Here is my project car, a 1986 Fiero GT. I decided to install a 3.4L DOHC motor in it and wire it up. This is the same car I built the headers for and custom intake. It is still a work in progress but one day she will be finished. Hope ya'll enjoy the pics. I still have to work on the brakes but that is something simple.
Here are a ew videos to view. Keep in mind I didn't want to push the car too hard on the road....NO BRAKES!
Oh my gosh that sounds nice! Can I have a ride. Almost makes me want to do a TDC instead of my 3800sc. Good job Bob. Car doesn't look that bad, wheels are nice.
[This message has been edited by green87 (edited 10-17-2006).]
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12:54 PM
Derek2M6 Member
Posts: 289 From: Guelph, Ontario, Canada Registered: May 2006
Thanks Daniel. My vacuum tube to the brake booster puckered inwards so I had no brake assist. The link pin I used for the upper motor mount bent when I took off hard, so now I have to rework the motor mounts. If it wasn't for those two things i would have hit it hard. It's just day by day till it's done.
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12:59 PM
procarnut Member
Posts: 622 From: Blum, Texas USA Registered: Mar 2006
Just FYI. Here are a few things i did to get that sound.
Built and installed headers Flowmaster mufler Port & polish heads Retard intake 6* and exhaust 16* (added 10* overlap and increased power in upper rpm range) Built intake (cut stock plenum and welded a pipe)
The rest is cosmetics.
But it was fun to finally drive it. I took it out Sat night and I ran out of tach before I ran out of power!!!!!
looks like a 96+ engine running with the OBD2 intake and a getrag tranny?
a couple questions that will help future swappers.. how did you get the computer to not cause problems witht he manual tranny? why use the tiny fiero holly throttle body rather than the larger 96+ TB or a N* LS1 TB? the "dogbone" link does look like i would put a lot of twisting force on itself when pulled or compressed.
I tried several differen cosmetic tubing for the vac lines(clear reinforced ones, and colors silicon ones) all would colapse once the engine bay heated up, I ended up using fuel line for it because it was stiff enough.
[This message has been edited by Kohburn (edited 10-17-2006).]
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01:22 PM
Tom Slick Member
Posts: 4342 From: Alvarado, TX Registered: May 2003
Well you are correct. It's a 96 dohc and a getrag tranny. I disabled all wires from the PCM pertaining to the transmission. I dont have a SES light on but that doesn't mean I don't have codes. The reason I went with the 2.8l throttle body is because I planned on adding a turbo later after I get my other block built. However I am thinking about going with a northstar TB. The dog bone (linkpin) will be modified to prevent the twist affect. I plan on welding a locking bracket to the mount to keep it from twisting. I plan on getting a pcm from Loyde at FastFieros to eliminate possible trans problems and to tune it a little better. As it is right now it works great. Since I did time the cams 6* and 16* retarded it does have a rough idle untill it gets to 1100 rpms but I expected that for the gains in the uper rpm range.
Oh I don't thing the bulb is working for the ses light so I will have to do some more checking.
Bob
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01:34 PM
procarnut Member
Posts: 622 From: Blum, Texas USA Registered: Mar 2006
Thanks Tom. That's why we should help each other out, to promote the sucess of the 3.4L DOHC. Yall still have an open invatation to come down to my shop.
Keep an eye on where you got that dogbone mounted to the engine. I have heard of a few people, including myself totally breaking the aluminum casting thingy. It might not happen to you, but it is a possibility. I broke mine when I swapped trannies, and the ecm didnt like the new VSS signal. The engine would jerk alot, and finally the thing broke off. Before that I didnt have any problems, but I would assume that the jerking somewhat simulated what would happen with a lot of hard launching, and serious driving.
But other than that, your swap has to rank right up there with Erik's on how good it sounds. Your swap looks really clean too. What kind of spark wires are those?
[This message has been edited by XzotikGT (edited 10-17-2006).]
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03:16 PM
PFF
System Bot
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
That's a very nice, very clean install. Sounds nice too. I found your other thread about building the headers and pipes. Must do mine again one day (next time something breaks probably!!). I have to agree though about the torque strut mount. Just does not look strong enough to me. I know others have used that point with no problems, others have had problems. Me, I avoided it altogether and went with a mid engine strut from the tranny case. Still, each to his own and it still looks very nice. I see your spare migrated to the trunk !! I moved my battery back to the stock location after trying it up front, put the ecm in the stock location and mounted the coils on the strut tower. Cramped but I like it better as it frees up the front.
The wires are Accel 8mm red wires. I took the old wires and broke them down to the raw components. The plastic stems were honed out with a reem bit on a drill press. Once the wires would slide thru that, I just cut the wires to length and crimped the ends. The ends have a ridge that keeps the plug clips from slidding up the stem. The plug ends (from the new wires) were plugged into the coils. I figured it would be impossible to find red wires so I just made a set.
Oh, Thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions. I'm always open to recommendations. I will be more than happy to share what I know or don't know to help the forum.
I need to stop reading Threads like these, I have already talked myself into doing a DOHC, then talked myself out and now back into to doing one. The install looks so clean and good. Cant wait to see it in person to be able to take it all in. Are you going to bring it to this months meeting?
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10:45 PM
Formula88 Member
Posts: 53788 From: Raleigh NC Registered: Jan 2001
Very nice, but you've got to be killing yourself with that Fiero throttle body. It doesn't flow enough for a 3.4 pushrod, let alone a 3.4 DOHC. Get a 3.4 or N* throttle body on that sucker and I'll wager you pick up some decent high rpm power.
Check the Mall for a steal on brand new N* throttle bodies. You won't find a better price.
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11:22 PM
Oct 18th, 2006
XzotikGT Member
Posts: 897 From: Spanaway, WA, USA Registered: Mar 2004
Thanks Guys. I just got back this morning and see I have alot to respond too.
The Headers I built are listed under the thread (homemade headers). Since it was a 96 head, the ports were oval so I had to make the cones to weld to the flange plates. Actually a exhaust shop made the cones, I just flatened them. The rest was cut peices from a truck header.
The wires were 8mm Accell wires. I just took the plug ends off the stock wire, pulled the rubber off of both ends of the plastic stem and used a reemer on a drill press. Once I reemed the stem larger (for the wire to slide thru) I sprayed carb spray into the upper cap and slid the wire thru. Then slid wire thru the stem and crimped the old terminal to the wire. After that just put the rubber seal on the end of the stem. The ends that are plugged into the coil pack are the oned designed for the spark plugs.
I am planning on installing a n* throttle body. I have one already. I'm just trying to find a good pipe to weld it to. It's just a "as you go process". I am ready to get it on the road legally.
I hate to say it but I proably wont be able to make it to the next meeting. My wife and I are expecting. She is in her third tri-mester so most of my time and money is going towards the baby. I hope to make it to the next one or so. Amber and Daniel were talking about coming down one day to my shop to piddle around on the cars, so if you like come on down with them. I'm actuall 11 miles past the Mc Donalds in Alvarado. I have a few toys here to play with, and yall are welcome to use.
I will definatly look into the dogbone. After I bent the link pin, I knew I may havedo something different. I didn't think about the aluminum breaking though. Any suggestions or pics would be appreciated.
Thanks, Bob
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08:50 AM
procarnut Member
Posts: 622 From: Blum, Texas USA Registered: Mar 2006
which if you look will require welding on a whole new tube across the runners - the one on there is too small.. mine uses a 3"ID pipe (76mm)
I never said he wouldnt have to change the pipe size, just that he would have to modify it again. Since he has alredy done it once it shouldnt be too hard to switch over.
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05:55 PM
Oct 19th, 2006
XzotikGT Member
Posts: 897 From: Spanaway, WA, USA Registered: Mar 2004
"Anyone can make a copy of something, it may look good but it ever is the real car. Make something from your imagination, something unique, something nobody has, anything is possible and, ideas can be a reality."
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05:54 PM
procarnut Member
Posts: 622 From: Blum, Texas USA Registered: Mar 2006
Brakes are stock. I want to upgrade to 13" corvette brakes but ran out of money. So I rebuilt the calipers, adjusted the parking brakes, used fresh fluid, turned rotors and surface hatched them and that's it. I would like to find the cut specs for caliper adaptors to install the c5 brakes.
Are you still willing to make a nother set of headers? My 96 LQ1 could use them, but I have a Muncie, do you think it would work with the crossover you have?
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06:19 PM
Oct 20th, 2006
procarnut Member
Posts: 622 From: Blum, Texas USA Registered: Mar 2006
I might be able too later but right now I have higher priorities I have to take care of. The crossover pipe was part of my right header. If I was to build sets for this engine I would probably stop at the collector. I could do a crossover with a flex between so as to add the flexability with other fieros. I'll post someting as soon as I can to build more.
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09:02 AM
procarnut Member
Posts: 622 From: Blum, Texas USA Registered: Mar 2006
Oh Thanks! for linking me to the brake mod. That is really going to help alot. As soon as I get some details worked out, I'll let you know about the headers.
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09:05 AM
Oct 31st, 2006
procarnut Member
Posts: 622 From: Blum, Texas USA Registered: Mar 2006
Well I'm still working on getting it prep'd. The Soda Blaster worked great on the Bumper Facias (TPO) but did very little removal on the sides panels except the front fenders. I tried a spot on the truck lid (SMC) and it ripped through the gel coat so I have to repair that. Most of the other stuff will probably be d/a sanded then prep'd. Have just everything I need to paint it but I'm checking into some new additive that help cohesion between layers. I had painted my truck bumper before and in a short time I had alot of rock chips all over it. The last time I painted it i called Dupont and thay said now to add 1oz of 12305S activator to the base coat and it make it melt into the sealer and clear coat.
Flames? Pink flames on your silver one? Yep I can do them but I wouldn't drive in any rough parts of town.
Bob
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01:15 PM
Tom Slick Member
Posts: 4342 From: Alvarado, TX Registered: May 2003