Just a test here. If anyone is interested to see more photos of my progress, just pm me. I don't want to just start throwing pics up that nobody wants to see. I decided to go ahead and make my own body kit. I am starting with just some Construction Grade Foam and Balsa Wood for the form. Surprisingly the foam seems to be resilient to everything I have thrown at it (ie..crazy glue, resin, body filler etc...) So I am hoping when I go to actually start glassing my mold, it will hold up and I will be able to get more than 1 usable panel.











This is where I am at now. After spending hours designing this side scoop, I realized it was to low for the actuall drivers side intake, so I am trying to figure out how to keep it in place and make it functional on the other side. Any suggestions or comments?

I would like to see more, I find threads like this very interesting... DIY with photos are a big +

I'll be watching too(since I'll be doing this too someday)

quote Originally posted by Back On Holiday: I would like to see more, I find threads like this very interesting... DIY with photos are a big +

x2

Lamborghini style,...I like !



I often wondered how that would look on a fiero. Looks great IMO.

Good luck and keep those pics coming.


P.S. Might take a bit of tweeking, but couldn't you build a channel into the underside of the sidepanel that flows down to the lower intake that could make it functional and still maintain the asthetics ?

[This message has been edited by exoticse (edited 09-21-2008).]

Interested and subscribed.

post as much as you can... very interested

Looks good

keep us updated

im gonna check this thread 2 times a day minamum post as many pics as you can im drooling already.

Cool ! I made my Fi355 interior models out of cardboard, plastic, hot glue & bondo...whatever materials you have available will work.

Got a little more done yesterday. Only 6 hours worth and it doesn't feel like it. Here are some updated photos on and off the car as I sand and build and sand and build......

I decided to change the shape on how the bottom scoop blends into the actual wide body portion. The previous pics show the wood at the opposite angle. I am working off a similar picture of the lambo. Changed some things around to accommodate for the lines on the fiero, but we will see how crazy it will get.



A few more off the car. So much easier to sand and shape. Also, I needed the car for a little while this morning. I am starting on the lower door and ground effect today. Will keep up the pics.

DITO! keep the pix as many as you can posibaly handle please. Love the work you have done.

looking good 8) whats that putty you are useing ontop of the foam and balsa?

Thanks for the inspiration. The putty is just your run of the mill Bondo (Body Filler). I am trying to get it as good and smooth as I can at this point, so when I do finally start laying glass, I have an almost perfect surface. For the final product, I only want to use body filler to feather any edges and make it perfectly uniform. As we all know, body filler will only degrade over time and crack under constant driving. At the point it is at, I can lay all the bondo I want to get whatever shape I desire, because it is only the form. And what is great with the foam and balsa is it is so light (and fragile) but when the body filler is applied it kinda beefs it up a bit.

Here are some more pics: Any suggestions or ideas? Now is the time.....Anyone wanna start the driver side?????






Here is a project I started last year but havent finished yet. After figuring the cost it was less expensive to just go and buy the darn things:

quote Originally posted by Mailmule: Thanks for the inspiration. The putty is just your run of the mill Bondo (Body Filler). I am trying to get it as good and smooth as I can at this point, so when I do finally start laying glass, I have an almost perfect surface. For the final product, I only want to use body filler to feather any edges and make it perfectly uniform. As we all know, body filler will only degrade over time and crack under constant driving. At the point it is at, I can lay all the bondo I want to get whatever shape I desire, because it is only the form. And what is great with the foam and balsa is it is so light (and fragile) but when the body filler is applied it kinda beefs it up a bit. Here are some more pics: Any suggestions or ideas? Now is the time.....Anyone wanna start the driver side?????

Are you going to do the same to the door? Will post pic when PIP is working again

[This message has been edited by 85SEnochie (edited 09-23-2008).]

The thing I always worry about is I know I could probably pull off one side, but how is the other side emulated perfectly? I see custom kits and think "how the heck did they do it to both sides..".

Nice projects I put this on my favs.

Here it is Just a thought.

I agree with the people above, I want to see as many pictures as you have! I would like to learn how to do this kind of stuff. I've never touched fiberglass. The thing that has made me hesitant to try this is getting the two sides identical. You can buy a hot knife and hot wire cutter to shape the foam, if that's not what you are doing already. I have some small hot knives that I used when I used to make war game miniature scenery. But I know they make large ones even some set up kind of like a table saw. I've even seen tutorials how to make your own custom hot wire cutter for large objects. Anyway, good luck with your build. We are all looking forward to seeing this progress.

edit: to fix typos

[This message has been edited by matchmade (edited 09-23-2008).]

i've been experimenting in fiberglass and have been wondering this... how do you fill in the mini air pockets and crap that are exposed when you sand it down? I bought this bondo putty stuff (general purpose) but im hesitant to use it... should I?

Thanks again for your responses.
85SEnochie:::: I am doing a door piece, but not the exact shape as the ground effect. I wante to get the ground effect 90% before moving up to the door.

Everything changes as I pogress. As you can see below, I wanted the flow from the scoop to the ground effect more natural rather than just square.



InTheLead,matchmade::: It will definitely be a challenge, but as I make a shape or an angle, I am cutting out a template out of cardboard and also tracing the outline of the shape on a piece of cardboard pictured below: This will at least get me the same angles and shape, but as far as being identicle (I doubt it) But who can see both sides at the same time anyway: The foam is for basic shape and then I am using Bondo to tweak it the way I want.


Back On Holiday:::: Bondo is your friend. Lukily I had the chance to take autobody repair in school and had a great teacher. For this stage of my project, I am using the cheap stuff ($15 a gallon) But for the smoothing of the glass I will be using a much higher grade Bondo and using it sparingly because that will be the most crucial part. It also depends on the mold. For this, I am putting the glass on top of my mold, which is why I am making it a little short were it molds to the body. For that reason, I will have to use Bondo to make everything perfectly smooth and uniform after the glass is layed. If I had all the right equipment, I would be making a mold that my glass goes inside (almost like baking a cake) and would need much less bondo. Who knows. Maybe after making my first panel and it is to short, I may use the inside of that glass panel to make another (making the out-side smooth as a baby's but. It is all trial and error. I would love to buy Archies Kit, but $2500 is a bit much for me. So, If I were you, I would experiment with a very small object and make a glass mold from it and the the bondo, just to get the feel for it. Just remember that you must rough up the surface you are appling the bondo to. I use a 36 grit sandpaper to to this. After you lay the bondo and just before it dries (about 3 minutes or so) Use the cheese grater to shape it and knock down any high spots. You can see a picture of it above laying on top of the taillight. After it dries. sart with the 36-grit and smoothe all edges and then a sanding block for the rest. Then move to an 80 grit. You will see on the Bondo when sanding what spots are low because the sanding block isn't hitting them. Repeat steps until you have your desired shape. 36,80,180 then primer. After priming, sand with 220 and prime again(repeating a few times) If any additional scratches are present, you can use a different kind of putty on top of the primer, (just for small scratches) sand and prime again. When ready for paint sand with 400-800 wet or dry, wipe, tack and paint.....

Here are some more pics::

i got an idea get rid of the door part or cut its length in half and smoth the rear fender to the door it will give the ass more pop and will look more like hips. and add a lip/bulge around the tire area like the front fender.
also for your tail lights find a close up of a f355 tail lights and you will see the hole thing is a vent filled with thousands of tinny holes. find a way to do that and it would be wasome.
or just keep doing what your doing cause it looks awsome anyway.

[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 09-25-2008).]

I sure wouldn't want to tackle that job! Just a thought...How are you going to attach the new body panels to the car? And, if you happen to have an accident, how will you remove them? If you cover up the molding, you can't get to the mounting points. I don't know how Archie makes it work on his wide body cars. If you haven't thought about this, you might ring him up and ask him.

Im not sure what you mean about covering the moldings and mounting points? If in an accident, the last thing I would be worried about is moldings or the body kit for that matter. The new Fiberglass body kit will be molded on with dynoglass and bondo, just like all the other kits out there. I don't consider this a project. I am enjoying what I am doing and if it doesn't turn out good, Oh well: I will do better next time. If you could explain what you are refering to please by all means, I am open to suggestions.

Here are some more pics:

quote Originally posted by Mailmule: Back On Holiday:::: Bondo is your friend. Lukily I had the chance to take autobody repair in school and had a great teacher. For this stage of my project, I am using the cheap stuff ($15 a gallon) But for the smoothing of the glass I will be using a much higher grade Bondo and using it sparingly because that will be the most crucial part. It also depends on the mold. For this, I am putting the glass on top of my mold, which is why I am making it a little short were it molds to the body. For that reason, I will have to use Bondo to make everything perfectly smooth and uniform after the glass is layed. If I had all the right equipment, I would be making a mold that my glass goes inside (almost like baking a cake) and would need much less bondo. Who knows. Maybe after making my first panel and it is to short, I may use the inside of that glass panel to make another (making the out-side smooth as a baby's but. It is all trial and error. I would love to buy Archies Kit, but $2500 is a bit much for me. So, If I were you, I would experiment with a very small object and make a glass mold from it and the the bondo, just to get the feel for it. Just remember that you must rough up the surface you are appling the bondo to. I use a 36 grit sandpaper to to this. After you lay the bondo and just before it dries (about 3 minutes or so) Use the cheese grater to shape it and knock down any high spots. You can see a picture of it above laying on top of the taillight. After it dries. sart with the 36-grit and smoothe all edges and then a sanding block for the rest. Then move to an 80 grit. You will see on the Bondo when sanding what spots are low because the sanding block isn't hitting them. Repeat steps until you have your desired shape. 36,80,180 then primer. After priming, sand with 220 and prime again(repeating a few times) If any additional scratches are present, you can use a different kind of putty on top of the primer, (just for small scratches) sand and prime again. When ready for paint sand with 400-800 wet or dry, wipe, tack and paint.....

Thank you, i've been using 36 grit to cut down excess material, i've also been doing things the hard way by filling in using fiberglass and epoxy, going to try the bondo today

so are you going to be selling these? keep the pics comming!

quote Originally posted by Mailmule: Im not sure what you mean about covering the moldings and mounting points? If in an accident, the last thing I would be worried about is moldings or the body kit for that matter. The new Fiberglass body kit will be molded on with dynoglass and bondo, just like all the other kits out there. I don't consider this a project. I am enjoying what I am doing and if it doesn't turn out good, Oh well: I will do better next time. If you could explain what you are refering to please by all means, I am open to suggestions.

If you remove the side mouldings, you'll see attachment points (screws) for some of the body panels. If you bond something over them (or fill them in for a smooth look as some have) you won't have any way to remove the body panels if you need to replace a damaged part. I don't know how the kits are attached to the body.

FWIW, yours is looking good.

Once again, thanks for the feedback....

I am a long way off from selling anything at the momment. I am finding out that some things need fixing before I can attach the actuall panels when glassed. I did figure out however that all alng the rear wheel well (holding the inner well) may be a great source of attaching the panel at that point. So far every thing else will have to be molded in with glass and bondo. Also, my pasenger front fender seems to be out of alignment. The door grabs it when opening, so I will have to fix that before I continue with that part of the form. I will also probably need new door hinges on the drivers side. While I was getting tires put on last year, I had the door open and some idiot backed up into the open door (pushing the whole door up in the rear) I thought I could just adjust it, but I think the hinges got bent. I also have to start looking at what kind of wheels I might want. The stock are just to narrow and look stupid with the wider body. This is an area I really have no clue. Any help on this would be great. I dont have alot of cash, so keep the suggestions cheap. I can always upgrade to something nicer at a later date. And my last decision is with the rear wing. I like the style it has, but the clearence just isn't there anymore with the wider rear. Not sure if I should just raise it up or actually extend it. I don't want to go cutting up my only 1, so I may try finding 1 at a junk yard or something to experiment on. Here are some more pics::::::::::::

I don't think I need to remove the moldings to do this, but I am afraid to just leave them. I may remove the moldings but leave the access untouched.. (thanks for the heads up)

Just a few more pics:::

[This message has been edited by Mailmule (edited 09-28-2008).]

Nice progress I like watching

i like the bumper vent im still trying to figure out what your doing with the door though keep em comming

A few updated pics: Moving slow but steady

I decided to start a little glas test to see how things are looking. I won't really know until tomorrow but I think it is working out well. I do however think I am getting a little to detailed on the mold itself. Any coments????






I went ahead and removed the wing and re-positioned it all the way back on the lid. I made 1" blocks to raise it up but I didn't like the way it looked, so I left it at normal height. As you can see by the pics, I moved it over by about 4 inches for the pic to get the correct overhang on the new wider body. Now all I have to do is Split the wing in half and extend it. Has anyone done this? The wing is Hallow inside right? I hate to do it to my only wing, but no guts no glory!!!!

[This message has been edited by Mailmule (edited 10-02-2008).]

Looking nice!

quote Originally posted by Mailmule:

Are you thinking about thickening up the area between the wheel and the airdam it looks maybe a little thin and not squar around the weel well?
Love the Idea and amagenation! The wing will look great if it can be done the way you are talking about good luck.

[This message has been edited by 85SEnochie (edited 10-02-2008).]

I think you are right. I figured that for this stage of the project it will be ok. I need to remember that I will be laying glass "on top" of this mold and will add some additional thickness, so I may wait until I get to that stage and modify as I need it. Also, I am not sue what rims/tires I will be using yet and hopefully I can come up with something that will fill out the well more.

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it.

Scott

Where the hell is Lula,Ga. ?
by the way nice progress on the car. is this going to be a 1 off body or are you going to make molds and sell them?
I live in Woodstock,Ga. and I am also doing a 1 off concept car with an 88GT.
fiberglass is fun, itchy but fun.

The Wing PLAN???

The plan is as follows...
Make a fiberglass spacer.........


Both top and bottom are made about 5 inches wide.....




Now I have an exact shape of the center of the wing.
Next step is to cut the wing in half, Inlay the spacer inside the cut, (Foam Fill) and then glass it back together.
This will extend the wing evenly on both sides to accomodate for the wider body. I will also be moving it all the way back on the deck, but not raisinf it at all.
Now if I only had the guts to cut it in half????



Another change to the ground effect.........

[This message has been edited by Mailmule (edited 10-03-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Monkeyman: If you remove the side mouldings, you'll see attachment points (screws) for some of the body panels. If you bond something over them (or fill them in for a smooth look as some have) you won't have any way to remove the body panels if you need to replace a damaged part. I don't know how the kits are attached to the body.

...is this really revelant? In all intents, if the panel if broken, what does it matter at this point to 'break' it some more to get at the mounting points underneath. For those people that have 'smoothed' the car, if it got hit and the panel had to be replaced - you would have to 'smooth' it again anyways, so removing the filler to uncover the mount points shouldn't be an issue.

Mailmule - you have way more patience than I have, nice to see some different ideal out there.

quote Originally posted by Mailmule: The wing is Hallow inside right? I hate to do it to my only wing, but no guts no glory!!!!

Yes, the wing is hollow. But just a heads-up, the plastic that the wing is made of is not a consistent thickness. That may complicate things a bit.

BTW, this project is pretty interesting, from an engineering standpoint.