So during my LX9 engine swap and conversion to the 5-speed Getrag, I came across Rodney's input shaft bearing kit and began reading about it. Then I decided to inspect the tranny I recently purchased. Sure enough, the sleeve was cracked at the base about 1/3 around, where they normally break.



Is there a writeup on how to remove and reinstall a new bearing? I would be using Rodney's kit. Thanks all...

[This message has been edited by masospaghetti (edited 05-11-2013).]

Rodney Dickman should have instructions for that.

I have been following this problem for a while, wonder if you could not just remove the broken off part and use something like the VW guide that just bolts on the flange? You would have to drill and tap three holes, but that could be easy. Larry
[url=Easy Fix?]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thr...p=mtr#ht_2163wt_1239

[This message has been edited by trotterlg (edited 05-11-2013).]

This is an important post. I've seen numerous situations in the past when a high power engine swap was done and the Getrag with 100K + miles on it was ignored. IMO putting a 3800 or V8 on a Getrag without rebuilding it is a sure formula for failure. Point is the way that we replace our worn out engines with more efficient ones, we must also remember that the Getrag was not designed to last forever. A worn input shaft bearing can be a prime causes of transmission failures. Its a good idea to check the input shaft run out before re-installing this trans.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
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nice trotterlg

it makes no sense to disassemble a tranny that replacement parts are difficult if not impossible to find when the bearing is in perfectly fine condition and only the sleeve needs repair

it is rare for the bearing to go bad, but the sleeve is a common problem since the design is a poor one, in fact many other Getrags either don't have a sleeve, or has one that is externally replaceable.

To replace the bearing with Rodney's part, I assume the case needs to be split?

I would like a general idea how hard this will be before I commit and buy the new bearing. I can still use my old 4-speed Muncie...

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/124966.html

quote Originally posted by ZaraSpOOk: it makes no sense to disassemble a tranny that replacement parts are difficult if not impossible to find when the bearing is in perfectly fine condition and only the sleeve needs repair

The seal also fails.

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Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

Yesterday I just got my '88 GT 5-speed T-Top running again after using Rodney's New Getrag input bearing/seal/sleeve kit.
I bought the car cheap last summer knowing that it would most likely needed a clutch replacement, so I towed it home and took it apart.
I found that the throw out bearing sleeve was broken and I used Rodney's kit for the repair.
It was fairly straight forward, and Blacktree's write-up "Split the Case on a Getrag 5-Speed, With Photos" was very helpful.


https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000008.html

[This message has been edited by hdryder (edited 05-14-2013).]

quote Originally posted by Rodney: It is possible. The sleeve would need to break off almost flush to the face of the flat surface. Would be very hard to grind any remaining sleeve material low enough. Would be hard to drill and tap holes with the shaft in the way. I would have to look at it. Possibly because the bearing sits up some the sleeve would need to be even thicker. That could be a problem. You would have to assume the seal in the original bearing will last a reasonable amount of time after the repair. You would need to freehand drill the mounting screw holes and if they are off even just a little bit the flat head screws sit up higher.

the sleeves do break off more or less flush because that is the transition point of stress. Rather than attempt to screw a flange to the tranny case, weld it.
Use another centering sleeve that fits over the shaft and inside the sleeve the TOB will move on.
This inner spacing sleeve should have an ID of 24mm and the OD of the TOB sleeve should be 30mm. So this leaves 3mm total thickness for both sleeves.
So if you use .06" material for the TOB sleeve, you also need the same for the spacing sleeve and this will translate to.06" clearance between the shaft and TOB sleeve, which allows for a fair amount of miss alignment before the shaft hits the sleeve.

all of these numbers are approxiamate, I'd have to find my drawings I gave to the guy that machined the part (which cost $45 to machine including material)
The length is also on my drawing.
The trick with the length is to not make it too long so when you put the tranny on the engine, it doesn't prevent the two from going together.
If you make it too short, that wouldn't be good either, but there is plenty of range to play with.