OK! Can u please email the directions and/or tips on the door panel speaker install? I have been planning on doing that since snow fell, and have just been waiting for nice weather. It looks almost exactly like what i wanted to do. So nice by the way.
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05:55 PM
wiccantoy Member
Posts: 3372 From: northwales , pa / Williamstown nj Registered: Mar 2002
Idea for the speaker pods are from the newer grand am's( just the idea) Wanted the speakers recessed into the door so they are clean and not sticking out like a sore thumb. Looks alittle mote factory.
All i did was get my basic shap anused another piece of 3/4 mdf for the mountin of the speaker, put them together an there you have it one pod assembled.
Used blocks to propwe the pod into place and screwed it from the vack side of the door panel.
Once they were in place i udes fiberglass cloth to get the contour fro the pod (stpled it into place so it would stay) then started appling the resin this was so i could make the door as lite as possible.
thini just started laying the fill to it and sanding and sanding and sanding.
It would be pretty easy to paint it if you wanted to, just keep appling the fill to smooth out the whole door.
Just a quick overview of the door you can fill in the blanks.
Thanks for the comments. I do take constructive critisism as well.
Later Jimmy B.
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11:34 AM
rube Member
Posts: 165 From: Indianapolis, IN Registered: Sep 2002
Fierosound- The arangement is quite familier, i read that article in a magazine about 6 years ago or so. I didn't quite add as many components as you, didn't have that much stuff kicking around.
I lost about an 1" - 1.5" of seat travel because i didn't cut the firewall for the sub. Next time i'll use a sub that requires a lot less air space.
I'm Installing a factory cd, no offense to you or anyone but i hate the look of an aftermarket head unit sticking out.
As for the front of the car didn't like the idea of the prop rod still there, takes away from the simple clean look. That piece is 1/4" plexiglass and it took about 9 hours with a heat gun to shape the curves to the weather seal, its stickered with red vynle on the top side with all the lettering cut out, then i used silver translucent on the whole bottom side of the cover. This gives the lettering some depth. Going to install lights on the underside.
Used the logo "we build excitment" just because thats what it was back then .
You may like to post some of your pics or your website. It too is a very impressive install. Just to see the differences. Wasn't going to spend 10 grand for this install like i did in my forsd 4 door.
Later Jimmy B
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11:49 AM
Joe Torma Member
Posts: 3485 From: Hillsborough, NJ USA Registered: Jul 2001
I see you added the Spal power windows. How did they come out? Did the mount location work out well for the window motor? I used Spal too but did not come out as well as I liked. I may redo it now. Like the install, The door panels came out nice.
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[This message has been edited by cjgable (edited 02-24-2003).]
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05:26 PM
jimmybpei Member
Posts: 354 From: summerside pe canada Registered: Aug 2001
I tried locating the motor in the same location as the instructions said, but i just couldn't figure out how they expect you to get the motor in there.
So thats why its mounted outside. The panel still seems to fit. so i guess they will be staying there.
If it aint broke don't fix it.
Later Jimmy B.
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05:37 PM
PFF
System Bot
cjgable Member
Posts: 1198 From: Fort Worth, Tx, USA Registered: Dec 2001
Yeah I have it in the location they mentioned, but on the outside. I had to modify my doorpanel. Maybe I will relocate it though, so I can put my doorpanel back to stock. Where you have yours mounted will probably work better and definitely looks better than mine.
Santa - I made the park lite covers myself, Not to difficult, just cut the tinted plexi to fit the hole and used 2 way 3m tape to hold a coule of tin bracket in place and 2 way 3mtapped the plexi to the brackets.
I love it!
Excellent job!!
