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engine conversion options ??? by roadrunner.ts
Started on: 03-25-2006 01:43 AM
Replies: 21
Last post by: madcurl on 03-26-2006 11:18 PM
roadrunner.ts
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Report this Post03-25-2006 01:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for roadrunner.tsSend a Private Message to roadrunner.tsDirect Link to This Post
Looking at doing my own conversion on v6 2.8 5spd 87 gt.

What are the pros and cons of 350sbc vs. 4.9caddy vs. 4.6northstar vs. 3.8sc vs. turbocharger setups, and any other suggested contenders.

I have reasonable experience swapping driveline components on other cars, have engine lift and tools available, very little fabbing on my own, but plenty machine experience and access to good welding and materials.

I am open to any and all ideas. Want some real performance, with reliability, and would like to stay streetable and economical (say at least 20mpg minimum, like to be closer to 24-25mpg highway, or better), and maintain accessories like cruise and a/c.

Give me some input on what you have done and experienced. Thanks guys.
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Report this Post03-25-2006 02:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TintonSend a Private Message to TintonDirect Link to This Post
Hmmmm....I'll try to give my opinions (and some facts )on each:

350 SBC: older, you can get the kit from V8Archie and do it yourself easy enough. I don't have any experience with gas mileage on these but I'd guess under 20 (maybe 15'ish?). I don't know HP numbers but upper 200's to 300's is my guess. Aftermarket is HUGE and you could probably build a 350 up as much as you want. Also has a very good wow factor, but I think these are iron-block-and-heads motors and might throw off handling a little.
4.9 Cadillac: Pros - its a lightweight (aluminum block) motor with loads of torque, its easy to install, and it gets decent mileage in the 20's. Cons - its lacking in HP, with only a 5000 rpm redline. Only 180 HP but has closer to 280 torque. Aftermarket is slim. If you're looking for a modest improvement in speed without sacrificing handling, along with a nice V8 rumble, this motor is for you.
4.6L N*: Pros - its a modern DOHC 32-valve V8, very refined. 300 HP and like 300 TQ, it revs pretty high (6500?). It should get good gas mileage, like around the 20's and possibly even high 20's. It also has a big "wow" factor, not only is it a V8, its also a DOHC V8. Cons - finding someone to put this thing into your Fiero, I hear its a wiring nightmare, and you could probably get a LS1 into a Fiero for the same price. I also think you have to stick with an automatic transmission, like a 4-speed auto. Overall this should be a VERY fast car with this engine.
3.8SC: Pros - Great gas mileage from the mid 20's to the lower 30's with a soft foot and a nice 5-speed. A lot of people have them in Fieros, so if you have any questions there are usually tons of people to help out. Loyde out in Dallas does these swaps, along with a guy in Maryland (can't remember his name) and they do good work. Its cheap, a turnkey is $8800. Not as cheap as a 4.9L though, or maybe even a SBC. You might be able to do this swap yourself if you want. Aftermarket is decent because there are many manufacturers that cater to the Grand Prix GTP's. HP is good, I think its like 240 or so, with a little bit more torque. Cons - the motor is a bit on the heavy side, it might throw your handling off a little.
2.8 Turbo: Pros - Ehhh....most speed for the least work? The 2.8 turbo isn't that good of an idea, but they do produce like 180 hp and 240 tq, almost the same numbers as a 4.9L N/A. Gas mileage won't be that great, like a stock 2.8 it'll probably be high 10's and low 20's if you're lucky and you're driving a 5-speed. Cons - Reliability, the 2.8L V6 was not designed for forced induction, and it probably wouldn't last that long. A guy I know has a nice '85 GT with a turbo 2.8 and that thing is awesome, but he babies that car and knows how to keep it reliable.
My own additions:
LS1: Pros - its a modern SBC V8, 5.7L aluminum block and heads. I have one in my Camaro, roughly 350 hp and 380 tq (mostly stock). I get low 20's mixed city and hwy driving with me flooring it a lot, I can get mid 20's all highway. If we're talking about sticking stock motors into a Fiero, this will make your car the fastest, get decent mileage, and it'll have decent reliability. Aftermarket is MASSIVE, Corvettes, Camaros, Trans Ams, GTOs, etc, have used the LS1. HUGE wow factor, like no one has a LS1 in their Fiero, and they sound like sex. Cons - the motor is HUGE, it takes up most of the engine bay. I think there might be cutting involved to make it work. Also, not very many people have these in cars, and the only person I know who puts them in cars is Loyde at FastFieros. The price tag is large (think $16,000), and the wiring is probably a nightmare. Also, these engines, even though you can buy crate motors, they are expensive.
LT1: Pros - Its another modern SBC V8, 5.7L but I think its iron block. A friend of mine has 1 in his Camaro, its pretty quick with 275 hp and like 340 tq. It has more low-end torque than the LS1, but less top-end power. The engine is physically small, I swear its smaller than a 2.8 V6, which probably means its easy to work on. Gas mileage, I'm not sure, but its probably like the LS1 or a little lower. Cons - you can't find crate LT1's anymore I hear, you have to find 1 in a junkyard. You could probably do the swap yourself though. Its probably a heavy motor and might throw off handling.

That's all for now, other people can probably supply more reliable facts than me.

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Fiero1Fan
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Report this Post03-25-2006 03:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero1FanClick Here to visit Fiero1Fan's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero1FanDirect Link to This Post
I think it is mostly a personal preference issue here. The V8 sbc's and N* swaps are impressive (the sound of a sbc is fantastic) to see but add alot of weight plus entail more modification to the Fiero and aftermarket adapters to make them fit.

The 3.8sc or 3.8 n/a along with a 3.4 DOHC are V6 engines and are (size wise) more of a natural fit for the Fiero. There are threads here where people are turning low 11's and high 12's in the quarter with tuned 3.8sc's making them as fast as the V8's and in some cases faster. The V6's also accept the Fiero Manual trany's better. Good gas milage is also available with these.

I am planning on a ser. III 3800sc with a F40 6 speed swap in my Fiero. I am more into the autobahn driving than the quarter mile.

This is just my opinion and I am sure alot of others will be posting their ideas as well. You can also click on the search button at the top right of the page and search for "engine swap". There you'll find alot of prior threads on the swaps people have done and talked about. Both pro and con.

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[This message has been edited by Fiero1Fan (edited 03-25-2006).]

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Report this Post03-25-2006 03:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ducattimanSend a Private Message to ducattimanDirect Link to This Post
Eh Fiero1Fan now u have my interest..first question is how the hell do u thinking that ur goneing to find a SerIII 3800SC here is europe..or maybe u have some info that ur not sharing..as for me pickings r slim in europe...then i again i have no idea what is over in germany but there is like nothing over here....do u have some source's???
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Report this Post03-25-2006 03:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero1FanClick Here to visit Fiero1Fan's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero1FanDirect Link to This Post
No, no sources over here. I'll probably be getting the 3800 from the states and I hope to get the F40 here though. Saab and I hope some Opels have the F40 so it should be available fairly soon. I do know that Fie Ro found his 3800sc here in Germany so they are available but very seldom.

When are you going to be needing your 3800?

[This message has been edited by Fiero1Fan (edited 03-25-2006).]

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roadrunner.ts
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Report this Post03-25-2006 04:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for roadrunner.tsSend a Private Message to roadrunner.tsDirect Link to This Post
thanks guys. please others give some more.
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Report this Post03-25-2006 06:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PaulJKSend a Private Message to PaulJKDirect Link to This Post
If you use the SEARCH, you will find more info than you probably care to read on the subject. Somebody asks the same question about once a month, I think ...
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Report this Post03-25-2006 07:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986 Fiero GTSend a Private Message to 1986 Fiero GTDirect Link to This Post
One of the very great things about Fieros is that they're pretty much a universal recipient. Call them the "Type AB" of cars, if you will... If an engine will physically fit into the Fiero's frame, no matter what it is, it can be swapped in (provided you can fabricate/bullsh*t very well, and wire like no tomorrow).
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Report this Post03-25-2006 09:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero BrickSend a Private Message to Fiero BrickDirect Link to This Post
I'll give you my take on it, I guess. Some people have a lot more experience, but I read a lot, so here's an overview of the choices you mentioned.

All of these are as reliable as you want to make them (provided you service them properly, rebuild things that need it on install, and use good parts) except for a turbocharged 2.8 liter v6; nobody makes parts to allow the engine to hold the power for more than a year or two's use at best. In all cases, the stock automatic transmission isn't the best for reliability; use a 4t60, 4t65, or 4t80 if you want an automatic with power. The 4t65e HD in particular has the aftermarket support to be built to take monstrous punishment.

Cadillac Northstar (4.6 liter DOHC V8):
Possibly the most difficult engine to install, probably not a swap for beginner. The wiring is not easy and there is a lot of fitment work to do. You can manage it without cutting framework or the trunk, but doing so is time-consuming.
Stock Northstars run from around 260 hp in early models to over 300 hp (with similar torque) in the later models with variable valve timing (which requires an expensive aftermarket computer to run correctly in a Fiero). The aftermarket support for them is pretty good, if only from CHRFab.com, and expensive at that. They've built northstars into the 800 hp range or more.
The Northstar is an aluminum block & head engine and weighs a bit more than the stock Fiero 2.8l v6. The stock transmission that comes with the N* is, however, very heavy, and will throw the weight distribution off if used instead of the Fiero manual.
Northstar gas mileage without spirited driving can reach the high 20's on the highway.

Chevrolet Small Block v8
The install can be a bit tough, they don't mate up to stock Fiero transmissions without adapters, and you have to move some stuff around to keep from having to cut the frame.
Stock small blocks run from relative dogs with 200 hp and less than 280 ft./lbs of torque to As far as power goes, the small block engines run from real stinkers to 2000 hp twin and quad-turbo monsters. You can even get 32-valve heads for them. Aftermarket parts can run from dirt cheap to as expensive as you can afford.
Early small block chevy engines are iron block & head and heavier than the stock fiero v6, they will throw off the fiero's weight distribution. You can, however, obtain aluminum blocks & heads and/or use a later-model small bock, such as the LS1.
Small block gas mileage can be aweful or reach the mid or possibly even high twenties on the highway with a late-model engine, such as the LS1.

Buick 3.8 liter supercharged v6
The install isn't that difficult. The engine mates up to a stock Fiero transmission, or you can use the one that comes with it.
Stock numbers on these engines run (see below, somebody had the attention span to find and post accurate numbers). These engines have a strong aftermarket that isn't much more expensive than the small block chevy. They can be modified to produce somewhere around or over 1000 hp (with a much larger SC, or a turbo).
The engine is iron-block and iron-head, plus the weight of a supercharger, so it is heavier than the stock fiero v6 and will affect weight distribution.
The 3800SC gets excellent gas mileage; on a stock engine, you can get up to 31 or 32 mpg on the highway.

Cadillac 4.9 liter v8
The install is one of the easiest. The wiring can be a pain, but the engine fits without cutting anything and you can either use the stock fiero trans without an adapter or the 4t60 that comes with the engine.
Stock, the engine produces a little less than 200 hp and about 280 ft/lbs of torque. There are a few options for producing more power, but the aftermarket is nonexistant compared to the engines mentioned above. Producing about 240 hp wouldn't be too difficult with what's available.
The engine is aluminum block, iron heads, so it weighs either about the same as the stock v6 or less, I can't remember which.
The 4.9 gets excellent gas mileage, high twenties to possibly 30 or 31 mpg on the highway.

Turbocharged 2.8l v6
Install... well, it's putting on a turbo kit or making one. It can be a cakewalk or exceedingly difficult.
Power produced by a turbo set up could probably run close to 300 hp with an extreme set-up. Normally they make more like 180-200 hp and 250 ft./lbs. As I said before, how long you can produce this power is a toss of the dice.
Weight isn't much worse than the stock 2.8.

Chevrolet LQ1 (24-valve, 3.4L v6) (AKA 3.4 TDC, AKA 3.4 DOHC)
Easy install except for the wiring harness, perhaps the easiest. Like the 4.9, it either attaches directly to the fiero transmission or uses the stock transmission.
The LQ1 produces either 210 or 215 hp and similar torque numbers naturally aspirated. However, largely because its higher redline combined with the gearing of the manual Fiero transmissions (85 and 86 3.65 4 speed, or either 5 speed) is wonderful, it runs the 1/4 mile faster than an unmodified Cadillac 4.9 or 1980's small block will. Aftermarket support is almost nonexistant, but the engine responds very well to being turbocharged and has been modified to produce 240 wheel horsepower naturally aspirated.
Gas mileage is in the high twenties and up to 30 or 31 mpg on the highway.
Two special notes. First, as far as reliability goes, you HAVE to remember to replace the timing belt every 60k miles, or you WILL put a valve through a piston eventually. Second, one of the prototype Fieros (I forget which) was equipped with the 3.1 liter DOHC 24-valve forerunner of this engine; Pontiac probably would have put the LQ1 in the Fiero had production of the car continued into the early 90's.

I don't know enough about the 4 banger swaps possible to mention them here, nor do I know anything really about the Aurora v6 (which is a v6 version of the N*) except that it has been done.

Edit: Whew! That's the longest post I've made yet, and on 0 sleep no less. It does make me think about how much I've learned since I've gotten into Fieros, though.

[This message has been edited by Fiero Brick (edited 03-25-2006).]

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Report this Post03-25-2006 09:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986 Fiero GTSend a Private Message to 1986 Fiero GTDirect Link to This Post
There is one 3.5L "Shortshar" V-6 that has been installed ina Fiero. It's in Rickady88GT's 88GT. Personally, I think it's one of the cleanest, best looking swaps ever performed with a Fiero, but that's just me. Besides the fact that it's a DOHC V-6, it's almost a perfect match for the Fiero. As far as I know, he's even managed to get that sucker pass emmissions, and got one of those coveted silver stickers for his door jamb. Good stuff, very good stuff.
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Report this Post03-25-2006 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JD86GT350Send a Private Message to JD86GT350Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by PaulJK:

If you use the SEARCH, you will find more info than you probably care to read on the subject. Somebody asks the same question about once a month, I think ...

ditto

but some quick notes. 350 milage can range from the teens if you run a 3 speed auto, to high 20s with a fuel injected motor with a stick. With my carb and 5-speed I can get near 20 on the highway, but around town I like the go pedal too much to get more than 15.

Also, do your reasearch on the weight issue, its fairly well documented that a 350 doesn't weigh a whole lot more than a 2.8. Your transmission of choice can really factor into the weight as I understand the 4 speed auto is heavy.
I'd be curious to know if the people saying it causes bad handling have driven one?

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Report this Post03-25-2006 11:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tesmith66Send a Private Message to tesmith66Direct Link to This Post
I have an iron-headed 350 in mine with an Isuzu 5 speed and the battery in the trunk. I have not experienced any adverse handling issues with this setup. It feels just like it did with the 2.8, except for the awesome sound and triple the power.

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Report this Post03-25-2006 11:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
Well lets clear up some "myth's" starting with weights:

The 2.8L weighs 388 lbs
A 3.4L pushrod with a carb weighs 375 lbs
A 3.4L DOHC weighs 468 lbs
A 3800SC weighs 450 lbs
4.9L weighs 395 lbs
Northstar V-8 weighs 425 lbs
Chevy ZZ4 crate engine weighs 440 lbs
Chevy LT1 with iron heads and TPI weighs 472 lbs (for a carb'd engine subract 5-8 lbs)
The Fiero manual transaxles weigh about 72-75 lbs
The 6-spd G6 trans should weigh in around 85-90 lbs. (I'll see if I can get Archie to weigh one )
The TH125 auto weighs about 125 lbs
the 4-spd aut transaxles weigh about 135-145 lbs

NOTE: engine/trans weights are dry, and without torque converter and clutch assemblies.

Any weight added by an engine swap does not "throw off the handling" only because the weight difference isn't as much as most people believe and is added forward of the rear axles.
I have raced my car on a few road courses, The difference from the 2.8L V-6 with an auto trans and the ZZ4 V-8 with a 4-spd manual is only 30 lbs difference. 30lbs forward of the rear axle is the difference between a 180 lbs person and a 210 lbs person driving the car. I have not seen much difference in how may car handles just by the engine swaps. I got more change by switching wheel/tire sizes.
Weight distribution may change by 1% or so, But many move the battery to the front and so the distribution basically doesn't change.

Even if you use the 3.4L DOHC which is about 80 lbs more than a stock V-6, You do not affect handling very much if at all. If the chassis/suspension were that sensative to weight changes forward of the rear axle, Then the 50 lbs difference between the stock manual trans and the stock auto trans would also affect the handling. Remember, most of the weight changes are between the axles so it's the middle of the car that sees the weight. How much of a handling difference is there between just the driver and a driver and passenger in a Fiero? Not much and that's adding at least 100-150 lbs more. Unless you have the car set-up strictly for racing, any weight differences between the swaps will not affect the car that much. Even in 1/4 mile times, adding 80 lbs will only affect the time by roughly .1 seconds, But you are also increasing power so it's not really a factor.

Depending on the SBC, You DO NOT need to cut the frame at all. My ZZ4 only required a small hole in the sheet metal to clear the motor of the Electric water pump. If you used a remote electric water pump, you would not need to cut anything.

As for gas mileage:

The 3800SC's seem to be the best at it running into the 30's for highway mileage.
My 2.8L V-6 with auto trans got 19 city/ 24 highway
The 3.4L pushrod with a carb and auto trans got 18 city and 24 highway
The ZZ4 V-8 with the 4-spd manual trans gets 18 city and 24 highway.

Archie has gotten around 28 mpg with a TPI V-8 and a 5-spd.

Just changinging the trans can boost your gas mileage. With the manual 6-speed you should be able to get most of the engine swaps to get near or above 30 mpg very easily.

If you want decent performance, reliabilty, gas mileage and daily driving, I would recommend the 3800SC with the 6-spd manual trans. You should be able to get into the high 30's for mileage. The 3800SC also has a decent aftermarket if you want to boost the power a little more.


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[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 03-25-2006).]

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Report this Post03-25-2006 12:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for blackramsSend a Private Message to blackramsDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Oreif:
If you want decent performance, reliabilty, gas mileage and daily driving, I would recommend the 3800SC with the 6-spd manual trans. You should be able to get into the high 30's for mileage. The 3800SC also has a decent aftermarket if you want to boost the power a little more.

I'm in agreement on this particular combo and have a 88 T Top Formula just waiting for this conversion. Anyone doing this particular swap yet?

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Report this Post03-25-2006 02:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ducattimanSend a Private Message to ducattimanDirect Link to This Post
HAHHAHA GVD (very bad swear word in dutch) i really love when Oreif steps up to the plate to put things straight + for u big guy

Oreif i am not questioning u but u sure the Northstar only weights in at 425lbs,,1 reason why i never started with 1 is because i thought it was a lot heavier sitting at around 490lbs+??

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Report this Post03-25-2006 02:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LoW_KeYSend a Private Message to LoW_KeYDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero Brick:

Buick 3.8 liter supercharged v6
The install isn't that difficult. The engine mates up to a stock Fiero transmission, or you can use the one that comes with it.
Stock numbers on these engines run from I believe 220 hp and 260 ft/lbs on the Series I, to 240 hp and 290ish ft/lbs on the Series II, to 260 hp and probably over 300 ft/lbs on the Series III that I'm not sure has been installed in a Fiero yet. These engines have a strong aftermarket that isn't much more expensive than the small block chevy. They can be modified to produce somewhere around or over 1000 hp (with a much larger SC, or a turbo).
The engine is iron-block and iron-head, plus the weight of a supercharger, so it is heavier than the stock fiero v6 and will affect weight distribution.
The 3800SC gets excellent gas mileage; on a stock engine, you can get up to 31 or 32 mpg on the highway.

clear it up a lil more with the motor

series 1 was a bit various
92/93 - 205 HP/260 TQ
94/95 - 225 HP/275 TQ (pulley size was different)

series 2
240 HP/280 TQ

series 3
260/280 TQ

as the whole weight thing goes I don't notice one bit of difference, except the back end wanting to break loose when I nail it stock or modded they typically see the same mileage. I drove down to Indiana to have Darth Fiero work on my car 200 miles half a tank. I'm not lightly modded either, all in what you like. The v8's will still get you 25+ mpg, I remember someone saying archie got 25 mpg with the yellow chop top if I'm not mistaken.

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Report this Post03-25-2006 04:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GonsaiPKSend a Private Message to GonsaiPKDirect Link to This Post
Don't really have much to add, except for one thing: take a ride in a car with the motor/trans combo you want. Heck, just try to take as many rides as you can; you might be surprised. It's not all about the numbers. Unless you want the quickest times at the drag strip, you're not going to find the best swap for you based on horsepower/torque/mileage/weight/cost alone.
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Report this Post03-25-2006 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for aerosmithr0ckerSend a Private Message to aerosmithr0ckerDirect Link to This Post
id like to clear up what tinton said size wise on the lt1 and ls1 they are pretty much the same size as a 350sbc only difference really is material made out of, typical old 350 is cast iron block, cast iron heads. LT1 is cast iron block with aluminum heads, ls1 is all aluminum. Biggest difference is they changed motor mount setups between the three and the accessory mounting.

Personally i would either go with a ls1 or 3800sc both have good power. Both have a decent cost to power ratio and they arent huge heavyweight engines either really.

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Report this Post03-25-2006 06:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jstrickerSend a Private Message to jstrickerDirect Link to This Post
I've never done a 3800 swap of any kind so I'm not going to comment on them.

I have done the 2.8 to 3.4 pushrod swap. I've done the small block Chevy swap. I've done 4 4.9 installs. I have a cradle prepped for the Northstar in my shop.

A lot of what swap is "best" is personal opinion. The 4.9, mechanically and with a couple of trans brackets from GM for the 4T60E fits in the bay physically like it was made for it. Ed Parks no longer sells the "kits" but a forum member has picked up the harness sales from him and I'm pretty sure if you didn't want to get your hands dirty Ed would probably sell you the axles for the swap. The motor mounts are not that difficult to build if you want to do them yourself. I like Ed's setup that requires no dogbone and to do that you need a mount on both the front (firewall) and rear of the engine as well as the front mount. You could probably make them to be bolted in, but I weld all of mine in. They are mounted on rubber mounts except for the two "outrigger" mounts that are mounted on poly. The engine is very secure. With our heavy Finale we have run a best of 14.293 at 98 mph with a stock engine. If you really, really wanted to get into the 13's a 50 or 75 shot of laughing gas would get you there. We can run over 150 mph and get 31 mpg on the highway. The engine was dyno'd with 171 rwhp and 244 lbs/ft torque, but it actually has more torque than that because the instant the load was applied the torque was dropping. 171 rwhp coincides with very close to 200 engine hp which is what GM rated the 4.9 at.

The 4.9 will require a wiring harness, mounts, axles, and about $600-$800 worth of small parts to do it right. When I say "to do it right" I'm talking about new oil and filter, new trans fluid and filter, new idler, new tensioner, new belt, plugs, cap and rotor, maybe plug wires, a good free flowing exhaust, the correct hoses (fuel line rated for MPFI), etc. I also like to move the battery up front because it makes the car so much easier to work on, but it can be done with the battery in the stock location.

The 3.4L pushrod is an easier swap if you're coming out with the 2.8L Fiero engine. Everything pretty much bolts up except you have to drill new starter holes and modify a couple of brackets. You will gain about 20-25 hp going to a good 3.4. Our engine in the car dyno'd at 137 rwhp and IMHO that's about as much as you're going to get from a 3.4L pushrod using the Fiero intake.

The small block Chevy in the roadster is an early, all iron, TPI equipped engine with a stron overhaul. I haven't dyno'd it (yet) but I suspect that it will have about 325 engine hp so maybe around 265 or so rwhp. Archie's kit takes most of the questions out of the installation. On our car we are using an Isuzu 5 speed and the clearance is tight. I doubt that I can change the alternator belt without dropping the cradle down in the back but since I have a lift that is something that is only removing a couple of bolts and letting it come down with a transmission jack so that's not a concern. I can barely get a pinky between the frame and the transmission housing and between the front damper and the frame. You also need to do some wiring with the SBC swap even if you go carb so be prepared to do that. There is some welding and fabricating with the SBC. I have never cared for Archies torque strut location and am going to add another one to the firewall. If I do, I'll post pictures of how I added that. It does have the advantage, generally, of being able to use the stock transmission and stock axles so that's an expense you won't have. Most water pump setups do require cutting the strut tower. If you're using a TPI you either have to invent a linkage to relocate the TPS or notch the strut tower because you won't have clearance for it if you don't.

Every one of these swaps is an exercise in solving small problems. Little things like finding the right fuel line fittings, or the correct wiring ends, or hooking up an air filter system, or fabbing up an exhaust will either take you quite a lot of time or quite a few $$ if you take it to a shop. Our exhaust system for the 4.9 uses the stock crossover and then 2 1/2" pipes the rest of the way with mandrel bends so if flows very freely and can be made with parts from the shelf if you weld. The exhaust costs only about $140 in parts to do but the way we run them, you lose the lower trunk well. I personally don't miss having it on my car, but some people want to keep it.

If you have any specific questions about these swaps, shoot, but that's about all the general stuff I have now off the top of my head.

John Stricker

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Oreif
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Report this Post03-26-2006 09:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ducattiman:


Oreif i am not questioning u but u sure the Northstar only weights in at 425lbs,,1 reason why i never started with 1 is because i thought it was a lot heavier sitting at around 490lbs+??

No I am not 100% positive. The weight for the Northstar was posted by someone who said that was how much it weighed when had one shipped. So I cannot say how accurate that number is or what was exactly on the engine (full intake, accessories, brackets, etc.) for all I know it could have just been the long blong (block and heads).
Being that the Northstar is an aluminum block roughly the same size as the 4.9L block but using larger aluminum heads instead of iron heads, 425 lbs really doesn't sound that far off.
If someone has actually weighed a complete Northstar engine, Please post it's weight.


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roadrunner.ts
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Report this Post03-26-2006 10:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for roadrunner.tsSend a Private Message to roadrunner.tsDirect Link to This Post
this is all good stuff.
thanks guys.
+'s coming.
anyone got some more?
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Report this Post03-26-2006 11:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by roadrunner.ts:

What are the pros and cons of 4.6northstar.
I am open to any and all ideas. Want some real performance, with reliability, and would like to stay streetable and economical (say at least 20mpg minimum, like to be closer to 24-25mpg highway, or better), and maintain accessories like cruise and a/c.

Give me some input on what you have done and experienced. Thanks guys.

I only drive N* auto tranny, hehe. Reliabilty? Great cause I'm using the same N* auto tranny. Performance? In stock form it's only rated at 270-300 stock. Using the N* tranny is on the heavy side compared to the 5-speed or the latest 6-speed manuals. That being stated, I do get into it w/o issues which is my 1st reason for having a N*....reliablity. Streetability and economicalness? Streetablitiy is Excellent. When people hear it, they know it's a V8. Economicalness is perhaps the best IMO for CA high gas prices. I have to use premuim, my gas mileage ranges from 30-34MPG @ 70MPH using the N*275 tranny. Due to the additives, outside CA I can use regular gas.


I use similar N* diameter rear tires on my Fiero. This might be a factor in my lower RPMs.

------------------
Archie's Choptop conversion #11, #15, Redux & # 20

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