I got reminded today why I keep extra GT Sail panels in my garage. Anybody else have one of these blow out going down the highway? It seems I go through this every couple of years, the 3M Double sided tape just loses its grip eventually, and of course I am usually really "gettin" it when it blows out, and If this has ever happened to you, then you know these things do not usually survive "re-entry"

Has anyone come up with a better or more permanent way to affix these? I am getting tired of having to keep a replacement set on hand.

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1987 SE V-6 Notchback(Hardtop Model, no Sunroof!) with the following Mods:
87 Sport Coupe Nose (I love this Look)
88 GT Rear Clip (Combined with a Coupe Nose this is it for me)
Wing Relocared an inch and a half rearward(this mod is almost never spotted, even by Fiero Owners)
Repainted in 1995 Corvette Competition Yellow Base / Clear
Custom Side Intake Scoop with "Ram Air VI" Decal
Dark Tinted GT Sail Panels
TSW Trophy Wheels
Pegasus Shield Fender Decals
And now a new addition!
1987 Fiero GT "Project"
Stay posted for details !
Check out My website at http://www.auto-classics.biz/acmain.htm

No,
But I'm about to put a set on and I am asking the same question.

Short of drilling holes in them and running ugly screws through them, there must be a better way, or a better material to attach them with.

I would imagine that windshield urathane would work- test a dab of it on an old sailpanel to see if it sticks.

The windshield glue is the best stuff, I had mine done that way. It works so well once dry the only way to get them off is to break them.

Alex

Alex,

Anything good enough for that spectacular machine of yours , has got to be worth a try on my daily driver.

------------------
1987 SE V-6 Notchback(Hardtop Model, no Sunroof!) with the following Mods:
87 Sport Coupe Nose (I love this Look)
88 GT Rear Clip (Combined with a Coupe Nose this is it for me)
Wing Relocared an inch and a half rearward(this mod is almost never spotted, even by Fiero Owners)
Repainted in 1995 Corvette Competition Yellow Base / Clear
Custom Side Intake Scoop with "Ram Air VI" Decal
Dark Tinted GT Sail Panels
TSW Trophy Wheels
Pegasus Shield Fender Decals
And now a new addition!
1987 Fiero GT "Project"
Stay posted for details !
Check out My website at http://www.auto-classics.biz/acmain.htm

quote Originally posted by Phil: I would imagine that windshield urathane would work- test a dab of it on an old sailpanel to see if it sticks.

quote Originally posted by FieroGTRwideboby: The windshield glue is the best stuff, I had mine done that way. It works so well once dry the only way to get them off is to break them. Alex

thats what I used on mine, no problems.

No Laughing now.

I used Liquid Nail.

Been on the Interstate cruising at 80 MPH
and have had NO problems.

In my business I use Silaprene.It comes in a caulk tube and once it cures you have to cut it in order to release whatever it is holding.I have quite a few dollars tied up in the panels that are going on my car (new panels and $300 in artwork) and don't want to lose them.Silaprene comes in black,white,and gray.With Gray being the best.I'll still probably use black,since plans call for the car to be black at this time.

You can always try some silicon, once it sets it holds on real tight. And if it holds a fish tank together, it should have no problem holding a sail panel on.

Tim

Double-sided tape..........

Now, having said that I believe that a lot of people make three basic mistakes:

Mistake 1) incomplete removal of original double-sided tape. Must be clean, residue-free and dry. (use Lift-Off, Goo-Gone & plastic putty knife for best results)

Mistake 2) Poor quality or low-adhesion double-sided tape. There are different brands and different grades of holding power.
I dont remember the stock# off-hand but 3M is the best choice here. Perhaps someone can pipe in here with the appropriate p/n.

Mistake 3) Not "doubling-up" the tape in areas of the sail panel that do not fit flush. Some areas of the sail panel usually do not fit flush with the sail panel frame. This varies with the brand of sail panel you buy. I have Kahine's and they simply do not have the proper curvature at the bottom so at the botom portion of the sail panel frame I have two put one layer on top of another to ensure the tape adequately contacts the sail panel. Also, another area which almost always needs "doubling-up" is the broad, wide section of the window. This is where the wind enters the sail panel and will try to lift it up. (and off your car)

These are just my opinions of course but I can tell you that mine have never fallen off!

Kit (86 GT)

quote Originally posted by Kitskaboodle: Double-sided tape.......... Now, having said that I believe that a lot of people make three basic mistakes: Mistake 1) incomplete removal of original double-sided tape. Must be clean, residue-free and dry. (use Lift-Off, Goo-Gone & plastic putty knife for best results) Mistake 2) Poor quality or low-adhesion double-sided tape. There are different brands and different grades of holding power. I dont remember the stock# off-hand but 3M is the best choice here. Perhaps someone can pipe in here with the appropriate p/n. Mistake 3) Not "doubling-up" the tape in areas of the sail panel that do not fit flush. Some areas of the sail panel usually do not fit flush with the sail panel frame. This varies with the brand of sail panel you buy. I have Kahine's and they simply do not have the proper curvature at the bottom so at the botom portion of the sail panel frame I have two put one layer on top of another to ensure the tape adequately contacts the sail panel. Also, another area which almost always needs "doubling-up" is the broad, wide section of the window. This is where the wind enters the sail panel and will try to lift it up. (and off your car) These are just my opinions of course but I can tell you that mine have never fallen off! Kit (86 GT)

Kit,

I have always done a complete removal of the old tape, and proper prep of the surface prior to putting on the "new" tape.

I have also ALWAYS used the best 3M Double sided tape available.

I have also always doubled up in the appropriate areas that you mentioned, and for proper fitment, I usually test fit it several times.

Despite this, I still usually only get a year or two out of them before they need to be reattached. Perhaps it is just the difference between our climates. I think that I will be trying the solution that Alex Provided, of using Windshield Urathane.

Thank you for your input, and your insights.

I'll chime in here.
I've only seen one case that might mahe me want to steer away from the "glue-on" method ... In that case the "black paint" was smeared on the 1/4 window where the glue was applied. I can post pics if requested..
if this is the issue what kind of glue do I need to use?
Climate wise I'm closer to the north east that sunny FLA.. ;(

[This message has been edited by NY_FIERO (edited 04-02-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Phil: I would imagine that windshield urathane would work- test a dab of it on an old sailpanel to see if it sticks.

I tired this on my 86 GT, it "ate" through the black area and made it look smeared, and the panels both ripped of the car , almost at the same time.

[This message has been edited by lwszabo (edited 04-02-2006).]

I think I'll be using the Silicone. I have experience with it from large Aquariums and the stuff is great. I thank everyone for the info about the other materials as I have been wondering about which ones to use.

------------------
The Steel Lady: Pix to follow........

Super Bowl XL CHAMPS!!!

My opinion of silicone is that it is more of a sealant than an adhesive. No, I don't have a solution, I'm just not sure that silicone is the solution.

quote Originally posted by carnut122: My opinion of silicone is that it is more of a sealant than an adhesive. No, I don't have a solution, I'm just not sure that silicone is the solution.

Yes it is orginally designed as a sealant, but try using it as a glue on 2 surfaces and then try and pull them apart (after it has cured). You will see what I mean...

If someone has a close up pic of the red Aldino with the 3800SC which was at the Heartland Fiero meet summer before last, it had a clean application. I believe he used a few discreetly placed bolts or screws, and used a type of rubber grommet which I think came from Radio shack. It actually didn't look bad at all. More info would be nice.

David Breeze

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Pantera Rebody Kits

After loosing one on the highway that was mounted with the windsheild stuff, I switched to clear silicone. Now I have no worries.

quote Originally posted by Kitskaboodle: Double-sided tape.......... Now, having said that I believe that a lot of people make three basic mistakes: Mistake 1) incomplete removal of original double-sided tape. Must be clean, residue-free and dry. (use Lift-Off, Goo-Gone & plastic putty knife for best results) Mistake 2) Poor quality or low-adhesion double-sided tape. There are different brands and different grades of holding power. I dont remember the stock# off-hand but 3M is the best choice here. Perhaps someone can pipe in here with the appropriate p/n. Mistake 3) Not "doubling-up" the tape in areas of the sail panel that do not fit flush. Some areas of the sail panel usually do not fit flush with the sail panel frame. This varies with the brand of sail panel you buy. I have Kahine's and they simply do not have the proper curvature at the bottom so at the botom portion of the sail panel frame I have two put one layer on top of another to ensure the tape adequately contacts the sail panel. Also, another area which almost always needs "doubling-up" is the broad, wide section of the window. This is where the wind enters the sail panel and will try to lift it up. (and off your car) These are just my opinions of course but I can tell you that mine have never fallen off!

I agree with you kit... as long as the surfaces are properly prepped, and the right tape is used - I have yet to loose a quarter window (and I've installed OEM, Aftermarket, & Fiberglass Aftermarket windows). I have always used 3M's Acrylic Foam Tapes (probably the PT 1500 for this type of application) that are designed for exactly this sort of thing. We also have extreme weather here (ranging from extreme cold to extreme hot), and I've never lost a panel.

For those using super-strength epoxies or adhesives... be sure to use only as much as you need, as you may have to, or want to remove those parts some day!

Where can I get this 3M double side acrylic tape.
Does Lowe's, Home Depot or ???? have it...

I'm almost ready to mount aftermarket quarter windows...

Thanks

Tim

[This message has been edited by Mr Gs 88GT (edited 04-03-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Mr Gs 88GT: Where can I get this 3M double side acrylic tape. Does Lowe's, Home Depot or ???? have it...

It's actually an automotive-specific product, so you won't likely find it at your local home improvement store. My local "Checker" was out of stock when I needed it, but both the local NAPA & Advanced Auto parts had it on the shelf (Advanced Auto was cheaper). Buy at least 2 rolls... probably 3 to be safe (at least of the smaller size).

Before you install it, be certain that all of the old tape & reside is gone - if you haven't done this already, it will take some time & elbow grease. So be paitent and thorough, don't rush. Also be sure that you don't apply the tape until the temperature is appropriate (for all items: the tape, part, and car - not just the air temp). Finally, don't "test" it until the tapes' adhesive has fully cured (typically 24-48 hours depending on conditions)... although be aware that once you've got it mounted, don't expect to make any "minor" adjustments without ruining the tape already applied.

Thanks for the info...

I guess I'll try Advance Auto, first, their the closest.

From what I've read, prep is everything,.

Tim

Can anyone outline where the tape is needed to be doubled up?
can I double up ALL of it?

bump~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
hehe
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

I am reading this closely. Yes, I attached my side scoops and slowly watched them fall off. I did not wait till they blew off going down the road. Cant imagine one of those hitting a car behind you.

I know everyone is talking epoxy, glue, and tape. It is possible to do a clean installation with bolt or screw? Nothing beats a mechanical fastener.

Ive always used a tube of silicone adhesive/ sealant. Just run a bead all around the opening and laid the window in it, taped in place and not moved at least overnite. Then the next day, ran a strip of tape around the inside and outside edges of the glass and put a small bead around it. Wiped in one stroke all the way around and gave it a nice looking, clean factory look. Had no gap to hold water and drip for an hour after washing and I never had one come loose. I see taped ones popping off all the time, no matter what tape is used. Ive also seen them screwed on and heads covered with black caps (ugly imo).

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 04-20-2006).]

quote Originally posted by NY_FIERO: Can anyone outline where the tape is needed to be doubled up? can I double up ALL of it?

I wouldn't recommend doubling up the tape (unless necessary) - tape-to-tape bonds are not usually as strong as tape-to-surface bonds.

Digging through the archives, the only references I found to doubling up on tape was in reference to the leading edge (specifically if there is obviously a "gap" there when the other surfaces are event). I would probably put a single layer of tape all the way around, then position the window on the car. Without pushing or forcing the window surface to make contact... check for obvious gaps in the contact surface (especially on the leading edge, as it'll be the most likely to "catch wind"). If there is a notable gap, that would be grounds for doubling-up the tape, as if you "press" it into place - that tension will most likely be a reason for the tape to not adhere strongly.

Also something to note, while reading through some of the archived articles for this topic - I ran across a post from FieroDave who makes a strong note about the original windows being attached with 3M Tape - (Product# 06450) - although it is only available in very large rolls. (run a search for the part number at 3M.com - it gave me a link, but the forum doesn't like addresses that large).
Here's the topic I was reading through: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20030204-2-025414.html

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: I am reading this closely. Yes, I attached my side scoops and slowly watched them fall off. I did not wait till they blew off going down the road. Cant imagine one of those hitting a car behind you. I know everyone is talking epoxy, glue, and tape. It is possible to do a clean installation with bolt or screw? Nothing beats a mechanical fastener.

As some have mentioned... if the surfaces are prepped properly, then heavy duty tapes should not be an issue. But I have seen people literally "screw" their windows in - but I'm not a fan of the resulting appearance. I would assume that using a black/ or dark finished screw would help it "disappear" - but it's still just not for me.

[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 04-20-2006).]