My long overdue plug change on my 87GT has set me back a little. My plugs are rusted to the point that the socket is useless. Of course these are the front plugs. So here is my question. What can I use or buy that will work on the rusted plugs? Naturally I will be soaking them in PB Blaster for a few days but in the meantime I need to find a way of removing them. I thought of the usual smaller socket size and beating it on for a snug fit but only as a last resort.
HELP----HELP PLEASE
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12:27 AM
PFF
System Bot
Formula88 Member
Posts: 53788 From: Raleigh NC Registered: Jan 2001
Take the decklid off to get back there better. Use compressed air and a pick to clean around the spark plugs. On my Fiero, trash will collect in the spark plug hole, so you can't get the socket down on the plug far enough for it to grip. If you can clean that out, the regular socket should work.
First plug swap I did when I got my Formula, I ended up breaking 2 of the 3 forward plugs, so be careful.
One other thing I'll do to get easier access sometimes is unhook the dogbone, remove the 3 bolts on the top of each strut, remove the 2 rear cradle bolts and pivot the cradle down a few inches. Once you can get in there comfortably, the job it so much easier.
My problem is rounded off plugs, not access or tightness.
when I got my 87 GT, the rear plugs were so badly rusted (origonal 87 plugs, in a 80,000 mile Fiero) they seperated in two peices upon coming out. Really its hard to get rusted in ones out, if they are rounded, they are badly rusted. I dont know of any tools to get at them though, sorry. I need to ask my mechanic how he got the plugs out of mine without damaging the threads!
Edit: if they are bad enough that you cannot hammer on an impact socket of one size smaller (not reccomended practice, but if its rounded off badly it could provide a good bite, carful though, might ruin a good socket!) or any means else, take the head off and work it from the back maybe! I am just trying to post suggestions, sometimes it gets to the point of, ahh just pull the engine apart :P
[This message has been edited by Racing_Master (edited 02-06-2008).]
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04:12 AM
1MohrFiero Member
Posts: 4363 From: Paducah, Ky Registered: Apr 2003
I have had a couple on new Fieros I bought that separated like mentione above and the ceramic center cam completely out. Although this is frightening it actually made removing them simple. You can then get a large Ez- out in the metal shell and screw them right out. Good luck.
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06:54 AM
hyperv6 Member
Posts: 6091 From: Clinton, OH, USA Registered: Mar 2003
you can get the aforementioned sockets at harbor freight if there is one nearby. obviously choose the one that that is closest to the size of the plugs. If its not already happened, you need to break the ceramic and possibly cut the post to put the shorter socket on. Its helpful if you tap them on lightly with a hammer first.
-JOE
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09:15 AM
hyperv6 Member
Posts: 6091 From: Clinton, OH, USA Registered: Mar 2003
if, possible to get some kinda vice grip, or similar tool on them. work back and forth and tap with hammer, work back and forth. im sure if there is a special tool(at least not to my knowledge). perhaps a small propane torch and a hammered on socket(don't if not neccasarry) but the most useful, at least that i found is, pb blaster tap,soak sit tap soak sit tap, then try ur method. idk what else that could be done. but most of all take your time and if frustrated, just walk away and come back when ur cool headed. Sometimes its the trick that get's the job done.
all i know, or rather don't
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06:14 PM
Fiero Thomas Member
Posts: 4669 From: Round Lake Beach, IL Registered: Jul 2005
The PB blaster is soaking as I type this and will be daily until this Saturday when I will try some of the above suggestions. I have sockets both standard and metric plus some sockets for removing stripped bolts / nuts. I will reply as to the results. If over the weekend you hear a loud yell, well that will be me.
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12:47 AM
hyperv6 Member
Posts: 6091 From: Clinton, OH, USA Registered: Mar 2003
I thought that Sears had some type of socket that was a real gripper. It took me nearly three weeks to get my plugs out of my 88 after 8 years and 50,000 miles. Lots of penetration oil, but my plugs were not rounded (how can you tell?). Once the areas around the plugs were cleaned up, I still could get a socket on the plugs, but couldn't move them for quite a while. Eventually I did get them to budge and out. I didn't want to put a lot of pressure on them twisting them out in order not to snap the plug in half.
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11:59 AM
Feb 9th, 2008
joesfiero Member
Posts: 2181 From: North Port,FL,USA Registered: Jan 2008
Do not worry about the socket,if there is enough metal you can file down to size from top,yes i know this is a pain to do you want to use any method to prevent striped plugs or remove head unless really needed..Using P B blaster ,do not worry about the blaster falling into cylinder, not good but no real damage will result,,,have a pool of blaster around the plug for at least 24 hours once the plug is loose if it is freely turning remove excess blaster.no air compressor? blow it out with mouth air pressure thru a hose ,you blow hards out there this is easy for you(you know who you are)if the plug turns hard leave pool of blaster in hole once it is free enough for blaster to slowly flow to bottom of threads ..patience!! wait at least a few hours,of course if blaster disapears down threads you can operate sooner.. patience is the key ,,never worry about the ceramic on an old plug do not worry about the socket, I have regreted my impatience recently .. shoot a pool of blaster into the hole around the plug..do not economize here,, once the ceramic is broken often a quality 1/2 inch drive snap on socket or similar side grip socket will work before you resort to the lug nut grippers or gripper types this is serious work so removal of hood is demanded
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 02-09-2008).]
After a frustrating week and weekend and using my full vocabulary of nasty words, the plugs are out.
The broken off flush plug was removed with the square shaped extractor. I had a welder friend of mine weld a socket onto the end of the extractor so I could use a ratchet for some torque.
The plug that was still somewhat intact but rusted was a little harder. I started to use an extractor that was mainly designed for bolts and nuts. I had to grind down the six sided portion of the tool to fit in the space around the plug. I also reamed out the inside of the extractor so the end of the plug could fit thru the tool. I than had my welder friend weld the tool to a socket again for some torque. This ended up breaking the plug flush with the head just like the other plug.
Back to the square sided extractor and used it to remove the plug.
[This message has been edited by LT188GT (edited 02-15-2008).]
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01:04 PM
PFF
System Bot
1MohrFiero Member
Posts: 4363 From: Paducah, Ky Registered: Apr 2003
After a frustrating week and weekend and using my full vocabulary of nasty words, the plugs are out.
The broken off flush plug was removed with the square shaped extractor. I had a welder friend of mine weld a socket onto the end of the extractor so I could use a ratchet for some torque.
The plug that was still somewhat intact but rusted was a little harder. I started to use an extractor that was mainly designed for bolts and nuts. I had to grind down the six sided portion of the tool to fit in the space around the plug. I also reamed out the inside of the extractor so the end of the plug could fit thru the tool. I than had my welder friend weld the tool to a socket again for some torque. This ended up breaking the plug flush with the head just like the other plug.
Back to the square sided extractor and used it to remove the plug.
Man! Some guys will go to great lengths to avoid removing the heads on a Fiero...
Glad you got them out. Great show of determination.
After a frustrating week and weekend and using my full vocabulary of nasty words, the plugs are out.
The broken off flush plug was removed with the square shaped extractor. I had a welder friend of mine weld a socket onto the end of the extractor so I could use a ratchet for some torque.
The plug that was still somewhat intact but rusted was a little harder. I started to use an extractor that was mainly designed for bolts and nuts. I had to grind down the six sided portion of the tool to fit in the space around the plug. I also reamed out the inside of the extractor so the end of the plug could fit thru the tool. I than had my welder friend weld the tool to a socket again for some torque. This ended up breaking the plug flush with the head just like the other plug.
Back to the square sided extractor and used it to remove the plug.
i tried removing my plugs with my head still in the car (84 which hasnt run in years).............my #4 plug i attemped first and broke off EXACTLY like the one in your picture.......where do you get that square sided tool with the socket attachment on it?....i dont have anything remotly close here that will turn this plug out and allow socket to fit......ive been soaking these in PB blaster for a week now..
