I'm thinking about shaving the moldings and door handles/locks from my car but I would like to see some pics first. They don't have to be painted or anything, work-in-progress cars will do. Thanks
------------------ If I'm a nobody, and nobody's perfect, than I guess I'm perfect!
My car looks just like this one only that I left the door handles,why worry about that when the time comesI will think about thatbut the car looks beautiful and up to date.
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[This message has been edited by Master Tuner Akimoto (edited 04-19-2004).]
What did you use to fill in the space? What type a material gave you a flexible enough bond not to crack the paint? I want to do this but I told it was gonna be very hard to get it not to crack.
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10:05 AM
datacop Member
Posts: 1426 From: Indianapolis, IN, USA Registered: Jan 2004
What I did was I ground down the molding after which I used drywall screws to hold the moldings firm then used fiber glass on the sides and doors, front I used flexible bumper repair filler if you use filler to cover the molding spaces there is a possibility it will crack and fall out that is why I used moldings and grind them down to use less filler.
------------------ Tuners of the Quickest 4.9 12.51@118 mph
4.5/4.9 (RSR)Hi Perf. Caddi-V8 Fully Blueprint&Balanced Rotating Assembly Custom Intake Manifold Custom Machined Heads Victor Reinz Head Gaskets 50-150HP Nos Power Shot. Holley 510-0-4412C Carb.
[This message has been edited by Master Tuner Akimoto (edited 01-14-2004).]
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10:51 AM
Philphine Member
Posts: 6136 From: louisville,ky. usa Registered: Feb 2000
some blurry pics of one i brought and play with when i can. don't have any recent ones. no side molding and the door handles are kind sanded down flush with the body but still there.i plan to leave them there as i'm scared of electric doors going out on me. i'm leaving it shaved so as i switch parts i either find them with no molding (like the pisa scarab front facia) or do it my self. if it's a fairly stiff section i use glass. if i need it more flexable i use bumper epoxy (3m automix or the auto zone equivilent).
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11:08 AM
David Bartlett Member
Posts: 1090 From: Ancaster, Ontario, Canada Registered: Aug 2001
Here's an idea I just thought of, just in case if the panels like the bumpers or quarters need to be removed, leave a thin line between them. And use bolts, so you can unbolt the piece in case of an accident, so you'll still have a mostly shaved look, but won't have to worry about cutting anything if it breaks. Is it a good idea?
There are reasons to take off or replace panels besides a damaged panel. A good example would be draining the coolant when your coolant pipe bolt is stripped. The quarter panels can be removed for access to the hose and clamps.
The only problem I see with shaved parts is the requirement to resmooth and repaint the part for anything that would require removing the part.
Any suggestions?
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07:32 PM
fierce_gt Member
Posts: 1517 From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Registered: Oct 2002
i don't understand why one couldn't use snap on connections to hold a smooth panel in place. like the outter edges will be screwed in like normal, but everywhere you smooth in a seam add some snap in clips(like what the door panels and interior trim use). that way you will have strength and still be able to remove the panels, they will just be much larger panels to remove. but anyone who's removed a fender knows how much they flex, i would think a system like that would work flawlessly
Well, if you ever have to replace a panel, then why worry about tearing up the smoothed one. It has to be replaced anyway!
I have never understood that argument for not doing smoothed panels.
Because now instead of having a fender, you have a single piece front-end with two fenders. same with the rear clip and quarter panels. The trim on the door and the trim on the fenders are the only pieces that can be smoothed without making two panels into one.
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10:38 PM
fiero_silva Member
Posts: 1493 From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
i don't understand why one couldn't use snap on connections to hold a smooth panel in place. like the outter edges will be screwed in like normal, but everywhere you smooth in a seam add some snap in clips(like what the door panels and interior trim use). that way you will have strength and still be able to remove the panels, they will just be much larger panels to remove. but anyone who's removed a fender knows how much they flex, i would think a system like that would work flawlessly
Scott, your idea is a good one, but you would still see a crack where the 2 parts meet. My goal while *smoothing* my car is to make is as smooth as possible, therefore no cracks. I can live with seperating the bumper from the fenders with a chisel when the need comes.
A good example would be draining the coolant when your coolant pipe bolt is stripped. The quarter panels can be removed for access to the hose and clamps.
Any suggestions?
You can reach this by unscrewing a couple bolts from the fender welds.
Sometime ago, in SmooothGT's topic about him starting this process, I suggested a method of attaching the panels. I am certain it would work, it would just require a small ammount of fab work. But if you are smoothing them, a little more work should not bother you.
Use the Plastic Motherboard standoffs. The ones that snap into place, not screw in. One end has a flat section, this would be mounted to the panel. The other end in an arrow shaped piece that opens up to bite into the hole. So what you would do, is where ever there USEd to be a screw, push a plastic standoff into the hole. Then make some minor changes to the back of the panel so you can slide the panel down on top of the standoffs. The round end would fit into the slots you made ont he back of the panel, holding the whole thing together.
I know my description is not the best, but I can see it clearly in my head, and I am sure it would work.
Here's an idea I just thought of, just in case if the panels like the bumpers or quarters need to be removed, leave a thin line between them. And use bolts, so you can unbolt the piece in case of an accident, so you'll still have a mostly shaved look, but won't have to worry about cutting anything if it breaks. Is it a good idea?
No. If you get in an accident just deal with it. It's goint to have to be re-smoothed into place and such. Thats part of owning a custom car. You have to pay to play.
Basically the bottom line is, if you want a sweet, smoothed, custom looking Fiero, your not going to worry about what could happen to it. If it happens you deal with it, fix it, re smooth it and you again have a phat looking smooth Fiero. Really, if your going to put the much work into it, your going to do what it takes to fix it if a misahp shuld occur.
So folks are removing the side moldings and then using fiberglass as filler on the front fender, the door, and the lower panel in front of the rear wheel? And then using flexible urethane filler on the front and rear bumper? Fiberglass and urethane have different expansion rates, so I would think normal climate changes (summer-winter) would be enough to cause the fiberglass and urethane (and paint) to separate and crack over time. Has anyone taken pictures, or created a website to better explain how this modification has been achieved??
Bump for anyone that can answer my question. I'm beginning to think this is one of those modifications that folks like to talk about but don't want to explain for fear others will copy them. I could have missed threads that explain it better, but I've done searches and it never seems to be explained, more or less progress pics. Thanks folks
[This message has been edited by ChopTop (edited 01-20-2004).]
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10:59 AM
NotAFieroAnyLonger Member
Posts: 4413 From: 75762/Texas/USA Registered: Dec 2003
Bump for anyone that can answer my question. I'm beginning to think this is one of those modifications that folks like to talk about but don't want to explain for fear others will copy them. I could have missed threads that explain it better, but I've done searches and it never seems to be explained, more or less progress pics. Thanks folks
Sure hope I can help... I did like you asked EXCEPT for the fact that I ALSO used F'glass on the fascia's as well... I used a HIGH number of layer's of glass though.... So far NO CRACK'S. and it's been 2 FULL YEAR'S since the rear fascia was done... I am NOT saying it WILL NEVER crack... I am NOT saying it is the correct way, nor the better way..... JUST the way MINE WAS DONE!!
SmoothGT!!
------------------ New Name.... New Attitude.... AKA. "SmoothGT".... Custom Built SHAVED~WIDEBODY~GT!!
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12:17 PM
NotAFieroAnyLonger Member
Posts: 4413 From: 75762/Texas/USA Registered: Dec 2003
Here's an idea I just thought of, just in case if the panels like the bumpers or quarters need to be removed, leave a thin line between them. And use bolts, so you can unbolt the piece in case of an accident, so you'll still have a mostly shaved look, but won't have to worry about cutting anything if it breaks. Is it a good idea?
So, you are talking about 'CUSTOM MADE PANEL'S' right...??? One's that you could just bold on right..??
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12:20 PM
Fie Ro Member
Posts: 3735 From: Soest, The Netherlands Registered: Sep 2001
The idea seems right but there will be a mounting problem. Many parts are made to overlap each other and being mounted together. So you will have to make some brackets on the frame if you want to mount ( and to be able to remove) panels individualy...that will be a lot of work
But I would love to see any good reason why I should shave my mouldings... I am still modifying
Smoooooth, you have done alot of this kind of work on your Fiero....ummm.....car....no, it's a Fiero. Im going to do it the way you did it...I guess filling a molded panel, you have to take a chance.
ChopTop ,I guess its more or less live and learn.. Im also shaving my panels in the basement this winter along with some other custom things., so I searched around here and found some usefull stuff to get me going...I'll figure out the rest later.
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[This message has been edited by fiero67 (edited 02-19-2004).]
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04:39 PM
NotAFieroAnyLonger Member
Posts: 4413 From: 75762/Texas/USA Registered: Dec 2003
thats funny, guess he thought it was his car... stealing sigs.. sheeesh
I am smoothing my panels, way too many projects, so I havent done much as of yet, just started wiring the door solenoids...
When you do something like this, you dont worry about what happens in an accident. It is just like a custom paint job. You dont get airbrushing done, and then worry what is going to happen if you need to replace a panel. My car will have both, custom paint and smooth panels, if I get in an accident, then it is a good thing I have insurance, and if it is the other person's fault, I sure hope that they have good insurance. Cars are an investment, but def not a safe investment. They are high risk, and if you want to try and protect yourself, then get the insurance to cover it, have the money and time to redo it, or just don't drive it. thats the best advice i can give
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09:12 PM
PFF
System Bot
Feb 19th, 2004
NotAFieroAnyLonger Member
Posts: 4413 From: 75762/Texas/USA Registered: Dec 2003
I am smoothing my panels, way too many projects, so I havent done much as of yet, just started wiring the door solenoids...
When you do something like this, you dont worry about what happens in an accident. It is just like a custom paint job. You dont get airbrushing done, and then worry what is going to happen if you need to replace a panel. My car will have both, custom paint and smooth panels, if I get in an accident, then it is a good thing I have insurance, and if it is the other person's fault, I sure hope that they have good insurance. Cars are an investment, but def not a safe investment. They are high risk, and if you want to try and protect yourself, then get the insurance to cover it, have the money and time to redo it, or just don't drive it. thats the best advice i can give
EXACTLY!!
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09:36 AM
jimmybpei Member
Posts: 354 From: summerside pe canada Registered: Aug 2001
Smoothing that car brought it into and past the '90's Makes it look 15 years newer. Like they said would hate to get into an accident. Que: what to use to fill in where the molding was
UMMM why do you have my sig picture attached to your name,
Please explain, cause thats the one i use on other forums, like the GenVibe, W-body, MyMonte and ClubGP....
Rob
Hey Rob, No way do I steal sigs...no offense but I like mine better.... as I told you in the PM you sent me, I just checked the name of your sig pic and it was the same as mine.... "sig2.jpg" Yours must have bumped mine off the host and when i posted that and included my sig...it grabbed yours CLIFF PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THIS!!!! I had to rename my sig in order to use it again. John
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06:02 PM
Feb 21st, 2004
jimmybpei Member
Posts: 354 From: summerside pe canada Registered: Aug 2001
Here's ours shaved, we used an extra set of door skins, cut sections to fit were the molding was and used a flexible filler, no signs of cracking Joyce
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09:53 AM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
***95 Camaro 3.4 swap, Ported and polished heads and intakes, CRX CAI, Custom Cam, steel vacuum lines, steel braided EGR tube, new Wire Harness, New Exhaust, No Cat, Flowmaster, polished poly dog bone. Isuzu 5 speed, Short through shifter ***Intrax 2" drop springs, Full Polly Suspension, Sencetrack Struts and Shocks, Grand AM brake upgrade, steel braided brake lines, 17" Gun Metal Wheels, Khumo Tires ***Racing Seats, SunPro tach w/ shift light, White face guages, carbon fiber Steering wheel, Carbon Fiber dash accents and custom sphere shift knob,
I love that. I like the smooth look too but I think you need some kind of beauty line down the side. On the Fiero, it isn't too bad the way it forms a ridge when it's smoothed, but I think this might look better.
