I decided to take a small break from my projects and just waste some time tonight. I took my original GT logo and removed the factory plasti-cote. I changed the pegasus design a little and added some all American colors.
I made some multi colored decals, sprayed the plate black and applied the decals. The black on the plate did not need to be perfectly smooth because of the next step. Normally, I would paint these on but tonight I just said the hell with it.
I used Envirotex and filled the emblem with the resin. This is the same resin that they use to coat bar tables.
Here is the emblem right after the pour. After mixing, the resin has thousands of bubbles.
After about 20 minutes.
The micro bubbles will disappear after another hour. The color scheme is not for everyone but who can argue with red,white,and blue as well as the Pontiac logo
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12:01 AM
PFF
System Bot
katatak Member
Posts: 7136 From: Omaha, NE USA Registered: Apr 2008
So... How durable you think that'll be? How will it fair? AND HOW MUCH TO MAKE FOR OTHERS!
The resin dries to a rock hard finish. One thing that I did not mention is that it is compressed flat in my vise right now so I could pour the resin and have it contained in the emblem. I have to wait until it starts to gel and then I can release the pressure which will allow the emblem to spring back to its original curved shape. If I let the resin fully cure, it will pop out of the emblem when I release the vise.
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01:07 AM
DeLorean00 Member
Posts: 4251 From: Sacramento, CA / Reno, NV Registered: Aug 2005
Ignoring the previously mentioned queries about the resin used, I'll ask this: just how colorfast is the new logo? Will the designs placed below the resin fade excessively when exposed to UV light?
In a nutshell, is it a permanent solution to use the resin-over-decal method as you have done here?
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04:20 AM
PFF
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R Runner Member
Posts: 3694 From: Scottsville, KY Registered: Feb 2003
Originally posted by IMSA GT: If you breathe on the resin, your breath actually accelerates the bubbles popping.
WOW! What kind of dragon breath do you have?!?!? lol j/k
That is so neat! what brought this thought on? I tried the same thing, sorta, I laid a decal in a alum. cup and added fiberglass resin. well it did work , but It was a yellow-ish color. I should have used a clearer resin (more expensive). it was justa small test i did. I was going to replace the (aftermarket) horn button with it. I like your resin better! WAAAAYYY better. where is that stuff sold?
[This message has been edited by revin (edited 04-25-2010).]
Originally posted by IMSA GT: After about 20 minutes.
When set down flat (as in your picture I copied right above), it looks like the height of the badge insert you made is (like the original badge insert from the factory which you removed) higher than the black plastic piece which surrounds it. If that is not just an optical illusion I'm seeing, how did you get the resin to do that? I would have thought the resin for the badge you made would get no higher than the edges of the plastic surround without spilling over them.
I know you said:
quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT: One thing that I did not mention is that it is compressed flat in my vise right now so I could pour the resin and have it contained in the emblem.
Even after you kept the black plastic surround flat, is the height of the badge insert you made greater than its black plastic surround simply because the resin has a fairly high viscosity which keeps it from spilling over the edges?
By the way, thanks for your photos and write-up of your hood emblem project!
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09:55 AM
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10484 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
To answer everyone: Rickady88GT - I know resin does not do well on its own in the sun but I have no idea what this manufacturer puts in its formula. The resin is used to laminate objects onto table tops....much like some country themed restaraunts where there are quarters and dimes "in" the table top. I have seen many of these tables outside with no negative effects.
skuzzbomer - The decals are 7 year rated sign vinyl. They are designed to be exposed to the elements all year round so I would think that they are protected under the resin.
revin - This start out with a yellowish tint but the more you mix, the clearer it becomes....go figure how that works. You can buy this at any craft store.
project34 - You are correct about the edges. The resin is thick enough so that it forms its own "wall" and sits higher than the actual emblem. It is almost exact to stock.
I used to make burl clocks using a similar resin. If you carefully wave a torch across the top after pouring the resin, all the bubbles will pop. Obviously, you don't want to overheat it. Nice emblem, by the way.
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12:11 PM
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10484 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
I used to make burl clocks using a similar resin. If you carefully wave a torch across the top after pouring the resin, all the bubbles will pop. Obviously, you don't want to overheat it. Nice emblem, by the way.
That is exactly what I could NOT remember. It has been a while since I used this product. Thanks for refreshing my memory. I will try that next time.
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12:15 PM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
BTW, if you clear-coat the epoxy, that should help protect it from UV radiation. I think table-top epoxy is "UV resistant" (I don't think it has any actual UV protectants in it, though). But a little extra protection can't hurt.
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02:05 PM
aeffertz Member
Posts: 798 From: Ladysmith, WI Registered: Feb 2009
BTW, if you clear-coat the epoxy, that should help protect it from UV radiation. I think table-top epoxy is "UV resistant" (I don't think it has any actual UV protectants in it, though). But a little extra protection can't hurt.
I think you are correct about the UV resistance of the resin.
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02:19 PM
PFF
System Bot
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10484 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
ne questions still remains. will you make more? i would love one. ill even send in my two cores.
Every time I say "yes" to a project, all hell breaks loose and I am busy for months...like my outlined windshield decals PM me and let me know what you have in mind.
Originally posted by project34 Even after you kept the black plastic surround flat, is the height of the badge insert you made greater than its black plastic surround simply because the resin has a fairly high viscosity which keeps it from spilling over the edges?
quote
Originally posted by IMSA GT: project34 - You are correct about the edges. The resin is thick enough so that it forms its own "wall" and sits higher than the actual emblem. It is almost exact to stock.
That would be called surface tension, water will do the same thing... but water obviously won't harden