you have a back up. Just a few hammer strikes to slightly flatten the wire. Then bend the 'handle' at a 45 so it comes up so it doesn't just like flat when you want to pick it up.

To remove these, remove the plastic secondary retention clip. Then push the 'tool' up into the slot above the terminal. Pull gently and the wire comes right out. If not, you most likely didn't push the tool up far enough to unclip the tang.



For WeatherPack, I broke my professional tool, but I had an old telescoping antenna that I put into service. The piece of tape shows how deep the tool needs to be inserted to disengage the tangs. I haven't broke this one and I feel it works better than the professional tool did.



For MetriPack 150 & 280 unsealed this tool works best. That would be for all the terminals in C203 and C500



Not mine since mine is missing the Weatherpack end.

For C500 - DO NOT FORGET - You have to remove the secondary pin retention fork before you can get any of the terminals to pull out. The secondary fork inserts in the side of the connector and many times is buried in gunk so you can't see it.

----
For this type of ECM plug I made this tool to remove the pins.



----

GT150 - Identified with the purple connector. Usually the purple nose piece needs to be removed from the connectors face first. Then remove the terminals.

----
Edit - I have yet one more that I use to depin the Fiero / 7730 ECM connectors.

I also use a T shaped stick pin to depin 3800 relay sockets, and OBD2 connectors. These use a plastic tang that inserts into the metal terminal. You have to retract the plastic tang with the stick pin to remove the terminal.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 05-06-2013).]

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FieroNate
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Report this Post05-07-2013 12:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroNateClick Here to visit FieroNate's HomePageSend a Private Message to FieroNateDirect Link to This Post
It looks like Summit also carries the crimper and removal tool.

Mouser appears to carry the terminals and connector shells and seals. Looks like problem solved... Now to make a new harness....
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post05-07-2013 10:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
The only problem with Mouser and Digikey, is some terminals require a minimum order. I still have 92 of 100 Mazda fusible link box terminals sitting here...
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