Today I worked on the fronts, they are definatly harder (more work involved) to do than the rears.....
2001 16" Toyota Celica rims and tires Front rim....wow that's a lot of rotor....
Caliper clearance...about 1/4" to 3/8", even clears the factory wheel weigths
Rear rim...
Caliper clearance...easy 3/8"
Misc. pics... Front
Rear
I still need to do the stainless brake lines, I bougth the Russel ones, DOT approved and I still need to figure out the e-brake setup. I bought the rear cables for a '96 Corvette and am going to try to hook everything together this way...any tips or hints from anybody???
There were a couple of things I would change or do differently if I did this swap again. This is the swap with Bubbajoes brackets and using his instructions for his web site and/or his post on the monster Fiero he is currently building. 1). when you mount the front adaptor to the spindle you have to grind a portion of the spindle flat so the adaptor sits flat, instead I wound design a radius in the adaptor to clear this area. 2). I choose to trim the front dust shield rather than discard it because it has a shield that goes over the inner portion of the hub to keep the dust out. 3). the holes on the rear adaptor where it bolts to the rear spindle need to be about .050 farther apart. I had to grind the holes oblong to get the bolts thru to the spindle holes.
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10:33 PM
PFF
System Bot
The Funkmaster Member
Posts: 1541 From: Chilliwack, B.C., Canada Registered: Oct 2004
I don't know yet, as it is sitting now with the wheels hanging the brake line bolt does hit the lower mounting tube on the shock but at ride ride it "may" clear as the angles will be different.
Dragon1/Brian
[This message has been edited by Dragon1 (edited 01-29-2005).]
I found the calipers on car-parts.com, $260 for four calipers with mounts, two front 1984 and two rear 1996.They were at a junk yard in my area too so I just went and picked them up. The rotors I got off ebay from a place in California. Auction was a pair buy it now for $33.95. They look to be very good quality. The adaptors I made myself at work, I've been a machinist for 30 years. Stainless brake lines came from Russel /Summit, mater cylinder was from Advanced Auto Parts, $20.00. Corvette e-brake cables from Art's Corvette parts in Florida.
Dragon1/Brian
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11:32 AM
Feb 2nd, 2005
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7543 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
Basically followed bubbajoes instructions and parts list in the thread about his new project(page 8 thru 10 or 12). Front calipers are '84 vette, rear calipers are '96 vette with the ebrake lever, mater cylinder I think is a '80 vette, adaptors are bubba's design, braided stainless is Russel from Summit, e-brake cables might be '96 vette, I have to work on that yet.
Put my Russel braided stainless brake lines on today....no pics sorry Here's a tip/hint for those who think the rear lines might be a little short or tight. Take off the mounting bracket where the hardline meets the flexable line and swap it for the bracket on the other side of the car. For example, drivers side bracket is "L" shaped, it goes up and bends out, so does the passenger side bracket. If you swap sides with the brackets they now go down and out. This gets you two inches closer to the caliper....not so tight anymore.
Almost had it done last weekend but I broke one of the front hardlines while moving the proportioning valve to meet the lines to the new master cylinder, we were trying to bleed the brakes and it was sucking air. I will buy a new set of lines from "The Fiero Store". They have a whole set of CNC mandrel bent hard lines for $159.00....
What the heck did you use for bolts to mount the adapter bracket to the spindle?? I LOOKS like a 12M1.50 thread, but in actuality it SEEMS to be an 11mm bolt. I can't find 11mm anywhere to even check. Everything else is all set, these 4 damn bolts are holding me up.
EDIT, I FINALLY found that someone drilled and tapped them to 12x1.75 to match the fronts, looks like thats what I'll have to do...
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 06-06-2005).]
I still need to set-up an e-brake, and get an alignment, as I did everything else suspensionwise also. These are 17", and have plenty of clearance.
I did have a little problem with the fronts at first. The o.d. of the rotors was rubbing the caliper bracket. I took care of this by milling a slight chamfer on the brackets. That part has plenty of material, so strength is not a problem. I blue locktighted the adapter brackets to both the spindles and the caliper bracket. I recommend everyone do the same. I also used 6061 Aluminum instead of steel. Plenty of rigidity and strength.
As already answered, drill those holes to the M-12 x 1.5mm. That keeps everything the same, and one can then use the tap to clean out all the threads for the brake system.
I don't know if anyone mentioned this yet, but the stock brake lines will reach and bolt on to the corvette calipers, but the corvette bolt it needed. It is the same diameter bolt, but the corvette one is a finer pitch.
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11:09 AM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
www.yellowfiero.com/fiero.html 17" DEZENT T wheels with 215/40 tires front and 235/45 rear, KONI shocks, EIBACH lowering springs, drilled/slotted rotors, SS brake hoses. PU dog bone, all bushings and engine mounts, K&N air and oil filters, OZELOT exhaust, Mercedes SLK yellow paintjob, Mr. Mikes leather seats, door skins, shift and e-brake boots. MP3 deck and custom subwoofer behind passenger seat, F355 style front. Fiero Store rear swaybar, strut tower brace, black carpet, air intake. Rodney Dickman's competition short shifter, SS vacuum lines and deck lid strut. Billet aluminum dash kit from Kitcarman.
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04:41 PM
PFF
System Bot
Aug 28th, 2005
1986GTV8 Member
Posts: 1259 From: Orlando,FL,USA Registered: Mar 2002
They all look absolutely great. I might need some help in the future from all of you guys doing this break swap . My corvette brakes and rotors are on their way in the mail as we speak.