In the spirit of "My dash conversion" thread, I thought I would start a thread more appropriate to what's now going on. It's no longer just a dash conversion (located here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/043545.html ), but a total update of the interior, including the center console, headliner, dash, door panels, AV system, etc. Jscott convinced me that a cassete/cd changer audio system was not the way to go (Thanx Jon ), so I pulled it all out and picked up a Chinese knock-off DVD player (cds & MP3's too) and a 10.4" video screen. Still working on how the screen goes, but I roughed in all the stereo equipment so I can put the dash back in. The addition of the dash required tossing out the center console. My plan was to find one I liked and incorporate it into a totally new design. Also, one of my later ideas was to incorporate a subwoofer in the dash, but after putting the dash back in, I realized it just wasn't going to fit. So I've decided to go with a center console subwoofer.
So, here are a couple of pics to get this started. More will come as the thread builds towards completion.
The first thing I did was build an amp rack to mount the equipment. I did not want to sacrifice space in the cab for the amps, but I wanted the extra power and room to grow. Here is the top of the rack:
I had to situate the amps around the brake booster, AC stuff, and washer bottle. I also wanted everything servicable, so it had to be hinged. I plan on finishing it off with a glass cover over the amps, and fabric over the outside.
With the wiring in and the dash sub out, I went to work on the console sub. I started out by forming a piece of cardboard around the ECM, making sure it fit nice up against the firewall. I removed it and built a form on my table to keep everything square. Then I put a coat of resin over the cardboard, making it nice and stiff. I put it back in the cabin and taped up the console area to get it's shape. Wax paper and paiters tape kept everything from sticking to the console. I layed several layers of glass over the back and bottom, to form the base for the subwoofer. (Sorry, no pics of any of this). Then I built up the ring. I decided I didn't need thunderous bass and I didn't want something protruding out that would get in the way of my arm, so I went with an 8" sub. I haven't picked one yet, but I'm leaning towards Kicker, or Rockford Fosgate. I built the ring around these. My buddy Matt came down for a few hours, so I put him on making the rings. He did a decent job considering the equipment he had to work with. He made two rings, meant to be stacked on each other. The bottom ring is where the sub is mounted, the top ring gives the sub a flush-mount look. Here are the pics so far:
Today I hope to get the fleese and resin on to give it some shape.
More later,
Bob
edits for speelin'
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 03-19-2006).]
That might actually make it hotter then the amps would do... But I still agree on something cooling them off.. one computer fan facing one way, forcing hot air out, and another one sucking it in should work, as long as you had a hood scoop .
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12:16 PM
Fino Member
Posts: 813 From: St. Johns, MI. USA Registered: Jan 2002
I think you are doing great work and it looks nice. But I also have to agree with the amps AND battery you need to cool it. Can you cut two holes in the front and install a fan on one to move air, then protect the two holes from water intrusion. Not going to be easy.
Ed
------------------ Fino www.feroce.us Member National Kit Car Club
Hopefully no one has a hood scoop that vents into the forward trunk. That area is supposed to be sealed from the elements. Which means it will get hot up there. With the amps mounted upside down natural convection is going to be working against you. You might conider changing to an aluminum plate and mount the amps to that as a heat sink.
I like your center console. I am just startng to work with fiberglass and my next one is going to be a lot better than the one I have now. If I ever figure out how to do molds I would be all set to make more. I'm very interested to see your large screen. I'm wanting to do a carputer one of these days but mounting a large touch screen in our cars is the challenge.
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02:12 PM
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
OK, I hadn't considered the heat in front. I guess I'll have to come up with something slick. Or, maybe a hole somewhere..Hmm, I'll have to think on that.
Last update for the week:
I put the fabric on. It's a 100% polyester t-shirt type material. $2.00 a yard at Walmart. I think I looked like a fool feeling up all the material there, trying to find the stretchiest stuff they had. Oh well, I've got enough to do a bunch of stuff. The material is attached to the backing using staples (temporarily, I pulled them afterward), and hot glue.
Here's what it looks like attached to the framework:
And in the car for fitting:
Once satisfied with the fit, I coated it with a layer of resin:
Afterwards, it gets several layers of fiberglass. The glass I picked up on Ebay. It's 18oz weave. It seems to flow with the curves pretty well. And for 16lbs of glass for $16, you can't beat that.
Update time: The weather has been warm then cold, so work is sporadic, but I have the box built up with glass and the mounting flanges installed. The following picture shows the creation of the flanges. I taped off the areas on the firewall where the flanges would be, using painters tape and wax paper. I put a coat of carnuba wax on the tape to help seperation. I installed the box back in the car, making sure it was at the proper mounting location. I then built up a flange using 2oz mat and 18oz cloth, overlapping the box and the flange to ensure it was nice and strong.
This picture shows the flange cut to shape. The back of the flange is an exact mirror copy of the firewall. (Pss..that's my first shot at the new door panel in the background)
The last two pics show the box in early sanding steps. I've added some kitty hair to strengthen the box and give it a better shape, and I've used a guidecoat of primer to see where I'm at with the sanding. I hate sanding....Lots more of that to come.
Bob
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 04-09-2006).]
very nice ! Looks great !!! I have always wondered how the custom installers did that kind of work.. I never really asked.. but the pics tell all
------------------ 84 Fiero Turbo Vortec 4300 Phantom GT L35 block, Syclone Intake and ECM with Moates adapter 50lb injectors, 3 bar map sens, T04B H3 Turbo
87 GT just waiting for the conversion
www.cardomain.com/id/vortecfiero Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure. Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"
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10:02 AM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
This picture shows the flange cut to shape. The back of the flange is an exact mirror copy of the firewall. (Pss..that's my first shot at the new door panel in the background)
Just a quick question, and other peopel with subboxes, what is the interior volume of the sub box? Can anyone tell me what the suggested volume is for an 8in sub? I tried looking online and actually wasnt very successful. Im just curious.
After seeing everyone doing all this work since its getting nice, im getting that itch to do something....
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02:01 AM
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
Sorry guys, the door panel is an up & coming project. I don't have much info on it, other than I started by following what Roy did on his Firebird panels. The gist of the door panel is that I'm using firebird components and form fitting it to the dash. The raised portions will be custom made, their will be an integrated 5.25" door speaker, and a custom center section. Not much else to tell, yet.
The recommended volume for my Kicker CVR is .4 to 1.8 cuft for a sealed enclosure and .8 to 1.2 cuft for a ported enclosure. I'm estimating that I'm just short of .4 cuft so I will be using polyester batting to fill the box to make it seem larger to the sub.
Bob
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07:38 AM
PFF
System Bot
UCFieroCharger Member
Posts: 976 From: Cincinnati, OH Registered: Nov 2005
Arm clearance will be good for me. With my hand resting on shifter, my arm doesn't touch the box. The speaker is recessed, so that won't be an issue, either. Thanx everyone for popping in and the kind words. I'm just hoping to add to the knowledge base and show that it's not that difficult if you work at it a little.
Bob
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07:36 AM
cliffw Member
Posts: 36856 From: Bandera, Texas, USA Registered: Jun 2003
cliffw: I will be eliminating the seat speakers. I plan on getting new seats sometime in the future. I'm thinking of building some boxes up in the corners to house some 5.25s or 6.5s since my '84 does not have the provision for B-pillar speakers. Not sure how that'll work out, yet.
Bob
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12:09 PM
Fie Ro Member
Posts: 3735 From: Soest, The Netherlands Registered: Sep 2001
Nice work! Love to see the little tricks like the stretched polyester to make these shapes -relatively- easy. I still spend way too much time on filling and sanding...your work looks good.
), so I pulled it all out and picked up a Chinese knock-off DVD player (cds & MP3's too) and a 10.4" video screen. Still working on how the screen goes, but I roughed in all the stereo equipment so I can put the dash back in.
.
Or, maybe a hole somewhere..Hmm, I'll have to think on that.
